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15 A bit off-topic, but make sure you're aware that the refund will be sent as a paper check, not direct deposit. The IRS only does direct deposit for current year returns filed during the regular tax season. For some reason they don't make this clear anywhere!

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7 Wait really? That's important to know since I've moved twice since 2020. Do I need to update my address with the IRS before sending the old return?

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15 Yes, you should definitely update your address with the IRS before filing your old return. You can do this by completing Form 8822 (Change of Address) and mailing it in before you send your tax return. This ensures your refund check will go to the right place. If you've already sent in your return with an old address, you can still submit Form 8822 afterward, or you can call the IRS directly to update your address. The IRS will usually forward tax refund checks for up to one year if you have mail forwarding set up with USPS, but it's much better to make sure they have your current address on file.

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11 I'm facing a similar issue but with 2019 taxes - am I completely out of luck for getting that refund now?

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12 Unfortunately, yes. For 2019 taxes, the deadline to claim a refund was April 18, 2023 (three years from the original due date). The IRS is very strict about this three-year rule for refunds - once that window closes, any unclaimed refund money goes to the U.S. Treasury, and you can't get it back.

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One thing nobody mentioned - if you're expecting to owe, start putting money aside NOW, even before you file. I learned this the hard way! Even $50 a week between now and April will add up. Another option: if your tax software offers a "pay with refund" option where they take their fee from your refund, DO NOT DO THIS if you owe money! I made this mistake my first time. There's no refund to take the fee from, so you'll end up owing the tax prep fee too. Try to use a free filing option instead since your situation sounds relatively simple.

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Thanks for the advice! I've actually already started putting some money aside each paycheck, but probably not enough. When you say use a free filing option - are there specific ones you'd recommend for someone with just a regular W-2 job and nothing complicated?

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For a simple W-2 situation, the IRS Free File program is your best option. They partner with tax software companies to provide truly free filing if your income is below a certain threshold (around $73,000). I personally used FreeTaxUSA which has a free federal option for any income level and only charges about $15 for state filing. Avoid the big companies that advertise "free" but then try to upsell you on everything. If all you have is W-2 income and standard deduction, you honestly don't need anything fancy. The IRS website has a tool to help you find legitimate free options based on your situation.

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Omar Zaki

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Just wanna add that if you REALLY can't pay by April 15, make sure you still file your return on time and pay whatever you can. The failure-to-file penalty is 5% of your unpaid taxes each month, while the failure-to-pay penalty is only 0.5% per month. Big difference! I made the mistake of not filing because I couldn't pay, and ended up owing wayyy more in penalties. Don't be like me lol.

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AstroAce

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This is such important advice! Also worth knowing that if you file for an extension (Form 4868), you get until October 15 to FILE, but you still need to PAY by April 15. The extension only gives you more time to submit paperwork, not to pay what you owe.

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Connor Byrne

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Don't forget to factor in the state tax component too! Federal capital gains is just part of the picture. Depending on your state, you might be paying anywhere from 0% to 13.3% (looking at you, California) on top of federal capital gains. My wife and I sold a vacation cabin last year and were shocked at the state tax bill. Make sure you're setting aside enough from the sale proceeds to cover both federal and state obligations. Your state might also have different rules about separate vs. marital property.

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Yara Elias

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Do all states tax capital gains? I thought some states like Florida and Texas don't have income tax, so would they still tax capital gains from property sales?

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Connor Byrne

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You're absolutely right - states without income tax generally don't tax capital gains either. Florida, Texas, Wyoming, Nevada, South Dakota, Washington, Alaska, and New Hampshire don't have state income taxes, so you wouldn't pay state-level capital gains taxes in those locations. However, even in those states, you still need to pay the federal capital gains tax. And some states have other property-related taxes or transfer taxes when selling real estate that could still impact your total tax burden.

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One thing nobody's mentioned is that you should definitely keep track of all the capital improvements you made to the property since your wife inherited it. Things like a new roof, HVAC system, significant remodeling, etc. all increase your cost basis and reduce the capital gain. We sold our lakehouse last year and our tax guy saved us thousands by having us document all the improvements we'd made over the 10 years we owned it. We increased our basis by over $45k which significantly reduced our tax bill.

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Are routine maintenance costs considered capital improvements? Like, if I replaced the water heater or fixed a leaky roof, does that count? Or only major renovations?

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Aidan Percy

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - if you're making garden boxes regularly, even just a few times a year, you might want to consider liability issues. If someone gets injured by one of your products, you could be personally liable without a business structure like an LLC. I make custom furniture as a side hustle and formed an LLC for exactly this reason. It's not just about taxes - it's about protecting your personal assets if something goes wrong. The paperwork isn't that bad, and the peace of mind is worth it.

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Fidel Carson

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That's a good point I hadn't considered. How much does it typically cost to set up an LLC? And does it make taxes more complicated?

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Aidan Percy

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The cost varies by state - I'm in Ohio and paid about $99 for the filing fee. Some states are cheaper, some more expensive (California is like $800/year!). You'll also need to file an annual report in most states which usually costs $25-50. For taxes, it's actually not more complicated if you're a single-member LLC. The IRS treats it as a "disregarded entity" by default, meaning you still just file Schedule C with your personal return. No separate tax return needed. You get the liability protection without the tax complexity. Just make sure you keep business funds separate from personal (get a business checking account), and maintain good records. The separation helps reinforce the liability protection. Worth every penny for the peace of mind, especially when you're making products people use in their daily lives.

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Everyone's talking about the business side but missing something important about the Form 8300 - it's not just about cash vs. checks. The form is for CASH transactions over $10k, but there's another form - Currency Transaction Report (CTR) that banks file when you deposit over $10k. You don't file this, the bank does. Just be aware the bank will likely file this form when you deposit the $13.5k check. This is normal and routine, nothing to worry about. But if you start breaking up large deposits into smaller ones to avoid this reporting (called "structuring"), that's actually illegal.

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This is a really important distinction. The CTR is filed by banks for cash OR monetary instruments over $10k. But the bank handles this, not you, and it's completely routine. As long as you're depositing legitimate income and reporting it on your taxes, there's absolutely nothing to worry about. The only time people get in trouble is when they deliberately try to avoid these reports by making multiple smaller deposits. Don't do that and you're fine!

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Everyone's giving good advice about the mechanics, but I want to add something important: make sure you keep VERY detailed records of all these different improvements and their costs. I got audited last year specifically on my rental property depreciation. The IRS questioned my allocation between 5, 15, and 27.5 year property. I had to provide receipts showing exactly what was spent on the driveway, landscaping, appliances, etc. Without those receipts, they would have disallowed some of my depreciation deductions. Also worth noting that the tax software I was using didn't make it very clear how to properly separate these different types of improvements. I ended up having to manually override some calculations.

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Do you think it's worth hiring a CPA who specializes in real estate for the first year at least? I'm concerned I'll mess this up, and it seems like getting it right from the start would be easier than fixing it later.

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Absolutely worth hiring a real estate specialized CPA at least for the first year. They'll set up your depreciation schedules correctly from the beginning, which makes future years much easier. The upfront cost of a good CPA is nothing compared to the potential headache of incorrectly calculated depreciation that might need to be fixed through amended returns. Plus, a real estate CPA will know about deductions and strategies you might miss on your own. My biggest regret was trying to DIY my rental taxes for the first few years - I missed several legitimate deductions and had to go back and amend returns once I finally got professional help.

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Ravi Sharma

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Quick question - I've heard about something called "component depreciation" or "cost segregation" where you can break down a property into even more components to accelerate depreciation. Is that related to this 15-year vs 27.5-year question? My buddy said he saved a ton on taxes doing this.

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Yes, what you're referring to is a cost segregation study, which is essentially a more detailed version of what we're discussing. A professional cost segregation study identifies many building components that can be depreciated over 5, 7, or 15 years instead of 27.5 years. This might include electrical systems, plumbing, specialized flooring, cabinetry, and many other components. The benefit is accelerated depreciation deductions, meaning larger tax savings in the early years. However, a formal cost segregation study typically makes financial sense only for properties valued at $500,000+ because of the cost to have it professionally done. For smaller properties, you can still segregate obvious components (like appliances and land improvements) without a formal study, but you won't be able to get as detailed with building components.

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