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Another potential issue - double check if you're contributing the same amount to retirement accounts at your new job. When I changed jobs, I didn't realize the default 401k contribution was lower at my new company. This meant more of my income was taxable, which reduced my refund significantly. Took me months to figure out why my refund was so different!
That's a really good point! Also, check if you're getting the same pre-tax deductions for health insurance and FSA/HSA contributions. My refund was way different one year because my new employer's health plan was $150/month cheaper, which meant $1800 more taxable income that year.
Yes, health insurance premiums are definitely something to check too! In my case, my premium went from $220 pre-tax at my old job to $180 at the new one, which added about $480 in taxable income for the year. Another thing I discovered was that my old job had automatically enrolled me in commuter benefits that took about $100/month pre-tax, and my new job didn't have that program. Small differences like these can really add up and affect your withholding and final tax bill.
Did your old job give you any bonuses or have overtime? I had the same issue last year and it turned out my previous tax return included a $2000 bonus and about 50 hours of overtime that had higher withholding rates. My new job pays the same base salary but without those extras, my refund was way smaller.
You know what, this might be part of it too! My previous job did include some overtime during our busy season, maybe 3-4 hours a week for about 2 months. My new position is strictly 40 hours. That combined with the W-4 changes everyone mentioned probably explains the difference. Thanks for pointing this out - I hadn't even considered the overtime factor.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - have you checked if you qualify for any deductions or credits that might lower your MAGI? Things like student loan interest, retirement contributions, or the self-employed health insurance deduction can all reduce your MAGI, which might put you in a lower repayment cap bracket. I was in a similar situation last year and realized I could make a retroactive IRA contribution for the tax year, which lowered my MAGI just enough to qualify for a lower repayment cap. Saved me about $400!
That's a really smart idea I hadn't considered! I do have student loans and I've been making payments. Would those interest deductions help in this situation? Also, is it too late to make retirement contributions that would count for last year?
Student loan interest can definitely help lower your MAGI, which is exactly what you want in this situation. You can deduct up to $2,500 in student loan interest depending on your income level. As for retirement contributions, you can still make IRA contributions for 2024 until the tax filing deadline in April 2025. If you have self-employment income, you might also be eligible for a SEP IRA which has higher contribution limits. Just make sure you specify that the contribution is for tax year 2024 when you make it. This is one of the few "retroactive" moves you can make that legally affects your previous year's taxes.
Has anyone actually had success making retroactive changes to their marketplace application after the year is over? I'm in a similar situation but when I called my state marketplace, they told me it was too late to make changes for last year's coverage.
Yes! I successfully did this. The key is that you need to contact the marketplace and specifically request an "income adjustment review" for the previous year. The regular customer service reps often don't know about this process. Ask to speak with a supervisor or advanced resolution team. Explain that you made an honest mistake in reporting your income (confusing net vs. gross) and request the review. They may have you submit documentation of your actual income. In my case, they adjusted my 1095-A and issued a corrected one, which significantly reduced what I owed.
If you filed paper amended returns, be prepared to wait even longer. My 2020 amended return took 11 months to process last year, while my 2021 (filed at the same time) was done in about 5 months. There's absolutely no rhyme or reason to how they process these things. One tip: if you're approaching the 3-year deadline for claiming a refund on any of those years, make sure you keep proof of when you submitted the amended return. The IRS has to honor the date you filed even if they process it after the deadline.
I did mail paper returns for all three years because I had to include some supporting documentation. Did you do anything special to make the process go faster for the 2021 return?
I didn't do anything special for the 2021 return - it just happened to get processed faster. Paper returns are unfortunately at the mercy of whichever processing center they get sent to and how backed up that specific location is. One thing I learned later is that you can actually e-file amended returns for tax years 2019 and later using certain tax software, even with supporting documentation (you can scan and attach PDFs). E-filed amendments tend to process much faster than paper ones. For future reference, that might be a better option if you ever need to amend again.
Has anyone tried going to their local IRS Taxpayer Assistance Center? I had a similar situation last year and made an appointment at my local office. The agent there was able to look up all my amended returns and give me specific information about each one. You have to call 844-545-5640 to make an appointment though - they don't take walk-ins.
I did this for my amended returns too. The in-person agent was WAY more helpful than phone support. She even spotted a mistake in my 2019 amendment that would have caused issues and let me fix it on the spot.
That's great to hear your experience was similar! The in-person assistance is definitely underrated. The agents at the Taxpayer Assistance Centers seem to have more time to thoroughly review your situation compared to phone agents who are trying to get through as many calls as possible. I've found they can also sometimes expedite processing if you have a legitimate hardship situation or if there's been an unusually long delay. Did they offer to help speed things up in your case?
One approach I've found helpful is using the specific identification method when selling investments. This lets me choose exactly which shares to sell - typically the ones with the highest basis to minimize gains. Most brokerages allow this now, and it's much more tax-efficient than FIFO or average cost methods. For tracking, I just maintain a simple spreadsheet with columns for: - Original investment date and amount - Growth (unrealized gains) - Principal withdrawals (date and amount) - Remaining principal available for tax-free withdrawal Works well for my homegrown dividend strategy and takes minimal time to maintain.
Do you have to notify your brokerage which specific shares you want to sell before the sale, or can you do it afterward when filing taxes?
You need to specify which shares you want to sell at the time of the sale - you can't decide later when filing taxes. Most online brokerages have an option during the sell process where you can choose "Specific Identification" instead of FIFO (First In, First Out) or average cost. When you choose specific identification, you'll be able to select the exact lots (shares purchased on specific dates at specific prices) that you want to sell. This gives you maximum control over the tax implications of your sales and is essential for an effective homegrown dividend strategy.
Has anyone here dealt with homegrown dividends in retirement accounts vs taxable accounts? I'm trying to figure out how this works with my Roth IRA where the contributions are already post-tax.
For Roth IRAs, the withdrawal rules are a bit different. You can always withdraw your contributions (principal) tax and penalty free at any time. It's actually even simpler than with taxable accounts because you don't need to worry about specific identification of lots. The IRS considers withdrawals from Roth IRAs to come from contributions first, then conversions, then earnings. So you can just keep track of your total contributions over the years, and as long as your withdrawals don't exceed that amount, they're completely tax-free.
Justin Evans
Don't forget that in some states you can get a tax credit for rent paid! I'm in Minnesota and we have a "renter's credit" where you can get money back based on your income and how much rent you paid during the year. Not everyone knows about it. Definitely report the FULL year amount and check if your state has any rent-related benefits.
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Michael Adams
ā¢Oh that's good to know! I'm in Pennsylvania - does anyone know if we have something similar here? How would I find out if my state offers rent credits?
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Justin Evans
ā¢Pennsylvania has what's called a "Property Tax/Rent Rebate Program" that might apply to you depending on your age, income, and other factors. It's primarily designed for seniors, widows/widowers over 50, and people with disabilities, but it's worth checking if you qualify. The best way to find out about rent-related tax benefits in your state is to visit your state's department of revenue website - for PA, it would be the Pennsylvania Department of Revenue site. They usually have specific sections about rebates and credits available. You can also use the IRS's Interactive Tax Assistant or contact your state tax agency directly to ask about rent-related tax benefits.
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Emily Parker
Guys I'm extremely confused. My landlord gave me a statement showing my 2023 rent as $14,400 but when I add up my actual payments it's $13,200. Should I go with what I actually paid or what my landlord says?
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Ezra Collins
ā¢You should report what you actually paid, not what was scheduled or what your landlord claims. Check if there's a reason for the discrepancy - did you miss a payment? Did you prepay January 2024 rent in December 2023 (which would count for 2023)? Ask your landlord to explain the difference.
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