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Leila Haddad

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I work for a tax preparation service and see this issue frequently with VA state refunds, especially during peak filing season. What many people don't realize is that Virginia uses a third-party vendor for printing and mailing refund checks, which can add additional delays beyond the "issued" date shown in their system. The 6+ week timeline you're experiencing is unfortunately becoming more common this year - we've had at least a dozen clients report similar delays. Here's what I recommend: 1) Call VA Tax at 804-367-8031 first thing Monday morning (they're less busy early in the week), 2) Have your SSN and exact refund amount ready, 3) Ask specifically about "delivery confirmation" status, not just issuance status, and 4) Request they initiate both a payment trace AND a stop payment on the original check simultaneously. Don't let them tell you to wait longer - 6+ weeks is well beyond reasonable delivery timeframes. Also, consider requesting the replacement be sent via certified mail for an additional $3.50 fee - it's worth it for the tracking and security.

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This is really helpful information, especially about the third-party vendor for printing and mailing! I had no idea that could cause additional delays beyond what shows in VA's system. As someone new to Virginia taxes (just moved here last year), I was expecting the same timeline I experienced with other states. The tip about calling early Monday morning is great - I've been trying to call mid-week when they're probably swamped. I'm definitely going to ask about that certified mail option for the replacement check. An extra $3.50 is nothing compared to the stress of wondering if a second check will also disappear into the mail system. Thanks for the professional insight!

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Omar Fawaz

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I had the exact same issue with my VA state refund last year! Check was "issued" on February 3rd, and I didn't receive it until April 8th - that's over 9 weeks. Turns out it was a combination of issues: the original check got lost in the mail (likely stolen from my apartment complex's mailbox area), and then VA's replacement process took forever because they had to verify the original wasn't cashed. What finally worked for me was being persistent with their phone line and documenting everything. I called every few days after the 6-week mark and kept detailed notes of who I spoke with and what they told me. Eventually got connected with a supervisor who expedited the replacement check process. One thing that might help - if you have any neighbors who received VA refunds around the same timeframe, ask them about their experience. In my case, two other people in my building also had VA checks go missing around the same time, which helped establish a pattern of mail theft that made VA more willing to fast-track the replacement. Don't give up! It's frustrating but you will eventually get your money. The squeaky wheel gets the grease with these situations.

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Carmen Ortiz

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@Omar Fawaz This is exactly the kind of systematic approach I needed to hear about! The documentation tip is brilliant - I ve'been calling sporadically but not keeping detailed records of what each representative told me. Your experience with the neighbor situation is really eye-opening too. I m'going to check with people in my building to see if anyone else has had similar issues with mail delivery lately. The 9-week timeline you experienced is honestly terrifying, but knowing that persistence and escalation to a supervisor eventually worked gives me hope. Thanks for sharing the detailed breakdown of what actually worked - this is way more actionable advice than just call "and wait.

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How to Determine FMV on Date of Death for Inherited Property

Hey everyone, I'm dealing with a tough situation and could use some advice. My mother passed away last year (2023) and left her house to my brother and me in her will. Our estate attorney mentioned the house wasn't technically part of the estate. We ended up selling it about 6 months after she died. I'm now struggling with how to figure out the Fair Market Value (FMV) as of the date of death for tax purposes. The buyer did get an appraisal done about a month before closing, but I don't have access to it - and it wouldn't have been from the date she passed anyway. From what I've read online, the most reliable way to get FMV would be a formal appraisal from a licensed real estate appraiser. I want to be as accurate as possible for reporting purposes (and in case I'm ever audited by the IRS), but I have no clue how to get this done retroactively. I've gotten conflicting advice from tax people. One adviser from my tax software company suggested that the cost basis should just match my portion (50%) of the gross proceeds shown on the 1099-S. Our estate attorney said something similar since we sold the house relatively quickly after mom's passing. But another tax adviser warned this is a "sensitive area" of tax returns and I need to be super accurate. What's the best way to determine that FMV at this point? It feels lazy to just use the same number for cost basis and gross proceeds from the 1099-S. Just to note - we won't be filing an estate tax return since there isn't $600 of income, so I don't need to worry about matching FMV numbers with an estate return. Thanks for any help you can offer!

Lydia Bailey

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I'm so sorry for your loss, Landon. This is such a difficult situation to navigate while you're grieving. After reading through all the excellent advice here, I wanted to share my experience from when my mother passed last year and left me her property. I was in almost the exact same situation - sold about 7 months after she passed and was worried about determining the FMV. What really helped me was understanding that the stepped-up basis rules are actually designed to make this straightforward, not complicated. Since you sold within 6 months, using the sale price as your FMV is not only reasonable - it's exactly what the IRS expects in these situations. Here's what I did for documentation that gave me complete peace of mind: 1. Created a simple one-page memo explaining my reasoning (property inherited X date, sold Y date, no major improvements, used sale price as FMV due to short timeframe) 2. Got the county tax assessment from around the date of death (this was free and took one phone call) 3. Asked our realtor to pull just 2-3 comparable sales from that time period (she did this for free since we'd worked with her) Having those three data points all in the same general range made me feel completely confident in my approach. The IRS wants to see that you made a good faith effort to determine fair market value, and this clearly demonstrates that. Your estate attorney's advice is spot-on, and you shouldn't feel "lazy" about this approach. The stepped-up basis exists specifically to prevent you from paying capital gains on your mother's appreciation. Having nearly identical basis and proceeds is exactly how it's supposed to work. You're handling this correctly!

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Emma Davis

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@Lydia Bailey - thank you so much for sharing your experience! As someone who s'completely new to this community and dealing with inherited property for the first time my (aunt recently passed ,)your three-step documentation approach is incredibly helpful and reassuring. I love how you ve'broken it down into such manageable pieces - a one-page memo, county tax assessment, and a few comparable sales. The fact that all three data points were in the same general range must have given you such confidence in your approach. It s'also really encouraging to hear that the realtor provided the comps for free. Your point about the IRS wanting to see good "faith effort rather" than perfection really helps put this in perspective. Sometimes when you re'new to these tax situations, it feels like everything has to be incredibly complex and formal, but it sounds like demonstrating reasonable research and documentation is what really matters. @Landon Flounder - Lydia s approach'seems like such a perfect template for your situation! Combined with all the other excellent advice in this thread, you really have multiple solid paths forward. The consensus is so clear that you re handling'this correctly and that the stepped-up basis rules are designed to work exactly as you re experiencing.'Thank you to everyone who has shared their real-world experiences here - this kind of practical guidance from people who have actually been through these situations is invaluable during such a challenging time.

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I'm so sorry for your loss, Landon. Having lost my own father recently and dealt with similar property valuation challenges, I completely understand how overwhelming this feels when you're already grieving. Reading through all these responses, I'm struck by how consistent the advice is - you're absolutely on the right track. The stepped-up basis rules under IRC Section 1014 are specifically designed for situations exactly like yours, where inherited property is sold relatively quickly after death. What really helped me gain confidence in my approach was understanding that having nearly identical cost basis and sale proceeds isn't a red flag - it's literally the intended outcome of the stepped-up basis rules. You're supposed to avoid paying capital gains tax on appreciation that happened during your mother's lifetime. Given your 6-month timeline and arm's length sale, using the sale price as FMV is not only reasonable but well-supported by IRS guidance in Publication 559. Treasury Regulation 20.2031-1(b) specifically supports using sales prices as evidence of fair market value when they occur close to the valuation date. If you want additional peace of mind without the expense of a formal appraisal, I'd suggest what several others have mentioned: - Get the county tax assessment from around the date of death (usually free) - Create a simple one-page memo documenting your reasoning - Consider asking a realtor for comparable sales from that time period Your estate attorney's advice aligns perfectly with established tax practice. Trust that you're handling this correctly - the tax code is actually working in your favor here, and that's exactly how Congress intended it to work.

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I totally understand your stress about this! I went through something similar last year when I started getting anxious about all my Venmo activity. Here's what helped me get peace of mind: First, remember that the IRS processes millions of tax returns and they're not sitting there analyzing every Venmo transaction. The 1099-K is just reporting gross payment volume - it's up to you to report your actual taxable income. For your specific situations, you're absolutely right that these aren't taxable: - The $8,500 vacation reimbursements are clearly not income since you were just collecting money to pay expenses on everyone's behalf - The monthly transfers to help your sister with rent are gifts (and well under the $17,000 annual gift exclusion) My advice: Start keeping better records now for peace of mind. Create a simple spreadsheet noting what larger payments were for, save screenshots of Venmo transactions with clear descriptions, and keep any supporting docs (like receipts for the vacation expenses you paid). The reality is that most people in your situation never hear anything from the IRS. You report your actual taxable income, and if there's ever a question down the road, you have documentation showing these were legitimate reimbursements and personal transfers. Don't let the anxiety consume you - this is way more common than you think, and the system is designed to handle it!

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Zainab Ahmed

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This is exactly the reassurance I needed to hear! I've been losing sleep over this whole situation, thinking the IRS was going to come after me for "hiding income" when really I was just helping organize a group trip and supporting my sister. Your point about starting better recordkeeping now is really smart. I'm definitely going to create that spreadsheet you mentioned and be way more specific in my Venmo notes going forward. It's probably worth spending a weekend organizing all my 2024 transactions just so I have everything ready when tax time comes. I think what was really stressing me out was not understanding HOW the IRS would know the difference between real income and reimbursements, but reading through everyone's responses here, it sounds like the burden is just on me to report honestly and keep good records. That actually feels much more manageable than whatever scary audit scenario I was imagining in my head! Thanks for taking the time to explain this - it's really helpful to hear from people who have actually dealt with this situation before.

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation and this thread has been incredibly helpful! I run a small neighborhood babysitting co-op where parents Venmo me throughout the year for shared childcare expenses - things like paying sitters for group playdates, splitting costs for a shared nanny during school breaks, etc. Last year it was probably close to $15,000 flowing through my account, but obviously none of it was income since I was just collecting and redistributing the money to actual childcare providers. Reading everyone's advice here, I'm realizing I need to get much better about documentation. I've been pretty casual about Venmo notes, but I'm going to start being super specific like "March nanny share - your portion" or "Group playdate sitter reimbursement." One thing I'm wondering - since this involves childcare expenses, should I also be keeping receipts from when I pay the actual sitters/nannies? It seems like having that paper trail showing the money going back out would be good evidence that I was just acting as a middleman rather than providing services myself. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - it's such a relief to know this is a common situation and that the IRS isn't going to assume every dollar on a 1099-K is taxable income!

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Yes, absolutely keep receipts when you pay the sitters and nannies! That creates a perfect paper trail showing money flowing in from parents and then flowing back out to the actual service providers. It clearly demonstrates you're just facilitating payments rather than earning income from childcare services yourself. Your babysitting co-op situation is actually a really clear example of non-taxable pass-through funds. I'd suggest keeping a simple log with columns for: date, parent who paid you, amount, which sitter/nanny you paid, and the date you paid them out. Having that organized record would make it super easy to show that every dollar coming in was matched by a dollar going out to actual childcare providers. The specificity in Venmo notes you're planning is also smart - "March nanny share - your portion" is much clearer than something generic. You might also consider asking the parents to include their child's name in the note like "March nanny share for Emma" so it's extra obvious these are childcare reimbursements rather than payments for services you're providing. This is exactly the kind of situation where good documentation makes everything straightforward if questions ever arise. You're essentially running a mini payment processing operation for your neighborhood, not a babysitting business!

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Chloe Taylor

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One thing to watch out for - the filing requirements can also be triggered if your child has earned income plus unearned income that together exceed the standard deduction (around $14,600 for 2025). My teenager had a summer job AND investment income, and even though neither would require filing on their own, the combination did. The tax software I was using completely missed this!

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Diego Flores

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This is so true! My daughter made about $8,000 at her part-time job and had about $1,500 in dividends from her grandparent's gift account. We thought we were fine until our accountant caught it. The rules get complicated fast when you mix earned and unearned income.

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Great question! Yes, the filing thresholds do change annually based on inflation adjustments. For 2025, the unearned income threshold for dependents is $2,300, so you're absolutely right that your kids likely don't need to file this year. Looking at your numbers: $190 (ordinary dividends) + $1,850 (capital gains distributions) = $2,040 total unearned income per child. Since this is under the $2,300 threshold, no Form 8615 filing should be required. Just double-check that the $190 in ordinary dividends already includes the qualified dividends (it usually does on most brokerage statements), so you don't want to add the $165 qualified dividends on top of that. Also keep good records of any reinvested distributions for future cost basis calculations, even if you're not filing now. The IRS publishes these updated thresholds each year in Publication 929 if you want to bookmark it for future reference!

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Ethan Wilson

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Thanks for the clear breakdown! I'm new to dealing with kids' investment accounts and this is really helpful. One quick question - when you mention Publication 929, is that something that gets updated every year around tax season? I want to make sure I'm checking the right source for 2026 when that time comes around. Also, do these threshold adjustments usually go up by a significant amount or is it typically just small changes?

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Dylan Evans

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This is such a timely question! I just went through this exact situation when I sold some rare baseball cards I'd been collecting for years. The confusion about collectible tax rates is totally understandable - even tax software sometimes gets it wrong. You're absolutely correct in your understanding. Collectibles are taxed at your ordinary income tax rate, but capped at 28%. So if you're in the 12% bracket, you pay 12% on collectible gains. If you're in the 32% bracket, you only pay the maximum 28%. One thing I learned the hard way is to keep really detailed records of what you originally paid for each comic, including any fees for authentication, grading, or storage. These all count toward your cost basis and can significantly reduce your taxable gain when you sell. Also, don't forget that if you hold the comics for less than a year before selling, they're taxed as short-term capital gains at your full ordinary income rate with no 28% cap protection. So there's definitely an advantage to holding collectibles for more than a year if you're planning to sell them.

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Nia Williams

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Thanks for sharing your experience with the baseball cards! That's really reassuring to hear from someone who's actually been through this process. I'm definitely planning to hold onto the comics for more than a year - that short-term vs long-term distinction is huge when you're looking at potentially paying your full marginal rate without any cap. Your point about keeping detailed records is well taken. I've already started a spreadsheet tracking what I paid for each comic, but I hadn't thought about including storage costs. Are things like acid-free bags, backing boards, and storage boxes deductible as part of the basis? Or is that getting too granular? Also, did you find any particular challenges when it came to proving the fair market value at the time of sale, especially for more obscure collectibles that don't have as clear of a market price?

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Storage costs like acid-free bags, backing boards, and storage boxes are generally considered personal expenses rather than improvements to the collectibles themselves, so they typically can't be added to your cost basis. The IRS usually only allows costs that directly improve or preserve the specific item's condition or value - like professional grading, authentication, or restoration services. For proving fair market value, I found that graded comics are much easier since you can reference recent sales of the same issue in the same grade on platforms like eBay sold listings, Heritage Auctions, or GoCollect. For ungraded comics, it gets trickier - I ended up getting a professional appraisal for my higher-value cards to avoid any issues with the IRS. One tip: if you're dealing with key issues or high-value comics, consider getting them graded before selling even if you bought them raw. Not only does it typically increase the sale price, but it also gives you a clear, objective condition assessment that makes determining fair market value much easier for tax purposes.

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone who's been buying and selling vintage collectibles for a few years now, I can confirm everything that's been said about the collectible tax rates. One additional point that might be useful - if you're dealing with multiple collectibles sold throughout the year, you might want to consider bunching your sales into years when your overall income is lower. Since collectibles are taxed at your ordinary income rate (capped at 28%), strategic timing can really make a difference. For example, I had a big bonus year where I was temporarily in the 32% bracket, so I held off selling some collectibles until the following year when I was back down to 24%. Saved me 4% on the gains, which added up to real money. Also, if you're serious about collecting comics or other items as investments, consider keeping a detailed log of market research, time spent researching purchases, and any educational materials you buy about collecting. While you can't deduct these as business expenses if you're treating it as investment activity, having detailed records shows the IRS that you're approaching this seriously as an investment rather than just a hobby.

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This is such great strategic advice about timing the sales! I never thought about how my overall income in a given year could affect the tax rate on collectibles. That 4% difference you saved really shows how much planning ahead can matter. Your point about keeping detailed records of research and education is smart too. Even if you can't deduct those expenses, showing that you're approaching collecting systematically rather than just casually buying things you like could definitely help if the IRS ever questions whether it's investment activity versus a hobby. Question for you - when you say "bunching sales," do you mean literally waiting until January of the following year, or is there more nuance to the timing? I'm wondering if there are other factors like estimated tax payments that might complicate the strategy of shifting income between tax years.

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