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Just want to add one important point - when you make that additional $150 contribution, make absolutely certain that you designate it as a 2024 contribution. If you don't specifically mark it for 2024, Fidelity will automatically count it toward 2025 since we're already in the new calendar year. Also double-check your actual contribution limit carefully. The 2024 limits were $4,150 for self-only coverage and $8,300 for family coverage. But if you're 55 or older, you get an additional $1,000 catch-up contribution. I've seen many people miss this and either over-contribute or under-contribute based on incorrect limits.
Do you know if there's a specific form or box to check with Fidelity for this? I'm in a similar situation and use Fidelity too, but their interface can be confusing.
With Fidelity specifically, when you make a contribution online, there's a dropdown menu where you can select which tax year to apply the contribution to. During the period between January 1st and the tax filing deadline (April 15th, 2025), you'll see both 2024 and 2025 as options in that dropdown. Just make sure to select "2024" before submitting the contribution. If you're doing it by check or mail, you need to clearly write "2024 HSA Contribution" on your check or contribution form. If you call them to make the contribution, just explicitly tell the representative that you want this to be a 2024 contribution.
Has anyone actually gotten an IRS penalty for HSA over-contributions before? I'm wondering how strict they are about this stuff. I think I might have over-contributed last year but never fixed it and haven't heard anything.
Yes, I got hit with the 6% excise tax for an HSA excess contribution I didn't correct. It wasn't a huge amount (around $75 penalty for my $1,250 over-contribution), but the annoying part was filling out Form 5329. The IRS does check this, especially if your W-2 and HSA provider both report contribution amounts that exceed the limits.
I went with the Tesla Model X for my real estate business last year. The tax advantages were significantly better than the hybrid options I looked at. I was able to claim the full commercial EV credit ($7,500) plus take advantage of Section 179 deduction for a portion of the cost. Just make sure you're tracking business mileage meticulously - I use an app that automatically logs my trips and categorizes them. My accountant said that's crucial if you ever get audited. One thing nobody mentioned to me beforehand: my state offered additional incentives beyond the federal stuff that made the deal even sweeter. Check your state's policies too!
What app do you use for tracking? I've been looking for something reliable. And did you go with the 5 or 7 seat configuration? I've heard that affects whether it's considered an SUV for tax purposes.
I use MileIQ - it's been super reliable and creates reports I can send directly to my accountant. Regarding seating, I went with the 6-seat configuration (2-2-2), and yes, that helped ensure it qualified as an SUV which was important for Section 179 purposes since SUVs have higher deduction limits than passenger vehicles. The weight of the Model X also puts it in a favorable category for deduction purposes. One other tip - I took delivery in December but made sure all paperwork was completed and the vehicle was "placed in service" (used for business) before year-end. That allowed me to claim everything on that tax year rather than having to wait.
I was in your exact position last year and ended up going with the BMW X5 hybrid. Everyone kept pushing me toward Tesla, but honestly the PHEV made more sense for my business. Here's why: 1) I qualified for about $4k in credits which wasn't as much as the Tesla would've been, BUT 2) I travel to rural areas where charging infrastructure isn't great and 3) the BMW was about $20k less expensive, which left more capital for my actual business. For tax purposes, I was able to deduct 80% of the vehicle (my documented business use percentage) through Section 179. My CPA actually advised against going with the more expensive vehicle just for tax benefits - once you do the math, spending more to get a bigger deduction/credit doesn't always make financial sense.
This is really smart advice. Did you have any issues with the battery range on the BMW for your typical driving?
No real issues with the battery range - the X5 hybrid gets around 30 miles of pure electric range which covers most of my in-town client visits. When I do longer trips to rural areas, it switches seamlessly to gas. Actually ended up being the perfect balance for my needs. The charging is way simpler too - I just use a regular outlet in my garage overnight rather than needing to install a special charger. Total cost of ownership has been lower than I expected when factoring in the fuel savings plus the tax benefits.
Has anyone considered that this might actually be classified as volunteer work if there was never an expectation of payment? My wife volunteered at our kid's school and they gave her a tuition discount as a "thank you" but it wasn't considered compensation because there wasn't a formal agreement about the value of her time.
That's an interesting perspective! In our case though, there was definitely an established hourly rate. They track my hours precisely and deduct exactly $15 per hour from our tuition bill. The statements even say "Work credit: 12 hours at $15/hr = $180 deduction." So I think in my case it's clearly compensation rather than voluntary work with a thank you gift.
That's definitely different from what my wife experienced. With that specific hourly tracking and direct correlation between hours worked and tuition reduction, it sounds like a clear employment or contractor relationship. The school should definitely be providing you with tax documentation, either a W-2 if you're an employee or 1099-NEC if you're a contractor.
You might check with the preschool if they're treating this as a "tuition remission" benefit, which some educational institutions offer to employees. There are specific tax rules around tuition remission that might apply in your situation.
This is exactly what my daughter's preschool does! They call it "tuition remission" and there's actually a $5,250 tax-free benefit allowance for educational assistance programs if the school sets it up properly under Section 127 of the tax code. Anything above that amount would be taxable though.
I went through this exact situation last year. If you owe $40k, an Offer in Compromise might be your best option, but the acceptance rate is only around 30-40%. The IRS will look at your income, expenses, assets, and ability to pay. Be prepared to provide DETAILED financial statements. They'll basically determine: "What's the most we can reasonably expect to collect from this person?" If that amount is less than what you owe, they might accept a lower offer.
Thank you for sharing your experience. Did you go through the OIC process yourself? If so, how long did it take from submission to getting a decision?
I did go through the OIC process myself. The entire process took about 8 months from when I submitted my application to receiving final approval. The initial review took about 3 months, then they came back asking for additional documentation about some of my expenses and assets which took another 2 months of back and forth. The final negotiation and approval took another 3 months. During this time, collections activities were suspended which was a huge relief. One important tip: be extremely thorough and accurate with your financial disclosure forms (433-A and 433-B if you have a business). Any discrepancies will delay the process significantly.
Have you considered bankruptcy? Chapter 7 can sometimes discharge tax debts if they're old enough (generally 3+ years since filing) and meet certain other criteria. Might be worth exploring if your financial situation is truly dire.
This is risky advice without knowing more details. Tax debt is often NOT dischargeable in bankruptcy unless it meets very specific criteria: - The taxes must be income taxes - The due date for filing the tax return was at least 3 years ago - You filed the tax return at least 2 years before filing bankruptcy - The tax assessment is at least 240 days old - You didn't commit fraud or willful evasion Chapter 7 also has significant long-term consequences. OP should definitely consult with both a tax professional AND a bankruptcy attorney before considering this route.
Jeremiah Brown
Something to keep in mind - even with the 20% they withheld, you might still owe more depending on your tax bracket. I took a distribution last year and had 20% withheld but still ended up owing more at tax time because that withholding wasn't enough to cover both the regular income tax AND the 10% early withdrawal penalty.
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Lauren Zeb
ā¢That's a good point I hadn't considered! Do you know if there's a way to figure out ahead of time how much I might owe? My tax bracket is probably around 22% this year.
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Jeremiah Brown
ā¢You can use the IRS withholding calculator on their website to get a rough estimate of what you might owe based on your overall situation. With a 22% tax bracket plus the potential 10% penalty if no exceptions apply, you'd be looking at approximately 32% total tax on the withdrawal. A lot of people get surprised by this because the mandatory 20% withholding seems like it should be enough, but it often isn't. If you want to avoid a surprise tax bill, you might consider making an estimated tax payment to cover the difference.
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Royal_GM_Mark
One more thing - make sure you keep the 1099-R form you'll get in January or February. Your 401k administrator is required to send this to you and it shows the total distribution and taxes withheld. You'll need this document when filing your taxes.
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Amelia Cartwright
ā¢Also make sure the info on the 1099-R is correct! My plan administrator messed up and showed I took out $15k when it was actually only $5k. Was a nightmare to fix and delayed my refund by months.
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