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My experience has been totally different. Filed electronically on February 3rd and still nothing as of today (March 15). The Where's My Refund tool just says "still processing" and gives me no additional info. This happens to me EVERY. SINGLE. YEAR. My husband always gets his super fast (separate filing) but mine always takes forever. So frustrating!!
Did you claim any tax credits like earned income or child tax credit? Those automatically delay processing until at least mid-February because of the PATH Act.
No tax credits like that. Just a standard return with a W-2 and mortgage interest deduction. Nothing complicated! That's why it's so annoying - my husband's return is actually more complex than mine with business income and he gets his refund in like a week. Meanwhile I'm over here waiting 6+ weeks every year for my simple return. Makes zero sense.
My refund took 9 days from filing to deposit. Not as fast as yours but way better than last year when it took almost 2 months! I think filing early really helps - I submitted on January 28th this year vs waiting until early March last year.
I had this exact issue last year. For freetaxusa.com specifically, you need to: 1) Select P as the distribution code 2) On the next screen, it'll ask about the reason for the distribution 3) Select the option for "return of excess contributions" 4) It should then ask about the earnings amount (your $270 in box 2a) The software handles the calculations correctly if you follow those steps. Don't try to enter the J code separately - the P code plus the "return of excess contributions" reason covers both parts of the PJ code.
Just to add some additional context - the "P" code tells the software that this is a distribution from a Roth IRA, while the "J" indicates it's specifically a return of excess contributions that happened within the allowable timeframe (which is why you only have a small taxable amount on your earnings). Remember that only the earnings portion is taxable when you properly remove excess contributions, which matches your situation where box 2a is only showing about $270 taxable on a $7,800 distribution. The system should handle this correctly once you select the proper options.
Has anyone actually filled out the BOI report yet? I'm looking at the requirements and they want my home address... I use a PO Box for everything business related for privacy reasons. Can I use that instead? Don't really want my home address in some government database that could get hacked.
You HAVE to use your residential address on the BOI form. I tried using my business address and my application got rejected. Had to resubmit with my home address. The whole point of this law is transparency about who actually owns these companies, so they're strict about it.
Well that sucks but thanks for the info. I guess I'll have to use my home address then. Just feels like a privacy invasion when I've been so careful about keeping my home address separate from my business for so long.
Question for anyone who's gone through this: does my accountant count as a "company applicant" who also needs to be listed on the BOI report? My LLC was formed by my accountant on my behalf back in 2020.
For existing companies formed before January 1, 2024, you don't need to report company applicant information at all - just the beneficial owners. If your LLC was formed in 2020, you only need to report yourself as the beneficial owner, not your accountant who helped set it up. If your LLC had been formed after January 1, 2024, then yes, you would need to include your accountant as a company applicant since they filed the formation documents for you.
Thank you so much! That's a huge relief - my accountant retired and moved to Florida so I wasn't sure how I was going to get all his information for the filing.
Another option to consider is using a specialized sales tax consultant rather than a full tax attorney. They typically charge $200-350/hour instead of $750+, and this is literally all they do. I used Cherry Bekaert's sales tax team for our e-learning platform, and they were able to get us clarity for about $1500 total across multiple states. They also have established relationships with many state DORs that can expedite getting written determinations. Whatever you do, don't just guess and hope for the best. The penalties and interest can be brutal if you get audited down the road.
$1500 sounds way more reasonable than what I was quoted! Did they provide written documentation of their findings that you could use if you were ever audited?
Yes, they provided a comprehensive memo documenting their research and conclusions for each state. The document included citations to specific statutes, regulations, and rulings that supported their position. They also included a matrix showing taxability by state with color coding for high/medium/low risk areas. This became our "reasonable cause" defense documentation in case of audit, which protects against penalties (though not the underlying tax if you're found to owe it).
Has anyone here used the "voluntary disclosure" approach with states where you might have accidentally created nexus and not collected tax? I'm worried we might have been doing this wrong for the past year.
Voluntary disclosure agreements (VDAs) can be incredibly helpful if you think you've had past exposure. Most states limit the lookback period to 3-4 years instead of their full statute of limitations, and they'll typically waive penalties. They're relatively straightforward to set up - you can even apply anonymously through a representative in most states until you have certainty about the terms. I'd suggest starting with the states where you have the most sales before they find you through audit or data mining.
Sienna Gomez
Has anyone here actually gone through an IRS audit while claiming 100% business use of a vehicle? I'm curious what documentation they specifically asked for and how detailed it needed to be. I'm in the same boat and want to make sure I'm prepared if I get audited.
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Kirsuktow DarkBlade
ā¢I went through one last year. They wanted to see my mileage log with dates, starting/ending odometer readings, business purpose for each trip, and total miles. They also asked for proof of my personal vehicle (registration and insurance documents) to verify I had another car for personal use. They checked my gas receipts against my reported mileage to make sure it made sense. Be SUPER detailed in your records.
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Abigail bergen
One mistake I made that cost me thousands: if you've been using standard mileage and switch to actual expenses, you have to use the straight-line depreciation method for the remaining years. You can't use accelerated depreciation or Section 179. The IRS assumes you've already received a portion of the depreciation through your standard mileage deductions from previous years. Also, be aware that when you sell the vehicle, you'll need to recapture that depreciation, which will be taxed at ordinary income rates rather than capital gains rates. Something to keep in mind for future planning.
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Lydia Santiago
ā¢Thanks for pointing this out! I hadn't considered the depreciation recapture when I eventually sell the vehicle. Is there a specific way to calculate how much depreciation I've already "taken" through the standard mileage rate for the past two years?
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Abigail bergen
ā¢Yes, there's a specific calculation for this. The IRS considers a portion of the standard mileage rate to be depreciation. For 2022, it was 26 cents per mile and for 2023, it's 27 cents per mile. You'd take the total business miles you drove in each year and multiply by the depreciation portion for that year. For example, if you drove 30,000 business miles in 2022, that's 30,000 Ć $0.26 = $7,800 in depreciation already "taken" through the standard mileage rate. When you switch to actual expenses, you'd use this figure to reduce your depreciable basis in the vehicle. This prevents you from double-dipping on depreciation that was effectively included in your standard mileage deductions from previous years.
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