


Ask the community...
Here's what my CPA taught me: don't overthink this. Use the assessment closest to when you started renting it out, and be consistent going forward. Unless your land values changed dramatically (like double or half the value), the difference in depreciation will be minimal over time. Just document which assessment you used and why, and keep that documentation with your tax records. The real flag for IRS is inconsistency or changing methods without good reason.
But what if there is a huge difference? My assessment from January valued the land at 120k, but the July one (closer to when I started renting) suddenly jumped to 180k due to some county-wide reassessment. That's a big difference in depreciable basis!
In that case, where there's a substantial difference that materially affects your tax liability, you should definitely go with the most accurate assessment closest to your placed-in-service date. The July assessment would be appropriate since it reflects the most current valuation when you began renting. For significant changes like you described, it's also worth consulting with a tax professional who specializes in real estate to ensure you're taking the right approach. You might even want to get a private appraisal that specifically breaks out the land value as of your placed-in-service date to have solid documentation if the IRS ever questions your depreciation calculations.
Something no one's mentioned yet - check if your closing documents from when you purchased the property already have a land value allocation! When I bought my rental, the settlement statement had a specific allocation between land and improvements that my title company determined based on the county assessor's data. My accountant said that's perfectly acceptable documentation for setting up depreciation.
This is good advice! My HUD-1 settlement statement had this breakdown too. Made it super easy come tax time. Always check your closing docs first before digging through property tax records.
Dont forget to track your mileage!! This is the biggest deduction most delivery drivers miss. The standard mileage rate for 2024 is 67 cents per mile, which adds up quick. I drive for doordash and saved over $3000 on my taxes just from mileage deduction. Get a tracking app on your phone NOW and start logging every mile. Also track phone bills, part of your cell data, car repairs, insulated delivery bags, etc. All that stuff is deductible on schedule C.
Wait, can you really deduct car repairs if you use your car for both personal and business? How does that work with the standard mileage deduction? I thought it was one or the other?
You're absolutely right about the standard mileage rate vs. actual expenses - it's one or the other. If you take the standard mileage rate (which is 67 cents per mile for 2024), that's meant to cover gas, insurance, repairs, depreciation, etc. If your car costs are really high, you can instead choose to deduct actual expenses, but you'll need to track everything and then deduct the business percentage. For most people, especially with older vehicles, the standard mileage rate is simpler and often more beneficial. Just make sure you're keeping a detailed mileage log either way!
DONT LISTEN TO PPL SAYING U NEED SCHEDULE C!!! If u made less than $12,000 u can use the simple schedule C-EZ form instead. Way easier and less pages!!!
This information is outdated. The IRS eliminated Form Schedule C-EZ after the 2019 tax year. All self-employed individuals now use the regular Schedule C, regardless of income amount or business complexity. The good news is that most tax software makes filling out Schedule C pretty straightforward, even for simple situations. Just answer the questions the software asks, and it will complete the form properly.
Have you considered a SEP IRA instead? When I was in your situation with my single-member LLC, I found that a SEP was way easier to set up and maintain than a Solo 401k. No year-end filing requirements with the IRS (Form 5500) once your plan assets exceed $250k like with a Solo 401k. I just make my annual contributions and that's it. The downside is lower contribution limits for most income levels compared to a Solo 401k, but the simplicity might be worth it depending on your situation. I use Vanguard for mine and the setup took maybe 20 minutes online.
Thanks for mentioning the SEP IRA option! Do you know what the contribution limits are compared to the Solo 401k? And is it true there's less paperwork involved? The Form 5500 requirement for Solo 401ks once you hit $250k sounds like a potential headache.
For a SEP IRA, you can contribute up to 25% of your net self-employment income with a maximum of $66,000 for 2023. With a Solo 401k, you can contribute $22,500 as an employee plus that same 25% of income as the employer contribution, still capped at $66,000 combined. The paperwork difference is significant. With a SEP, there's no annual filing requirement regardless of account size - just set it up once and make contributions. Solo 401ks require Form 5500-EZ filing once assets exceed $250,000, which isn't super complicated but is an extra annual task. For many small business owners, the simplicity of a SEP outweighs the potential for slightly higher contributions with a Solo 401k.
Just want to share what I did with my single member LLC - I went with the Solo 401k route through Fidelity. Super easy to set up and no fees! The big advantage over a SEP IRA for me was being able to make Roth contributions for the employee portion. Don't overthink this - call Fidelity or Vanguard, tell them you want to open a Solo 401k for your LLC, and they'll walk you through everything. You'll need your EIN and some basic business info. The whole process took me less than an hour on the phone plus maybe 15 minutes filling out forms online.
You should double-check if your employer maybe checked the "Retirement Plan" box on your W-2 but you didn't select that option in TurboTax. That happened to me last year and caused the same paper filing message. Or maybe there's something in box 12 with codes like Q, R, or T that TurboTax isn't processing right. Honestly, if this is your first time filing, you might want to just go with the paper option rather than trying to fix whatever's causing the electronic filing issue. It's really not that complicated - you print, sign, and mail. Yeah, refund takes longer, but at least you know it's done right.
Thanks for the tip! I actually went back and checked my W-2 and you're right - the retirement plan box is checked but I definitely didn't select that in TurboTax. I didn't even notice that option when going through the questions. Do you remember where in TurboTax I need to go to fix this?
You should be able to find it by going back to the W-2 entry section in TurboTax. Look for a section that says something like "Does your employer offer a retirement plan?" or there might be a specific checkbox when entering your W-2 information. If you're not seeing it there, try looking in the "Deductions & Credits" section under retirement savings options. Sometimes TurboTax splits these questions into different sections which can cause these kinds of mismatches. Once you get the information entered correctly to match your W-2, the paper filing requirement might disappear.
Did you check if your state even allows e-filing through TurboTax? Some states have weird requirements or don't fully support certain tax software. I'm in Louisiana and had to paper file my state return last year even though my federal went through fine electronically. Also worth checking if your address matches exactly what the IRS has on file. Even small differences like "Street" vs "St" can trigger a paper filing requirement.
Malik Jenkins
Have you checked if your employer offers a tax withholding calculator on your employee portal? Mine does through Workday and you can actually set a "goal" for your refund amount. I have mine set to $1000 refund because I like the forced savings. Some people set it to $0 on purpose to maximize paychecks.
0 coins
Yara Assad
โขI never thought to check that! We do use Workday actually. Is this something in the benefits section or somewhere else? I'll have to poke around tomorrow. If I could set preferences that would be awesome.
0 coins
Malik Jenkins
โขCheck under the Payroll section in Workday. Look for something called "Tax Withholding" or "W-4 Elections." Most versions have a withholding calculator where you can play with different scenarios. Some even have a slider where you can choose between maximizing paychecks (0 refund) or getting a specific refund amount. It's usually in the same place where you would update your W-4 information. The calculator is pretty helpful because it shows how each change affects both your paycheck and your expected refund. If you don't see it, your HR department can tell you if this feature is enabled for your company.
0 coins
Freya Andersen
I'm surprised nobody's mentioned this yet, but a $0 refund is actually IDEAL! When you get a refund, it means you gave the government an interest-free loan all year. My accountant always tries to get me as close to $0 as possible. If your withholding is exactly matching your tax liability, that's perfect tax planning. You're maximizing your monthly cash flow without owing anything at tax time.
0 coins
Eduardo Silva
โขThis is actually a myth that needs to die. For most normal people, the "interest" you'd earn on the extra $20-40 per paycheck is minimal compared to the psychological benefit of getting a larger refund. Most people don't invest that small difference anyway.
0 coins
Freya Andersen
โขYou're missing the bigger financial picture. Even small amounts add up significantly over time, especially with compound interest. An extra $40 per paycheck is $1,040 annually that could be in your investment accounts growing instead of sitting with the IRS. But more importantly, having access to your full earnings gives you financial flexibility throughout the year. That money could go toward paying down high-interest debt, building an emergency fund, or investing in retirement accounts with tax advantages. It's about having control of your own money rather than voluntarily restricting access to it. For people struggling with cash flow issues, every dollar in their regular paycheck matters.
0 coins