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Dmitry Ivanov

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Just wanted to share my experience since I had this exact same question a few months ago! In my case, "Medical EE - SR" stood for "Medical Employee - Standard Rate" which was my contribution to the company health insurance plan. What really helped me was requesting a detailed breakdown of all deductions from payroll. Most companies are required to provide this if you ask, even if it takes them a while to respond. They sent me a document that explained every single code on my pay stub, which was super helpful for understanding not just the medical deduction but also things like life insurance, disability, and other benefits I didn't even know I had. The $87.50 biweekly amount sounds about right for employee-only standard tier coverage. One thing I'd suggest is making sure you're actually using the benefits you're paying for - I discovered I was paying for dental coverage that I never used because I already had dental through my spouse's plan. Saved me about $30 per paycheck once I dropped the duplicate coverage during open enrollment. If your HR is slow to respond via email, try calling them directly or stopping by in person if possible. Sometimes a quick 5-minute conversation can clear up what might take weeks of back-and-forth emails to resolve.

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This is really great advice about requesting a detailed breakdown from payroll! I never thought about asking for that - I just assumed the cryptic codes on my pay stub were something I had to figure out on my own. Your point about duplicate coverage is especially helpful. I should probably do an audit of all my benefits to make sure I'm not paying for things I don't need or already have covered elsewhere. The dental example you mentioned makes me wonder if I might have similar overlaps. I think I'll try calling HR directly like you suggested. Sometimes it's just easier to have a real conversation rather than trying to explain everything in an email and waiting days for a response. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's reassuring to know I'm not the only one who was confused by these deduction codes!

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I had this exact same confusion when I first started working! "Medical EE - SR" typically means "Medical Employee - Standard Rate" and represents your portion of the health insurance premium that gets deducted from your paycheck. The "EE" definitely stands for "Employee" to distinguish it from employer contributions. One thing that really helped me understand all my deductions was downloading my pay stub and looking at it alongside my benefits enrollment materials. Most companies provide a benefits guide during onboarding that breaks down all the different plan options and their costs. If you can't find yours, definitely ask HR for a copy - it should show exactly what "SR" means at your specific company (could be Standard Rate, Senior Rate, or even Single Rate depending on your employer). The $87.50 biweekly amount seems very reasonable for employee-only health coverage. That works out to about $2,275 annually, which is actually on the lower end for decent health insurance these days. Just make sure you're enrolled in the plan that makes the most sense for your healthcare needs - sometimes people pick the middle-tier option without really comparing what they'd actually use versus the cost savings of a basic plan. If HR is being slow, try giving them a call directly rather than email. In my experience, a quick phone conversation often resolves these questions much faster than waiting for email responses!

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This is really helpful! I'm new to understanding payroll deductions and this whole thread has been incredibly informative. The $87.50 biweekly amount the original poster mentioned actually seems pretty good compared to what some of my friends are paying at their jobs. I'm curious though - when you mention comparing what you'd "actually use" versus cost savings of a basic plan, how do you predict your healthcare usage for the year? I'm young and generally healthy, but I worry about unexpected medical issues. Is there a good rule of thumb for deciding between basic and standard plans? Also, does anyone know if these pre-tax health insurance deductions affect things like Social Security or unemployment benefits calculations, since they reduce your taxable income?

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Emma Wilson

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This is such a common source of confusion, and I completely understand your concern! The good news is that your $750 cash deposit from your brother's loan repayment will NOT trigger any IRS reporting from your bank. The $600 reporting rule specifically applies to third-party payment settlement entities like PayPal, Venmo, and Cash App - not traditional banks. Banks operate under entirely different reporting requirements and don't categorize or report your deposits as "income" to the IRS unless they exceed $10,000 (and that's for anti-money laundering purposes, not tax reporting). Since this was a personal loan repayment, it's not taxable income anyway - you're simply getting your own money back. The IRS doesn't consider loan repayments as income to the lender. My advice would be to keep some simple documentation of the original loan (even just a text message exchange) in case you ever need to explain the transaction, though for a $750 personal deposit it's extremely unlikely to be questioned. The key distinction to remember is: payment apps have the $600 threshold for 1099-K reporting, while traditional banks have much higher thresholds for completely different regulatory purposes. You can deposit that cash with confidence knowing it won't be mistakenly reported as taxable income!

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Edison Estevez

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Thanks Emma, this is exactly the reassurance I needed! I've been reading so many horror stories online about people getting unexpected tax bills from deposits that I was starting to second-guess every transaction. Your breakdown of the difference between payment apps and traditional banks really clarifies things. I especially appreciate you mentioning that loan repayments aren't taxable income in the first place - I hadn't even thought about that aspect. It makes total sense though, since I'm just getting back money I originally lent out. The documentation tip is smart too. I actually do have the text messages where my brother asked for the loan and promised to pay me back, so I'm covered there. It's such a relief to know I can make this deposit without worrying about it being flagged as unreported income. Thanks for taking the time to explain this so clearly!

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Sofia Morales

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This is a really important distinction that trips up a lot of people! The $600 reporting rule only applies to third-party payment networks like PayPal, Venmo, and Cash App - your regular bank won't report that $750 cash deposit to the IRS. Banks have completely different reporting thresholds - they only file Currency Transaction Reports for cash deposits over $10,000, and that's for anti-money laundering purposes, not tax reporting. Your brother's loan repayment is just that - a repayment of money you originally lent out, so it's not taxable income anyway. I'd recommend keeping some record of the original loan (text messages, notes, etc.) just in case, but for a personal transaction like this, it's very unlikely the IRS would ever question it. The key thing to remember is that traditional banking and payment app transactions operate under totally different regulatory frameworks - don't let the payment app controversy make you worry about normal bank deposits!

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Drew Hathaway

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This whole thread has been so helpful! I'm new to this community and was actually dealing with a very similar situation. My cousin paid me back $650 for her share of our vacation rental through a cash deposit last week, and I was panicking thinking I'd have to report it as income. Reading everyone's explanations about the difference between traditional banks and payment platforms really cleared things up for me. It's reassuring to know that regular bank deposits from personal transactions like loan repayments don't fall under the $600 reporting threshold that applies to PayPal, Venmo, etc. I also kept our text messages about the original loan arrangement, so I feel much better about having that documentation if needed. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion - it's exactly the kind of clear, practical advice that newcomers like me really need!

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Ava Garcia

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I'm going through the EXACT same thing right now! Filed my 2024 return about 12 days ago and woke up to that "Action Required" message this morning. My heart literally dropped when I saw it because I was counting on my refund to catch up on some bills. Like so many others here, I also claimed EIC which seems to be the common thread for most of us getting this status. Reading through everyone's experiences has been such a huge relief though - I had no idea this was so normal for early filers! The fact that the message specifically says they'll mail us if they actually need something gives me hope that this is just their standard verification process. It's just so hard not to panic when you see those words "Action Required" especially when you haven't done anything wrong. I'm definitely guilty of the obsessive WMR checking too πŸ˜… Even though I know it's not going to change every few hours, I can't help myself! But hearing from people who went through this exact situation last year and had it resolve without any issues is keeping me somewhat sane. Fingers crossed we'll all be getting good news in the next few weeks! Thanks for posting this - it's amazing how much better it feels knowing we're not alone in this stressful waiting game! 🀞

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Aidan Hudson

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I'm literally in the same exact situation! Got that dreaded message yesterday morning and my stomach just dropped. Also claimed EIC and filed about 2 weeks ago. It's honestly so comforting to see how many of us are dealing with this right now - I was convinced I had somehow messed up my return! The obsessive WMR checking is so real though πŸ˜… I've probably refreshed it like 20 times today even though I know nothing will change. But reading everyone's experiences here has been like a therapy session for my tax anxiety! Sounds like we just gotta ride this out for a few more weeks. We got this! πŸ’ͺ

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Leila Haddad

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I'm literally going through this exact same situation right now! Got the "Action Required" message for my 2024 return about 5 days ago and have been stressed out ever since. Also claimed EIC like so many others here, which definitely seems to be triggering these reviews. Reading through all these responses has been such a lifesaver for my anxiety! I had no idea this was so common during early filing season. The fact that so many people are experiencing the same thing with EIC claims makes me feel way less like I did something wrong on my return. The obsessive WMR checking is SO real πŸ˜… I've been refreshing it multiple times a day even though I know logically it's not going to change that fast. But it's hard not to when you're depending on that refund! I keep reminding myself that the message says they'll mail us if they actually need information, and since I haven't gotten anything in the mail yet, that's probably a good sign. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - it's amazing how much better it feels knowing we're all in this stressful waiting game together! Hoping we all get good news soon 🀞

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This has been a really informative discussion! As someone who's been dealing with similar confusion about capital assets, I wanted to add one more point that might help others. When people talk about "moving money around between different types of investments and accounts" like the original poster mentioned, it's important to remember that transfers between certain types of accounts (like 401k to IRA rollovers, or moving between different brokerage accounts) might not trigger taxable events even though you're dealing with capital assets. However, if you're actually selling investments in a taxable account to buy different investments, that's when the capital gains/losses come into play. The cash you temporarily hold between the sale and purchase isn't the issue - it's the actual sale of the capital asset that creates the taxable event. Just thought this distinction might be helpful for tax planning purposes since it sounds like that's what Chris was originally trying to figure out!

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Connor Rupert

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This is such a great point about account transfers vs. actual sales! I'm new to tax planning and this distinction is exactly what I needed to understand. So if I'm reading this right, moving my IRA from one provider to another wouldn't create a taxable event, but if I sell my mutual funds in a regular brokerage account to buy individual stocks, that sale would trigger capital gains/losses even though I'm reinvesting the cash immediately? This makes the whole "cash as capital asset" question make more sense now - it's not about the cash itself but about what transactions you're doing with your investments. Thanks for clarifying this!

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Amina Diallo

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm a newcomer to this community and was really struggling with understanding capital assets for my own tax situation. The clarification that cash itself isn't a capital asset but the investments you buy with cash ARE capital assets really cleared things up for me. I've been overthinking this whole concept. What I found most valuable was learning about the "exclusion" method - that everything is considered a capital asset except for the specific things listed as exceptions. That's much easier to understand than trying to memorize what IS a capital asset. Thanks to everyone who contributed, especially those who shared practical resources and experiences. As someone just starting to do more serious tax planning, this kind of community knowledge sharing is invaluable!

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@Abigail Patel - I was in a similar situation when I started with gig work! Here's what I wish someone had told me right away: Since you're earning around $800 so far and expect to make $2500-3000 total, you'll definitely need to pay self-employment tax (15.3%) plus regular income tax. The good news is you have some time before the September 15th deadline. My advice: Start tracking your mileage RIGHT NOW if you haven't already. Every mile you drive while working (including driving to your first delivery and between orders) is deductible at $0.67 per mile. This can significantly reduce what you owe. For a rough estimate, take your gross earnings, subtract your mileage deduction, then set aside about 25-30% of what's left for taxes. You can use Form 1040-ES to calculate your exact quarterly payment. Don't stress too much - as a new gig worker, there are safe harbor rules that can help you avoid penalties even if you underpay slightly. The most important thing is to start tracking everything now and make your best estimate for the September payment. Also keep receipts for any work-related expenses like phone bills, hot bags, car maintenance, etc. - these are all deductible!

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Adriana Cohn

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@Giovanni Colombo This is really helpful, thank you! I had no idea about the mileage deduction being so significant. Quick question - when you say every "mile while working, does" that include driving home after my last delivery? And do I need to keep a physical log or is a phone app sufficient for the IRS? I m'definitely going to start tracking everything immediately. The 25-30% rule of thumb seems much more manageable than trying to figure out all the complicated tax forms right now. Really appreciate you breaking it down so clearly!

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Dominic Green

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@Adriana Cohn Great questions! Yes, driving home after your last delivery counts as deductible mileage since you re'still on "duty until" you officially end your dash. The IRS considers this part of your work commute. For tracking, a phone app is absolutely sufficient and actually preferred over a handwritten log. Apps like Stride, MileIQ, or even Google Maps timeline provide GPS-based records that are much more reliable than manual logs if you ever face an audit. The key is consistency - make sure you re'tracking every single dash. One tip I learned the hard way: don t'forget to track miles when you drive to a different area to start dashing. If you normally dash near your home but decide to drive to a busier area across town, those miles to get there are deductible too since you re'driving for business purposes. The IRS wants to see date, mileage, starting/ending locations, and business purpose. Most apps capture all of this automatically, which makes tax time so much easier!

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@Abigail Patel - Since you're just starting out with Doordash, here's a simple action plan for your situation: **Immediate steps:** 1. Download a mileage tracking app TODAY (Stride is free and works great) 2. Start tracking every mile while you're dashing - this will be your biggest tax deduction 3. Set aside 25-30% of your earnings in a separate savings account for taxes **For the September 15th deadline:** Since you've only made $800 so far, you likely won't owe a huge amount for this quarter. You can use the IRS Form 1040-ES worksheet to calculate your exact payment, but don't panic if you can't pay the full amount - there are penalty safe harbors for new self-employed workers. **Key deductions to track:** - Mileage (67Β’ per mile in 2024) - Phone bill percentage used for work - Any supplies like hot bags, phone mounts, etc. **The 1099 situation:** You're right that Doordash will send you a 1099-NEC if you earn over $600, but it won't come until January 2025. Don't wait for it - you need to track your own earnings and make quarterly payments based on what you know you've earned. Since this is your first year, focus on getting into good tracking habits now rather than stressing about perfect calculations. The most important thing is starting that paper trail!

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@GalacticGuardian This is exactly what I needed - a clear step-by-step plan! I just downloaded Stride and I'm kicking myself for not tracking mileage from the beginning. I've probably lost out on hundreds of dollars in deductions already. One thing I'm still confused about - you mentioned "penalty safe harbors for new self-employed workers." What exactly does that mean? Does that give me some leeway if I underpay on the September 15th deadline? I'm worried I might not calculate everything perfectly since this is all so new to me. Also, for the phone bill deduction - how do I figure out what percentage is for work? I use my phone for personal stuff too, so I'm not sure how to split that up properly. Thanks for making this feel way less overwhelming!

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