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I may be missing something here, but I think another option might be to look at the regular home office deduction rather than the Augusta Rule. If you're using a space exclusively and regularly for business storage, you can deduct that percentage of your home expenses (mortgage interest, utilities, etc.). For example, if the storage area is 10% of your home's square footage, you can deduct 10% of those expenses. This might actually be more beneficial than trying to charge your business a "rental fee" under Section 280A(g).
Thanks for this perspective! One question though - does the storage area need to be COMPLETELY exclusive to inventory? Like, I keep most of my supplies in plastic bins that are stacked against one wall of the spare bedroom. The room is maybe 200 sq ft total, but the storage probably only takes up about 40 sq ft. Can I deduct just that portion?
The general rule is that the space needs to be used exclusively for business, but there's a special exception for inventory storage. If you're selling products as your business (which you are), and your home is the only fixed location of that business, you can deduct the space used for inventory storage even if it's part of a room. In your specific case, you could potentially deduct the 40 sq ft used for storage, not the entire 200 sq ft room. You'd calculate what percentage that 40 sq ft is of your entire home's square footage. So if your home is 2,000 sq ft total, you'd be deducting 2% (40 รท 2,000) of your eligible home expenses.
The confusion here seems to be mixing up two different tax concepts. The Augusta Rule (280A(g)) lets you rent your WHOLE home to your business for up to 14 days tax-free. This is great for business meetings, photo shoots, training events, etc. For ONGOING storage, you want the home office deduction specifically for inventory storage (different part of tax code). You can claim the actual space used even if the room isn't exclusively for business. I made this mistake and got flagged for audit! Don't try to use the Augusta Rule for year-round storage - it won't fly with the IRS.
Can you do both in the same year though? Like use regular home office deduction for the storage space, but also use Augusta Rule to rent your living room to your business for a few days for meetings?
Just to add some practical advice to this thread - make sure you're using the right forms for your situation. You'll need Schedule C for the business losses, Form 4684 for casualty losses, and Form 5329 for the early distribution from your retirement account. Also, consider if you had this organized as a sole proprietorship or if you set up an LLC/corporation, as that affects how you'll report everything.
Would it be better to file as a Schedule C business loss or just take the casualty loss directly? Does it make a difference tax-wise? I'm in a sorta similar situation with my small side business.
You'll definitely want to file Schedule C to report all your business income and expenses, including the equipment that was destroyed. The casualty loss is reported on Form 4684, but since these were business assets, the loss ultimately flows to your Schedule C. Filing the business loss on Schedule C is generally more advantageous than taking a personal casualty loss because personal casualty losses are highly restricted under current tax law (only federally declared disasters qualify). Business casualty losses don't have these same limitations and can offset your other income.
Has anyone dealt with a similar situation where the business never actually generated any income before the disaster? I've heard the IRS might consider it a hobby rather than a business if you never made any money. Would that change how these losses can be deducted?
The key difference between a hobby and a business isn't whether you made money yet, but whether you had a reasonable expectation of making a profit and were operating it in a businesslike manner. Plenty of legitimate businesses have losses in their first year or even several years.
Just a heads up from someone who went through this last year - back taxes have to be mailed in paper form! I tried to e-file my 2021 and 2022 returns through TurboTax in January and kept getting errors. Turns out once the e-file deadline has passed for a tax year, you can only submit paper returns. Also, send them via certified mail so you have proof the IRS received them! I learned this the hard way when one of my returns got "lost" and I had no way to prove I had sent it.
How long did it take to get your refund after mailing in the paper returns? And did you mail them all together or separately?
It took about 12 weeks to get my refund after mailing in the paper returns. That's much longer than the typical 21 days for e-filing, but expected for paper returns. The IRS is still working through backlogs. I mailed each tax year in separate envelopes to different processing centers. The IRS has different mailing addresses depending on your state and the tax year, so definitely check the IRS website for the correct address for each return. Don't bundle them together - each year needs to go to the specific processing center for that tax year.
Don't forget that if you're owed a refund, you only have 3 years to claim it! So for your 2021 taxes, you'd need to file by April 15, 2025 or you lose that refund forever. If you OWE money instead, there's no time limit for the IRS to collect, but penalties and interest keep accruing the longer you wait to file. I back filed 4 years of taxes in 2023 and the process wasn't as bad as I expected!
What software did you use for your back filing? I'm trying to figure out the most affordable option since I have to do multiple years.
This exact thing happened to me! Here's what you need to do - in your tax software, you need to go back and make sure you're indicating that your Traditional IRA contribution is NON-DEDUCTIBLE. Most software has a specific question about this. If you don't mark it as non-deductible, the software assumes it's deductible, and then logically taxes you when you convert to Roth (since you'd be moving pre-tax money to a post-tax account). The key sequence matters too: 1. Enter Traditional IRA contribution 2. Mark it as NON-DEDUCTIBLE 3. Enter the Roth conversion If you do these in the wrong order in some software, it can mess up the 8606. I've been doing Backdoor Roth for 7 years and had this issue once when I switched tax software.
Thank you for the specific steps! This makes a lot of sense. I checked my tax software again and I think I discovered the issue - there's a specific question about "Do you qualify to deduct your IRA contributions?" that I must have answered incorrectly. Previous years I knew to say "No" but this year with the job change and severance, I might have clicked "Yes" by mistake. I'll try redoing those steps in the correct order. Would it also make sense to just delete all my IRA entries and start fresh with these steps in mind?
Yes, I'd recommend deleting all the IRA-related entries and starting fresh. That's the cleanest approach. Some tax software doesn't handle corrections well when it comes to the 8606 form. When you restart, just follow those steps in order. The key is definitely that "Do you qualify to deduct" question - that's the exact one that determines how the software handles everything downstream. Always answer "No" for a backdoor Roth strategy since the whole point is you're over the income limits for deductible contributions. And don't worry about the severance - it's just regular income. It doesn't change how backdoor Roth contributions work. The W-2 Box 13 check is typically for retirement plan participation at that employer, which is separate from your individual IRA strategy.
Has anyone else noticed that Backdoor Roth reporting seems to be getting more scrutiny from the IRS lately? I did mine the same way for years but got a letter asking for clarification on my 2022 return. Make absolutely sure your 8606 is filled out correctly.
I haven't heard about increased scrutiny, but I can tell you that reporting Backdoor Roth incorrectly is definitely a red flag. When your 1099-R shows a distribution (the conversion) but there's no corresponding basis tracking on Form 8606, it creates a mismatch that their systems can easily detect.
QuantumQuest
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - double-check that your FUTA payments were applied to the correct tax periods when you made them through EFTPS. I had an issue where I made back payments but didn't properly designate the tax year, so they applied everything to the current year. This created a whole new headache because the system showed overpayment for the current year and still showed deficiencies for the prior years. Had to call and have them reallocate the payments to the correct periods.
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Nia Thompson
โขThanks for mentioning this! I'll double check my EFTPS payments right away. Did you have to do anything special to get them to reallocate the payments to the correct years?
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QuantumQuest
โขYou'll need to call the IRS Business Tax line and specifically request a payment transfer. Have your EFTPS confirmation numbers ready along with the dates of the payments and the tax periods they should be applied to. I found it helpful to prepare a simple spreadsheet showing the payment date, amount, confirmation number, and which tax period each payment should apply to. The agent I spoke with appreciated having all the information organized, and it made the process much smoother.
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Jamal Anderson
Just want to add that if you do get hit with penalties and decide to request abatement, make sure to explicitly state whether you're requesting "First Time Abatement" or "Reasonable Cause" relief. They're processed differently by the IRS. First Time Abatement is usually easier to get but only applies if you haven't had penalties in the prior 3 years. Reasonable Cause requires you to demonstrate why you couldn't comply despite using ordinary business care and prudence.
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Mei Zhang
โขWhat's the best way to word a reasonable cause request? My situation was similar but I'm not eligible for first time abatement.
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