


Ask the community...
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - if you're buying a car JUST for gig work, consider getting a super fuel efficient hybrid like a Prius. I did this last year and it's been amazing for my bottom line. Even if you go with standard mileage deduction (which covers gas costs theoretically), you still pocket the difference between what the IRS gives you per mile and your actual costs. I'm getting 50+ mpg and saving a ton compared to my old SUV. Also, used Priuses are pretty cheap right now with gas prices being lower. Just make sure you get the battery checked before buying a higher mileage one.
How much did you end up paying for your used Prius? I'm looking at some online but the prices seem all over the place. And did you have any issues with passenger ratings on Uber/Lyft because of the smaller car?
I paid $12,800 for a 2017 Prius with about 78,000 miles on it in decent condition. The market has fluctuated a bit since then, but you can still find good deals especially from private sellers. I calculated that the car basically pays for itself over 2-3 years just from the gas savings alone compared to my previous vehicle. For passenger ratings, I actually saw my ratings improve slightly. The Prius has surprisingly good legroom in the back, and passengers often comment positively about the smooth, quiet ride. I've found that keeping the car clean and offering small amenities like charging cables makes a bigger difference to ratings than the vehicle type for most everyday riders. Airport pickups with lots of luggage can occasionally be challenging, but that's fairly rare in my market.
Important point everyone is missing: If you use the standard mileage deduction rate for the first year, you can switch between standard mileage and actual expenses in future years. But if you use actual expenses the first year, you're LOCKED IN to using actual expenses for the life of that vehicle. THIS IS HUGE if you're buying a car specifically for gig work. Get professional advice before making this decision because it could cost you thousands over the life of the vehicle if you choose wrong in year one. Also, keep a mileage log no matter what method you choose. IRS requires it even if you go with actual expenses. There are good apps for this - I use Stride.
Do you have a source for this? I've been using actual expenses for 2 years now and was planning to switch to standard mileage this year since I'm driving way more now. Am I actually not allowed to switch?
Yes, this is directly from IRS Publication 463 (Travel, Gift, and Car Expenses). The exact text states: "If you want to use the standard mileage rate for a car you own, you must choose to use it in the first year the car is available for use in your business. Then, in later years, you can choose to use either the standard mileage rate or actual expenses." And further: "If you choose to use actual expenses in the first year, you cannot use the standard mileage rate in a later year." So unfortunately, since you've been using actual expenses for 2 years, you're locked into continuing with that method for this specific vehicle. However, if you get a different vehicle in the future, you could choose the standard mileage rate for that new vehicle. This is why getting good advice before making these decisions is so important.
Honestly, I'd stick with FreeTaxUSA but watch some YouTube tutorials first. I use it every year for my side hustles (Etsy + DoorDash) and it's WAY cheaper than TurboTax. The confusing part is that 1099-NEC and 1099-K need to be entered differently. For the 1099-NEC, you'll enter it under self-employment income. For the 1099-K, you need to make sure you're entering all your expenses too or you'll massively overpay. Don't forget to track mileage - that's the biggest deduction for delivery gigs! FreeTaxUSA has a section specifically for vehicle expenses where you can enter your business miles.
Wait - I thought 1099-K was just another form of income reporting? Do I need to enter it differently than my 1099-NEC? I was planning to put both under self-employment income.
You do enter both under self-employment income, but the 1099-K works a little differently because it reports your gross transaction amount - meaning it includes the total paid by customers before the app takes their cut and before any expenses. With a 1099-NEC, the amount shown is generally what you actually received. But with 1099-K, you'll need to make sure you're accounting for platform fees, mileage, and other expenses to avoid being taxed on money you didn't actually get to keep. FreeTaxUSA has sections for all these expenses, you just need to make sure you enter them.
Has anyone else noticed that FreeTaxUSA sometimes doesn't import all the expenses properly? I did both GrubHub and UberEats last year too, and I had to manually enter a bunch of stuff.
Make sure you're also checking box 2a on your 1099-R. If the "Taxable amount" field shows your entire distribution as taxable when it shouldn't be, that's another red flag that the form is incorrect. For a direct rollover, box 2a should typically show $0 as the taxable amount, and the "Taxable amount not determined" box might be checked. Another possibility: did you do the rollover within 60 days of receiving the distribution? If there was any delay beyond that window, it could be considered a taxable distribution rather than a rollover.
I just double-checked my 1099-R and box 2a shows the entire amount as taxable! That's definitely wrong since this was a direct rollover (the money went straight from my 401k provider to the new IRA custodian without me touching it). There was no 60-day window concern since I never received the funds. And looking at box 7 again, it has code "1" which I think means early distribution. That's completely incorrect for a direct rollover. This explains why TurboTax is calculating taxes owed. I'm definitely going to have to contact the plan administrator for a corrected form.
Yep, that confirms the problem. Code "1" means early distribution (generally subject to taxes plus a 10% penalty if you're under 59.5 years old), and having the full amount in box 2a as taxable is definitely incorrect for a direct rollover. You need a corrected 1099-R with code "G" in box 7 and ideally "$0" in box 2a. When you contact the administrator, be very specific about these corrections. Sometimes the customer service reps don't understand the tax implications, so you might need to escalate to their tax department.
I had EXACTLY this problem last year! The 401k company messed up the code on my 1099-R and it showed as a regular distribution instead of a rollover. When I called, they tried to tell me it was correct, but I insisted they transfer me to someone in their tax department. The key was having them confirm that they sent the money DIRECTLY to my new IRA custodian. Once they verified that in their records, they had to admit it was coded wrong and issued a corrected 1099-R with code G. Until you get the corrected form, don't file your taxes if possible! It's much easier than having to file an amended return later.
Something important that nobody has mentioned - if this was a REFINANCE (not a first mortgage), you can't deduct all the points in the year you paid them! You have to spread the deduction over the life of the loan. So if you paid $7,800 in points on a 30-year refinance, you can only deduct about $260 per year. A lot of people miss this and incorrectly deduct the full amount in year one.
Is there any exception to this rule? I thought if you use the refinance money for home improvements, you can deduct points immediately?
Also check your monthly mortgage statements - sometimes they'll list the interest rate reduction you received from paying points. Mine shows "Rate: 4.125% (reduced by 0.75% through discount points)" which helped confirm what I paid for when the settlement statement was unclear.
That's a really helpful tip - I hadn't thought to check my monthly statements! I'll take a look at mine tonight. Thanks!
Andre Moreau
My brother used one of those tax relief places advertised on the radio. They charged him $3,500 upfront and literally just filled out the same installment agreement request form he could have done himself for free on the IRS website. Complete waste of money. If you're dealing with unfiled 1099 income, just find a local CPA or EA (Enrolled Agent) who specializes in tax resolution. They'll charge you a reasonable fee to file your back taxes and request a payment plan. Don't fall for the marketing from these national "tax forgiveness" chains.
0 coins
Zoe Christodoulou
β’This is so true! I made the same mistake. The "tax relief experts" took my money and then just submitted an installment agreement. When I asked about the "pennies on the dollar" settlement they promised in their ads, they said I "didn't qualify" but only after they had my money. Do these companies ever actually get anyone an Offer in Compromise?
0 coins
Andre Moreau
β’Very few of their clients actually qualify for an Offer in Compromise (the "pennies on the dollar" program). The IRS only approves those when you can prove you have no ability to pay and limited assets. Most people with steady income don't qualify. What these companies do is take advantage of people's fear of the IRS. They charge premium prices for standard services like filing back tax returns and setting up payment plans. The worst part is they often don't even look for legitimate deductions that could reduce the total amount owed. They're focused on processing as many clients as possible, not giving personalized service.
0 coins
Jamal Thompson
Quick question - if I use a regular CPA to file my old 1099 tax returns, how far back do I need to go? I haven't filed in like 4 years because I didn't know how to deal with my contractor income.
0 coins
Mei Chen
β’The IRS generally focuses on the last 6 years for unfiled returns, but technically there's no statute of limitations on unfiled tax returns. For practical purposes, most CPAs will recommend filing at least the last 3-6 years to get back into compliance.
0 coins