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A tip that might help - run your taxes BOTH ways (jointly and separately) before deciding. My husband has an S-Corp too, and we discovered filing jointly saved us around $3,200 even though I was convinced separately would be better. The marriage date doesn't actually matter for tax status. If you're married on December 31, 2024, the IRS considers you married for the entire tax year. Weird but true!
That's really helpful - I had no idea about the December 31 rule! If you don't mind me asking, did you find that filing jointly helped mostly because of tax bracket differences or was it due to certain credits?
For us, it was a combination of factors. The biggest benefit came from the difference in tax brackets - my income "filled up" the lower brackets when combined with some of my husband's income, which kept more of our total income in lower tax brackets than if we filed separately. We also qualified for some credits that are either reduced or eliminated when filing separately, including the child and dependent care credit (which we needed for our daughter). Plus, filing separately would have meant losing some of our itemized deductions due to the percentage of AGI thresholds. When we ran both scenarios, jointly saved us about $3,200.
Has anyone else had problems with tax software not explaining the S Corp stuff clearly? I feel like most of them are designed for simple W-2 situations and get really confusing with business income. Im about to throw my laptop out the window lol
YES! I found TurboTax completely misleading for our S Corp situation. Switched to TaxAct which handled it better but still wasn't great at explaining the MFJ vs MFS options with business income involved.
I've had good experiences with H&R Block's premium online version for this specific situation. They have a separate business section that handles S Corps properly and explains how it flows to your personal return. Bit more expensive but worth it for the clarity.
4 I've been in HR for 15 years and this is unfortunately common with small businesses. They often don't understand their legal obligations or try to cut corners with payroll compliance. One thing to check - do you have access to an online employee portal through Paycor? Many payroll companies have employee self-service where you can download your own W-2 even if the employer hasn't distributed them. Worth asking your former boss if they set that up.
7 I had a similar issue and found my W-2 in my Paycor account even though my employer said they "weren't ready yet." How would the original poster know if they have access? Is there a standard login page or something?
4 Yes, Paycor has a standard employee self-service portal at secure.paycor.com where employees can log in. If your employer set it up, you would have received an email invitation at some point to create your account. Even former employees typically retain access to their documents for a period after leaving. If you never set up an account, you can try the "forgot password" option using your work email, or call Paycor's employee support line at 800-381-0053 and ask if you have an account associated with your employer. Sometimes they can help reset access if you can verify your identity.
23 Has anyone actually reported an employer to the IRS for not providing W-2s? I'm curious what happens to them. My girlfriend's boss is doing the same thing to her and 3 other former employees - keeps saying "they're coming" but it's been weeks past the deadline.
14 I reported a former employer two years ago. Called the IRS W-2 complaint line, gave all the details, and about 2 weeks later the employer suddenly emailed W-2s to everyone with a very apologetic note. Heard through a friend still working there that they got hit with some decent fines. Definitely worth reporting!
Here's another approach I used for my excess HSA contribution: I actually left the money in the HSA and just contributed less the following year. Example: if the max contribution is $4150 and you over-contributed by $2100, you would only contribute $2050 the next year. You'll still pay the 6% excess tax one more time, but then it stops because you're effectively "using up" your excess contribution as part of the next year's allowed contribution. This might be easier than withdrawing if your HSA administrator makes that process complicated.
So if I understand correctly, I could leave my $2100 excess in there, pay the 6% tax one more time for 2024, but then for 2025 I would only contribute $2050 instead of the full $4150? And then everything would be back to normal going forward? That actually sounds easier than trying to get my HSA administrator to do a special withdrawal.
Exactly right! You'll pay the 6% tax ($126) one more time when you file your 2024 return, but then for 2025, you'd only contribute $2050 instead of the full $4150. This way, your total 2025 contribution (including the $2100 excess that remained in your account) equals the maximum allowed contribution. After that, everything is back to normal for 2026 and you can resume contributing the full annual limit. Many people find this approach simpler than dealing with the withdrawal process, especially if your HSA administrator has a complicated process or charges fees for excess contribution withdrawals.
I'm confused about whether the 6% tax applies in the year you over-contributed or the following year? If I over-contributed in 2023 but didn't realize it until filing my 2023 taxes in 2024, when do I actually pay the tax?
The 6% excess contribution tax applies to the tax year in which the excess contribution occurred. So if you over-contributed in 2023, you'd pay the tax when filing your 2023 tax return (which you'd typically file in early 2024). If you don't correct the excess contribution by withdrawing it or using it up (by contributing less in a later year), then you'll continue paying the 6% tax in each subsequent year until the situation is fixed. That's why the original poster is facing another 6% tax for 2024 - because the excess from 2023 is still sitting in their HSA.
Just to add to what others have said - the difference between your gross income ($56k) and taxable income ($35k) includes both "above-the-line" deductions (adjustments to income) AND your standard/itemized deduction. For example: - Gross Income: $56,000 - Minus Adjustments (SEP-IRA, student loan interest, etc.): $6,000 - Equals AGI: $50,000 - Minus Standard Deduction: $15,000 - Equals Taxable Income: $35,000 For your educational credits question - yes, there are education credits like the American Opportunity Credit and Lifetime Learning Credit, but they have income limits based on your MODIFIED AGI. So knowing your actual AGI is important for planning.
Thanks so much for breaking this down! This makes way more sense now. I found my tax return and my AGI was actually $48,500, so my adjustments were about $7,500 and then the standard deduction took me down to the $35k taxable income. Do you know what the income limits are for those education credits? I'm hoping to qualify next year.
For 2025 (taxes you'll file in 2026), the American Opportunity Credit begins to phase out at $80,000 MAGI for single filers and $160,000 for married filing jointly. It's completely phased out at $90,000/$180,000. The Lifetime Learning Credit has the same phaseout ranges. With your AGI around $48,500, you should be well within the limits to claim either credit as long as your income doesn't increase dramatically. The American Opportunity Credit is worth up to $2,500 but can only be claimed for the first 4 years of undergraduate education. The Lifetime Learning Credit is worth up to $2,000 and can be used for any level of education, including graduate courses or professional development.
Anyone know if it's better to use the AGI or the taxable income figure when applying for a mortgage? I'm in a similar income range ($52k gross) and getting different advice from different lenders.
Mortgage lenders will almost always look at your gross income (before any deductions) and sometimes specifically at your AGI, not your taxable income. They want to know your actual earnings capacity, not the number after all your deductions. They'll typically ask for 2 years of tax returns and recent pay stubs to verify your income.
Madison Allen
14 Former municipal tax office worker here. This happens more often than you'd think. School districts and municipalities sell delinquent tax accounts to improve their immediate cash flow rather than waiting to collect. Unfortunately, once it's sold, you do have to deal with the collection agency. However, there's a possible solution: ask your employer for a formal letter acknowledging their error in not withholding the proper taxes. With that documentation, you'll have a much stronger case when you call the collection agency. Request to speak to a manager (not just a frontline rep) and explain that you're willing to pay the base tax immediately but not the fees due to employer error. In my experience, many agencies will waive at least part of the fees if you're willing to pay the base amount immediately.
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Madison Allen
ā¢5 Would filing a complaint with the state tax board help in this situation? I've heard they sometimes intervene in collection disputes.
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Madison Allen
ā¢14 Filing a complaint with the state tax board might help, but it usually takes time - often weeks or months. It's worth doing if other approaches fail, but I'd try direct negotiation first. That said, some states do have specific regulations about what collection agencies can charge for tax debts. Check your state's department of revenue website for information about third-party tax collectors. Some states require these agencies to register and follow specific guidelines, which might include limits on fees they can charge.
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Madison Allen
2 Is anyone else concerned that your employer messed up and YOU have to pay the penalty? I'd definitely talk to HR/payroll because this is their mistake. I had something similar happen with state income tax a couple years ago and my company reimbursed me for the penalties after I proved it was their withholding error. Don't just accept those fees without pushing back!
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Madison Allen
ā¢9 Absolutely! Document everything and take it to your employer first. When this happened to me, my HR department initially brushed me off, but when I escalated to the company controller and showed the withholding discrepancy on my pay stubs compared to the tax requirement, they covered the penalties. Companies have insurance for payroll errors for exactly this reason.
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