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One thing nobody's mentioned yet is business insurance. I'm a mobile dev contractor too, and I deduct my E&O (errors and omissions) insurance as well as general liability insurance. Both are 100% deductible business expenses, and they protect you if a client ever claims your app caused them financial damage or has security issues. Also look into SEP IRA or Solo 401(k) - as a 1099 contractor you can contribute WAY more to retirement than you could as a W-2 employee, and those contributions are tax-deductible. I put about 20% of my contract income into my Solo 401(k) last year and saved a ton on taxes.
I hadn't even thought about insurance or retirement accounts! Do you have recommendations for affordable E&O insurance for a solo developer? And for the Solo 401(k), can I set that up myself or do I need to go through a special provider?
For E&O insurance, I use Hiscox which has reasonable rates for solo developers - usually $500-1000/year depending on your projects. Some clients actually require this in contracts, so it's worth having anyway. For the Solo 401(k), you can set it up yourself through providers like Fidelity, Vanguard, or Charles Schwab for free. The paperwork is a bit involved but not terrible. The huge advantage is you can contribute both as the "employee" (up to $22,500 in 2023) AND as the "employer" (up to 25% of your net earnings) for a much higher total than regular IRAs allow. Just make sure you set it up before December 31st of the tax year you want to use it for.
Don't forget about the QBI deduction (Qualified Business Income)! As a self-employed person, you might qualify for an additional 20% deduction on your business income. It's on top of all your regular business deductions. The rules are complicated based on income thresholds, but most developers I know qualify. This is literally free money that a lot of first-time contractors miss. I almost overlooked it my first year until my accountant caught it - saved me about $5,800 in taxes!
Has anyone considered getting a part-time W2 job to offset some of the SE tax burden? I'm currently doing this - 20 hrs at a coffee shop plus my freelance work - and it helps because I'm not paying SE tax on that portion of my income.
This actually makes sense mathematically but seems like a lot of extra work just to avoid taxes. Wouldn't it be better to just charge more for your freelance work to cover the tax difference?
If you're in a common law marriage in Texas, DEFINITELY file jointly! This was a huge help for me and my partner. My self-employment income combined with her W-2 income put us in a better overall tax situation, plus her withholding throughout the year covered a lot of what we owed. Don't hesitate on this one.
One thing nobody has mentioned is that contribution limits for HSAs in 2025 are going up to $4,150 for individual coverage and $8,300 for family coverage. If you're under 55, that is. There's an extra $1,000 catch-up contribution allowed if you're 55+. Make sure you don't go over these limits or you'll have to deal with excess contribution penalties (6% tax on the excess amount). Your employer contributions COUNT toward these limits too! That tripped me up my first year.
Do you know if converting from an FSA to HSA mid-year affects the contribution limits? My company is switching our health plans in July and I already contributed to an FSA.
Yes, it definitely affects your contribution limits. When you switch from an FSA to HSA mid-year, you generally have to prorate the HSA contribution limit based on the number of months you're eligible. If you make a mid-year switch, you can only contribute 1/12 of the annual limit for each month you're HSA-eligible. However, there's something called the "last-month rule" that might help - if you're HSA-eligible on December 1, you can potentially contribute the full year's limit, but you must remain HSA-eligible through December of the following year (called the testing period) or face penalties on the accelerated portion.
I think people are overcomplicating this. I use FreeTaxUSA for my taxes and it asks simple questions about my HSA that make it super easy. No need to manually fill out Form 8889 or anything like that. The software does it automatically based on your W-2 info and any additional contributions you made outside your payroll.
Does FreeTaxUSA handle situations where you've changed jobs mid-year and have HSA contributions from two different employers? That's what I'm dealing with now.
Another important difference is that with a 401k, your employer might match some of your contributions (free money!!!), but IRAs don't have any matching. Also, if you leave your job, you'll need to decide what to do with your 401k - either leave it there, roll it to your new employer's plan, or roll it to an IRA.
Can you contribute to both a 401k and an IRA in the same year? And if I already have a 401k at work, can I still deduct traditional IRA contributions?
Yes, you can definitely contribute to both a 401k and an IRA in the same year. They have separate contribution limits. Whether you can deduct traditional IRA contributions when you have a 401k depends on your income. For 2025, if you're single and your modified AGI is below $78,000, you can take a full deduction. Between $78,000-$88,000, you get a partial deduction. Above $88,000, no deduction. For married filing jointly, the phase-out range is $123,000-$143,000. Even if you can't deduct it, you could still do a non-deductible IRA contribution and then convert to Roth (the backdoor Roth strategy).
Don't forget another major difference - with a 401k you're usually limited to whatever investment options your employer's plan offers, which might be pretty limited and have higher fees. With an IRA you can open it anywhere (Vanguard, Fidelity, etc) and choose from thousands of investment options. That's why many people max their 401k up to any employer match, then contribute to an IRA, then go back to the 401k if they still have money to save.
Does it make more sense to max out your 401k first or your IRA first? My company matches the first 5% in my 401k but the investment options aren't great.
Malik Johnson
Everyone's giving good advice about the mechanics, but I want to add something important: make sure you keep VERY detailed records of all these different improvements and their costs. I got audited last year specifically on my rental property depreciation. The IRS questioned my allocation between 5, 15, and 27.5 year property. I had to provide receipts showing exactly what was spent on the driveway, landscaping, appliances, etc. Without those receipts, they would have disallowed some of my depreciation deductions. Also worth noting that the tax software I was using didn't make it very clear how to properly separate these different types of improvements. I ended up having to manually override some calculations.
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Isabella Ferreira
ā¢Do you think it's worth hiring a CPA who specializes in real estate for the first year at least? I'm concerned I'll mess this up, and it seems like getting it right from the start would be easier than fixing it later.
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Malik Johnson
ā¢Absolutely worth hiring a real estate specialized CPA at least for the first year. They'll set up your depreciation schedules correctly from the beginning, which makes future years much easier. The upfront cost of a good CPA is nothing compared to the potential headache of incorrectly calculated depreciation that might need to be fixed through amended returns. Plus, a real estate CPA will know about deductions and strategies you might miss on your own. My biggest regret was trying to DIY my rental taxes for the first few years - I missed several legitimate deductions and had to go back and amend returns once I finally got professional help.
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Ravi Sharma
Quick question - I've heard about something called "component depreciation" or "cost segregation" where you can break down a property into even more components to accelerate depreciation. Is that related to this 15-year vs 27.5-year question? My buddy said he saved a ton on taxes doing this.
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Keisha Williams
ā¢Yes, what you're referring to is a cost segregation study, which is essentially a more detailed version of what we're discussing. A professional cost segregation study identifies many building components that can be depreciated over 5, 7, or 15 years instead of 27.5 years. This might include electrical systems, plumbing, specialized flooring, cabinetry, and many other components. The benefit is accelerated depreciation deductions, meaning larger tax savings in the early years. However, a formal cost segregation study typically makes financial sense only for properties valued at $500,000+ because of the cost to have it professionally done. For smaller properties, you can still segregate obvious components (like appliances and land improvements) without a formal study, but you won't be able to get as detailed with building components.
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