


Ask the community...
Just a heads up - IRS recently announced increased penalties for preparers who pull this kind of stuff. The "self-prepared" trick is actually super common and the IRS is cracking down on it hard. My advice? Take screenshots or photos of EVERYTHING related to this preparer - their office location, any business cards, the paperwork they gave your parents, texts or emails if you have them. The more evidence you can provide to the IRS the better. Also check if they have a PTIN (Preparer Tax Identification Number) - legitimate tax preparers are required to have one and include it on returns they prepare. Bet you anything this person doesn't have one or isn't including it to avoid accountability.
Thanks for the advice! I didn't even think about documenting the physical location. I'll definitely take pictures next time my parents go there. Do you know if there's a way to check if someone has a valid PTIN? I looked at the paperwork again and don't see any ID number for the preparer.
There's no public database where you can verify PTINs unfortunately. If the preparer didn't include their PTIN on the return where it asks for "Paid Preparer's Information," that's a violation of IRS requirements right there. Take photos of the office exterior, interior if possible, and any signage showing the business name. If they have a website or social media presence, screenshot those too - these operations sometimes disappear overnight when they get reported. Also, if your parents paid by anything other than cash, that bank or credit card statement is valuable evidence of them using this service.
Omg this happened to my sister last year! The "tax preparer" claimed she had a home office (she didn't) and business mileage for a non-existent business. She got a massive refund and was super happy until the IRS audit letter came 8 months later. She ended up having to pay back the refund PLUS penalties and interest. Just make sure your parents understand they're 100% responsible for what's on that return even if somebody else prepared it. The IRS doesn't care who filled it out - the person who signs it is on the hook.
Did your sister end up reporting the preparer too? Just curious if anything actually happens to these people when they get reported or if they just keep scamming others.
One thing to consider - if the car wasn't yours or your tenant's, did you contact the police before having it towed? In some jurisdictions, there are specific legal procedures for removing abandoned vehicles, even from private property. This could potentially affect whether the expense is considered "ordinary and necessary" for tax purposes.
Yes, we did call the police first! They came out and documented it, put one of those orange stickers on it, and told us we needed to wait 72 hours before having it towed. We followed all the proper channels. The police report actually said the car was reported stolen in another county, but for some reason the towing company still charged us because they said the owner didn't come claim it and they had storage fees.
That's good to hear! Since you followed the proper legal procedures, the expense would definitely qualify as an ordinary and necessary business expense for your rental activity. When you list it on your Schedule E, I recommend noting that proper procedures were followed and that it was necessary to maintain access to the property. While you probably won't need to provide that detail unless audited, it's good documentation to have.
I'm confused about safe harbor in general. Does it mean I don't have to keep receipts for small purchases for my rental? I've been saving every little Home Depot receipt even for $5 items and it's driving me crazy.
The de minimis safe harbor election does simplify recordkeeping, but you still need to keep receipts! What it really does is allow you to immediately deduct small-cost items (generally under $2,500 per item or invoice) rather than having to capitalize and depreciate them. For example, if you buy a $200 microwave for your rental unit, you can deduct it immediately rather than depreciating it over several years. But you absolutely should keep those receipts - they're your proof if audited. The safe harbor is about how you treat the expenses, not whether you need documentation.
Has anyone considered suggesting tax-advantaged accounts? If OP hasn't maxed out their IRA or 401k for the year, putting money there won't help with the current capital gains taxes, but it could reduce their overall tax burden.
This is what I did last year. Had about 10k in stock gains, maxed out my traditional IRA contribution for $6,500 which lowered my taxable income. Didn't eliminate the capital gains tax but my overall tax bill was lower. Every bit helps.
I actually haven't maxed out my 401k this year! Been too focused on my brokerage account since that's where I've been seeing better returns. But you're right, I should probably look at the tax advantages too. My company does a 5% match so I'm definitely leaving money on the table. Thanks for bringing this up - sometimes the obvious solutions get overlooked when you're trying to find clever tax hacks.
Remember that short-term capital gains (held less than a year) are taxed as ordinary income, but long-term gains get preferential rates. If you're close to the 1-year mark on any positions, it might be worth holding just to get the lower long-term rate. Also, don't overlook state taxes! Depending on where you live, state taxes on capital gains can be significant. Some states have no income tax (like TX, FL, WA) while others have high rates. You mentioned $14,500 in gains - what tax bracket are you in? If you're in the 12% federal income tax bracket, your long-term capital gains rate could actually be 0%!
I'm in California (ouch) and in the 22% federal bracket based on my job income. Most of my gains are long-term thankfully, but I did have a few quick trades that'll be hit with short-term rates. I've been thinking about moving to a no-income-tax state at some point, but for now I'm stuck with CA's rates on top of federal. It's a double whammy.
I'm a high school economics teacher and I dedicated two full class periods to teaching students how taxes actually work because it's criminal how little practical knowledge they're given. Made them all calculate taxes on sample incomes and they were shocked at how progressive tax brackets actually work. The best explanation I found was: "If tax brackets are 10% on the first $10k and 15% on income between $10k-$50k, and you make $20k, you pay 10% on the first $10k ($1,000) and 15% on the next $10k ($1,500) for a total of $2,500, not 15% on the full $20k." Simple explanations go a long way.
Can you share any other examples you use? I have a teen who's starting their first job and I want to teach them right from the start.
I use a tax bucket analogy with actual buckets in class. Each bucket represents a tax bracket with its rate written on it. We pour "income water" into the first bucket until it's full, then overflow into the next bucket with a higher rate, and so on. It's very visual and helps them see that only the dollars in each specific bucket get taxed at that rate. For a teen with their first job, I'd focus on explaining the W-4 form and how to calculate their likely tax burden based on their expected annual income. Also explain FICA taxes (Social Security and Medicare), which are flat taxes, versus income tax which is progressive. Most teens are surprised to learn they might not owe any federal income tax if they make under the standard deduction amount, but they'll still see FICA taxes taken out.
I didn't understand the difference between marginal and effective tax rates until my 30s, and I have a college degree! I was literally turning down overtime because I thought it would "push me into a higher bracket" and somehow result in less money. What's worse is my dad, who I thought was financially savvy, reinforced this misconception. "Be careful with raises," he'd say, "sometimes you end up with less money after taxes." Now I try to explain to friends using percentages. If you make $100k and your tax bill is $15k, your effective tax rate is 15%, even though your marginal (highest) rate might be 24%. People seem to understand that better.
You're not alone! I refused a raise for the same reason when I was younger. Such a mistake. I wonder how many people are making career decisions based on tax misconceptions?
Kaylee Cook
Don't forget that if you earn above certain thresholds, there's also the Additional Medicare Tax of 0.9% on earnings above $200,000 for single filers. That's another thing that messes up people's calculations when they're in higher income brackets. Also, you mentioned using tax brackets manually. Make sure you're using the correct tax brackets for the tax year you're calculating. They adjust for inflation each year, so the bracket cutoffs for 2024 are different than 2023.
0 coins
Nathan Kim
ā¢Thanks for pointing that out! I'm not in that income bracket yet, but good to know for future planning. Do you know if HSA contributions have any special tax implications I should be aware of? I'm trying to max mine out this year.
0 coins
Kaylee Cook
ā¢HSA contributions are pretty much the ultimate tax-advantaged account - they're pre-tax for both federal income tax AND FICA taxes (unlike 401k contributions which are still subject to FICA). Plus, the money grows tax-free and withdrawals for qualified medical expenses are tax-free too. It's basically triple tax-advantaged. One thing to be careful about though - if your HSA contributions are made through payroll deduction, they're automatically pre-tax for everything. But if you contribute directly to your HSA outside of payroll, you'll get the income tax deduction when you file your taxes, but you won't save on the FICA taxes. So payroll deduction is usually better if you have that option.
0 coins
Oliver Alexander
I had similar problems with my calculations. The issue was that I was calculating taxes on a yearly basis, but my payroll system was calculating them on a per-paycheck basis and then projecting that out. The tax brackets are applied to each paycheck as if that's what you'll make every pay period for the whole year. So if you get paid biweekly and make $4,000 per paycheck, the system calculates taxes as if you'll make $104,000 for the year ($4,000 Ć 26 paychecks). If you have months with 3 paychecks or get a bonus, that throws off the calculation even more.
0 coins
Lara Woods
ā¢This is exactly right! Payroll systems use what's called the "aggregate method" or sometimes the "annualized method" where they take your current paycheck, multiply it out to an annual amount, calculate the tax on that annual amount, then divide back down to get the withholding for that specific paycheck. This is why your withholding might be higher on paychecks with bonuses or overtime - the system thinks your annual income just went up dramatically. By year end though, it all evens out when you file your tax return.
0 coins