I switched from TurboTax to FreeTaxUSA this past year and wanted to share my experience since I was in the exact same position as you - wondering if the price difference was really worth it. Here's what I found: For my situation (W-2 income, some investment gains, student loan interest, and charitable deductions), FreeTaxUSA handled everything perfectly. The interface is definitely more basic - it looks like it's from 2015 compared to TurboTax's sleek design - but it asked all the same tax questions and gave me the identical refund amount. The biggest differences I noticed: - No automatic importing of tax documents (had to manually enter my W-2 and 1099s, which took maybe 5 extra minutes total) - Less explanatory text about why certain deductions matter (but if you're comfortable with basic tax concepts, this isn't a big deal) - Zero upselling attempts, which was honestly refreshing after years of TurboTax constantly trying to sell me audit protection and other add-ons I ended up saving $85 this year ($0 federal + $15 state vs $60 federal + $40 state with TurboTax). Unless you really need the hand-holding or have an extremely complex tax situation, I'd say FreeTaxUSA is definitely the way to go. The money you save can go toward something actually useful!

I switched from TurboTax to FreeTaxUSA last year and the experience was eye-opening. I was paying around $140 annually for TurboTax Premier (needed it for investment income), and FreeTaxUSA handled the exact same tax situations for just $15 for the state return. The thing that surprised me most was realizing how much of TurboTax's "value" is really just marketing psychology. They make you feel like they're finding special deductions for you, but FreeTaxUSA covers all the same ground - IRA contributions, HSA deductions, investment losses, etc. The questions are just presented more directly without the flashy "We found another $500 in deductions!" notifications. Yes, you have to manually enter your forms instead of automatic importing, but honestly that takes maybe 10 minutes total and forces you to actually look at your tax documents instead of blindly trusting the import feature. I caught a mistake in one of my 1099s that way. My refund was identical between the two platforms when I tested them side by side. The only real difference is FreeTaxUSA doesn't try to upsell you on audit protection, credit monitoring, or other services every few screens. If you can handle entering your own W-2 information, you'll save a ton of money with no downside.

The status change from "Being Processed" to "Still Being Processed" at 8 weeks typically indicates your return has moved into extended processing - this usually means manual review is needed for something like income verification, identity verification, or credit checks. While frustrating, this is actually pretty common and doesn't necessarily mean anything is wrong with your return. Most people in your situation get their refunds within 2-4 weeks after the status change, plus interest for the delay (currently around 8%). I'd strongly recommend checking your IRS transcript online to look for specific codes like 570 (additional account action pending) or 971 (notice issued) which can give you much better insight into what's being reviewed. Try to hang in there - the waiting is brutal but you're definitely not alone in this experience!

I just went through this exact same situation a few months ago! The switch from "Being Processed" to "Still Being Processed" at 8 weeks usually means your return has moved into manual review - could be for income verification, identity checks, or just being in a backlogged queue. I know it's super stressful but try not to panic! In my case, it took about 5 more weeks after the status change, but I did get my refund plus interest for the delay. Definitely check your IRS transcript online if you haven't already - look for specific codes like 570 or 971 that can give you better insight into what's being reviewed. The waiting is absolutely brutal but most people in your situation do eventually get their refunds. Hang in there! 💪

This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I live in Oregon but work remotely for a company in New York. My 1099-NEC has New York listed in Box 6, but I've never even been to New York - all my work is done from my home office in Oregon. From what I'm reading here, it sounds like I should report this income to Oregon since that's where I physically performed the work, regardless of what Box 6 says. But I'm worried about getting audited if I don't follow what's printed on the form. Has anyone had experience with state audits over this kind of discrepancy? Should I reach out to my client to get a corrected 1099-NEC, or is it safe to just allocate the income to Oregon when I file?

Great discussion here! As someone who's been dealing with multi-state remote work tax issues for years, I want to emphasize a key point that might get lost in all the details: the "convenience of the employer" rule that some states have. While most states follow the physical presence rule (you're taxed where you physically work), a few states like New York have this "convenience rule" where they can still tax remote workers if the remote work is for the employee's convenience rather than the employer's necessity. This can override the normal Box 6 logic. Before assuming you only need to file in your home state, check if any of the states where your clients are located have convenience rules. It's not common, but it can create tax obligations even for true remote workers who never set foot in that state. The documentation everyone's mentioning becomes even more important in these cases - you need to show the remote work arrangement was required by the employer, not just your preference. Most remote workers won't hit this issue, but it's worth being aware of, especially if you're working for companies in NY, DE, PA, or CT.

I just wanted to chime in as someone who's been through this exact scenario multiple times. Code "B" is absolutely the right choice for your situation - when your 1099-B shows that cost basis wasn't reported to the IRS, that's exactly what Code "B" is designed for. One thing that might help ease your mind: this is actually a very common situation, especially with certain brokers who don't report cost basis for all types of transactions. The IRS is completely used to seeing Code "B" on Form 8949, and as long as you have your purchase records to support the cost basis you're reporting, you're in good shape. I'd also recommend double-checking your math before submitting - make sure the gain/loss you calculate by subtracting your cost basis (column e) from the proceeds (column d) makes sense based on what you remember about those trades. It's an easy way to catch any data entry errors before filing. You're doing everything correctly by selecting Box B at the top and using Code "B" for each transaction. Don't let the complexity of the instructions psych you out - your situation is straightforward and you've got all the information you need to file accurately.

I've been dealing with this same issue and wanted to share what I learned from my tax preparer. When your 1099-B shows "basis not reported to IRS," you're absolutely on the right track with Code "B" in column (f). One thing that helped me understand this better: the reason your broker didn't report the cost basis to the IRS is often because they don't have complete records of when you originally purchased the stock (maybe you transferred it from another broker, or it was gifted/inherited, etc.). But since YOU have the purchase information, you're required to report it yourself on Form 8949. The key is making sure you have documentation to back up the cost basis you're reporting. Keep your purchase confirmations, transfer statements, or whatever records show how you arrived at that cost basis number. Also, just a heads up - if any of these transactions resulted in losses and you have similar stocks, double-check that you're not dealing with wash sale rules. That would require a different code and adjustments in column (g). But for straightforward unreported basis situations like yours, Code "B" is definitely the way to go.

Don't forget to consider harvesting more losses strategically each year! If you have investments that are temporarily down but you still believe in long-term, you can sell them to capture the loss, wait 31 days (to avoid wash sale rules), and rebuy. This gives you more losses to offset any gains and potentially increase your $3k deduction against ordinary income.

One additional tip that's saved me headaches - create a simple spreadsheet or document each year that lists your starting carryover balance, any gains/losses for that year, and ending carryover balance. Even though the tax software tracks this automatically, having your own record helps if you ever need to switch software or if there's a discrepancy. I also recommend keeping detailed records of which specific investments generated your original losses. While it doesn't affect the tax calculation, it's helpful context when making future investment decisions. For a $27k loss, you'll want to be extra careful about wash sale rules if you're tempted to buy back into similar positions. The good news is that even at $3k per year, you're getting a meaningful tax benefit - that's potentially $600-900+ in tax savings annually depending on your marginal rate. Think of it as a silver lining to an unfortunate investment outcome.