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Just curious - would it work to simply continue depreciating the old HVAC on the original schedule, and then separately depreciate the new system? It seems like that would be simpler than trying to figure out disposal calculations, especially if you don't have detailed records.
No, that would be incorrect and potentially problematic in an audit. When you dispose of a depreciable asset, you must remove it from your depreciation schedule. Continuing to depreciate an asset that no longer exists is essentially claiming deductions you're not entitled to, which is a red flag for the IRS.
Another option nobody mentioned is Form 3115 (Change in Accounting Method) if you've been depreciating things incorrectly for years. I had to use this for my rental properties when I realized I had lumped together items with different class lives. It's complicated but lets you correct past mistakes without amending returns.
Form 3115 is serious overkill for this situation. That's for systematic accounting method changes, not for disposing of a single asset. It's a complex form that usually requires professional help and should be avoided unless absolutely necessary.
Make sure your tax software is properly reporting the "J" code from your 1099-R. Some free tax software might not handle the excess contribution removal codes correctly. If you input the 1099-R and it's still showing the penalty, you might need to manually override it with Form 5329. I also had a similar issue with foreign earned income and Roth contributions. The key is making sure Box 7 of your 1099-R shows both the P and J codes, and then properly filling out Form 5329 with exception code 12.
Thanks for the tip about checking the codes! My 1099-R definitely shows both P and J in Box 7. I'll make sure the software is reading both codes correctly. Did you end up having to file Form 5329 separately or were you able to include it with your regular return through the software?
Has anyone actually had the IRS challenge their Form 5329 exception for excess Roth contributions? I'm worried about audit risk if I claim the exception.
I've done this exact thing for 3 years (kept making the same mistake with foreign income and Roth contributions) and never had an issue. As long as you have documentation showing you properly removed the excess contribution, you're doing exactly what the IRS procedures specify.
Former CPA office manager here - the reason nobody answers the phone is most firms are SEVERELY understaffed right now! We had 2 receptionists quit last year and couldn't replace them. My advice is to use email but put "New Client Referral" in the subject line (even if you weren't referred). That gets flagged as high priority in most systems. Also, ask specifically about their billing practices upfront. Some firms have moved to "value billing" where they charge based on the complexity of your situation rather than hourly. This can be better for business owners as it's more predictable. If they won't discuss fees in the initial consultation, that's a red flag!
This is really helpful insider info! Do you think it's better to approach smaller local firms or larger regional ones for a small construction business? I've heard conflicting advice about which provides better personalized service.
For a small construction business, I generally recommend a mid-sized local firm rather than either extreme. The smallest firms (1-2 CPAs) often lack specialized industry knowledge and may not have the bandwidth during busy season. The largest firms typically focus on bigger clients and charge premium rates. A mid-sized local firm with 5-10 CPAs often hits the sweet spot - they typically have at least one person with construction industry expertise but still provide personalized service. They're also more likely to offer flexible billing arrangements like the flat fee model you prefer. Just make sure to ask specifically if they have other clients in construction and what percentage of their practice it represents.
Has anyone tried those online CPA services? Like the websites where they match you with a CPA? My brother used one last year and said it was cheaper than local firms, but idk if they're good for business taxes or if they just do simple returns...
I tried one of those matching services last year for my photography business. The experience was mixed - the price was better than local CPAs, but the person they matched me with didn't really understand state-specific deductions for my industry. I ended up having to explain a lot of things that I feel a more specialized CPA would have known. Might work if your situation is straightforward though.
Thanks for sharing your experience! That's exactly what I was worried about - the lack of specialized knowledge. My situation involves multiple state filings and industry-specific deductions, so it sounds like I might be better off continuing my search for a local CPA who understands my field, even if it costs a bit more.
Has anyone else noticed that TurboTax doesn't explain these things well at all? I switched to FreeTaxUSA this year and their explanations of how self-employment taxes work are so much clearer. Plus it's way cheaper for us 1099 workers.
FreeTaxUSA is good, but I switched to TaxSlayer because their self-employed package has better explanations of deductions specific to my industry. Also half the price of TurboTax.
Just wanna mention that this high percentage thing happens to tons of people with side gigs too. My first year driving for Uber I only did it part time and had a regular W-2 job. My side gig only had like $2k in taxable income after expenses but I still owed like $900 in taxes on it which looked like a 45% rate. Freaked me out until my tax guy explained thats just how self employment tax works. It all makes sense once u understand it but the tax software should explain it better.
Yara Sayegh
One thing nobody has mentioned yet - make sure you're calculating your HSA contribution limit correctly in the first place! Remember that the limit includes ALL contributions - both yours and your employer's. That's a common mistake that leads to excess contributions. For 2024, the limits are $4,150 for individual coverage and $8,300 for family coverage, with an extra $1,000 catch-up if you're 55 or older. Double-check these numbers against your situation to make sure you're not setting yourself up for another excess contribution.
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Fatima Al-Qasimi
ā¢That's actually a really good point and might be exactly how I got into this mess in the first place. I didn't realize my employer's HSA match counted toward my annual limit! Is there any easy way to track this throughout the year so I don't go over again?
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Yara Sayegh
ā¢The easiest way to track it is to regularly check your HSA statements or online account. Most HSA providers show a running total of all contributions for the year, broken down by source (your contributions vs. employer contributions). Some providers also have alert features you can set up to notify you when you're approaching your limit. Otherwise, I'd recommend setting a calendar reminder to check your total contributions quarterly, especially if your employer makes irregular contributions or matches.
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NebulaNova
Quick question - when calculating earnings on the excess contribution, is there a specific formula to use? My HSA grew overall, but how do I determine what portion of that growth is attributable to the excess $$ specifically?
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Dylan Cooper
ā¢This is actually a great question! The IRS doesn't provide a specific formula, but the generally accepted method is to apply the overall account's rate of return to the excess amount. For example, if your HSA grew by 5% during the period the excess was in the account, you'd calculate 5% of your excess contribution amount to determine the earnings attributable to that excess.
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