


Ask the community...
Something else to consider - if your kids' trust is a "simple trust" vs a "complex trust," it might change how things work. With my kids' trust, it was set up as a simple trust where all income must be distributed, so the entire amount was reportable on their returns once distributed. Also don't forget about the "kiddie tax" which might apply. If your kids have unearned income over $2,300 (for 2025), part of it could be taxed at your rate rather than theirs. Given the amounts you mentioned, you might not hit that threshold, but it's something to watch if the trust income increases.
Thanks for bringing that up. Do you know if there's an easy way to tell if it's a simple or complex trust? The paperwork I have doesn't specifically say either way.
You can usually determine if it's a simple or complex trust by looking at the trust document itself. A simple trust requires that all income be distributed annually to beneficiaries, doesn't allow for charitable contributions, and doesn't distribute principal. A complex trust has more flexibility - it can accumulate income, make charitable contributions, or distribute principal. The K-1 form might also give you clues. If you see distributions of corpus (principal) or if some income is being retained in the trust rather than distributed, it's likely a complex trust. You could also ask the trustee directly - they should definitely know how the trust is structured. This matters because complex trusts might distribute both income and principal, and principal distributions generally aren't taxable to the beneficiary.
Is anyone using tax software to file for their kids' trust income? I tried using TurboTax last year and it got super confusing with the K-1 information from my daughter's trust.
I've used H&R Block's software for my son's trust income and found it worked pretty well. It has a specific section for K-1 entries and walks you through each line item. Much more straightforward than trying to figure it out manually. TaxSlayer also has decent K-1 support for a lower price if you're looking for alternatives.
14 Something nobody's mentioned yet - your work-study income of $3500 IS earned income already! Work-study is treated as employment income because the student has to work for it. So that portion is definitely earned income and counts toward the earned income requirements for tax credits. Only the $2000 scholarship/grant would potentially be unearned income if it's taxable. Just wanted to make sure that was clear since it affects your calculations.
1 Oh that's an important point I hadn't considered! So are you saying that the $3500 work-study might already be enough earned income to maximize our Additional Child Tax Credit without needing to make the scholarship taxable?
14 It depends on your total tax situation and other income. The refundable portion of the Additional Child Tax Credit is calculated as 15% of earned income above $2,500, up to the maximum credit amount. So with $3,500 work-study, that's $1,000 above the $2,500 threshold, which would give you $150 in refundable credit (15% of $1,000). If you need more than $150 of the refundable portion, then you might consider other options, but making the scholarship taxable won't help since it's not earned income. And as others pointed out, it could hurt your Premium Tax Credit. Your best bet is to run the calculations both ways with actual tax software to see which approach gives your family the best overall result.
3 Just a heads up - for 2025 the filing threshold for dependents with unearned income is actually $1,300, not $1,250 like someone mentioned above. But the point still stands - if you make the $2000 scholarship taxable, your son would need to file. Another thing to think about - if your son doesn't need to file but you're considering having him file anyway to get some withholding back, that ALSO makes his income count toward the household income for Premium Tax Credit. The rule is that household income includes income of anyone REQUIRED to file a return, not just anyone who does file.
Just to add something that hasn't been mentioned yet - be careful with what some "business gurus" say about creating losses just to reduce taxes. While maximizing legitimate deductions is smart, manufacturing fake expenses or artificially inflating real ones is tax fraud. When he talks about showing "cost/loss of income" to "owe less and get back more," be careful. What's legal is timing your legitimate expenses strategically - like buying that new embroidery machine in December instead of January if you need the deduction this year. What's not legal is making up expenses or claiming personal costs as business expenses. Remember, the goal of a business is to make profit! Paying some tax on profit is better than having no profit at all.
Thanks for this clarification - that makes a lot of sense. I think what I was trying to understand is more about the timing of purchases and legitimate ways to reinvest in the business. Definitely not looking to do anything sketchy or illegal! So for example, if I'm planning to buy that embroidery machine anyway, buying it in December vs January could make a tax difference?
Exactly right! That's legitimate tax planning. If you're going to buy that $5,500 embroidery machine anyway, and you've had a profitable year, purchasing in December lets you deduct it from this year's income (assuming you place it in service before year-end). Remember too that reinvesting profits in your business (buying new equipment, upgrading systems, purchasing inventory) naturally reduces your taxable income because these are legitimate expenses or depreciable assets. This is the legal and proper way to "reduce" taxable income - by growing your business with real expenses, not manufacturing fake ones.
Quick tip from someone with an embroidery business: keep VERY detailed records of your thread usage by client/project. I got audited last year and they questioned my thread deductions because I didn't have good documentation of how much was used for business vs. personal projects. Same with fabric - if you use similar materials for personal and business purposes, make sure you have a system to track what's what!
Just wanted to share a quick tip that my tax accountant gave me for handling multiple jobs: you can also just have extra withholding taken from your main job. If you look at line 4(c) on your W-4, you can specify an additional amount to withhold from each paycheck. This is often easier than trying to get the withholding perfect at both jobs. For example, with your $58k main job and $17k side job, you might want about $60-75 extra withheld per biweekly paycheck from the main job. That way your second job can just withhold at the normal rate and you don't have to mess with their payroll system.
How did you come up with that $60-75 figure? Is there a simple calculation to determine the right extra withholding amount?
It's a rough estimate based on the tax brackets. When you have a second job that makes about 25-30% of your main job's income (like the $17k vs $58k in this case), you're typically looking at withholding an extra 22% of the second job's income (since that income is "stacked" on top of your main income and falls into your highest marginal tax bracket). $17,000 Ć 22% = $3,740 extra tax needed per year. Divide by number of pay periods (usually 26 if biweekly) = about $144 per paycheck. But you can withhold less if your second job is already withholding something, which is why I suggested $60-75 as a starting point. The IRS Withholding Calculator will give you a more precise figure based on your specific situation.
I'm confused about something - when I file my taxes, don't they look at the total income anyway? Like if I get W-2s from both jobs, won't it all just work out when I file even if I didn't change my withholding? I might owe money but it's not like I'm evading taxes right??
You're correct that it all gets reconciled when you file - you're not evading taxes by having multiple jobs. The issue is just that you might end up with a large tax bill instead of getting a refund. If the amount you owe is large enough (generally over $1,000), you might also face underpayment penalties from the IRS.
AstroAdventurer
One important thing nobody has mentioned yet - if you continue filing separately, make sure you're optimizing WHO claims the child. Since the higher-earning spouse (you) would get more value from the tax benefits, if you stick with MFS, you should probably claim the child on your return. Also, be aware that some states don't recognize married filing separately status the same way the federal government does. For example, in some states, you must file the same way at state level as you do federally, while others require joint filing at state level regardless of federal status.
0 coins
Zainab Omar
ā¢This is really helpful - I hadn't even thought about who should claim our daughter if we stay with MFS. Is there any downside to me claiming her instead of my wife?
0 coins
AstroAdventurer
ā¢There's no downside to the higher-earning spouse claiming the child in most cases. The value of exemptions and credits typically increases with income (up to certain thresholds). If you're in a community property state (AZ, CA, ID, LA, NV, NM, TX, WA, or WI), there may be additional considerations since income and deductions often must be split equally regardless of who earned what. Check your state's specific rules as they can significantly impact your overall tax situation when filing separately.
0 coins
Javier Mendoza
Don't forget about healthcare considerations too! If either of you gets insurance through the Marketplace with premium tax credits, MFS will make you ineligible for those subsidies (with very limited exceptions). That could be thousands more per year in insurance costs.
0 coins
Emma Wilson
ā¢Also retirement account options! If your income is too high for Roth IRA contributions when filing jointly, filing separately actually makes it worse, not better. The income limit for MFS is just $10k!
0 coins