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Have you tried using the override function in TurboTax? I had a similar issue last year, and there's a way to tell the software to ignore certain validation warnings if you're confident your information is correct. Look for an option like "I'm sure my information is correct, continue anyway" or something similar on the error screen. Sometimes it's hidden behind a "more options" button. This worked for me when I had a situation where my state withholding was calculated differently than federal.
Where exactly is this override option? I'm staring at the error screen right now and don't see anything like that. Is it only in certain versions of TurboTax?
It's not always obvious - look for small text links near the bottom of the error message that say something like "I want to continue anyway" or "Override this warning." Sometimes you have to click on "Why am I seeing this?" first, and then the override option appears. If you're using the downloadable version, it might be under "Tools" ā "Options" ā "Error checking" where you can adjust the sensitivity level. For the online version, sometimes you need to click on a "More options" or "What should I do?" link that expands additional choices.
Before you go crazy with workarounds, double check if you accidentally duplicated some income on your state return that's not on your federal. I made this exact mistake - entered my W-2 income twice on my California return but only once on federal. Drove me nuts for days until I spotted it!
This!! I had the same issue. Check if you accidentally entered a 1099 or W-2 twice in the state section. TurboTax's interface makes this so easy to do by accident.
Don't forget about estimated tax payments for next year! With income this high, you need to be making quarterly payments or you'll get hit with underpayment penalties. My business income jumped dramatically in 2023 and I got slapped with almost $4,000 in penalties because I didn't realize this. The IRS expects you to pay as you earn, not just at tax time.
This is actually really helpful - I had no idea about the quarterly thing. How do I figure out how much to pay each quarter if my income isn't consistent? My construction projects vary a lot month to month.
You have a couple of options for calculating your estimated payments. The safest method is paying 100% of your previous year's tax (or 110% if your income was over $150,000). This gives you a "safe harbor" from penalties even if you end up owing more. If your income fluctuates, you can use the "annualized income installment method" using Form 2210. This lets you make payments based on what you actually earned in each period rather than 25% each quarter. Most construction businesses have seasonal fluctuations, so this might work better for you. A good tax software or accountant can help you run these calculations.
Honestly at your income level, you should be talking to a tax ATTORNEY, not just a CPA. They can help you set up more advanced strategies like captive insurance companies, cost segregation studies if you buy commercial property, or even set up a management company with a defined benefit plan. These are all legit strategies but they need professional setup. I learned this the hard way after DIYing my taxes when my business hit 7 figures.
Completely agree - especially for construction. My brother's construction company got hammered in an audit because they hadn't structured things correctly. Not worth the risk when you're dealing with this kind of money. A good tax attorney will save you way more than they cost.
Everyone's talking about the Offer in Compromise, but don't forget about Currently Not Collectible status! If your boyfriend's finances are really tight right now, he might qualify to have his account temporarily placed in CNC status. The debt doesn't go away, but collections stop while he gets back on his feet. The IRS form is 433-F for individuals, and you basically need to show that after necessary living expenses, there's no money left to pay the tax debt. The benefit is immediate relief from collection activity, and sometimes the collection statute expires before they reassess your situation.
How long does Currently Not Collectible status typically last? Will interest and penalties continue to add up during that time?
Currently Not Collectible status doesn't have a fixed duration - it lasts until your financial situation improves. The IRS will periodically review your case, typically every 1-2 years, to see if your income has increased enough to resume payments. Some people remain in CNC status for many years if their financial hardship continues. Yes, unfortunately, interest and penalties do continue to accrue while you're in CNC status. The debt isn't forgiven - collection activity is just paused. However, there's an important benefit: the 10-year statute of limitations on collecting the tax debt continues to run during this time. So if your boyfriend's financial situation doesn't improve significantly for several years, some or all of the debt might expire before the IRS can collect it.
One thing nobody has mentioned is that your boyfriend should determine if he was misclassified as a 1099 contractor when he should have been an employee (W-2). If he was on the road 90% of the time doing work the company directed, used their equipment, followed their schedule, etc., he might have been misclassified. This is actually super common and if he was misclassified, he could file Form SS-8 for the IRS to make a determination. If they rule he should have been an employee, he'd only be responsible for the employee portion of FICA taxes (7.65%) instead of the full self-employment tax (15.3%). This could reduce his tax debt substantially!
This is really good advice. The IRS takes worker misclassification seriously. I had a "contractor" job years ago where I was clearly an employee - set hours, company equipment, direct supervision. Filed SS-8 and got about half my tax bill wiped out!
Don't forget about vehicle expenses if you use your car for business! You can either track actual expenses (gas, maintenance, etc.) and multiply by the percentage of business use, OR use the standard mileage rate (65.5 cents per mile for 2025). Just make sure to keep a detailed mileage log with dates, destinations, and business purpose!
Do you need to track every single trip? Like what if I sometimes stop at the office supply store on my way home from something else? That seems like a lot of record keeping.
You should track every business trip to maximize your deduction and protect yourself in case of an audit. For mixed-purpose trips like stopping at an office supply store on your way home, you can deduct the extra mileage if the stop was necessary for business. Apps like MileIQ or Everlance make tracking much easier - they run in the background on your phone and let you swipe trips as business or personal. The few seconds it takes to log each trip can save you hundreds or thousands in deductions. I learned this the hard way after missing out on substantial deductions my first year because my records weren't detailed enough.
Has anybody used QuickBooks Self-Employed for tracking business expenses? Is it worth the $15/month or whatever they charge now? I'm drowning in receipts and need a better system.
I've used it for about 2 years for my consulting business. The automatic transaction categorization and receipt scanning saves me tons of time. The mileage tracker alone is worth it. And it makes tax time way less stressful - it generates reports for Schedule C that you can just hand to your accountant or transfer to TurboTax. Definitely worth the cost for the headaches it prevents.
Vince Eh
Make sure you keep copies of EVERYTHING you send to the IRS! I went through a similar situation with a filing status issue a couple years ago. I sent in all my documentation and then they claimed they never received it. Had to send it all in again and it delayed my refund by another 3 months. Also, when you mail your response, use certified mail with return receipt so you have proof they received it. Trust me on this one.
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Avery Davis
ā¢That's really good advice. I'm definitely going to make copies of everything. Do you know if I should be including my original tax returns with the response or just the supporting documentation for the head of household status?
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Vince Eh
ā¢Just include the supporting documentation for Head of Household status, not your entire original returns. The IRS already has your returns in their system. Focus on providing proof that you provided more than half the support for your mom and sister and that they lived with you. Include a copy of the notice they sent you with your response. Write your Social Security number on every page you send them. And definitely use certified mail with return receipt - that saved me when they tried claiming they never received my documents.
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Sophia Gabriel
Just curious - when you amended your return, did you file Form 1040X? And did you check the Head of Household box on line 4 of that form? That's where a lot of people make mistakes with amended returns.
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Avery Davis
ā¢Yes, I filed Form 1040X for the amendment, but looking back at my copy, I see I checked the "Single" box on line 4 again. I was so focused on adding the dependents and credits that I completely missed changing the filing status. Rookie mistake I guess.
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Sophia Gabriel
ā¢That explains exactly what happened then. When you amend a return, you need to check the correct filing status for your situation on Form 1040X, even if you're not changing your filing status from the original return. Since you were adding dependents, you should have updated to Head of Household. The good news is this is fixable. As others have mentioned, respond to the notice with proof that you qualified for Head of Household (provided more than half support, they lived with you more than half the year). The IRS will recalculate your taxes based on the correct filing status.
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