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Just to add another perspective - you might want to consider whether you actually WANT to withhold exactly the right amount. My spouse and I are in a similar income bracket (about $800k combined) and we actually prefer to slightly underwithhold and make quarterly estimated tax payments instead. The advantage is we keep control of that money throughout the year rather than giving the government an interest-free loan. We put the money that would have been withheld into a high-yield account, and then make the required quarterly payments to avoid penalties. As long as you pay in at least 100% of your previous year's tax liability through withholding and estimated payments (or 110% if your AGI was over $150k), you won't face any underpayment penalties.
That's an interesting approach I hadn't considered! About how much do you typically underwithhold? And do you just make equal quarterly payments, or is there some calculation involved? I'm intrigued by the idea of having more control over our money throughout the year.
We typically underwithhold by about 15% of our total expected tax liability. For someone in your situation, that might mean underwithholding by around $30,000 total for the year, or $2,500 monthly that stays in your accounts instead of going to the IRS. The quarterly payments don't have to be equal if your income fluctuates, but we keep it simple and just divide our expected shortfall by 4. The payment due dates are April 15, June 15, September 15, and January 15 of the following year. You can make them online at the IRS website using Direct Pay or EFTPS. Just make sure you're meeting that safe harbor of 110% of your previous year's tax liability (since you're over the $150k AGI threshold). That's the easiest way to guarantee no penalties regardless of this year's actual liability.
Has anyone used the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator for this situation? I tried using it but felt like I was still guessing at some of the inputs. Our income is close to OP's and we have the same problem every year!
I use it all the time and find it really accurate, but it's crucial that you include ALL income sources, not just your W-2 jobs. Make sure you're entering things like investment income, rental properties, etc. The other key is to update it quarterly since your situation might change throughout the year.
Have you looked into a disclaimer? In some cases, you can execute a qualified disclaimer of inheritance, which essentially says "I don't want this money" and it passes to the next eligible recipient. This has to be done within 9 months of death, and you can't have "accepted" the benefit (which might be an issue if you've already rolled it into your 401K). If the rollover is recent, talk to the plan administrator about possibly unwinding it, then execute a disclaimer. This might allow the money to go directly to her brother without passing through you.
I think I've already missed that window since it's been about 11 months since her passing, and as you mentioned, I've already completed the rollover into my 401K. I feel like I should have researched this better before making the initial decision, but I was dealing with a lot emotionally and just followed what the HR person at her company suggested.
That's understandable - these decisions often need to be made during difficult emotional times. Since the disclaimer option is no longer available, your best approach now is probably a combination strategy: First, designate her brother as the beneficiary for that portion of your 401K, ensuring he'll receive it if something happens to you. Then, work out a yearly gifting strategy once you're eligible for qualified distributions without penalties. You might also consult with an attorney about creating a simple agreement documenting your intentions, which could help clarify things for your own estate planning. Don't be too hard on yourself - you're trying to do the right thing in a system that doesn't make it easy.
Check if your 401K plan allows for hardship withdrawals or loans. You could potentially take a loan from your 401K (typically up to 50% of the balance or $50,000, whichever is less), then use those funds to gift to the brother without the early withdrawal penalty. You'd have to repay the loan with interest, but the interest goes back into your account so you're essentially paying yourself.
This is actually not great advice. 401K loans become immediately due if you leave your job, and since OP is living overseas, that could be risky. Plus, if you can't repay the loan, it becomes a distribution with all the taxes and penalties. The gift tax concerns would still apply too.
Have you looked into Wave Receipts? It's free and does a decent job for basic receipt tracking. I've been using it for my Etsy business for about a year. Not super fancy but gets the job done if you don't need all the bells and whistles.
Yes, you can export expense reports as PDFs or spreadsheets that work well for tax filing. The reports show all the transaction details and categories that match up with Schedule C. You can also generate specific date range reports, like quarterly or annual. The only limitation I've found is that the automatic categorization isn't always perfect, so I do have to go in and correct some entries occasionally. But for a free tool, it's pretty solid and has saved me tons of time compared to my old method of manually tracking everything in spreadsheets.
Whatever app you choose, make sure it backs up your data! I used a receipt app last year (can't remember the name) and it crashed/reset, losing 3 months of receipts. My tax preparer was NOT happy and I probably missed out on like $2k in deductions. Now I use one that syncs to my cloud storage automatically.
Just to add another data point - I went through this exact situation last year. Owed about $5,800 and set up an installment plan with zero issues. The confusion might be about the different TYPES of installment plans. For amounts under $10,000, you qualify for a "guaranteed" installment agreement which is actually easier to get than plans for higher amounts. For amounts over $10K but under $50K, there's a "streamlined" installment plan which requires a bit more information but is still pretty straightforward. The agent your cousin spoke to might have been referring to some other program, or maybe was talking about an "offer in compromise" which is totally different - that's when you negotiate to pay less than the full amount owed.
Do you remember what the monthly payment amount was for your $5,800 balance? I'm trying to figure out if they let you choose how much to pay each month or if they assign an amount.
You generally can choose your monthly payment amount as long as the debt will be paid off within the required timeframe. For amounts under $10,000, that timeframe is 3 years (36 months). So in my case, the minimum payment would have been about $161 per month not including interest and penalties. I actually opted to pay $200 per month to account for the ongoing interest and penalties and to clear the debt faster. They let me choose this amount during the application process. I set up direct debit from my checking account to avoid having to remember to make the payments and to get the lowest setup fee.
One important thing to note - if your cousin owes for the 2023 tax year and hasn't filed yet, he should still file by the deadline even if he can't pay everything! The failure-to-file penalty is much worse than the failure-to-pay penalty. Also, I'd recommend having him call back and speak to a different agent, or trying the online payment agreement system at irs.gov directly. The online system is actually pretty easy to use for amounts under $10K.
Completely agree about filing on time! The failure-to-file penalty is 5% of the unpaid taxes for each month your return is late, up to 25%. The failure-to-pay penalty is much lower at 0.5% per month.
Thank you for pointing this out! He did file on time, he just couldn't pay the full amount at once. I'll definitely suggest he try the online system since that seems to be the consensus here - much easier than trying to call again.
Matthew Sanchez
Just to add another perspective - my wife and I were in almost the identical situation with my wife's younger cousin who lived with us throughout college. We provided housing, food, utilities, etc. while she was responsible for her own tuition (through loans) and personal expenses. We claimed her as a qualifying relative for two years with no issues. The key factors were: 1) She lived with us for more than half the year (college housing counted as temporary absence), 2) We provided more than half her total support, 3) Her income was under the threshold, and 4) Her parents weren't claiming her. Make sure you document everything though! Keep receipts for major expenses, utility bills showing your address as her residence, maybe even a written statement from her confirming the living arrangement. We didn't need any of this documentation, but better safe than sorry.
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Oscar Murphy
ā¢This is really helpful! How did you calculate the value of housing and food to determine that you provided more than half her support? I'm trying to figure out how to quantify that properly.
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Matthew Sanchez
ā¢For housing, I used the fair rental value of the room she stayed in (looked at comparable rooms for rent in our area) plus a percentage of utilities based on our household size. For food, I tracked grocery expenses for a couple months and calculated her portion based on that. I also included car insurance since we added her to our policy, cell phone costs since she was on our family plan, and medical expenses we covered. For her part of the support equation, I included her earnings from her part-time job, scholarships that covered room and board (not tuition), and any other financial help she received. The IRS has a worksheet in Publication 501 that helps with this calculation. The key is being able to show that your contribution exceeded 50% of her total support from all sources. In our case, the housing value alone was significant enough to clearly demonstrate we provided most of her support.
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Ella Thompson
Has anyone used TurboTax to claim a non-relative dependent? I'm tryin to do this exact thing but the software keeps asking for a relationship and none of the options fit. Do I just pick "other dependent"??
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JacksonHarris
ā¢On TurboTax you should select "Other" when it asks for the relationship. Then when it asks if this person lived with you all year, select "Yes" (assuming they did, or if they were away at college but your home was their main residence). There's also a section where it will ask you to verify that you provided more than half their support.
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