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Just want to add - I'm a delivery driver too and I track all my car expenses with the Stride app. Even if you can't deduct the insurance directly, you could just take the standard mileage deduction instead (65.5 cents per mile for 2023). That covers gas, insurance, depreciation, everything. Way easier than tracking actual expenses and you don't need to worry about whose name is on what.
Does the standard mileage rate usually work out better than tracking actual expenses? My car is pretty old and fuel efficient but I'm driving a TON for deliveries.
In my experience, standard mileage usually works out better for newer cars or fuel-efficient vehicles. I drive about 25,000 miles a year for deliveries in a 2018 Corolla, and the standard deduction gives me around $16,000+ in deductions which is way more than I'd get itemizing. For older vehicles that might need more repairs or gas guzzlers, tracking actual expenses could potentially be better. The key is to try calculating both ways for a month and see which gives you the bigger deduction. Just remember if you choose actual expenses in the first year, you're generally stuck with that method for the life of that vehicle.
Wait, I'm confused on one thing - are you saying you personally drive the car, but the insurance is in your brother's name? Or is it his car too? Because if it's your car but just his insurance policy, that seems like a major insurance problem regardless of taxes. Insurance follows the car AND driver, and if you're the primary driver but not listed, they might deny claims anyway.
One thing to consider that I didn't see mentioned yet - if you're in a community property state, this gets even more complicated. My spouse and I were in a similar student loan situation, and we had to figure out who could claim our son while dealing with Arizona's community property laws. In community property states (AZ, CA, ID, LA, NV, NM, TX, WA, WI), income and deductions may need to be split 50/50 regardless of who earned what. This creates another layer of complexity for the married filing separately strategy.
Thanks for bringing this up! We're in Pennsylvania, which isn't a community property state. Do you know if there are any specific state-level considerations for non-community property states that might affect our decision?
For non-community property states like Pennsylvania, you generally report income and deductions based on which spouse actually earned the income or paid the expense, which is much simpler. The main state-level consideration would be your state tax rules around dependent exemptions or credits. Some states have their own child tax credits or dependent exemptions that might have different phase-out thresholds than the federal ones. Pennsylvania specifically has a relatively simple income tax system with a flat rate, but you should check if there are any dependent-related benefits at the state level that might influence your decision about who claims your daughter.
I'm surprised nobody mentioned the earned income tax credit. If the lower-earning spouse (husband in this case) claims the child, they might qualify for EITC, which you can't get if you file MFS. Might be worth running the numbers on filing separately vs jointly just to see the full picture.
Don't forget about Section 179! Depending on how you structure things and how much you use the vehicle for business, you might be able to take advantage of that rather than regular depreciation. We did this for our company truck that has our logo plastered all over it. BUT - and this is a BIG but - the vehicle has to be used for business purposes more than 50% of the time.
Does Section 179 still apply with the luxury auto limits though? I thought those kicked in regardless of whether you use 179 or regular depreciation.
You're absolutely right about the luxury auto limits - they do still apply even with Section 179 deductions. So there's a cap on how much you can deduct each year regardless of which method you choose. What's important to note is that with Section 179, you can deduct a larger amount in the first year rather than spreading it out over several years with regular depreciation. But as you mentioned, there are still annual limits for passenger vehicles regardless of which method you use. For 2025, those limits are pretty restrictive for higher-end vehicles, which is something to seriously consider when making this purchase.
One thing no one's mentioned yet is insurance implications. When I started using my personal car for business advertising, my insurance company required me to get a different policy that was more expensive. Make sure you factor that into your calculations when deciding if this is worth it!
This is really good advice. My brother put his lawn care company logo on his truck and then got into a minor fender bender. Insurance company gave him trouble because he hadn't disclosed it was being used for business purposes. Cost him a ton in the end.
Have you considered doing a cashless exercise for the NSOs? Some companies allow this where they'll essentially loan you the exercise cost and tax withholding then immediately sell enough shares to cover those costs. Means you don't need cash upfront and can still keep most of the shares. For the ISOs, if you're sure you're under the AMT threshold, I'd definitely exercise before they convert. Once they become NSOs, you lose the potential for long-term capital gains treatment on the spread.
Careful with the cashless exercise suggestion - that only works if the company is publicly traded or has some kind of secondary market for the shares. Sounds like OP's company is still private with no immediate IPO plans.
Good point about the cashless exercise - I was assuming there might be a secondary market since it's a Series D company, but you're right that it's not guaranteed. Another option to consider is a net exercise if the company allows it. With a net exercise, you surrender some of your options to cover the exercise cost, so you get fewer shares but don't have to put up any cash. Won't help with the tax withholding for NSOs though.
Anyone recommend a good tax professional who specializes in equity compensation? My accountant seems completely lost when it comes to ISO/NSO rules and AMT implications.
I've had good luck with The Startup CPA (thinkthis.com). Not cheap but they actually understand equity compensation and saved me a ton on AMT planning. Worth the fee considering how much is at stake with these decisions.
Everett Tutum
Have you checked out the IRS Direct File program? It's new this year and completely free. I think it's limited to certain states for now, but worth checking if yours is included. It handles basic investment income including Schedule B without charging.
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Misterclamation Skyblue
โขI just looked it up and unfortunately my state isn't included in the Direct File pilot program yet. Seems like it could be a good option in the future though! I'll probably go with one of the free alternatives mentioned here instead of paying for TurboTax.
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Sunny Wang
I've been using FreeTaxUSA for years and it handles Schedule B no problem. Federal is completely free regardless of which forms you need. They only charge like $15 for state filing. Way cheaper than TurboTax or H&R Block's "upgrades.
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Hugh Intensity
โขIs FreeTaxUSA actually reliable? I'm always worried about using less well-known tax software. Do they have good support if you have questions?
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