IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

I'm sorry you're going through this stressful situation. Based on what others have shared here, keeping the money in Cash App and using their debit card seems like your safest bet right now. The IRS levy is specific to your bank account, so funds that never touch that account should be protected. A few additional thoughts from someone who's dealt with IRS issues: **Immediate relief options:** - Use the Cash App card directly for groceries and necessities - Ask your brother to send smaller amounts over time rather than one large transfer to reduce risk - Consider having family members pay bills directly on your behalf instead of sending money **Longer-term solutions:** - Call the IRS hardship line and be very specific about your inability to afford food and basic needs - Mention any medications you need, upcoming rent/utilities due dates, etc. - The taxpayer advocate service (1-877-777-4778) can expedite hardship reviews **Important:** The IRS is legally required to leave you enough for basic living expenses. If the levy has taken everything, you have grounds for an immediate hardship release. Document your essential monthly expenses and be prepared to explain exactly how much you need and why. Don't let them intimidate you - there are protections in place for situations exactly like yours. Focus on getting that payment plan established and use these workarounds for immediate needs. You'll get through this!

0 coins

This is such thorough and reassuring advice! I'm dealing with a similar situation and was panicking about how to even buy groceries. The idea of having family pay bills directly is brilliant - I hadn't thought of that option. One quick question though - when you mention asking family to send smaller amounts over time instead of one large transfer, is that just to be more cautious, or is there an actual dollar threshold that might trigger additional IRS attention? I'm wondering if there's a safer amount to receive at once versus breaking it up into smaller payments. Also, thank you for emphasizing that there are legal protections. It's easy to feel completely helpless when dealing with the IRS, but knowing there are actual requirements for them to leave basic living expenses makes this feel more manageable.

0 coins

The smaller amounts suggestion is more about being cautious than any specific threshold. While there's no magic number that triggers IRS attention, keeping transfers under $1000 at a time just reduces the visibility if they ever do look into your financial activity. It's really more about peace of mind than a hard rule. The direct bill payment idea is definitely underutilized - your family can pay your landlord, utility companies, or even grocery stores directly without money ever flowing through your accounts. Many people don't realize that Walmart, Target, and most grocery chains accept third-party payments over the phone if you provide your family member's card information. You're absolutely right that there are legal protections, and it's important to know your rights. The IRS Collection Standards actually specify minimum amounts they must leave you for housing, food, transportation, and medical expenses. Don't be afraid to advocate for yourself - you have more power in this situation than it might feel like right now.

0 coins

StarStrider

•

I feel for your situation - having a tax levy is incredibly stressful, especially when you can't afford basic necessities. Based on the excellent advice already shared here, keeping that $600 in Cash App and using their debit card is definitely your safest option right now. The IRS levy is specific to your bank account, so money that stays in payment apps like Cash App should be protected. Here's what I'd prioritize if I were in your shoes: **Immediate needs:** Use the Cash App card directly for groceries, gas, and other essentials. Don't transfer any of it to your levied bank account. **Call the IRS ASAP:** Even though you're working on a payment plan, call their hardship line (1-800-829-1040) and explain that you literally cannot afford food and basic living expenses due to the levy. Be specific - tell them exactly how much you need for groceries this week, when your rent is due, etc. They are legally required to leave you enough for basic survival. **Document everything:** Keep track of all your essential monthly expenses (rent, utilities, food, transportation, medications) with actual dollar amounts. This will help when you speak with the IRS about hardship relief. The taxpayer advocate service (1-877-777-4778) mentioned by others can also expedite hardship reviews if the regular IRS line isn't helpful. Don't give up - there are protections in place for exactly this type of situation, and you have rights even with an active levy. Stay strong, and remember this is temporary. Once you get that payment plan established, the levy should be released and you can get back to normal banking.

0 coins

Anita George

•

This is really solid advice! I'm new to dealing with tax issues and was wondering - when you call the IRS hardship line and explain your situation, do they typically ask for any verification of your expenses, or do they take your word for it initially? I'm in a similar situation and want to be prepared for the call. Also, how long does it usually take for them to process a hardship release once you've made the request? I'm trying to figure out if this could help me get access to funds quickly enough for rent that's due next week.

0 coins

When I called the IRS hardship line for my levy situation, they initially took my word for the basic expense amounts but did ask me to be specific about dollar figures. They wanted to know my monthly rent amount, typical grocery costs, utility bills, etc. They didn't require documentation during the initial call, but they did tell me I might need to provide proof later if they decided to do a more detailed review. For processing time, I was pleasantly surprised - they processed my hardship request within 48 hours and I saw the partial release in my account on the third business day. Since your rent is due next week, I'd definitely call as soon as possible. When you call, be very direct about the timing - tell them "my rent of $X is due on [specific date] and I currently have no access to funds due to the levy." The urgency seems to help prioritize these requests. Also, make sure to get a reference number for your hardship request so you can follow up if needed. The IRS agents have been more helpful than I expected once I explained the immediate hardship situation clearly.

0 coins

Chloe Harris

•

The jump from 12% to 22% really caught my attention too when I first started doing my own taxes! What helped me understand it better was realizing that this bracket structure actually encourages certain behaviors that benefit both taxpayers and the economy. Beyond the retirement savings incentive that others mentioned, the gap also encourages things like HSA contributions, dependent care FSAs, and other pre-tax benefits that can help you stay in that lower bracket. I've found that maximizing these benefits not only reduces my tax burden but also forces me to be more strategic about financial planning. One thing I wish more people understood is that you can use this bracket jump to your advantage with timing. If you're close to the threshold, you might consider deferring some income to the next year (like bonuses) or accelerating deductions into the current year. It's like a built-in financial planning tool once you understand how to work with it rather than against it. The system isn't perfect, but understanding these nuances really helped me stop feeling like taxes were just something that "happened" to me and more like something I could actively manage.

0 coins

This is such valuable insight, especially about timing income and deductions! I never thought about strategically deferring bonuses or accelerating deductions to manage which bracket I fall into. As someone new to really understanding how taxes work, could you give a specific example of how you might defer income to the next year? Like if I'm expecting a year-end bonus that would push me into the 22% bracket, what are my realistic options for pushing that to January instead? I'm not sure if my employer would even be willing to do that. The HSA and FSA tip is great too - I've been underutilizing those benefits without realizing they could help keep me in the lower bracket. Thanks for sharing these strategies!

0 coins

The 12% to 22% jump has always puzzled me too, but I think there's an important piece that often gets overlooked - this structure actually reflects different phases of earning capacity and financial responsibility. Think about it: people in the 12% bracket are often just starting their careers, paying off student loans, maybe renting rather than owning homes. The jump to 22% typically happens when people hit their stride professionally - they're established in their careers, possibly homeowners, and generally have more capacity to contribute to the tax base that funds essential services. The smaller increments at higher income levels (like that 32% to 35% jump) make sense because those earners are already contributing substantial absolute dollar amounts. A 2-3% increase on $500K income generates way more revenue than a 10% increase on $50K income. I've found that focusing on effective tax rates rather than marginal rates helps put this in perspective. Even if you're "in" the 22% bracket, your effective rate across all income is much lower due to the progressive structure. It's designed to balance revenue generation with economic mobility - giving people room to grow financially while ensuring those who benefit most from our economic system contribute proportionally.

0 coins

I'm so sorry for the loss of both your parents - that's an incredibly difficult situation to navigate while also dealing with complex tax issues. Based on what you've shared, there are several concerning aspects to your tax preparer's advice. The suggestion to "roll over" the refund to next year is fundamentally incorrect for deceased taxpayers. Once someone passes away, the IRS doesn't maintain ongoing tax accounts for them, so there's no mechanism to carry forward a refund to future tax years that won't exist. The $6,800 refund from your parents' joint return legally belongs to your mother's estate since she was the surviving spouse. To properly claim this refund, you'll need to file Form 1310 as the estate executor. Your stepbrother's potential claim would depend entirely on whether he's named as a beneficiary in your mother's will or estate planning documents - his rights through your father's separate trust don't automatically extend to your mother's estate assets. Given the significant amount involved and the family dynamics at play, I'd strongly recommend consulting with an estate attorney or a CPA who specializes in deceased taxpayer returns before proceeding. You want to ensure you're following the proper legal procedures and protecting yourself from any future disputes. The current accountant's advice suggests they may not have sufficient experience with estate tax matters, which could create problems down the line.

0 coins

This is really solid advice, and I appreciate how you've broken down the key issues so clearly. The point about the accountant's incorrect "rollover" suggestion is particularly important - it makes me wonder what other aspects of estate tax law they might not fully understand. I'm curious about the timeline for filing Form 1310. Is there a deadline for claiming refunds for deceased taxpayers? Also, given that the stepbrother is already asking questions and uses the same accountant, would it be wise to notify the accountant in writing that they should not be discussing the estate's tax matters with anyone other than the authorized executor? It seems like there could be confidentiality issues there that might complicate things further. The family dynamics aspect you mentioned is so important - even if the stepbrother has no legal claim to the refund, having proper documentation and following the correct procedures will help avoid unnecessary conflicts during an already difficult time.

0 coins

Kevin Bell

•

I'm really sorry for the loss of both your parents so close together - that must be incredibly overwhelming to deal with while also trying to navigate these complex tax and estate issues. Based on what you've described, your tax preparer has given you some fundamentally incorrect advice that could create serious problems. You absolutely cannot "roll over" a tax refund for deceased taxpayers to future years because the IRS doesn't maintain accounts for people who have passed away. This is a major red flag that suggests your accountant may not have adequate experience with deceased taxpayer situations. Here's what you need to know: The $6,800 refund from your parents' joint return legally belongs to your mother's estate since she was the last surviving spouse. To claim it properly, you'll need to file Form 1310 (Statement of Person Claiming Refund Due a Deceased Taxpayer) along with supporting documentation like the death certificate and proof that you're the authorized executor. Regarding your stepbrother's potential claim - this depends entirely on whether he's named as a beneficiary in your mother's will or estate documents. His connection through your father's separate trust doesn't automatically give him rights to assets from your mother's estate. However, given that he's asking questions and uses the same accountant, I'd be concerned about potential confidentiality issues and would recommend notifying the accountant in writing that estate tax matters should only be discussed with you as the executor. I'd strongly suggest getting a consultation with an estate attorney or CPA who specializes in deceased taxpayer returns before proceeding further. The amount is significant enough to warrant proper legal guidance, and you want to protect yourself from family disputes while ensuring you follow the correct IRS procedures.

0 coins

Charlie Yang

•

This is incredibly helpful and comprehensive advice - thank you for breaking down all the key issues so clearly! I'm new to this community but dealing with a similar situation with my grandmother's estate, so this thread has been really educational. One question I have about the Form 1310 process - do you know if there are any time limits for filing it? My grandmother passed away last year and we're just now getting around to dealing with her tax refund because the family situation was complicated. Also, the point about notifying the accountant in writing about confidentiality is really smart - I hadn't thought about that aspect but it makes complete sense, especially when there are potential disputes brewing. The advice about getting a second opinion from an estate specialist is spot on. It sounds like the current accountant's "rollover" suggestion shows they're not equipped to handle these complex situations properly, which could create bigger problems down the line.

0 coins

Amina Toure

•

I've been dealing with Section 179 carryovers for my consulting business and wanted to share what I've learned through some painful trial and error. The key thing that wasn't immediately obvious to me is that you need to maintain really detailed records of WHEN each carryover originated, not just the total amount. Here's why this matters: if you have carryovers from multiple years (like your $570 from 2022 plus new ones from 2025), you need to use them in FIFO order - first in, first out. So your 2022 carryover gets used before any 2025 carryover when you finally have enough business income. Also, make sure you're calculating your business income limitation correctly each year. It's not just your Schedule C profit - you need to consider the taxable income limitation as well. This caught me off guard in a year where my business was profitable but my overall tax situation was different due to other deductions. One more tip: create a simple spreadsheet to track each asset's Section 179 status. Include columns for purchase date, original cost, Section 179 amount taken, carryover amounts by year, and current status. This has saved me so much headache when preparing returns and will be invaluable if you ever get audited.

0 coins

StarSurfer

•

This is incredibly helpful! I'm new to dealing with Section 179 carryovers and had no idea about the FIFO rule. So if I understand correctly, if I have that $570 carryover from 2022 and then create a new $300 carryover in 2025, when my business finally has enough income in 2026 to use some of these deductions, I have to apply the $570 first before I can touch the $300 from 2025? Also, can you clarify what you mean by "taxable income limitation"? I thought the business income limitation was just based on the Schedule C profit. Is there another calculation I need to be aware of beyond just looking at my net business income?

0 coins

Yes, exactly right on the FIFO rule! Your $570 from 2022 gets used first before any portion of the 2025 carryover can be claimed. This is why keeping detailed records by year is so important. For the taxable income limitation, there are actually TWO tests for Section 179: the business income limitation (your Schedule C net profit) AND your overall taxable income limitation. The Section 179 deduction can't exceed your taxable income for the year from all sources. So even if your business is profitable, if you have large itemized deductions, other business losses, or other factors that reduce your overall taxable income to zero or negative, you might still be limited on Section 179. Most people only think about the business income test, but the taxable income test can bite you in years where your overall tax picture is complicated. The smaller of these two limitations determines how much Section 179 you can actually claim that year.

0 coins

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I have Section 179 carryovers from multiple years due to business losses. One thing I want to emphasize that really caught me off guard is the importance of keeping your Form 4562 from each year, even the loss years. I made the mistake of not saving my 2022 Form 4562 because "nothing happened" that year due to the loss. When I went to prepare my 2025 return, I had to reconstruct the carryover amounts from scratch. The IRS transcript didn't show the detail I needed, and it took me weeks to piece together which assets had carryover amounts and how much. Now I keep a dedicated tax folder with every Form 4562, even if the carryover amount is zero that year. I also maintain a running summary sheet that shows the carryover balance at the end of each tax year. This has made preparing subsequent years so much easier and gives me confidence that I'm not missing any deductions I'm entitled to claim. For anyone using tax software, double-check that your carryover amounts are transferring correctly year to year. I've seen cases where software updates or version changes caused carryover amounts to get lost in the transfer process.

0 coins

Connor Byrne

•

This is such great advice about keeping all the Form 4562s! I learned this lesson the hard way too. I'm actually in my first year dealing with Section 179 carryovers and I'm already creating a dedicated Section 179 tracking system based on all the advice in this thread. One question for you - when you mention keeping a "running summary sheet," do you track this by individual asset or just total carryover amounts? I'm trying to figure out the right level of detail to maintain without making it overly complicated. I have three different pieces of equipment with Section 179 carryovers from different years, and I want to make sure I'm not over-engineering my record keeping. Also, has anyone had experience with what happens if you accidentally claim a carryover amount incorrectly? Like if you use the wrong year's carryover first instead of following FIFO order? I'm paranoid about making a mistake that could trigger problems later.

0 coins

Thanks everyone for all the helpful explanations! I was making the same mistake as several others here - using net pay instead of gross. Just ran through the Tax Withholding Estimator again with my actual gross pay amounts and wow, what a difference! Turns out I need to submit a new W-4 to increase my withholding. The estimator is projecting I'll owe about $800 at tax time if I don't make changes. Better to find out now than get hit with that surprise (plus penalties) next April. One tip for anyone else going through this: make sure you have your most recent paystub handy when using the estimator. You'll need several specific numbers and it's much easier than trying to remember or estimate them.

0 coins

Mason Davis

•

This is such a helpful thread! I just went through the same process after reading everyone's advice. I was also using net pay like you were initially. One thing I learned that might help others - if you're paid bi-weekly, make sure you account for the fact that you'll have 26 pay periods in the year, not 24. I was multiplying my gross pay by 24 initially and couldn't figure out why my annual estimate seemed low. The estimator has a dropdown to select your pay frequency which helps with this calculation. Also wanted to add that after updating my W-4 based on the estimator results, I got confirmation from HR within two days that the changes would take effect on my next paycheck. So the process is pretty quick once you get the calculations right!

0 coins

Liv Park

•

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I've been putting off dealing with my withholding for months because the IRS estimator seemed so confusing, but reading everyone's experiences here finally motivated me to tackle it. Just completed the estimator using my gross pay amounts (thanks for clarifying that!), and I discovered I'm actually having too much withheld. The tool is showing I'll get a refund of about $1,200 if I don't make any changes. While that might sound nice, I'd rather have that money in my paycheck throughout the year instead of giving the government an interest-free loan. Going to adjust my W-4 to claim one additional allowance and see how that affects things. Really appreciate everyone sharing their mistakes and successes - it made the whole process way less intimidating!

0 coins

Prev1...546547548549550...5643Next