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Miguel Diaz

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Just want to add to the conversation that another way to handle excess Roth contributions that nobody has mentioned is the "carry forward" method. If you didn't catch the excess before the deadline, instead of paying the 6% penalty every year, you can "use up" the excess by contributing less than the maximum in future years. For example, if you had a $3,400 excess in your husband's account that you didn't withdraw, and his contribution limit for the next year is $6,500, he could contribute only $3,100 the next year ($6,500 - $3,400) and the excess would be "absorbed" and no longer subject to the penalty after that year.

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Liam McGuire

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Thank you for explaining this! Does this mean we'd only pay the 6% penalty for one year on his excess amount, and then "absorb" it in the following year by under-contributing? That sounds much simpler than trying to do a late removal now.

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Miguel Diaz

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Exactly right! You would only pay the 6% penalty for one year on the $3,400 excess in his account (about $204). Then in the following year, if his contribution limit is $6,500, he would only contribute $3,100 to his Roth IRA. This effectively uses $3,400 of that year's contribution limit to "absorb" last year's excess. The key thing is that you need to have contribution eligibility in that following year. If your income exceeds the limits again, this approach wouldn't work since you wouldn't be eligible to make any contributions that could "absorb" the previous excess.

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Zainab Ahmed

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Has anyone actually calculated what the earnings portion would be for an excess contribution removal? My understanding is that you need to withdraw not just the excess contribution but also any earnings specifically attributed to those excess funds.

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There's a specific formula the IRS provides: Earnings = Excess contribution ร— (Ending balance - Beginning balance) รท Beginning balance So if you contributed $6,000 when your limit was $3,000 (so $3,000 excess), and your account went from $20,000 to $22,000 during that period, the earnings on your excess would be: $3,000 ร— ($22,000 - $20,000) รท $20,000 = $3,000 ร— $2,000 รท $20,000 = $300 You'd need to withdraw $3,300 total ($3,000 excess + $300 earnings).

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Ana Rusula

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Could it be Form 8995 (Qualified Business Income Deduction)? Maybe a typo in their system? I got a similar notice once where they transposed some numbers. For your amended return - did you include any self-employment or business income by chance? Even something small could trigger their system to expect a Form 8995.

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Clay blendedgen

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No self-employment at all - just a regular W-2 job. The amendment was only to claim some education expenses I forgot on the original filing (Form 8863 for education credits). Nothing business related whatsoever. I'm wondering if maybe the "8" in 8863 and the "95" from somewhere else got combined into "8895" in their system? Still doesn't really explain why they'd be asking for a form that doesn't exist though.

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Ana Rusula

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The combination of 8863 and some other form number accidentally creating 8895 is actually a really plausible explanation. The IRS's computer systems are ancient and glitches like this happen more often than they admit. Since your amendment involved education credits, another possibility is they might be looking for Form 8915 (which relates to retirement plan distributions, but sometimes these codes get mixed up). Or maybe even Form 8885 (Health Coverage Tax Credit). I'd definitely recommend calling back and specifically explaining you amended for education credits using Form 8863, and asking if that might be causing confusion in their system. Sometimes just mentioning the correct form can help the rep figure out what's happening.

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Fidel Carson

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Has anyone checked if this is a scam? There are a lot of fake IRS notices going around. Does the letter have the correct IRS watermarks and official formatting?

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Isaiah Sanders

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Good point! Real IRS notices have specific security features. The paper should have a watermark visible when held up to light. Also check if the letter has your last 4 SSN digits (scammers often don't have this). And NEVER call a phone number listed in a suspicious notice - always call the official IRS number instead.

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Can I still resolve a 2012 tax issue with the IRS after all this time?

I'm dealing with a nightmare tax situation from 2012 that I just finally figured out. Back then, I had a small stock account my parents set up that I rarely touched. In 2012, the broker moved/sold about $16K in stocks resulting in only about $160 in actual profit. I filed everything like normal using the 1099-B forms I received. Fast forward a few months after filing, and I got a letter saying I owed $5,800 in unreported taxes! I had just had a baby and was overwhelmed, so I honestly just panicked and didn't deal with it properly. I was so confused and scared that I stopped filing taxes from 2013-2018 because I was worried they'd take my child tax credit money that I desperately needed. In 2019, I finally decided to get my life back on track and figure this mess out. For the past 5 years, the IRS has been taking my child tax credits and refunds, occasionally giving me a few hundred dollars back which just added to my confusion. My IRS online account always showed a zero balance with no notices explaining why money was being taken. After years of trying to figure this out, I finally discovered the problem this morning. Apparently in 2011, the IRS created a new form (Form 8949) where you need to add additional details about stock transactions. Since I didn't know about this form requirement, I only filed the standard 1099-B. The IRS assumed I owed taxes on the ENTIRE $16K stock value instead of just the $160 profit, which is why I got hit with that $5,800 tax bill. At the time, I was only making about $16K in income per year at a nonprofit. I called the IRS and they're going to refund the failure to pay penalties (about $1,500), and they suggested I submit Form 843 for interest charge abatement (around $1,900). They told me 2012 is outside the statute of limitations, but I want my taxes filed correctly and would really love to get that original $5,800 back that I never should have owed as a low-income person. Besides filling out Form 843, writing a letter, filing my back taxes, and trying to amend my 2012 return, is there anything else I can do? Is it even worth trying? This feels so unfair - I'm not trying to commit fraud, I was just struggling financially and didn't understand tax requirements. I've never owned a home or had complicated taxes beyond my basic income. Any advice would be so appreciated!

Ravi Gupta

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As someone who worked in tax resolution for 5 years, here's what I'd recommend for your 2012 issue: 1. File Form 911 (Taxpayer Advocate Service request) along with your Form 843. The Taxpayer Advocate can sometimes help in cases where there's significant hardship and unfairness, even with statute limitations issues. 2. Request your complete account transcripts from the IRS for all years involved. Look for any processing errors that might create exceptions to the statute of limitations. 3. If you received any incorrect CP2000 notices or other incorrect IRS communications, document these carefully as they can sometimes extend your ability to claim refunds. 4. Make sure you're very specific about the "reasonable cause" for your failure to file the correct form - emphasize that you were unaware of the new Form 8949 requirement, had just had a baby, were low income, etc. The honest truth is that getting money back from 2012 is very difficult, but I've seen exceptions happen when taxpayers are persistent and documentation is solid.

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Amina Sow

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Thank you for these suggestions! I hadn't heard of Form 911 before, but I'll definitely look into it. I'm going to request my complete account transcripts right away. One question - for the "reasonable cause" explanation, should I focus more on my financial hardship or my lack of understanding about the Form 8949? I want to make the strongest case possible.

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Ravi Gupta

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Focus on both aspects equally, but make sure to emphasize that your misunderstanding was directly related to a new form requirement that had just been introduced. The IRS tends to be more sympathetic when confusion stems from their procedural changes rather than just general tax ignorance. Also document the financial impact this had on you as a low-income person with a new baby. Include specific details about your income at the time ($16K annual) compared to the assessment ($5,800) to illustrate the disproportionate impact. When filing Form 911, be very clear that this situation created economic hardship for you over multiple years as they recaptured your refunds and tax credits that you needed for basic living expenses.

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Freya Pedersen

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Has anyone ever successfully used the "equitable doctrines" approach with the IRS? I've heard that there are rare cases where the IRS will consider refunds outside the statute of limitations under concepts like equitable tolling or equitable estoppel, especially when they made errors in processing.

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Omar Hassan

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I'm a tax attorney, and while equitable doctrines do exist, they're extremely difficult to successfully apply against the IRS. The Supreme Court has generally held that filing deadlines in tax statutes are jurisdictional, meaning equitable tolling doesn't usually apply. Your best bet is always to find a technical exception within the code itself rather than relying on equitable arguments.

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Omar Hassan

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For the original poster, I would focus on three potential avenues: First, examine if any of the refund offsets occurred within the last two years, which might create a separate claim for refund for those specific payments. Second, determine if the IRS made any computational errors in their original assessment (not just the taxpayer's reporting error), which can sometimes extend the limitations period. Third, pursue penalty and interest abatement aggressively through Form 843, as those have the highest likelihood of success based on the circumstances described. While recovering the original tax assessment from 2012 is unlikely, these other approaches might recover a meaningful portion of what was paid.

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StellarSurfer

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For resellers specifically, here's what I include in my summary statement (I've been reselling for 5 years): - Item description (brief) - Date purchased - Purchase price - Date sold - Sale price - Platform fees - Shipping costs - Net profit I organize mine by month and include monthly totals. FreeTaxUSA accepted this format with no issues.

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Sean Kelly

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Do you include things like gas expenses for going to thrift stores and yard sales on this same statement? Or are those tracked separately?

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StellarSurfer

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I track those separately as business expenses rather than including them on the sales summary statement. The summary statement is specifically for showing your inventory's cost basis and sales prices. Transportation costs, supplies, platform fees, and other business expenses should definitely be deducted, but they belong in different sections of your tax return. I keep a separate spreadsheet for those business expenses categorized by type (transportation, office supplies, shipping materials, etc.).

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Zara Malik

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I think everyone's overthinking this. I just made a simple Excel spreadsheet with my total sales for the year, my total cost of goods, and my profit margin. Uploaded that as a PDF to FreeTaxUSA and it was accepted no problem. Unless you're doing massive volume, the IRS isn't going to audit a small reseller for not having super detailed records.

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Luca Greco

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This is terrible advice. The IRS absolutely can and does audit small businesses, especially with the new lower 1099-K thresholds. A summary statement needs to show your basis for claiming costs against specific income. If you get audited with just "total sales" and "total costs" with no breakdown, you're asking for trouble.

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Lena Schultz

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9 Don't forget to look into tax software options specifically designed for self-employed people! I use QuickBooks Self-Employed and it's been a lifesaver for tracking expenses, mileage, and estimating quarterly taxes. There's also FreshBooks which some of my contractor friends prefer. Starting with good tracking habits from day one will save you so much headache later.

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Lena Schultz

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3 I've heard QuickBooks is expensive though. Are there any free or cheaper alternatives that would work for someone just starting out with one contract?

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Lena Schultz

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9 There are definitely more affordable options for beginners. Wave is completely free for basic accounting and receipt tracking. Also check out Stride Tax which is free and designed specifically for tracking expenses and deductions for independent contractors. When you're just starting with one contract, these simpler tools are often enough until your business grows more complex.

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Lena Schultz

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21 One thing nobody mentioned yet - make sure you have a separate business checking account! Don't mix personal and business transactions. Makes tax time so much easier and looks better if you ever get audited. Most banks offer free business checking for sole proprietors.

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Lena Schultz

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1 This is really smart - I never would have thought about separate accounts. Do I need to set up an LLC first or can I just open a business account as myself?

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