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Just a heads up - the 1098-T that schools send out goes to the IRS too, so they'll know if you received one and didn't report it. My cousin tried skipping his a few years back and got a letter from the IRS about 6 months later asking why the information didn't match their records. It turned into a huge hassle with him having to file an amended return. The penalty wasn't huge but the stress and paperwork definitely wasn't worth it. Just include it even if you think you won't get much back.
Did your cousin actually get penalized financially or just had to correct his taxes? I'm still on the fence about how much effort I want to put into this for potentially just a few bucks back.
He had to pay a small accuracy-related penalty of about $50 plus interest on the additional tax he ended up owing after properly reporting everything. The bigger pain was having to go through the amended return process which took months to resolve. The thing is, you might be leaving more money on the table than you realize. When properly claimed, education credits can be worth up to $2,500 for the American Opportunity Credit. Even if you only got $69 last year, it's worth double-checking if you entered everything correctly before deciding it's not worth the effort.
A tip from someone who processes financial aid: Make sure you're differentiating between loans and grants correctly on your taxes. Grants that exceed your qualified education expenses (tuition, fees, books) may actually be taxable income, while loans aren't taxable but can count toward education credits. For the American Opportunity Credit specifically, there's a specific order of operations that determines how much you can claim. If your grants covered everything, you might not qualify for much. But if loans paid for even part of it, you could be eligible.
Do you have any tips for figuring out if grants were used for qualified expenses vs living expenses? My 1098-T just shows the total amount billed and total scholarships/grants, but doesnt break down what was used for what.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you're filing your state taxes too! I caught up on my federal taxes a few years ago but completely forgot about state taxes. Ended up with a nasty surprise from my state tax authority a year later. Also, if you had any significant life changes during those unfiled years (marriage, kids, buying property, etc.), you might qualify for credits or deductions you're not aware of. This is where a tax professional can really save you money.
Oh geez, I didn't even think about state taxes! I moved from California to Texas during this period, so I guess I'll need to file a partial year return for California? This is getting complicated fast.
Yes, you'll need to file a part-year resident return for California covering the period you lived there. The good news is that Texas doesn't have state income tax, so you won't need to file there. California is particularly aggressive about collecting taxes, so definitely prioritize getting that part-year return filed. They'll want to see exactly when you established residency in Texas. Keep any documentation showing your move date (lease agreements, utility setup, driver's license change, etc.).
Jst wanted to share my experience - I didn't file for 4 yrs bc of depression after my mom died. When I finally did my taxes, I was actually OWED money for 3 of those years!! But I could only get refunds for 3 yrs back, so I lost a whole year of refund money (like $1200) bc I waited too long. so moral of story: file ASAP!! If u might be getting refunds don't wait or u lose that $$$
Quick tip for the OP: If you use tax software like TurboTax or H&R Block throughout the year (not just at tax time), they have estimated tax calculators built in that can help you figure out your payments. You can enter your stock sale info and they'll tell you how much to pay each quarter. Also, don't forget state estimated taxes if your state has income tax! Those are often due on the same dates as federal but not always.
Thanks for the tip! I do use H&R Block usually, but I never thought about using it mid-year. Do I need to buy the current tax year version now or can I use last year's until the new version comes out?
You'll need the current year version, but you don't have to pay for it yet. H&R Block and most other tax software companies let you create an account and start entering information for free. You only pay when you actually file. So you can use their calculators and worksheets now to estimate your quarterly payments without paying for the full software. Just make sure you're using the 2025 version (for taxes you'll file in 2026), not the 2024 version that was for filing this past April.
Does anybody know if there's like a minimum amount you need to make before you have to do these quarterly payments? I sold some crypto and made like $2,200 profit but not sure if I need to worry about this quarterly stuff.
Yes, there is a threshold. Generally, you need to make quarterly estimated tax payments if you expect to owe at least $1,000 in tax for the year after subtracting withholdings and credits, AND your withholding and credits will cover less than 90% of your current year tax or 100% of your prior year tax. For $2,200 in crypto gains, it depends on your overall tax situation. If you have a regular job with withholding that covers most of your tax liability, you might not need to make estimated payments for this relatively small amount.
I'm a bit confused by your situation. Are you itemizing deductions? If you're taking the standard deduction (which most people do after the tax law changes a few years ago), then the charitable donation won't actually impact your taxes anyway. For 2023 the standard deduction is $13,850 for single filers and $27,700 for married filing jointly. Unless your total itemized deductions (mortgage interest, state/local taxes up to $10k, charitable donations, etc.) exceed those amounts, you won't get any tax benefit from the car donation regardless of the value.
That's a really good point I hadn't considered. I've been so focused on figuring out the right donation value that I didn't step back to look at the bigger picture. I'm single and definitely won't have anywhere near $13,850 in itemized deductions. So you're saying this whole thing is basically moot for me since I'll be taking the standard deduction anyway? Ugh, I've spent hours researching this for nothing!
Yes, that's exactly right. Many people get caught up in the details of specific deductions without considering whether they'll actually itemize at all. The 2017 tax law changes nearly doubled the standard deduction while eliminating or limiting many itemized deductions, so now only about 11% of taxpayers itemize. However, your research wasn't entirely wasted! This knowledge will be helpful for future tax planning. If you know you'll be close to the itemization threshold in a particular year, you might strategically bunch charitable donations into that year to exceed the standard deduction amount and get tax benefit from them.
Quick tip since nobody mentioned it - check if your state tax return allows charitable deductions even if you take the standard deduction on your federal return! Some states have different rules and you might still get some benefit on your state taxes.
Makayla Shoemaker
Just want to add that the CARES Act also gave the option to spread the income (not the penalty, but the actual distribution income) over 3 years on your tax returns, even if you didn't recontribute. So your cousin might have elected to report 1/3 of the distribution on his 2020, 2021, and 2022 returns. If he did that, he might want to consider the tax implications before recontributing the full amount.
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Paige Cantoni
β’That's a good point I hadn't considered. Do you know if he would need to amend all three years of returns if he decides to recontribute now? Or is there a simpler process?
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Makayla Shoemaker
β’Yes, he would need to file amended returns for any tax year where he reported income from the distribution. So if he reported 1/3 of it on his 2020, 2021, and 2022 returns, he would need to file amended returns for all three years to get back the taxes he paid on those amounts. There's no shortcut process unfortunately - each year needs its own amended return. The sooner he does it the better, especially for 2020, since the time limit for amendments is approaching. One strategy some people use is to only recontribute the amount necessary to avoid being pushed into a higher tax bracket for those years.
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Christian Bierman
My tax preparer told me that for 2020 specifically, you actually needed to designate on your tax return that the distribution was COVID-related by filing Form 8915-E. Did your cousin do that when he filed his 2020 taxes? If not, he might need to amend his 2020 return first before he can take advantage of the penalty waiver or recontribution options.
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Emma Olsen
β’This is correct. I worked at H&R Block that year, and Form 8915-E was specifically for reporting coronavirus-related distributions. Without that form being filed, the IRS would have processed the distribution as a regular early withdrawal subject to the 10% penalty.
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