IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Caden Nguyen

•

The real question is how would the IRS even know about your under the table work? Unless someone reports you or you're depositing large cash amounts regularly, they have no way to track cash transactions. Not saying you shouldn't report it, just saying realistically the chances of getting caught are pretty low for small amounts.

0 coins

Avery Flores

•

This is terrible advice. The IRS has sophisticated methods to detect unreported income, including lifestyle analysis, bank deposit analysis, and information from third parties. They also run statistical comparisons against similar taxpayers in your area and profession. Plus the penalties for intentional non-reporting are severe - we're talking 75% penalty on the tax you should have paid PLUS interest PLUS potential criminal charges for willful evasion. They can look back many years if they suspect fraud. Not worth the risk for a few thousand dollars.

0 coins

Caden Nguyen

•

You're probably right. I didn't consider all that. I've always reported my side income but know plenty of people who don't. Guess they're taking a bigger risk than I realized.

0 coins

I was in a really similar situation a few years ago with about $9K in unreported cash income from freelance graphic design work. I kept putting off dealing with it because I was scared, but honestly the process of coming clean was way less painful than the constant anxiety of wondering if I'd get caught. I ended up filing an amended return for the year I missed and had to pay some back taxes plus interest, but no penalties since I voluntarily disclosed it. The IRS actually has programs specifically for people who want to come forward voluntarily - they're much more lenient than if they catch you first. One thing I learned is that even without perfect documentation, you can reconstruct your income using things like text messages with clients, bank statements showing cash deposits, or even just your best honest recollection of jobs and amounts. The key is being able to show you made a good faith effort to be accurate. My advice would be to bite the bullet and report everything. The peace of mind is worth way more than whatever extra tax you'll owe, and you'll sleep better knowing you're not looking over your shoulder anymore.

0 coins

Amara Eze

•

Does anyone know if this credit phases out completely at certain income levels? My wife and I both contribute to Roth IRAs but our combined income is around $70k.

0 coins

StarStrider

•

Yes, the Saver's Credit does phase out completely at certain income levels. For 2024, if you're married filing jointly, the credit phases out completely if your AGI is above $73,000. With your combined income of around $70k, you should still qualify for the 10% credit rate. For married filing jointly in 2024, the brackets are: - 50% credit if AGI is $43,500 or less - 20% credit if AGI is $43,501-$47,500 - 10% credit if AGI is $47,501-$73,000 - No credit if AGI is above $73,000 So at $70k income, you'd get a 10% credit on up to $4,000 in combined retirement contributions, meaning a maximum credit of $400. Definitely worth claiming!

0 coins

Isaiah Cross

•

Just want to add that you should also make sure you have your Form 5498 from Vanguard when you file. This form shows your IRA contributions for the year and the IRS uses it to verify your eligibility for the Saver's Credit. Vanguard usually mails these out by May 31st for the previous tax year, but you don't need to wait for it to file your return since you know how much you contributed. Also, keep in mind that only the contributions you made during the 2024 tax year count toward the 2024 credit. So if you contributed $5,700 in 2024, that's what you'd use for Form 8880. The $3,100 you contributed back in 2022 would have been eligible for the 2022 credit if your income qualified that year. It's really great that FreeTaxUSA caught this for you - a lot of people miss out on this credit simply because they don't know it exists!

0 coins

Zainab Omar

•

This is really helpful information! I'm new to this community and just learning about all these tax credits I never knew existed. Quick question - do I need to wait for the Form 5498 to arrive before I can file, or is it okay to file based on my own records of contributions? I keep pretty good track of my deposits to my Roth IRA but I'm worried about getting the numbers wrong and having issues with the IRS later. Also, does anyone know if there are other retirement-related credits or deductions that commonly get missed? I'm starting to realize I might have been leaving money on the table for years!

0 coins

Dmitry Popov

•

For anyone still struggling with this, here's a systematic approach that's helped me: First, try to decode the abbreviation yourself - most are pretty logical once you think about them (SUI = State Unemployment Insurance, GTLI = Group Term Life Insurance, etc.). Second, check if your employer has a benefits portal or employee handbook that explains these codes - mine had a whole section I never knew existed! Third, look at your final paystub from December which often has more detailed descriptions. If all else fails, don't stress too much about picking the perfect category - TurboTax is pretty forgiving, and you can always amend your return later if you discover you made an error. The key is just making sure you don't ignore box 14 entirely, since some of these items (like taxable moving expenses or excess life insurance) actually do affect your tax liability.

0 coins

Andre Laurent

•

This is really helpful advice! I wish I had seen this systematic approach before I spent three hours googling random tax codes last night. Your point about the benefits portal is spot-on - I just checked mine and found a whole PDF guide to payroll deductions that explains all the abbreviations they use. Turns out my "FSA-HC" code was just for my health care flexible spending account contributions, which was way simpler than I thought. Thanks for breaking this down step-by-step!

0 coins

Yuki Ito

•

Great thread everyone! I had a similar issue with my W-2 showing "PARK" in box 14 with $480. Turns out it was for employer-provided parking benefits. Since the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act, employer-paid parking over $280/month is now taxable income that needs to be reported. One thing I learned from my tax preparer is that if you're really unsure about a box 14 item, it's often safer to select "Other" and add a description rather than guessing at a specific category. TurboTax will still process it correctly, and you avoid the risk of miscategorizing something that could affect your tax liability. The IRS cares more about you reporting the income accurately than having it in the exact right bucket. Also, for future reference, keep your final paystub from December - it usually has way more detail about these deductions than the W-2 itself!

0 coins

Jacob Lee

•

This is such great advice about the parking benefits! I had no idea that employer-paid parking could be taxable income now. I've been getting free parking at my office for years and never thought twice about it. Now I'm wondering if I need to check my W-2 more carefully. Your point about selecting "Other" when unsure is really reassuring - I've been so paranoid about picking the wrong category and triggering an audit or something. It's good to know that being accurate with the amounts is more important than getting the exact category perfect. And yes, definitely keeping my December paystub from now on! I usually just toss them after getting my W-2, but clearly that's a mistake. Thanks for sharing your experience with the tax preparer's advice - that professional perspective is really valuable for those of us doing our own taxes!

0 coins

Harper Hill

•

Has anyone had issues with property taxes being reported incorrectly on these 1098 forms after a loan transfer? My new servicer didn't report any of the property taxes paid through escrow, but the old one did. Trying to figure out if I need to get a corrected form.

0 coins

Caden Nguyen

•

Yes! This happened to me last year. The new servicer didn't report property taxes because they claimed they didn't make the actual property tax payment - the old servicer did it just before the transfer. Check your escrow statements from both servicers. You can deduct the property taxes you paid regardless of whether they're reported correctly on the 1098 forms, but you'll need documentation.

0 coins

Harper Hill

•

Thanks for the confirmation - I'll pull my escrow statements and see what they show. My closing was in October so most of the property taxes should have been paid by the previous owner, but there was a small prorated amount I paid. Guessing that's what's causing the confusion between servicers.

0 coins

NeonNinja

•

This is exactly the situation I found myself in last year! The stress of trying to figure out which numbers to use was keeping me up at night. What really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet where I listed every mortgage payment I made throughout the year with the dates and amounts, then compared that to what each 1098 form was reporting. I discovered that my original lender was including some fees in their interest calculation that weren't actually deductible interest, while my new servicer had the cleaner numbers. The key is to focus on what you actually paid in mortgage interest, not necessarily what the forms say if there are discrepancies. Also, don't stress too much about triggering an audit - mortgage interest reporting issues are super common and the IRS sees this all the time. As long as you're being honest about what you actually paid and can document it, you'll be fine. Keep copies of all your payment records and mortgage statements just in case you need them later!

0 coins

Mei Chen

•

This spreadsheet approach is brilliant! I'm definitely going to try this. Just to clarify - when you say your original lender was including fees that weren't deductible interest, what kind of fees were those? I want to make sure I'm not accidentally claiming something I shouldn't on my return. Also, how did you figure out which fees were legitimate interest versus other charges?

0 coins

I'd recommend filing a report with your state's Department of Labor too. If they're reporting wages they didn't pay you, that's a serious issue. The DOL might light a fire under the company to fix this faster than you can on your own.

0 coins

This is good advice. I work in HR, and I can tell you companies take DOL inquiries VERY seriously. We respond to those immediately because the penalties can be significant. Just mentioning that you're considering filing a DOL complaint might be enough to get someone's attention.

0 coins

This is definitely a frustrating situation, but you have several good options to resolve it. Based on what you've described, it sounds like a clear payroll error since you have documentation that you stopped working in November. Here's what I'd recommend doing immediately: 1. **Document everything** - Keep all your communication attempts with the company, your final paystub from November, and any employment termination paperwork you have. 2. **Don't wait indefinitely** - You can file your taxes on time using Form 4852 (Substitute for Form W-2) if the company won't respond. Since you know you didn't work during that period, you can accurately report zero income for those dates. 3. **Try the certified letter approach** mentioned earlier, but also consider escalating to their corporate office if it's a larger company. 4. **Contact the IRS directly** - Call their business and specialty tax line at 800-829-4933 to report the incorrect W-2. They can guide you through the process and may contact the employer on your behalf. The key thing is not to let this delay your tax filing. You have legitimate recourse options, and the IRS deals with these situations regularly. If you end up needing to file an amended return later, that's totally manageable - it's better than missing the deadline while waiting for an unresponsive employer.

0 coins

This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with something similar where my former employer is just completely ignoring me. Quick question - when you call that IRS business line, do you need to have specific information ready? Like should I have my W2 and paystubs in front of me when I call, or do they just need basic details about the situation? Also, has anyone actually used Form 4852 before? I'm worried about doing it wrong and getting in trouble with the IRS later if it turns out I made a mistake on the form.

0 coins

Prev1...575576577578579...5643Next