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Alicia Stern

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This is such a complex situation, and I really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here! As someone who's been dealing with similar back tax issues, I wanted to add a few thoughts. First, regarding the statute of limitations - it's worth noting that while you generally can't get a refund after 3 years, the IRS can still apply overpayments as credits to other tax years even beyond that timeframe in certain circumstances. The key is how you handle the filing process. One thing I learned the hard way is that the ORDER you file multiple years matters tremendously. If you file 2017 first and request the overpayment be applied to 2018, then file 2018 showing that credit, it's processed differently than if you file them simultaneously or in reverse order. Also, don't forget about estimated tax payments you may have made for 2019 that could be applied back to 2018 if needed. The IRS has more flexibility with moving payments between adjacent tax years than most people realize. I'd strongly recommend getting everything professionally reviewed before filing - the potential savings from doing this right the first time far outweigh the cost of professional help. Missing these nuances could cost you thousands in lost credits or unnecessary penalties.

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Zainab Yusuf

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This is incredibly helpful information! I had no idea that the filing order could make such a big difference. When you mention filing them simultaneously vs in reverse order - could you elaborate on what the best approach would be for someone in the OP's situation with a 2017 overpayment and 2018 underpayment? Also, you mentioned estimated tax payments for 2019 potentially being applied back to 2018 - how does that work exactly? I thought estimated payments could only be applied to the year they were intended for. Is there a specific form or process to request that kind of reallocation? I'm dealing with a similar mess (2016-2018 unfiled) and trying to figure out the optimal strategy before I make any costly mistakes. Your point about professional review is well taken - do you have any recommendations for finding someone who specializes in multi-year filing situations like this?

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CosmicCadet

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Great question about filing strategy! For the OP's situation (2017 overpayment, 2018 underpayment), the optimal approach would typically be to file both returns simultaneously in separate envelopes but mailed on the same day. On the 2017 return, you'd check the box to apply the overpayment to the following year rather than requesting a refund. This creates a clean paper trail showing your intent. Regarding estimated payments - yes, you can request reallocation! If you made estimated payments for 2019 but later determine you owed more for 2018, you can file Form 843 (Claim for Refund and Request for Abatement) to request those payments be moved back. The IRS has some flexibility here, especially when dealing with unfiled returns being caught up. For finding the right professional, look for an Enrolled Agent (EA) who specifically advertises experience with "back tax resolution" or "unfiled returns." They're often more cost-effective than CPAs for this type of work and have specialized training in IRS procedures. Many offer free consultations where they can review your specific situation and give you a filing strategy upfront. The key is finding someone who won't just prepare the returns but will analyze the optimal approach for your multi-year situation first.

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Malik Davis

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I've been following this thread as someone who went through a very similar situation with unfiled returns from 2016-2018. One thing I want to emphasize is the importance of acting quickly once you decide to file these old returns. The longer you wait, the more interest and penalties accumulate, and you risk losing additional credits. I procrastinated for an extra year after discovering my situation, and it cost me about $800 in additional interest that I could have avoided. Also, something that helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet tracking all my payments, estimated taxes, and what I owed for each year before I started filing. This gave me a clear picture of exactly how much I could recover and helped me set realistic expectations. When I finally filed, I was able to recover about 60% of what I thought I'd lost to the statute of limitations by following a strategic filing order and including the right forms. The key was understanding that while I couldn't get cash refunds for the older overpayments, I could still use them to offset other tax debts. Don't let the complexity paralyze you - even an imperfect filing is better than continuing to let these returns sit unfiled. The IRS is generally more willing to work with taxpayers who are making an effort to get compliant.

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This is such valuable advice about acting quickly! I'm actually in this exact situation right now - discovered I have unfiled returns from 2017-2019 about six months ago and I've been paralyzed by all the conflicting information I've found online. Your point about creating a spreadsheet is brilliant - I keep getting overwhelmed trying to figure out what I owe vs what I paid in my head. Did you include estimated quarterly payments in your tracking as well? I made payments for some quarters but not others, and I'm not even sure which years they were applied to. The 60% recovery rate you mentioned gives me hope. I was starting to think I'd lost everything to the statute of limitations. When you say "strategic filing order," do you mean you filed the earliest year first, or did you file them in reverse chronological order? I keep seeing conflicting advice on this. Also, did you handle the filings yourself or work with a professional? I'm trying to decide if the cost of professional help is worth it given that I'm already facing penalties and interest charges.

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Jade Lopez

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Does anyone know if there's a way to see how close you are to the $600 threshold on PayPal? I've been selling some stuff from around the house and I'm not sure if I'm tracking it correctly.

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Tony Brooks

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You can download your PayPal transaction history as a report. Go to your PayPal activity page, click on "Statements" and then select "Activity export." Choose the date range you want to check and make sure to select "Commercial payments received" or a similar option (might vary depending on your account type). This will give you a CSV file you can open in Excel or Google Sheets. Just add up all the payments marked as "Payment Received" that are for goods and services. Remember personal payments (Friends & Family) don't count toward the threshold.

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This is really helpful information everyone! I'm in a similar situation with my small online business. One thing I'd add is that it's worth keeping detailed records of all your transactions throughout the year, not just when tax season comes around. I use a simple spreadsheet to track each PayPal payment as it comes in, noting whether it's for goods/services or personal, the amount, and what it was for. This makes it so much easier to calculate your totals and prepare for taxes, whether you hit the $600 threshold or not. Also, don't forget that if you do cross the threshold and receive a 1099-K, you can still deduct legitimate business expenses against that income - things like materials, shipping costs, PayPal fees, etc. So even if you get the form, your actual taxable income might be much lower than the gross amount reported.

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This is such great advice about keeping detailed records! I wish I had started doing this from the beginning of the year. I'm scrambling now trying to go back through months of PayPal transactions to figure out what counts toward the threshold. Do you have any tips for categorizing transactions that might be unclear? Like I sold some old textbooks - is that considered business income or just personal property sales? And what about when someone pays you back for covering their portion of a group gift - does that count as personal even if it goes through goods & services by mistake?

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Yara Sabbagh

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This has been such an incredibly helpful thread to read through! I'm about 8 months into receiving SSI and have been sitting on this exact same question for weeks. I have a bunch of old textbooks, furniture, and electronics from before I became disabled that are just taking up space, but I've been terrified to sell anything because of all the conflicting information online. What's really reassuring is seeing so many people share their actual experiences with SSI reviews where this came up, and how well things went when they had proper documentation and were transparent with their caseworkers. The distinction between selling personal items at a loss versus running a business makes so much more sense now. I think I'm going to follow the approach that seems to work for everyone here - start with a few items, create that simple spreadsheet with photos that people mentioned, keep all my eBay/PayPal records, and then proactively reach out to my caseworker to show them what I'm doing. The fact that they actually appreciate transparency rather than trying to hide things is such a relief to know. Has anyone here dealt with selling furniture specifically? I have a dining set and some other pieces that I paid probably $1200 for a few years ago, but would probably only get $200-300 for on Facebook Marketplace or similar. Just wondering if larger items like that follow the same rules as the smaller collectibles and electronics everyone's been discussing.

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Oliver Becker

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Yes, furniture follows the exact same rules as smaller items! I actually sold a bedroom set last year that I paid around $800 for and only got $150 on Facebook Marketplace. During my SSI review, the caseworker treated it exactly the same as when I sold electronics or books - they just wanted to see that it was a personal item sold at a loss. The key things that helped with furniture specifically were: 1) I took photos of the pieces while I still had them, 2) I kept screenshots of the original purchase (I had bought it online so I could pull up the order), and 3) I documented the sale price and platform I used. Facebook Marketplace actually makes this easier since you can screenshot your listing and the final sale conversation. Your numbers ($1200 original cost, expecting $200-300) make it super clear you're selling at a significant loss, which is exactly what SSA wants to see. Just document it the same way as smaller items and you should be totally fine. The fact that furniture typically depreciates so much actually works in your favor for showing it's clearly personal property conversion, not business income.

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This thread has been absolutely amazing to read through! I'm about 4 months into receiving SSI and have been in the exact same boat as so many of you - sitting on a bunch of personal items I could sell but being completely paralyzed by fear about how it might affect my benefits. What's been most reassuring is seeing actual real-world experiences from people who've gone through SSI reviews where selling personal items came up. The consistent message seems to be that proper documentation and transparency with your caseworker makes all the difference. I love how everyone emphasizes that SSA distinguishes between converting personal assets to cash (selling your own stuff at a loss) versus generating business income. I have a closet full of old clothes, shoes, and accessories that I accumulated over the years - probably spent $2000+ on everything but would be lucky to get $400-500 if I sold it all on Poshmark or similar platforms. Based on all the wisdom shared here, this should clearly qualify as selling personal items at a significant loss. My plan is to follow the approach that's worked for everyone: start with just a few items, create a simple spreadsheet with photos like people suggested, keep all my sales platform records, and then proactively contact my caseworker to show them exactly what I'm doing. The fact that transparency is actually appreciated rather than seen as suspicious is such a huge relief! Thank you all for creating such a supportive space to discuss these complex issues with real experiences rather than just theoretical advice. This is exactly the kind of community guidance that makes navigating SSI rules so much less scary!

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Mikayla, your situation with clothes and accessories sounds very similar to what I went through! I had a huge collection of work clothes and designer pieces that I couldn't use anymore after becoming disabled. The depreciation on clothing is actually really favorable for showing clear losses - I spent probably $1500 on professional wardrobe items and got maybe $200 back through Poshmark and Mercari. What really helped me was keeping track of original purchase locations and approximate dates, especially for the higher-value pieces. Even if you don't have receipts, noting things like "bought this blazer at Nordstrom in 2019 for about $120, sold for $15" creates a clear picture of personal item conversion rather than business activity. The platform records are super helpful too - Poshmark keeps really detailed sale histories that you can easily screenshot for your documentation. I found their interface actually makes it easier to track everything compared to eBay since it's specifically designed for personal closet sales. Your approach of starting small and being proactive with your caseworker sounds perfect. From what I've experienced and heard from others here, caseworkers really do appreciate when you're upfront about this kind of activity. It shows you're being responsible about following the rules, which they view very positively. Good luck with your decluttering - it feels so good to free up space while staying completely within SSI guidelines!

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Based on everyone's responses here, it sounds like you're definitely on the right track - you don't need to check the multiple jobs box since you're only working one job currently. One thing I'd add is that if you're worried about your withholding being accurate (especially with the salary increase from $62k to $71k), you might want to run the IRS withholding calculator in a few months once you have a couple paystubs from your new job. That way you can see if you need to adjust anything for the rest of 2025. Also, keep in mind that having that gap between jobs might actually work in your favor tax-wise since your total 2024 income was probably lower than it would have been if you'd worked the full year at either salary level.

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Maya Lewis

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That's a really good point about the income gap potentially working in your favor! I hadn't thought about that angle. Since you were unemployed for a few months, your total 2024 income was definitely lower than a full year at either job would have been. Just wanted to add - when you do run that IRS withholding calculator that others mentioned, make sure you have your final paystub from your old job handy so you can enter the exact amounts that were already withheld. That'll give you the most accurate picture of whether you need to adjust anything going forward.

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LilMama23

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Great question! I went through something similar when I switched jobs last year. Everyone here is absolutely right - that multiple jobs checkbox is only for when you're working more than one job at the same time, not for sequential employment like your situation. Since you're only working one job now, you can skip that entire section. The W4 is all about setting up proper withholding going forward from your current employer, not accounting for what happened earlier in the year. One tip though - since your new job pays more ($71k vs $62k), you might want to check the IRS withholding estimator in a month or two once you have a few paystubs. The higher salary could put you in a different tax situation, and it's better to catch any underwithholding early rather than owe a big chunk next April! But for now, just fill out the W4 as if this is your only job (because it is), and you should be all set.

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This is such helpful advice! I'm actually in a similar boat - just started a new job after being laid off earlier this year, and I was stressing about the W4 form. It's reassuring to hear from someone who went through the same thing. Quick question though - when you mention checking the IRS withholding estimator in a month or two, do you enter info from both your old job AND your new job for 2024? Or just focus on the new job since that's what's affecting your 2025 withholding? I want to make sure I'm doing this right!

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Zainab Ahmed

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One more thing - did your 1099-INT from Robinhood have any entries in Box 2 (Early withdrawal penalty)? I'm also an NRA and noticed that even though the interest itself is exempt, if there are any early withdrawal penalties, those are handled differently.

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Connor Byrne

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Not OP but I had this exact situation. Box 2 early withdrawal penalties actually reduce your taxable income even if the interest itself isn't taxable for NRAs. Kind of a weird situation where you might want to file just to claim that deduction if it's substantial.

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Omar Zaki

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I want to add something important that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you have the proper documentation to support the NRA exemption. Even though the interest is generally exempt, you should keep records showing your non-resident status. If Robinhood didn't have your proper tax status on file (Form W-8BEN), they might have withheld taxes at 30%. In that case, you'd actually need to file Form 1040NR to get a refund of the overwithholding, even though the underlying interest income isn't taxable. Also, double-check that your 1099-INT specifically shows interest from bank deposits versus money market funds. While both are typically exempt for NRAs, the specific exemption sections are different and it's good to understand exactly which applies to your situation.

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StarSailor

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This is really helpful advice about the W-8BEN form! I just checked my Robinhood account and I'm not sure if I ever submitted proper tax documentation when I opened it. How do I verify if they have my correct NRA status on file? And if they withheld taxes that I shouldn't have paid, is there a deadline for filing the 1040NR to get the refund?

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