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Has anyone compared the processing times between tax1099.com and other services like Track1099 or eFile4Biz? I'm wondering if this is specific to tax1099.com or just how state filing works in general.
I've used both tax1099.com and Track1099 (different businesses), and honestly the state processing times were slow with both. I think it's just the state systems being outdated rather than the service you use to submit.
I can relate to your frustration! I've been using tax1099.com for two years now and California state processing is consistently the slowest part. Last year my federal acceptance came through in 24 hours but the state took nearly 6 weeks. What helped me was setting up email notifications in my tax1099.com dashboard so I'd get alerts the moment the state finally processed. Also, I started keeping a simple spreadsheet with submission dates and expected processing windows for each state I file in - California I now budget 4-6 weeks minimum. The good news is once you get that state acceptance, it usually means your filing was perfect and you're all set. Just painful waiting! Your contractors definitely don't need to wait for this - they can file with the copies you already provided them.
That's a really smart approach with the spreadsheet! I'm definitely going to start tracking processing times by state. Do you happen to know if there's any pattern to when California processes these? Like are they faster at certain times of the month or year? Just trying to set better expectations for my own sanity next time around.
I went through this exact scenario two years ago and it was honestly one of the most stressful parts of selling my home. The "allowable but not taken" depreciation rule is brutal - you're essentially penalized for not knowing about a deduction you were entitled to take. Here's what I learned: Even though you never claimed the depreciation, the IRS considers that your home's basis was reduced by the allowable amount anyway. So when you sell, they calculate your gain as if you had been taking depreciation all along. It feels like being punished for following the rules (or at least what you thought were the rules). The silver lining is that you can still amend returns for 2022-2024 to claim some of that missed depreciation. I ended up recovering about $3,200 in tax savings by amending three years of returns. It's not fun paperwork, but it's worth doing since you're going to face the recapture regardless. One other thing - make sure you have good documentation of when you started using the home office and what percentage of your home it represents. The IRS will want to see this if they ever audit the depreciation calculations. I had to recreate some records from memory and it was a nightmare. Best of luck with your sale next year! Despite the depreciation recapture headache, I was still happy to have had the home office deduction benefits during the years I used it.
Thank you so much for sharing your real-world experience with this! It's both reassuring and terrifying to hear from someone who actually went through it. The idea that the IRS considers your basis reduced even when you never claimed the depreciation is mind-boggling - it really does feel like a penalty for not knowing about a rule that seems counterintuitive. Your point about documentation is especially helpful. I've been pretty good about keeping records of my home office setup and expenses, but I should probably go back and make sure I have clear documentation of the exact start date and square footage calculations. Better to have too much documentation than not enough when dealing with the IRS. The $3,200 you recovered by amending three years of returns definitely makes the paperwork hassle seem worth it. Did you handle the amendments yourself or did you end up working with a tax professional for that part? I'm trying to figure out if this is something I can tackle on my own or if I should bite the bullet and hire someone who knows these rules inside and out.
I handled the amendments myself using the calculations from one of the tools mentioned earlier in this thread (taxr.ai), but I had a CPA review everything before filing just to be safe. The amended returns themselves aren't too complicated once you have the correct depreciation amounts calculated - it's mainly updating Schedule C and Form 4562. The tricky part is making sure you get the depreciation calculation right in the first place. You need your home's original basis, the business percentage, and you have to use the correct depreciation method and timeline. If you're comfortable with tax forms and have good records, you can probably handle the amendments yourself. But given that you'll likely need professional help for the actual sale year anyway (with Form 4797 and the recapture calculations), it might make sense to establish that relationship now. One thing I wished I had done differently - I would have started the amendment process earlier. It took a few months to get the refunds processed, and I could have used that extra cash flow before the sale closed. The IRS isn't exactly speedy with amended return processing, especially during busy seasons.
This thread has been incredibly helpful - I'm in almost the exact same situation and had no idea about the "allowable but not taken" depreciation rule until reading this. I've been using about 12% of my home as an office since 2021 and never claimed depreciation because I thought I was being conservative and avoiding complications. Turns out I was just setting myself up for a bigger tax hit when I sell! One question I haven't seen addressed: if I'm planning to sell in late 2025, should I stop using my home office now to get the 2+ years of non-business use before the sale? From what I understand, this won't help with the depreciation recapture, but it would allow me to apply the full primary residence exclusion to the entire home. Also, for anyone else in this situation, I just wanted to confirm that the amendments really are worth doing. I ran some quick calculations based on the examples given here, and even with just 3 amendable years, I could potentially recover around $2,000 in tax benefits while still facing the same recapture amount. It's definitely worth the paperwork hassle. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this is exactly the kind of real-world advice you can't find in the IRS publications!
Yes, stopping your home office use now would definitely be worth considering if you're selling in late 2025! You're absolutely right that it won't eliminate the depreciation recapture for the years 2021-2025 when you did use it for business, but getting that 2+ years of non-business use would allow you to claim the full primary residence exclusion ($250k single/$500k married) on your entire home. Without that 2-year conversion period, the business portion of your home (that 12%) would be excluded from the primary residence benefit, which could result in significant additional capital gains tax on top of the depreciation recapture. So even though you'll still owe the recapture tax on the allowable depreciation from your business use years, you'd avoid capital gains tax on what could be a substantial amount. Your calculation about recovering around $2,000 through amendments sounds about right for that timeframe and percentage. I'd definitely recommend getting those amendment calculations done soon since you mentioned selling in late 2025 - you'll want those refunds processed and want to have all your depreciation documentation organized well before the sale. The 2-year conversion rule is definitely one of those planning opportunities that more people should know about. Smart thinking on your part!
I went through this exact same nightmare last year! The key thing that finally clicked for me was understanding that the W4 redesign was actually meant to fix the multiple jobs problem, but it requires you to coordinate ALL your W4s together as a household unit, not fill them out individually. Here's what worked for us (similar situation - I have 2 jobs, spouse has 1): 1. Only fill out the "multiple jobs" section (Step 2) on ONE person's W4 - typically the highest earner 2. On that same W4, put ALL the extra withholding needed in Step 4(c) 3. Leave the other W4s simple - just filing status and basic info The reason the IRS calculator, worksheet, and CPA are giving you different numbers is they're making different assumptions about your remaining pay periods and year-to-date withholding. The IRS calculator is usually most accurate IF you input everything correctly. One trick that helped me: I used last year's tax return to "back-calculate" what our effective tax rate should be, then compared that to what was actually being withheld from all our paychecks combined. The gap was exactly what I needed to add as extra withholding. Also, definitely update Step 4(b) for your itemized deductions - that mortgage interest deduction will reduce how much you need to withhold. The payroll vendor switch in July probably messed up your withholding calculations midyear, which is why you're seeing the difference in your paystubs. When you redo W4s midyear, the new calculations don't account for what was already withheld under the old settings.
This is really helpful! I'm in a similar situation but with slightly different timing - we both started new jobs in September, so we're dealing with multiple W4 changes mid-year. When you say to coordinate all W4s as a household unit, do you mean I should leave my spouse's W4 completely basic (just married filing jointly) and put all the multiple jobs calculations and extra withholding on my highest-paying job's W4? Also, how do you handle it when one spouse gets irregular bonuses throughout the year - do those mess up the withholding calculations you set up?
Yes, exactly! Leave your spouse's W4 completely basic - just select "Married Filing Jointly" and don't fill out any of the multiple jobs sections or additional withholding amounts. Put all the coordination work on your highest-paying job's W4. For irregular bonuses, they can definitely throw off your calculations, but there are a few ways to handle it: 1. If you can estimate the bonus amounts for the year, include them in the IRS withholding calculator when you're setting up your W4 2. For truly unpredictable bonuses, you might want to run the calculator again after a large bonus and adjust your remaining withholding if needed 3. Another approach is to set your regular paycheck withholding to be slightly conservative (withhold a bit extra) to create a buffer for bonus-related underpayment Since you both started new jobs in September, you're actually in a better position than the original poster because you have fewer months of potentially incorrect withholding to catch up on. Just make sure when you use the IRS calculator that you input your year-to-date withholding from ALL jobs (including any previous employers from earlier this year) so it can calculate the right adjustment for your remaining paychecks. The mid-year job changes actually make it more important to coordinate your W4s this way, since the new employers' payroll systems have no idea what was withheld at your previous jobs.
I've been through this exact frustration with the new W4 system! As someone who's helped many people navigate multiple job withholding issues, I can tell you that the $450-500 recommendation from the IRS calculator is likely your best bet if you input all the information accurately. The reason you're getting such different numbers is timing and methodology: - The IRS calculator accounts for your year-to-date underpayment AND projects forward - The worksheet gives a simplified annual estimate that doesn't account for catching up - Your CPA's method only covers what you owed last year, not the current year shortfall Since you mentioned the payroll vendor switch in July caused your withholding to drop, you're absolutely right that you need to withhold more than just next year's amount - you need to catch up on 8+ months of underpayment. One important point about your itemized deductions: definitely update Step 4(b) on your W4 to account for itemizing instead of taking the standard deduction. This will reduce your withholding appropriately since you'll have higher deductions from your mortgage interest. For coordination between your three jobs, I'd recommend putting ALL the extra withholding on your highest-paying job's W4 (Step 4c) and leaving your other W4s and your husband's W4 with just basic married filing jointly status. This makes it much easier to track and adjust if needed. The good news is once you get this sorted out, the new W4 system will actually be more accurate than the old one for your multiple job situation!
This is exactly the kind of comprehensive advice I was hoping to find! I'm dealing with a very similar situation and have been getting conflicting guidance from different sources. Your point about the timing differences between the calculation methods makes so much sense - I hadn't considered that the IRS calculator is trying to catch up on the year-to-date shortfall while other methods are just looking at annual amounts. One follow-up question: when you say to put ALL the extra withholding on the highest-paying job's W4, should I also be coordinating the "multiple jobs" checkbox in Step 2c across all three W4s, or just handle everything through the additional withholding amount in Step 4c? I've been afraid to check that box because I wasn't sure if it would create double-counting if multiple jobs had it checked. Also, for the itemized deduction update in Step 4b - do I put the full amount of our itemized deductions there, or just the amount that exceeds the standard deduction? The form instructions aren't super clear on this point.
This isn't directly related to your question, but make sure you're also looking at Box 2a (Capital Gain Distributions) on your 1099-DIV. These are reported on Schedule D and then flow to your 1040. Lots of people miss that one. For your cash liquidation question, my understanding is that this happens when a company you own stock in partially or completely liquidates. You should have received a letter from the company explaining the liquidation. Did you get anything like that?
Thanks for mentioning Box 2a! I do have a small amount there ($12.45) that I'm reporting on Schedule D. And yes, I did get a notification about the liquidation. It was for a small REIT position I had that was bought out. I think what confused me is that the brokerage also reported it as a normal sale on my 1099-B, so I wasn't sure if I needed to do something with Box 9 on the 1099-DIV separately or if it was already factored into the sale proceeds on the 1099-B.
That makes sense - in this case, you need to be careful not to double-report the income. If the liquidation is already reported on your 1099-B as a sale, you should use that to report the transaction on Schedule D. The amount in Box 9 of your 1099-DIV is informational to help you understand why the sale occurred. Double-check the 1099-B to make sure the basis is reported correctly. If the REIT was bought out, you'll want to make sure your gain/loss calculation is accurate. Sometimes in these situations, you might need to make adjustments if the basis on the 1099-B doesn't properly account for all your previous investments and reinvested dividends.
Just want to add that the nondividend distributions (Box 3) are super important to track over time. I messed this up years ago with some MLPs and ended up incorrectly calculating my gain when I sold. Had to file an amended return.
What's the easiest way to keep track of these basis adjustments over multiple years? My broker doesn't seem to do it automatically.
I use a simple spreadsheet to track this. Create columns for: stock symbol, original purchase date, original cost basis, running total of nondividend distributions received, and adjusted basis (original basis minus total distributions). Update it each year when you get your 1099-DIVs. Some people also use portfolio tracking software like Quicken or just keep a running note in their tax files. The key is being consistent about it every year - don't wait until you sell to try to reconstruct the history!
Zainab Yusuf
Most of us here have found that H&R Block takes fees from federal refunds, not state. In my 7 years using them, they've always taken exactly $139.99 from my federal return and left my state refund untouched. The consensus seems to be that this is their standard practice, though as others have mentioned, there might be exceptions if your federal refund is delayed or too small to cover their fees. The smartest approach is to just ask them directly when you're filing - they'll tell you exactly which refund will be affected.
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Nia Thompson
Based on my experience working with tax preparation services, H&R Block's fee deduction process follows a pretty standard hierarchy. They primarily deduct from federal refunds because: 1. Federal refunds are typically larger amounts 2. Federal processing is more standardized and predictable 3. Their refund transfer system is designed to work with the federal refund flow However, there are some important exceptions to be aware of: - If your federal refund is delayed or under review (like for Earned Income Credit or Additional Child Tax Credit), they may switch to state - If your federal refund is smaller than their fee, they'll need to use state or require upfront payment - Some states have different processing timelines that could affect their decision My recommendation is to explicitly ask them during your appointment or online checkout process which refund they plan to use for fee deduction. They should be able to tell you definitively based on your specific tax situation. This way you can plan your finances accordingly and avoid any surprises when the refunds hit your account.
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Lauren Zeb
ā¢This is incredibly helpful! As someone new to tax filing, I really appreciate you breaking down the hierarchy and exceptions. The point about federal refunds being under review potentially switching the fee source to state is something I hadn't considered. I'm planning to file next week and will definitely ask them upfront which refund they'll use - better to know ahead of time than be surprised later when trying to balance my budget. Thank you for such a thorough explanation!
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