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For anyone looking to file prior year returns, make sure you're using the correct forms for that specific tax year! The IRS changes forms slightly every year, and you MUST use the forms for the specific tax year you're filing. You can find prior year forms on the IRS website: https://www.irs.gov/forms-pubs/prior-year Also, remember that you CANNOT e-file prior year returns. You must print them out and mail them in. Make sure to send them to the correct IRS address for prior year returns (it's different from the regular address), and I strongly recommend sending them certified mail so you have proof of when they were delivered.
Is there a deadline for the IRS to process prior year returns and issue refunds? I filed my 2021 return about 2 months ago and haven't heard anything.
The IRS doesn't have a specific deadline for processing prior year returns, but they typically take longer than current year returns. Prior year returns are usually processed manually rather than through their automated systems, which adds to the processing time. Generally, you can expect a processing time of 6-12 weeks for paper returns, but for prior year returns, it can sometimes take 16 weeks or more. If it's been more than 16 weeks since you submitted your return, you can call the IRS or use their "Where's My Refund" tool, though that tool sometimes doesn't work well for prior year returns.
Just a heads up, the child tax credit amount for 2021 was different depending on the child's age. For kids under 6 (which would be your case since baby was born in 2020), it was up to $3,600. For kids 6-17, it was up to $3,000. But remember, the amount you get phases out based on your income. For 2021, the phase-out started at $75,000 for single filers and $150,000 for married filing jointly. Also, some people received advance payments of the credit during 2021. If you did get any of those monthly payments, you'd need to subtract that from the total credit amount when you file.
Actually I think there was a separate phaseout for the additional amount over $2,000. The original $2,000 CTC didn't start phasing out until $200k single/$400k married.
You're absolutely right, thanks for that correction! The 2021 Child Tax Credit had two different phase-out thresholds: The enhanced portion (the extra $1,600 for kids under 6 or $1,000 for kids 6-17) started phasing out at $75,000 for single filers and $150,000 for married filing jointly. The base $2,000 credit didn't start phasing out until $200,000 for single filers and $400,000 for married filing jointly. This was one of the more confusing aspects of the 2021 tax changes. Thanks for pointing that out!
One important thing nobody's mentioned - when you respond to the 886-A, make sure you keep copies of EVERYTHING you send to the IRS. I learned this the hard way when they claimed they never received my documentation during an audit last year. Also, if you're recalculating using the standard mileage method, make sure you have a mileage log that shows business vs. personal use. They often request this as follow-up if you don't provide it initially. Without a log, they might reject the standard mileage claim too.
Is it too late to create a mileage log now? I kept rough track in my calendar of my routes and deliveries but didn't have a formal "mileage log" per se. Can I recreate one from my notes?
You can reconstruct a reasonable mileage log from your existing notes and calendars. The IRS doesn't require a specific format - they just need to see evidence that you tracked business vs personal miles. Include dates, starting location, destination, purpose of trip, and mileage for each business drive. Be honest about reconstructing it from your notes - don't claim it's an original contemporaneous log if it isn't. Many small business owners have to reconstruct logs during audits, and the IRS understands this as long as you have some supporting documentation like your delivery schedules, client meetings, etc.
Has anyone actually calculated whether it's better to use standard mileage vs actual expenses for newspaper delivery? I'm curious because I do food delivery and always claimed mileage (about 19,000 miles last year) but never bothered to track my actual car expenses to compare.
For high-mileage, lower-cost vehicles, standard mileage rate usually wins. I've done both delivery and rideshare for years. When I tracked both methods side by side last year, standard mileage gave me a $9,850 deduction while actual expenses would have been around $7,200. But it totally depends on your vehicle and situation.
One thing nobody has mentioned yet - make sure you're also taking advantage of claiming "Head of Household" status since you're supporting your family as the sole income earner. It gives you a better tax rate and higher standard deduction than just married filing jointly.
That's not correct. You can't claim Head of Household if you're married (unless you're legally separated or meet very specific requirements). If he's married and living with his wife, Married Filing Jointly is the correct status, not Head of Household.
Oh shoot, you're right - I was mixing up the requirements. For some reason I was thinking Head of Household was for anyone supporting dependents, but you're correct that married couples living together can't use it. Thanks for the correction! Married Filing Jointly would indeed be the right status in this case.
Have you considered having your wife do some kind of small side gig that earns under $600 per year? If she does that, you could potentially contribute to a spousal IRA for her which might give you some additional tax benefits. Just an idea to optimize your tax situation further!
Actually, your spouse doesn't need earned income for you to contribute to a spousal IRA as long as you file jointly and have sufficient earned income yourself. It's one of the few exceptions to the "earned income" requirement for IRA contributions.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet - if your client is REALLY struggling financially, you might want to look into Currently Not Collectible (CNC) status before trying an OIC. If they genuinely can't afford to pay anything, the IRS might put their account into CNC status temporarily, which pauses collection activities. Interest and penalties still accrue, but it gives them breathing room to improve their financial situation. Then they could move to a payment plan or OIC later when they're more stable.
I've heard about CNC status but wasn't sure if it would apply in this case. Would the IRS consider CNC even if my client has consistent income? Their issue is more that the total amount is overwhelming rather than having no income at all.
CNC status is based on ability to pay after necessary living expenses, not just on having income. If your client's income is being consumed by reasonable living expenses with nothing left over, they could still qualify. The IRS uses their Collection Financial Standards to determine what counts as necessary expenses. Have your client document all their actual expenses - housing, utilities, food, healthcare, transportation, etc. If these legitimate expenses leave little to nothing for tax payments, they have a case for CNC status even with steady income. The IRS would rather put someone in CNC temporarily than force them into a payment plan they can't maintain.
Has anyone mentioned the 10-year statute of limitations? The IRS generally has 10 years from the date of assessment to collect taxes. So if your client is truly in dire financial straits and qualifies for Currently Not Collectible status as another commenter mentioned, some of that debt might eventually "age out" if they remain in hardship for years. Obviously this isn't a primary strategy to recommend, but it's something to be aware of when looking at the total picture.
Be careful with this advice! The 10-year clock doesn't start until the tax is assessed, which can't happen until the return is filed. For unfiled returns, the clock hasn't even started ticking yet. Plus, certain actions can extend that 10-year period, like requesting an installment agreement or filing bankruptcy.
Ruby Knight
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you file ALL missing returns at once. Don't file just the most recent year thinking you'll do the rest later. The IRS wants to see you completely back in compliance. Also, if you can pay even part of what you owe when you file, it shows good faith and can sometimes result in reduced penalties. I was in a similar situation (3 years unfiled) and managed to pay about 30% upfront, which helped tremendously with negotiating the rest.
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Ella rollingthunder87
ā¢Is there a statute of limitations on how far back they can come after you for unfiled taxes? I'm worried they'll want returns from like 10 years ago even though I wasn't making much money back then.
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Ruby Knight
ā¢The statute of limitations for the IRS to assess taxes is generally 3 years from the date you file your return. However - and this is important - there is NO statute of limitations on unfiled returns. The clock doesn't start until you actually file. For your situation, they typically focus on the last 6 years for unfiled returns, but technically they could go back further. That said, if you weren't making much money in those earlier years, it might not be worth their effort. My tax preparer advised me to focus on the last 6 years, but your situation might be different.
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Diego Castillo
Don't forget about state taxes too! Everyone's talking about the IRS, but your state tax authority might be even more aggressive about collection. Make sure you're addressing both federal AND state unfiled returns.
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Logan Stewart
ā¢This is so important. My brother dealt with the IRS fine on his back taxes but completely forgot about state taxes. California actually put a lien on his property before he even knew what was happening.
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