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As someone who prepares taxes professionally, I can tell you that many parents are experiencing exactly what you described this year. The reduced Child Tax Credit is a major factor - it went from $3,600 per child (temporarily expanded) back down to $2,000 per child. For two kids, that's a $3,200 difference right there! Also, check if you received advance Child Tax Credit payments in previous years. Those were paid out monthly for a while, which reduced the refund amount shown on your tax return, but gave you money throughout the year instead.
I completely forgot about those monthly payments from before! That makes so much sense now. Do you think I should adjust my withholding for this year to get more back next time?
If you want a larger refund next time, you can certainly adjust your withholding. Submit a new W-4 to your employer requesting additional withholding on line 4(c). Even an extra $50 per paycheck would give you about $1,200 more in your refund next year. Just remember that a refund is essentially an interest-free loan you're giving to the government throughout the year. Some financial advisors might suggest instead putting that extra withholding into a savings account yourself each month. But I completely understand the psychological benefit of getting a larger refund - many of my clients prefer it as a form of "forced savings.
You should double check if youre getting all the credits you deserve as a single parent. Theres the Earned Income Credit, Child Tax Credit, and Child and Dependent Care Credit. With 2 kids and your income level u should qualify for all of these.
She might not qualify for the full EIC with her income level. For 2024 filing season, EIC starts phasing out around $42,000 for a single parent with 2 kids. Her $42,800 main job plus $5,300 freelance puts her at $48,100 total income, which could reduce the EIC significantly.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you're documenting EVERYTHING during this Form 8300 audit reconsideration process. Keep records of all communications, copies of everything you send, certified mail receipts, etc. I went through this last year for my construction business and what ultimately saved me was having proof I'd actually sent in the original forms that the IRS claimed they never received. The penalties were about $35,000 and they dropped them completely once I provided proof of mailing. Also, the reconsideration took about 5 months in my case, and I did get several confusing letters during the process saying I still owed the penalties. Don't panic if that happens - just respond to each one referencing your reconsideration request.
Thanks for this tip! Did you end up getting any kind of confirmation that they received your reconsideration request? I'm worried about sending it and then it just disappearing into the void.
I did eventually get an acknowledgment letter about 3 weeks after sending my reconsideration request. It basically just said they received it and would respond within 90 days (which turned into 5 months, typical IRS). Make sure you send your request via certified mail with return receipt so you have proof they received it. I also included a cover letter specifically requesting an acknowledgment. If you don't hear anything after about 30 days, start calling to confirm they have your case in the system. This is where having that certified mail receipt becomes crucial - you can reference the delivery confirmation number.
Just went through this exact thing with Form 8300 penalties for my pawn shop. My advice - don't try to handle this yourself! The audit reconsideration process for these specific penalties is super technical. I hired a tax attorney who specializes in information reporting penalties (not one of those TV ad tax relief companies) and she got my penalties reduced from $42,000 to $4,500. Her fee was $3,000 so definitely worth it. The key was she knew exactly what documentation would constitute "reasonable cause" for my specific situation. The whole process took about 6 months from start to finish. Also, she advised me NOT to pay the penalties while we were fighting them, which turned out to be the right call in my case.
Any chance you could share what kind of documentation worked for establishing "reasonable cause"? I'm in a similar situation but can't afford an attorney right now.
As a CPA who's done dozens of these arrangements, here's what those YouTube videos NEVER tell you: 1. Cost segregation accelerates depreciation you would eventually get anyway. You're not creating new deductions, just moving them forward. 2. When you sell the property, all that accelerated depreciation gets "recaptured" at a 25% tax rate. This creates a potentially massive tax bill when you sell unless you do a 1031 exchange. 3. Documentation is EVERYTHING. I've seen clients lose audits because they claimed 100+ hours but couldn't prove it with contemporaneous records. 4. You need to be a "real estate professional" AND materially participate in each property to deduct passive losses against active income. Most W2 folks with demanding jobs fail the first test. These strategies are legitimate but much more nuanced than clickbait videos suggest.
Question about the real estate professional requirements - I've heard you need 750 hours annually in real estate activities to qualify. If my spouse does property management full-time while I keep my W2 job, does that work for us filing jointly? Or do I personally need to qualify?
Your spouse can absolutely qualify as the real estate professional while you maintain your W2 job. This is actually the most common arrangement I see with my high-income clients. As long as your spouse spends 750+ hours annually in real estate activities (and more time on real estate than any other employment), their status allows the rental losses to offset your joint income on a married filing jointly return. Just be aware that your spouse needs to be actively involved in day-to-day operations, not just nominally listed as the manager. The IRS looks closely at these arrangements, so documentation of your spouse's time and activities is crucial. Keep calendars, logs, emails, and all evidence of their involvement.
Has anyone used a short term rental property to offset W2 income and actually gotten through an IRS audit successfully? I'm worried about triggering an audit if I suddenly show huge losses against my $420k salary. Also, anyone used TurboTax to file with this kind of arrangement or do you need a specialized accountant?
I wouldn't recommend TurboTax for this. My brother tried doing this himself with TurboTax and missed several key forms and elections that would have maximized his deductions. He ended up hiring a real estate tax specialist who amended his return and found an additional $23k in tax savings he'd missed.
For what it's worth, this happens more often than people realize with post-audit CP22 notices. The IRS systems don't always properly sync up the audit adjustments with their automated billing system. One tip that helped me: when you do get through to someone, ask them to document everything in your account notes. Then request a "record of account" transcript afterward to verify the corrections were properly noted in their system.
Can you request that transcript online or do you have to call again? This whole process gives me so much anxiety.
You can request a record of account transcript online through the IRS website if you have an online account set up. Go to irs.gov, log in to your account, and request the transcript. They usually process it within 5-10 business days. If you don't have an online account, you can also use Form 4506-T to request it by mail, but that takes longer (usually 2-3 weeks). The online method is definitely faster and easier if you're already set up with an online account.
Could this be penalty and interest on top of the original amount? When did you get the CP22 compared to when you agreed to the audit results? If it's been a while, the IRS adds penalties and interest which can really add up.
The audit concluded about 6 months ago, and I just got the CP22 yesterday. But even with penalties and interest, it shouldn't double the amount in just 6 months. The notice does break down some penalties and interest but the base amount itself is showing as around $6,800 instead of the $3,800 we agreed on during the audit. So something is definitely wrong with their calculations.
The IRS penalty rate is nowhere near 100% for 6 months. Even with the failure to pay penalty (0.5% per month) and interest (federal short-term rate plus 3%, currently around 7% annually), the most the penalties and interest should add is maybe 10-15% to the original amount over 6 months. Doubling the amount definitely indicates an error.
Luca Esposito
Something important nobody's mentioned yet - if you claimed any interest income from this loan on previous tax returns, that strengthens your case that this was a legitimate loan and not a gift. If you didn't charge interest or report any, the IRS might be more suspicious about whether this was truly a loan. Also, make sure you're claiming this in the right tax year. The deduction should be claimed in the year the debt becomes totally worthless. If your brother officially closed his business last year or declared he couldn't pay you back last year, that's when you should claim it - not this year.
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Freya Thomsen
ā¢I did charge a small interest rate (like 2%) but I never actually reported it on my taxes since he never made any payments. Should I go back and amend those previous returns to show the interest I SHOULD have received, even though I didn't get it? Would that help my case or just complicate things?
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Luca Esposito
ā¢You don't need to amend previous returns to report interest you never received. In fact, doing so might raise red flags. What matters is that you had a legitimate expectation of being repaid with interest, which your loan agreement should show. The IRS follows the concept of "constructive receipt" - you only need to report income when you actually receive it or have unrestricted access to it. Since you never received any interest payments, there was nothing to report. Just focus on documenting that this was a genuine loan with the expectation of repayment, and that the debt has now become worthless.
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Nia Thompson
I'm confused about the capital loss treatment. If OP claims this $47k as a non-business bad debt, does that mean they can only deduct $3k per year? So it would take like 16 years to fully deduct the loss?
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Mateo Rodriguez
ā¢Yes, that's right. Non-business bad debts are treated as short-term capital losses, which means they're subject to the capital loss limitation ($3,000 per year against ordinary income). However, if OP has any capital gains in the same year, the loss would first offset those gains. Any remaining loss can be carried forward indefinitely to future tax years. So if OP has no capital gains, it would take about 16 years to fully utilize the $47,000 loss. But if they have capital gains in future years, they could use more of the loss carryforward each year to offset those gains without the $3,000 limitation.
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