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I'm a contractor with an S Corp too, and my accountant explained it this way: There are THREE completely different tax obligations you need to understand: 1) Sales tax - which you may not need to collect/pay if your state doesn't tax labor services 2) Payroll taxes - which your S Corp MUST pay on your reasonable salary 3) Income taxes - which you need to pay quarterly on your expected pass-through profits Your advisor is talking about #1 but ignoring #2 and #3. Sounds like you need a different tax professional who understands S Corps better.

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Millie Long

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This breakdown is super helpful! So I think I understand now - my S Corp handles the payroll taxes on my $75K salary. But I personally need to make quarterly estimated payments on the profits that pass through to me at the end of the year. Any tips on calculating those payments so I don't underpay and get hit with penalties?

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A simple approach is to estimate your annual pass-through profit, calculate the approximate tax you'll owe (federal plus state), and divide by four for your quarterly payments. For more precision, use the IRS Form 1040-ES worksheet to calculate your required payments. The safe harbor rule is worth knowing too - if you pay at least 100% of last year's tax liability (or 110% if your income is over $150,000), you won't face underpayment penalties even if you end up owing more.

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - depending on your state, you might also have state-specific S Corp tax obligations beyond the federal ones! Here in California, for example, S Corps have to pay a minimum $800 annual franchise tax regardless of profits. Also worth noting that many states have their own quarterly estimated tax requirements for pass-through entity income. So you need to check both federal AND state requirements.

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Yep, and some states are way worse than others for S Corps. I moved my business from California to Nevada and saved thousands in those franchise taxes alone. Worth considering if you're near a state line and can legitimately relocate your business.

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Mason Lopez

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Have you tried asking your attorney or banker for recommendations? That's how I found my CPA. Attorneys and bankers work closely with accountants and usually know who's good. My bank manager introduced me to my current CPA who's been amazing with my small manufacturing business. Also check with your industry association if you belong to one. Industry-specific groups often have lists of accountants who specialize in your field. I'm part of a local manufacturing association and they maintain a preferred vendor list that's been super helpful.

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Pedro Sawyer

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That's a smart idea I hadn't considered. I do have a good relationship with my business banker. Did your banker connect you directly or just give you a name to contact? I'm wondering if a warm introduction might help get past the "not taking new clients" barrier.

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Mason Lopez

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My banker actually made a direct introduction via email, which definitely helped get me in the door. He specifically mentioned my business challenges and growth plans, which I think made the CPA more interested in working with me. A warm introduction from a mutual contact can absolutely help bypass the "no new clients" response that's so common with established CPAs. CPAs often prioritize clients who come through referrals from trusted sources because it indicates you're likely to be a serious business owner who values professional advice. It's worth asking your banker for that direct introduction rather than just getting a name - makes a world of difference!

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Vera Visnjic

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Don't forget to check reviews! Google, Yelp, and even Facebook can give you insights into how different CPAs treat their clients. I found my awesome CPA through Google reviews - she had nearly 50 five-star ratings with detailed comments about how she'd helped small businesses.

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I would be super careful with online reviews for CPAs. My friend owns a tax practice and said there are firms that offer discounts in exchange for positive reviews. Plus, a lot of the negative reviews are from people who are mad because the CPA wouldn't do something illegal or aggressive with their taxes!

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Aisha Ali

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Another option you have is to "recharacterize" that $500 from each Roth IRA to Traditional IRA. This effectively treats it as if you originally contributed to a Traditional IRA instead of a Roth. If you're over the Roth income limits, you're probably also over the deductible Traditional IRA limits if you have workplace retirement plans, so the $500 would be a non-deductible Traditional IRA contribution. This could be useful if you're planning to do a backdoor Roth conversion at some point.

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AstroAlpha

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Thanks for this suggestion. If I recharacterize to Traditional, would I need to file any special forms with my taxes this year? And can I just open a Traditional IRA now even though the contribution was technically made in 2023?

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Aisha Ali

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Yes, you would need to file Form 8606 with your tax return to report the non-deductible Traditional IRA contribution. This is important because it establishes your "basis" in the Traditional IRA, which will matter for tax purposes if you ever convert that money to a Roth in the future. You can open a Traditional IRA now even though the contribution was for 2023. The recharacterization process will treat it as if you made the contribution to the Traditional IRA in the first place. Just make sure you complete the recharacterization before your tax filing deadline (including extensions).

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Ethan Moore

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Wait, I'm confused about something. If you're at the income limit for Roth contributions, wouldn't the phase-out mean you can contribute SOME amount rather than nothing? Like if the phase-out range starts at $218k and ends at $228k for married filing jointly, and you're somewhere in that range, you should be able to calculate the exact amount you can contribute. FreeTaxUSA should do this calculation for you.

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That's exactly what happened. OP said FreeTaxUSA calculated they could contribute $4000 each rather than the full $6500. So they're in the phase-out range, not completely over it. They contributed $4500 each, which is $500 over what's allowed at their income level.

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - if you're living abroad, you automatically get a 2-month extension on your filing deadline (June 15 instead of April 15). Also, US citizens abroad can request an additional extension to October 15. But these extensions only apply to filing - if you owe money, interest still accrues from the April deadline. Also, look into whether you need to file an FBAR (FinCEN Form 114) if you have foreign financial accounts that exceed $10,000 at any point during the calendar year. The penalties for not filing FBARs can be way worse than for regular tax returns!

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Payton Black

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Do you know if the FBAR requirement applies to joint accounts? I have access to my parent's account in their home country that definitely exceeds $10k but it's not technically my money.

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Yes, the FBAR requirement absolutely applies to joint accounts. If you have signature authority over a foreign account - even if the money isn't technically yours - you still need to report it if the total of all your foreign accounts exceeds $10,000 at any point in the year. This is a common oversight that can lead to serious penalties, so I'm glad you asked. The reporting is separate from your tax return and done electronically through FinCEN's BSA filing system. The good news is they have procedures for submitting late FBARs with explanations for reasonable cause to potentially reduce penalties.

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Harold Oh

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Anyone know which tax software is best for filing back taxes? I tried using TurboTax but it wants me to pay for each past year separately which gets expensive fast.

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Amun-Ra Azra

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FreeTaxUSA lets you file prior years for only $15 per federal return (state is extra). They have forms going back several years. You'll have to mail in the printed returns though - e-filing isn't available for prior years on most platforms.

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One thing to consider with an Offer in Compromise is that the IRS will file a Notice of Federal Tax Lien before processing your offer. If you're concerned about your credit, this is something to be aware of. Also, while your offer is being considered, the 10-year statute of limitations on collecting the debt is suspended. I went through this process last year. It took about 8 months from submission to acceptance. During that time, all collection activities stopped, which was a relief. My accepted offer was about 25% of what I owed, but I had to liquidate my retirement account to pay it (which hurt, but was worth it to be free of the debt). The most important advice I can give: document EVERYTHING and be 100% truthful. They will verify everything you report, and any discrepancies will get your offer rejected.

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Thanks for sharing your experience! Did you use a tax professional to help with your OIC or did you handle it yourself? I'm trying to gauge how complicated the process really is.

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I started doing it myself but quickly realized I was in over my head. The forms themselves aren't terribly complex, but understanding what the IRS will allow for expenses and how to present your financial situation in the most accurate but favorable light is where professional help made a difference. I used an Enrolled Agent who specialized in tax resolution. Cost me about $2,500, but considering they helped me get an offer accepted that saved me over $40,000, it was money well spent. The EA knew exactly which expenses would be questioned and made sure I had documentation ready. They also helped me respond when the IRS came back with questions, which they inevitably did.

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Caden Turner

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Something nobody's mentioned yet - if your OIC is accepted, you'll be on a compliance monitoring period for 5 years. During this time, you must file all required tax returns and pay all taxes on time. If you don't, the IRS can revoke the offer and reinstate the original debt minus whatever you paid. Also, any tax refunds you would receive during the calendar year that your offer is accepted will be kept by the IRS and applied toward your debt. This is in addition to whatever settlement amount you agree to pay.

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Is that 5-year monitoring period standard for everyone? That seems like a really long time to be under the microscope.

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