IRS

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If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


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Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


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Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
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  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Yuki Ito

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Just to add another data point - I went through this exact situation last year. Owed about $5,800 and set up an installment plan with zero issues. The confusion might be about the different TYPES of installment plans. For amounts under $10,000, you qualify for a "guaranteed" installment agreement which is actually easier to get than plans for higher amounts. For amounts over $10K but under $50K, there's a "streamlined" installment plan which requires a bit more information but is still pretty straightforward. The agent your cousin spoke to might have been referring to some other program, or maybe was talking about an "offer in compromise" which is totally different - that's when you negotiate to pay less than the full amount owed.

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Carmen Lopez

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Do you remember what the monthly payment amount was for your $5,800 balance? I'm trying to figure out if they let you choose how much to pay each month or if they assign an amount.

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Yuki Ito

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You generally can choose your monthly payment amount as long as the debt will be paid off within the required timeframe. For amounts under $10,000, that timeframe is 3 years (36 months). So in my case, the minimum payment would have been about $161 per month not including interest and penalties. I actually opted to pay $200 per month to account for the ongoing interest and penalties and to clear the debt faster. They let me choose this amount during the application process. I set up direct debit from my checking account to avoid having to remember to make the payments and to get the lowest setup fee.

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Andre Dupont

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One important thing to note - if your cousin owes for the 2023 tax year and hasn't filed yet, he should still file by the deadline even if he can't pay everything! The failure-to-file penalty is much worse than the failure-to-pay penalty. Also, I'd recommend having him call back and speak to a different agent, or trying the online payment agreement system at irs.gov directly. The online system is actually pretty easy to use for amounts under $10K.

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Completely agree about filing on time! The failure-to-file penalty is 5% of the unpaid taxes for each month your return is late, up to 25%. The failure-to-pay penalty is much lower at 0.5% per month.

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Zara Rashid

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Thank you for pointing this out! He did file on time, he just couldn't pay the full amount at once. I'll definitely suggest he try the online system since that seems to be the consensus here - much easier than trying to call again.

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Cass Green

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Just FYI - 849 is not actually an IRS transaction code that appears on transcripts. The standard IRS transaction codes run from 000-899 but there is no 849. The common refund-related codes are: - 570: Additional account action pending - 571: Resolved account action - 846: Refund issued - 420: Examination/audit indicator - 971: Notice issued You might be looking at a different number, maybe on the WMR tool rather than your actual transcript. I'd recommend downloading your actual account transcript from the IRS website to see what's really happening.

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Myles Regis

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Omg you're right! I just double-checked my transcript and it's actually a 769 code, not 849. I totally misread it. Now I'm even more confused what that means. Is that better or worse than what I thought?

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Cass Green

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A 769 code typically indicates an earned income credit (EIC) claim on your return. This is just informational and shows the IRS has processed that part of your return. It's neither better nor worse than what you thought - it's just tracking different aspects of your return processing. What you should be looking for is either a 570 code (which would indicate a temporary hold) or an 846 code (which means your refund has been approved and issued). The 769 by itself just acknowledges your EIC claim was received and being processed. If you don't see a 570, that's actually good news - it means there's no specific hold on your account.

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Has anyone tried calling the Tax Advocate Service instead of the regular IRS number? I had a similar issue last year with a delayed refund and they were able to help me figure out what was happening when the regular IRS agents couldn't. Their number is 1-877-777-4778.

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Tax Advocate Service is only accepting cases with real hardships now - like you're about to be evicted or have utilities shut off. They won't help with just checking refund status. They're super backlogged and turned me away when I called last week about my delayed refund.

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Harper Hill

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4 You might want to look into claiming this as a business bad debt on Form 8949. I'm not an accountant, but I had to write off some unpaid invoices a couple years ago. The key distinction is whether you provided services (which it sounds like you did) or if you loaned money. Different rules apply to each situation.

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Harper Hill

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12 Thanks for the suggestion! Would I need any special documentation to prove I actually tried to collect the debt? I have the original contract, all my invoices, and email threads showing I tried to get paid multiple times.

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Harper Hill

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4 Yes, documentation is critical. Keep your original contract, all invoices sent, and especially any communications showing you attempted to collect payment. Also document how you determined the company was bankrupt and the debt uncollectible - like news articles about their shutdown, bankruptcy filings, or bounced emails to company addresses. Form 8949 is typically used for capital losses, but business bad debts can sometimes be reported as short-term capital losses. However, this really depends on your specific situation and whether you're using cash or accrual accounting.

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Harper Hill

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16 Wait, wouldn't this qualify as a 1099 situation? If they paid you $7,200, they should have sent you a 1099-NEC if it was over $600. Did you receive that form? Cause that affects how you report this whole thing.

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Harper Hill

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3 Good point! They definitely should have issued a 1099-NEC for payments over $600. If they didn't, you should still report the income you actually received, but that missing 1099 might be another sign the company wasn't following proper business practices.

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Nia Wilson

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Don't forget about state taxes! Your K-1 loss will likely reduce your state taxable income too. Depending on your state's tax rate, this could add another significant savings on top of the federal tax reduction. In my case (California), my tiny partnership loss was actually worth more on my state return than federal because of our high state rates. Also, if you do any business travel related to checking on the property or meeting with your brother about business decisions, keep track of those expenses. They can be deductible as partnership expenses on next year's K-1 if properly documented.

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Great point about state taxes. Do K-1 losses always work the same way for state taxes as they do for federal? I'm in Virginia and sometimes our state rules are different than federal.

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Nia Wilson

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State tax treatment generally follows federal rules, but there can definitely be differences. Virginia typically conforms to federal tax law for pass-through entities like partnerships, so your K-1 loss should flow through to your state return similarly. However, some states have their own limitations or adjustments for passive losses. The best approach is to check your specific state's tax department website or consult with a tax professional familiar with your state. Even with potential variations, in most cases you'll still see some benefit at the state level from reporting your K-1 loss.

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I made a huge mistake with my K-1 losses two years ago! I didn't think it was "worth the hassle" so I just ignored it. Got a lovely CP2000 notice from the IRS saying I owed penalties and interest because they had received the partnership return showing my tax ID but I never reported it on my personal return. Even if the loss doesn't save you much in taxes, you HAVE to report it. The IRS computers automatically match K-1s to your SSN/TIN. When they see a K-1 was issued to you but not reported, it triggers a mismatch that will eventually get flagged for review.

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Ethan Clark

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How much was the penalty? I'm wondering because I might have done the same thing last year... thought my K-1 loss was so small it wouldn't matter 😬

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Payton Black

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5 Just FYI - if your broker doesn't have your cost basis info (like if you transferred securities from another broker or have older holdings), your 1099-B might show the proceeds but have blank or "UNKNOWN" cost basis fields. You'll need to track down that info yourself from old statements or your records. Made this mistake my first year and ended up amending my return which was a whole other headache! Make sure you review your 1099-B carefully before filing.

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Payton Black

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1 That's good to know! If my cost basis is missing, can I just use the price I remember paying or do I need actual documentation?

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Payton Black

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5 You really need documentation to support your cost basis if it's missing from your 1099-B. The IRS can question unsupported numbers during an audit. If you absolutely can't find records, you should make a good faith effort to reconstruct the cost basis using historical price data from when you purchased the securities. Some brokerages have historical price lookup tools, or you can use financial websites that show historical prices. Just make sure to keep notes on how you determined each cost basis amount in case you need to explain your methodology later. Documenting your research process shows you made a reasonable effort to comply with tax requirements.

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Payton Black

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9 Another important thing to know - if you made less than $10 in stock trading profits, you still have to report it! I thought there was some minimum threshold but got flagged by the IRS my first year because I ignored a tiny gain. The 1099-B reporting requirement doesn't have a minimum amount.

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Payton Black

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12 Really? That seems excessive. What about losses? Can those offset other income or do they only offset capital gains?

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