


Ask the community...
Just to address your question about being "doomed" - I was in a similar situation (7 years unfiled, owed about $180k). I finally got everything filed and worked with the IRS on a settlement. Ended up with an Offer in Compromise where I paid about 30% of what I owed. The key is to file EVERYTHING, be completely honest, and work with them on a solution. They have more flexibility than most people realize if you're genuinely trying to resolve the situation.
That's really encouraging to hear. How long did the whole process take for you from filing the back returns to getting the Offer in Compromise accepted?
The entire process took about 14 months from start to finish. The first part - gathering all my documentation and filing the back returns - took about 2 months. Then I submitted the Offer in Compromise application, which took another 2 months to prepare properly with all the required financial information. After submission, the IRS review process took about 10 months, including some back-and-forth with the assigned officer who was evaluating my case. There were a couple of requests for additional documentation during that time. It wasn't quick, but considering how much I saved in the end, it was absolutely worth the wait and effort. Just be prepared for a marathon, not a sprint.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned - if you do file all your back taxes at once, make sure you're sending them to the right IRS address. Different tax years might need to go to different places. I screwed this up and it caused months of delay in my case being processed.
For anyone still struggling with this H&R Block issue - here's a specific workaround I found last year: 1) Enter your first 1098-T completely 2) Instead of trying to add another 1098-T directly, go to the "Review" section 3) Look for "Education" in the review topics 4) There should be a "Add/Edit" button there 5) From that screen, you should see an "Add Another Institution" option H&R Block's interface is weirdly inconsistent about showing the "Add Another" button on the direct entry page, but it's always available through the Review section in my experience.
Thank you so much for these detailed steps! I couldn't find the option anywhere in the normal flow but your method worked perfectly. I was able to enter both my 1098-Ts and H&R Block calculated the correct amount for both American Opportunity Credit and Lifetime Learning Credit. Did you have any issues with the IRS questioning the multiple education credits when you filed? I'm a bit worried they might flag my return or something.
I didn't have any issues with the IRS questioning my return. As long as you have legitimate 1098-Ts from accredited institutions and you meet the eligibility requirements for the education credits, having multiple schools isn't a red flag by itself. Just make sure you're not double-counting any expenses or claiming the same type of credit twice if that's not allowed. The key thing is being clear about which expenses apply to which credit. If you're eligible for both the American Opportunity Credit and Lifetime Learning Credit, you might need to strategize which expenses to apply to each for maximum benefit.
Has anyone tried using the desktop version of H&R Block? I found the online version terrible for multiple 1098-Ts, but the downloadable software actually has a much clearer interface for adding multiple education institutions.
I can confirm this! I switched to the desktop version specifically because of this issue. The desktop software has a very clear "Add Another Institution" button right on the education screen. The online version hides this functionality for some reason.
I'm a bit late to this discussion but felt like I should share my experience. I've been dealing with stock investments for years and those AMT adjustments are confusing even for people who do understand stocks! The TY21 Sch D AMT ln 7 is referring to the Alternative Minimum Tax adjustment for capital gains/losses from a previous tax year that carries over. For most small investors, this is legitimately zero, so you might have accidentally put in the correct number anyway. The key thing to understand is that the IRS computer systems automatically match the 1099-B forms from your brokerage with what you report. If there's a significant discrepancy, you'll get a letter. But they're looking primarily at the current year transactions, not these carryover adjustments from previous years. In my experience, unless you're dealing with tens of thousands in stock transactions annually, these AMT adjustments rarely make a meaningful difference in your tax liability. The IRS focuses their enforcement resources on larger discrepancies.
So does this apply to crypto transactions too? I have a similar situation where I couldn't figure out some carryover basis amounts from previous years.
Crypto is actually handled differently in some ways. The IRS treats cryptocurrency as property rather than securities, so while you still report gains and losses, the AMT adjustments work differently. For crypto, accurate basis reporting is even more important because the IRS has been focusing enforcement in this area. If you can't determine your exact basis from previous years, you should try to make a good faith estimate based on transaction records. The Schedule D AMT carryovers would only apply if you had specific AMT adjustments in previous years related to your crypto trades.
Has anyone else noticed that tax software keeps getting more expensive but somehow WORSE at handling common situations? I paid TurboTax $120 this year (up from $89 last year) and they still couldn't properly import my stock information from the same broker I've used for 5 years!
Try FreeTaxUSA next year. I switched from TurboTax two years ago and never looked back. Only $15 for state filing and federal is completely free. They handled all my stock transactions perfectly, including those weird AMT adjustments.
11 Don't just look at the refund amount when deciding how to file! A bigger refund might just mean you overpaid taxes throughout the year. What you really want is the lowest total tax liability. My wife and I had a baby last year, and we compared all three options with similar incomes to yours. Filing jointly saved us about $3,200 in total tax compared to filing separately. The tax brackets are wider for joint filers, plus you get a larger standard deduction ($27,700 vs $13,850 each). If you're eligible for the Earned Income Credit with your income levels, you can only get that when filing jointly. Same goes for the full Child Tax Credit and Child and Dependent Care Credit.
22 That's a great point I hadn't considered. So even if I get a smaller refund filing jointly, I might still be paying less taxes overall?
11 Exactly! The refund is just the difference between what you already paid throughout the year and your final tax bill. A smaller refund with a lower total tax bill is better than a bigger refund where you paid more tax overall. For example, if you paid $15,000 in taxes throughout the year and your actual tax bill is $13,000, you'd get a $2,000 refund. But if you paid $10,000 throughout the year and your tax bill is $9,000, you'd only get a $1,000 refund - but you'd have paid $4,000 less in taxes overall ($9,000 vs $13,000)!
19 Just want to add one thing nobody's mentioned - if either of you received advance Child Tax Credit payments last year, that will affect your refund. We had a similar situation with our first baby and were surprised when our refund was smaller than expected because of the advance payments. Also check if you qualify for the Additional Child Tax Credit if the regular Child Tax Credit reduces your tax liability to zero. And don't forget to look into the Child and Dependent Care Credit if you paid for childcare!
14 Do the advance Child Tax Credit payments still exist? I thought those were just a COVID thing and they stopped doing them in 2022?
Lena Kowalski
Hey, payroll specialist here. Your withholding issue might be simpler than you think. Check your pay stubs to see if they show "Exempt" anywhere on the tax withholding section. Sometimes when people say they've set withholdings to "zero," they've actually checked the exempt box on their W-4, which means NO federal taxes are withheld at all. Also, the W-4 changed in 2020 like someone mentioned above. So "claiming zero" isn't really a thing anymore. You need to make sure you're using the new form which has completely different fields. One other thing to check - some smaller companies' payroll systems calculate withholding on a per-paycheck basis rather than annualizing your income. This can lead to underwithholding if your pay fluctuates at all during the year (bonuses, overtime, etc).
0 coins
Daryl Bright
ā¢Just double checked my pay stub and it definitely doesn't say "Exempt" anywhere. It shows they're withholding about $360 per paycheck for federal taxes. Our payroll is handled through ADP, so I assume they're using updated withholding tables? But maybe not. Would it be weird to directly ask my HR person if they're annualizing my income for withholding purposes?
0 coins
Lena Kowalski
ā¢Not weird at all to ask HR about the withholding calculation method. That's a perfectly reasonable question. Just frame it as "I'm trying to understand why I keep owing at tax time despite having taxes withheld." ADP should be using current tables, but the issue might be how your specific company has configured their ADP settings. Some companies, especially smaller ones, don't always update their payroll configurations when tax laws change. Ideally, they should be using the aggregate method of withholding which considers your annual income rather than just calculating each paycheck in isolation.
0 coins
DeShawn Washington
Has anyone tried just increasing their withholding by a set amount instead of trying to get the W-4 perfect? I got tired of owing every year so I just put an extra $100 per paycheck on line 4(c). Now I get a small refund each year and don't have to stress about it.
0 coins
Mei-Ling Chen
ā¢This is honestly the easiest solution. The withholding system is never going to be 100% accurate for everyone. I'd rather get a small refund than owe money. I do $75 extra per paycheck and it works perfectly for me.
0 coins
Daryl Bright
ā¢That's probably what I'll end up doing. I'd rather get a small refund than deal with this stress every year. Based on what others have said, sounds like I need about $130 extra per paycheck. I'll just round up to $150 to be safe. Thanks everyone for all the advice! Going to fill out a new W-4 tomorrow and talk to HR about making sure they're using updated withholding calculations.
0 coins