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Something that worked great with my kids was creating a mini economy at home! Each kid gets "paid" for chores, then we collect "income tax" (15%) and "property tax" for their bedrooms (flat amount). The collected taxes go into a family fund that we use for things everyone benefits from - like pizza night or a movie rental. When they complained about taxes, we tried a week without them - but also without the shared benefits. No pizza, no movie night, no restocking their favorite snacks. They quickly realized that pooling resources sometimes makes sense!
This sounds like a fantastic idea! Did you have any specific way you tracked everything? I'm worried about making it too complicated but love the real-world application.
Nothing fancy! We just use a simple chart on the refrigerator with magnets. Each kid has a section with their weekly "income" from chores, then two columns showing taxes collected and take-home pay. The family fund is a jar on the counter where the tax money goes. You definitely want to keep it simple - the point is just to visualize the concept, not create an accounting nightmare for yourself! My kids actually get excited on "budget day" when we decide how to spend the family fund. Sometimes they even vote to save it for something bigger. It's been a great lesson in collective decision-making too.
Using Monopoly worked wonders for my kids! We play with real tax rules - 10% income tax when passing GO (instead of the full $200, they get $180), luxury tax on the fancy properties, and we even added property tax based on houses/hotels. Suddenly they understood why people try to get tax breaks! We also created "public services" with some of the tax money - if someone lands in jail, they can use the public fund to get out for free. It made taxes feel like insurance rather than just money disappearing.
Make sure you track mileage if you're going to the post office to ship items or buying supplies in person! That's deductible too and most people forget about it. I use an app to track all my drives related to my PayPal business.
Do I need to keep physical receipts for all the supplies I buy or are digital records okay? My CPA is pretty old school and I'm not sure what's actually required.
Digital records are perfectly acceptable for the IRS! I take pictures of all my receipts with my phone and organize them by month in Google Drive. Many CPAs now prefer digital because it's easier to search and organize. That said, if your CPA prefers physical copies, you might want to print them out just to make the process smoother on their end. But legally speaking, digital receipts have the same validity as paper ones as long as they clearly show the date, vendor, amount, and what was purchased.
Don't forget about the home office deduction if you make your jewelry at home! You can deduct a portion of your rent/mortgage, utilities, internet, etc. My paypal business saved me almost $2,000 in taxes last year because of this deduction.
Be careful with home office deductions though. You need a space used EXCLUSIVELY for business, not just your kitchen table where you also eat dinner. That's where a lot of people get in trouble.
I'm a tax preparer (not professional advice!) and see this ALL the time. Here are the most common reasons for discrepancies between tax software: 1. One software found a deduction/credit the other missed 2. You answered a question differently between programs 3. A state-specific credit was applied in one but not the other 4. One program incorrectly determined eligibility for something 5. Simple data entry error My recommendation: print out the full forms from both programs and compare them line by line. The difference will jump out at you! Look especially at Schedule 1 and any state-specific forms.
Is it worth paying for the deluxe or premium versions of these tax programs? I always use the free versions but wonder if the paid ones catch more deductions?
For most simple tax situations, the free versions are perfectly adequate. The paid versions add value mainly if you have more complex situations like self-employment income, rental properties, investments, or itemized deductions. The other benefit of paid versions is better support options - some offer tax pro review or the ability to chat with a tax expert if you get stuck. But if you just have W-2 income and take the standard deduction, you're generally fine with free versions. Just make sure you're using the actual free version and not getting upsold on features you don't need.
Has anyone tried FreeTaxUSA? I switched from TT last year and my refunds were nearly identical but I didn't get hit with any surprise fees at the end. Federal is free and state is like $15.
Second this! Been using FreeTaxUSA for 3 years now. When I switched from TurboTax I actually got a BIGGER refund with FreeTaxUSA because it found an education credit TurboTax missed. Plus they don't constantly try to upsell you on stuff.
Don't forget about IRS Free File! If your income is under $73,000, you can file for free through their partner sites. The program usually opens slightly before or right when tax season starts. Here's the link for when it's active: https://www.irs.gov/filing/free-file-do-your-federal-taxes-for-free Also, the AARP Foundation Tax-Aide program doesn't actually have income restrictions, though they focus on older taxpayers and those with low-to-moderate incomes. Might be worth checking if you're right on the VITA cutoff.
Thanks for the Free File link! Do you know if they handle state taxes too or just federal? I always get confused about which services include both.
Some of the Free File partners include free state returns, but not all of them. When you go to the IRS Free File site, you can see which providers offer free state filing along with federal. It varies by state too - some states have their own free filing programs separate from the federal Free File program. I'd recommend checking the specific provider details when the program opens in January. The IRS usually has a tool that helps you find which Free File option is best for your situation, and it will show whether state filing is included or not.
Here's a lifesaver tip - set calendar reminders NOW for important tax dates: - December 15th, 2024: Check IRS website for filing season announcement - January 15th, 2025: Look for local VITA/TCE site announcements - January 31st, 2025: Deadline for employers to send W-2s (start checking your mail!) - April 15th, 2025: Filing deadline! I missed the filing deadline last year too because I kept thinking "I'll do it next weekend" and suddenly it was mid-April!
Daryl Bright
One approach I've found helpful is using the specific identification method when selling investments. This lets me choose exactly which shares to sell - typically the ones with the highest basis to minimize gains. Most brokerages allow this now, and it's much more tax-efficient than FIFO or average cost methods. For tracking, I just maintain a simple spreadsheet with columns for: - Original investment date and amount - Growth (unrealized gains) - Principal withdrawals (date and amount) - Remaining principal available for tax-free withdrawal Works well for my homegrown dividend strategy and takes minimal time to maintain.
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Sienna Gomez
ā¢Do you have to notify your brokerage which specific shares you want to sell before the sale, or can you do it afterward when filing taxes?
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Daryl Bright
ā¢You need to specify which shares you want to sell at the time of the sale - you can't decide later when filing taxes. Most online brokerages have an option during the sell process where you can choose "Specific Identification" instead of FIFO (First In, First Out) or average cost. When you choose specific identification, you'll be able to select the exact lots (shares purchased on specific dates at specific prices) that you want to sell. This gives you maximum control over the tax implications of your sales and is essential for an effective homegrown dividend strategy.
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Kirsuktow DarkBlade
Has anyone here dealt with homegrown dividends in retirement accounts vs taxable accounts? I'm trying to figure out how this works with my Roth IRA where the contributions are already post-tax.
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Abigail bergen
ā¢For Roth IRAs, the withdrawal rules are a bit different. You can always withdraw your contributions (principal) tax and penalty free at any time. It's actually even simpler than with taxable accounts because you don't need to worry about specific identification of lots. The IRS considers withdrawals from Roth IRAs to come from contributions first, then conversions, then earnings. So you can just keep track of your total contributions over the years, and as long as your withdrawals don't exceed that amount, they're completely tax-free.
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