Just FYI - there are income limits for claiming the full American Opportunity Credit. For 2022, the credit starts phasing out at $80,000 for single filers and $160,000 for joint filers. If you make more than $90,000 single or $180,000 joint, you can't claim it at all.

Great question! I went through something very similar a few years ago. The key thing to understand is that the IRS counts "academic years" not credit hours when determining your four-year eligibility for the American Opportunity Credit. Since your dual enrollment credits were earned while you were still in high school, they don't count toward your four years of post-secondary education. The clock starts ticking after you graduate high school and enroll as a degree-seeking student at a college or university. Based on what you've described - only claiming the credit for two previous years and graduating in May 2022 - you should absolutely be eligible to claim it for 2022. The fact that you had 125 total credits doesn't matter for this purpose. Make sure you have your Form 1098-T from your university and documentation of your qualified education expenses. Also double-check that you meet the income requirements (the credit phases out starting at $80K for single filers in 2022). Don't leave money on the table! This credit can be worth up to $2,500 and is partially refundable, so even if you don't owe taxes, you could still get up to $1,000 back.

I'm an admin for a plumbing company and we handle this exact situation with our on-call techs. We use what's called the "commuting rule" where we only add $1.75 per one-way commute to their taxable income instead of the full lease value of the van. We also have a written policy that prohibits using the van for personal purposes (other than minimal personal stops on the way home). As long as your employer has that policy in writing and enforces it, they shouldn't be taxing you on the full value of the vehicle - just the minimal commuting value. Maybe share this with your HR or payroll department?

Based on what you've described, your employer may be incorrectly calculating your taxable benefit. Since you're required to take the van home specifically for on-call emergency response (not as a perk), and your van has permanent business modifications like built-in shelving and company logos, you likely qualify for either the "qualified nonpersonal use vehicle" exemption or at minimum the reduced "commuting rule" taxation. Under the commuting rule, you should only be taxed $1.75 each way ($3.50/day) rather than the full fair market value of the vehicle. For the qualified nonpersonal use vehicle exemption, vehicles with permanent business equipment that make personal use unlikely can be completely exempt from fringe benefit taxation. I'd recommend documenting that: 1) taking the van home is mandatory company policy for on-call techs, 2) the van has permanent business modifications, and 3) personal use is prohibited by company policy. Present this to your payroll department with references to IRS Publication 15-B sections on these specific exemptions. Your situation sounds like a textbook case for reduced or eliminated vehicle benefit taxation.

Has anyone tried requesting a Wage and Income Verification letter directly from their state tax agency? I had to do this last year for missing 2019 info, and the process was actually pretty straightforward. I filled out a form on my state's tax website (I'm in Pennsylvania), uploaded my ID for verification, and received a document with all my state withholding information within about 10 business days. The letter was official enough that I could use it for my tax filing.

I went through this exact same situation with my 2018 taxes! What ended up working for me was a combination of approaches mentioned here. First, I checked my state's tax website (I'm in California) and found they had an online portal where I could access my tax account history. After verifying my identity, I was able to see all the W-2 information that employers had submitted, including state withholding amounts. If your state doesn't have an online system, definitely try the Wage and Income Verification letter route that Dylan mentioned. I had to do this for a friend in Ohio, and it took about 2 weeks but gave us all the info we needed. One tip I'd add - if you're really stuck and need to estimate, check if your state publishes withholding tax tables for 2018. You can use your gross income from the federal transcript, your filing status, and number of allowances you claimed to calculate what *should* have been withheld. It won't be exact since it depends on your payroll frequency and when you started/stopped working, but it gives you a ballpark figure. The good news is that most states are pretty understanding about amended returns from that far back, especially if you're trying to claim a refund you're legitimately owed. Good luck with your backfiling!

I think there's some confusion here about FSA types. There are general purpose FSAs and limited purpose FSAs. If you have an HSA, you can only have a limited purpose FSA at the same time (which only covers dental and vision expenses). But if you're switching plans completely and no longer contributing to the HSA, you can have a general purpose FSA that covers all qualified medical expenses.

Great thread! I want to emphasize one important point that hasn't been fully addressed - make sure you understand the "testing period" rules if you're considering the last-month rule for HSA contributions. Since you're planning to switch away from your HDHP in May 2024, you'll want to prorate your 2024 HSA contributions based on only the months you're eligible (January through April). Also, keep good records of which expenses you reimburse from which account once you have both HSA and FSA funds available. The IRS can audit these, and you'll want clear documentation showing you didn't double-dip on any reimbursements. I'd recommend keeping a simple spreadsheet tracking medical expenses and which account you used for each one. One last tip - if you have leftover FSA funds at the end of your plan year, remember that FSAs typically have "use it or lose it" rules (though some plans offer small carryovers or grace periods). HSA funds roll over indefinitely, so plan your reimbursement strategy accordingly!

22 One important thing nobody has mentioned: some states have reciprocity agreements! For example, if you live in Virginia but work in DC, you don't have to file a DC tax return due to their reciprocity agreement. Same with some other state pairs like: - NJ and PA - MD and DC - VA and DC Always check if your states have such an agreement before assuming you need to file a non-resident return!

11 I've been living in Tennessee and working in Kentucky for 6 years now. Here's what I've learned: 1) You ALWAYS pay taxes where you earn the money, not where you live 2) Your employer should automatically withhold taxes for the state where you work 3) If you're in a no-income-tax state but work in a tax state, it's actually simpler because you only file one state return (as a non-resident) 4) If you work remotely some days, it gets complicated - you need to track days worked in each location The worst situation is living in a tax state and working in another tax state - then you have to file in both places and claim credits to avoid double taxation.