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Don't forget that refunds for returns claiming Earned Income Tax Credit or Additional Child Tax Credit are automatically held until mid-February due to the PATH Act, regardless of when you file. The IRS does this to prevent fraud. So even if you file on day 1, if you're claiming these credits, you won't get your refund until at least February 15th.
Thanks for mentioning this! I'm not claiming either of those credits, just getting back over-withheld taxes from my bonuses. So hopefully I won't be affected by those delays.
You should be fine then! Since you're just dealing with over-withholding on bonuses and not claiming those particular credits, your refund should follow the standard timeline. Just make sure to file electronically with direct deposit selected for the fastest processing.
Pro tip: File on a Monday or Tuesday early in the morning if possible. The IRS systems get backed up later in the week and especially on weekends when everyone has time to file. I've done this for years and consistently get my refund faster than friends who file on weekends.
Can someone explain the Child and Dependent Care Credit for 2024 taxes? I spent about $8,400 on after-school care for my 9-year-old last year while I worked. I keep getting confused about how much I can actually claim and if there are income limits. The IRS website makes my head spin every time I try to figure it out.
For 2024 taxes (filed in 2025), the Child and Dependent Care Credit allows you to claim up to $3,000 in expenses for one child or $6,000 for two or more dependents. The credit percentage ranges from 20-35% of those expenses depending on your income. The percentage decreases as your income increases, with the 35% rate applying to those with AGI below $15,000. For most middle-income families, you'll get 20% of your qualifying expenses. Since you spent $8,400, you'd be limited to claiming the $3,000 maximum for one child. At the 20% rate, that would be a $600 credit. This is a non-refundable credit, so it can only reduce taxes you owe to zero, not generate a refund beyond that.
Thank you so much for explaining! That makes way more sense now. So basically even though I spent $8,400, I can only claim $3,000 of it, and then I get 20% of that amount as an actual credit on my taxes. That's much less than I was hoping for, but at least it's something.
Does anyone know which tax software is actually free? I make about $45k a year, have one W-2, rent an apartment, and take the standard deduction. Nothing complicated. But every year I start with a "free" version and somehow end up paying $75+ by the time I finish. It's so frustrating!
Check out the IRS Free File program. If your AGI is under $73,000, you can file federal taxes for free. The Free File Alliance has different providers, and some even offer free state filing too. TaxAct, TaxSlayer, and 1040Now are usually good options. Make sure you go through the IRS website (irs.gov/freefile) to access the truly free versions. If you go directly to the company websites, they often push you toward paid versions.
Has anyone compared the returns between stable value funds and treasury bills for cash parking in retirement accounts? I'm currently using my 401k's stable value option (yielding about 3.1%) but wondering if treasuries would be better since rates have gone up.
In my 401k I've been using a treasury fund for cash parking and it's currently yielding about 3.8% which beats most stable value funds I've seen. The advantage of treasuries in the current environment is they respond faster to rate changes. The downside is there can be some minor NAV fluctuation vs stable value funds which maintain stable principal.
Thanks for that insight! Do you see much day-to-day fluctuation in the NAV with your treasury fund? I'm pretty conservative with this portion of my savings so stability is important, but that extra 0.7% yield is pretty significant too. I'm guessing the stable value fund will eventually catch up to current rates, but seems like they lag quite a bit based on what you're saying.
I'm curious what everyone thinks about just using a traditional money market fund inside a 401k for cash parking. My plan offers one yielding about 4.2% right now which seems pretty competitive. Is there any reason NOT to use this approach?
Money market funds are solid for cash parking in retirement accounts. The 4.2% yield is quite good actually. The main thing to check is the expense ratio - some 401k plans offer money market funds with ridiculous fees that eat into that headline yield. Also, if you don't mind sharing, which fund is offering 4.2%? Most I've seen are in the 3.5-3.8% range.
Do NOT skip filing!! I did that for 2 years when I first started freelancing and it was the worst financial mistake ever. By the time the IRS caught up with me (they always do), my original $4k tax bill had ballooned to over $9k with penalties and interest. Plus they can hold your future refunds, put liens on your property, and even levy your bank accounts if you ignore them long enough. The stress of wondering when they'd come knocking was horrible. Just file and set up a payment plan - it's super easy online and the minimum payment can be as low as $50/month depending on how much you owe. Way better than the alternative!
Was there any trouble with the IRS beyond the financial penalties? Like did they treat you differently or make things harder because you skipped filing?
No actual trouble beyond the financial hit, but they did put me on a shorter leash for a few years. They processed my refunds more slowly the next couple years and seemed to scrutinize my returns more carefully. I also couldn't qualify for their streamlined payment plans for a while - had to provide more financial documentation. The biggest issue was honestly just the unnecessary stress and the fact that I ended up paying more than double what I would have if I'd just filed on time and set up a payment plan from the start. The interest and penalties stack up way faster than most credit cards.
Another option nobody's mentioned - you could file your taxes on time but pay with a credit card. The processing fee is around 2%, which is probably less than the IRS penalties would be. Then you can continue with your debt payoff strategy while avoiding IRS penalties. Not ideal to add to credit card debt, but if you're close to paying off your cards anyway and the interest rate on the remaining one isn't terrible, it might be mathematically better than IRS penalties + interest.
Drew Hathaway
One thing no one has mentioned yet - make sure you're calculating your cost basis correctly for the new shares. The dividend amount you report as income becomes your cost basis for the common shares you received. Also, check whether your preferred shares are from a qualified foreign corporation. That can affect whether your dividends qualify for the lower tax rate. I learned this the hard way last year when I had Canadian preferred shares and messed up the reporting.
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Jenna Sloan
ā¢Thanks for bringing up the cost basis point! Do you know if I need to track each batch of dividend shares separately for when I eventually sell? Like if I get quarterly stock dividends, do I need to track 4 different lots with different cost bases?
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Drew Hathaway
ā¢Yes, you should definitely track each distribution as a separate lot with its own cost basis and acquisition date. This becomes important when you sell, as you'll want to identify which specific shares you're selling to optimize your tax situation. Most brokers these days track this automatically in their systems, but it's good practice to keep your own records as well. I use a simple spreadsheet with distribution dates, number of shares, price per share on that date, and total value. It takes a little effort, but it makes tax time much easier, especially if you hold these investments for many years.
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Laila Prince
Has anyone dealt with fractional shares from these dividends? My broker gives me exactly $50 worth of stock each quarter which always results in some weird fractional amount like 2.371 shares. Makes my tracking spreadsheet a nightmare!
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Isabel Vega
ā¢My broker does the same thing. I round to 3 decimal places for my records and it hasn't been an issue. The IRS isn't going to come after you for rounding $50.175 to $50.18 on your taxes. Just make sure your total dividend income for the year is reasonably accurate.
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