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If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


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Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


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An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


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Ask the community...

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Oliver Cheng

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FWIW, I've been investing internationally for 7 years now. For small amounts like yours, I just take the credit directly on Schedule 3 without Form 1116. But I always keep track of the total in my records so that once it gets significant (like over $100) I start filing Form 1116. Another option - if you use a cheaper tax software like FreeTaxUSA, they include Form 1116 in their basic package which is much less expensive than TurboTax's premium tier.

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Thanks for the suggestion about FreeTaxUSA! Do they handle everything else TurboTax does? I'm already halfway through my return on TurboTax but maybe I should switch for next year. And is there any downside to skipping Form 1116 when the amount is under the threshold?

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Oliver Cheng

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FreeTaxUSA handles all the same forms as TurboTax for federal filing at a fraction of the cost. Their interface isn't quite as polished but it gets the job done. Their deluxe version is only about $7 and includes priority support and audit assistance. State returns are extra though. There's no real downside to skipping Form 1116 when you're under the threshold. The only limitation is you can't carry forward unused foreign tax credits, but with just $3, that's not an issue for you. If your foreign investments grow significantly in future years, then you'll want to start using Form 1116.

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Taylor To

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Just to add another perspective - I wouldn't pay $89 for a $3 credit, that's just throwing money away. But don't just "ignore" the foreign tax either. Enter it directly on Schedule 3 like others have said. Also, look at Credit Karma Tax (now Cash App Taxes) - it's completely free and supports Form 1116 if you need it in the future.

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Ella Cofer

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Is Cash App Taxes actually reliable? I've heard mixed things. Anyone used it for investment stuff? Seems sketchy to trust a free app with complicated tax situations...

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How to Handle Vehicle Depreciation with Varied Business Use Percentages for SUVs and Trucks

My spouse and I manage several rental properties together. I have a pickup truck that I use 100% for business purposes, but my wife has an SUV with business use that changes year to year (always at least 50% though). I'm really confused about the math for depreciating vehicles with varying business use percentages, especially what happens when a vehicle is "over-depreciated" at trade-in time. Here's my situation: Back in 2017, we bought a used SUV for $32,500 which we traded in during 2021 for $15,000. During those years, the SUV was used about 65-75% for business, varying slightly each year. If I recall correctly, the SUV was depreciated well beyond the $15K we got on trade-in. Then in 2021, we bought another pre-owned SUV for $41,000 using that trade-in. The weird thing is, when I did my taxes for 2021, the cost basis of this new SUV was something like $48,000. It seemed like the over-depreciation of the first SUV somehow rolled into the second one? Is that right? If this is correct, I'm struggling to understand the logic. You buy a vehicle, take depreciation deductions that exceed actual depreciation, and when you sell it, that over-depreciation isn't recaptured but instead gets added to the cost basis of the replacement. But since this inflates the cost basis of the replacement SUV beyond what it's actually worth, that extra amount will never be recaptured and just disappears over time through depreciation. Two other questions: 1) How does varying business use percentage factor in? The last year I had the first SUV, I traded it in early in the year when I happened to have 90% business use because I was managing a distant property. The depreciation that year seemed enormous, like it was catching up to what would have happened if I'd been at 90% business use the whole time. I'm concerned about retirement - is there anything I should avoid doing that would cause tax problems later? 2) Is it financially worse if I don't replace this SUV with another heavy vehicle (6000+ GVWR)? I don't need the cash flow from accelerated depreciation. I care more about total deductions over time. Setting aside time value of money, I'd be just as happy claiming $12K/year for 5 years versus $60K in year one.

This might be a dumb question, but why are we even dealing with all this complexity? Couldn't you just take the standard mileage rate instead of actual expenses and depreciation? I've been doing that for years and it's way simpler - just multiply business miles by the IRS rate (65.5 cents per mile for 2023).

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The standard mileage rate is definitely simpler, but it's often less advantageous financially, especially for expensive vehicles or those with high business use percentages. When you use actual expenses, you can deduct depreciation, insurance, repairs, gas, etc., which frequently totals more than the standard rate. Plus, if you ever claimed actual expenses and depreciation in the first year you used the vehicle for business, you're locked into the actual expense method for the life of that vehicle. You can't switch back and forth.

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Has anyone dealt with depreciation recapture when selling a business vehicle for more than its depreciated value? I bought a pickup for $45k in 2019, depreciated it down to about $15k, and now truck values are so high I could sell it for $38k! I'm worried about a huge tax bill from recapture.

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Yes, you will face depreciation recapture, but it's not as bad as you might think. The recapture is limited to the lesser of: 1) the gain on the sale, or 2) the total depreciation you claimed. In your case, if you sell for $38k with a depreciated basis of $15k, you have a $23k gain. This gain is treated as ordinary income to the extent of depreciation taken, which means you'll pay your regular income tax rate on that amount, not the lower capital gains rate. One strategy to consider is doing another like-kind exchange into a different business property (though vehicles no longer qualify for 1031 exchanges after the 2017 tax law changes), or timing the sale to coincide with a year when you have business losses to offset the recapture income.

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Don't forget that business meal deductions changed in recent years! For 2025, business meals are still 50% deductible in most cases, but there was that temporary 100% deduction for restaurant meals during 2021-2022 that went away. Also, make sure you're tracking mileage if you drive to these business meals! That's another deduction many sole props forget about. I use an app to track all my business drives automatically.

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KaiEsmeralda

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Thanks for mentioning the mileage deduction! Do you know if I should be tracking mileage for all business-related driving? And what app do you use to track it?

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Yes, you should absolutely track mileage for all business-related driving - going to client meetings, picking up supplies, driving to business meals, etc. Just remember that commuting to a regular workplace isn't deductible. I use MileIQ for tracking, but there are several good options like Everlance and Hurdlr too. Most of these apps automatically detect when you're driving and let you swipe to categorize trips as business or personal. Super simple and creates the documentation you need for tax time.

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For business meals, my accountant told me to always write on the back of the receipt WHO i met with and WHAT business we discussed. Been doing this for 10 years and never had an audit problem. Also, don't try to claim every meal as "business" - that's asking for trouble. The IRS knows that not every lunch is a business expense lol.

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That receipt tip is gold! Do you just write directly on the physical receipt or do you scan it first and add notes digitally?

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Another option to consider is calling the IRS directly at 800-829-1040. If you explain that your W2s were returned to sender and you can't reach your employer, they can sometimes help. You'll need your social security number, personal info, and an estimate of your income/withholding (check your last paystub of the year). If your employers are being unresponsive, the IRS might even contact them on your behalf. Just be prepared to wait on hold for a long time when you call.

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Emma Morales

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Have you actually managed to get through to the IRS this way recently? I tried calling that number three times last week and couldn't get past the automated system - it just disconnected me after saying they had too many calls.

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I've gotten through in the past, but you're right that it's extremely difficult during peak tax season. Your best chance is to call right when they open (7am EST) and be prepared to navigate through several automated menus. Choose the option for "having a problem with your taxes" rather than "need forms" to increase your chances of reaching a person. I should have mentioned that this approach requires a lot of patience and might take multiple attempts. If time is crucial, some of the other options people have suggested might be faster.

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Don't forget to check if your W2s are available on the SSA website! Go to https://www.ssa.gov/myaccount/ and create an account if you don't have one. Sometimes you can view your W2 information there even if you don't have the physical forms.

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Lucas Parker

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The SSA site only shows your lifetime earnings record, not current year W2 details. That won't help with filing taxes for this year. You need the actual W2 or the IRS wage transcript.

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CosmicCadet

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One thing to watch out for with Head of Household - make sure you're actually unmarried on the last day of the tax year! I made this mistake. My divorce wasn't finalized until January 2025, and I tried filing HOH for 2024 taxes. Got a nasty letter from the IRS saying I had to amend and file as Married Filing Separately. Cost me an extra $2,300 in taxes!

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Aisha Ali

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Thank you for bringing this up! My divorce was finalized in May 2024 so I should be good for the 2025 filing. But that's definitely something important I didn't think about. Did the IRS charge you any penalties or just make you pay the difference?

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CosmicCadet

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They only made me pay the difference in taxes between HOH and Married Filing Separately, plus a small amount of interest since I paid after the filing deadline. No penalties since they determined it was an honest mistake rather than deliberate evasion. The IRS actually has a "considered unmarried" provision that might apply in some situations even if you're technically still married on December 31st, but my situation didn't qualify. If your spouse didn't live in your home for the last 6 months of the year, you might still qualify for HOH even if not technically divorced yet.

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Just be super careful with Head of Household! My brother claimed HOH for years without issue, then got audited and had to pay back $11,400! The problem? His girlfriend and her kid lived with him but weren't actually his qualifying relatives under IRS rules. Just because someone lives with you doesn't make them a qualifying dependent.

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Absolutely right. The rules for "qualifying person" for HOH are really specific. For a child to qualify, they generally need to be your son, daughter, stepchild, foster child, brother, sister, or a descendant of one of these (like a grandchild or niece/nephew). Just having a child live with you isn't enough unless you're related by blood, marriage, or adoption in most cases.

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