


Ask the community...
Has anyone tried using H&R Block software for backdoor Roth IRA reporting? I'm wondering if they handle it better than FreeTaxUSA. This is my first year doing this strategy and I haven't started my taxes yet, so I'm trying to pick the best software to avoid these headaches.
Thanks for sharing your experience! That's really helpful to know. I think I'll give H&R Block a try this year since I'd rather pay a bit more for a smoother experience, especially with something like backdoor Roth where the tax implications can be significant if reported incorrectly. Did you use their Deluxe or Premium version? I'm trying to figure out which tier I need.
I used their Premium version because I also had some investment income and rental property to report. For just the backdoor Roth, I believe their Deluxe version would be sufficient as it covers IRA contributions and Form 8606. Their website has a comparison chart that can help you determine exactly which features you need. The interface is pretty intuitive, with a dedicated section for IRA contributions where you specifically mark them as non-deductible. Then when you enter the 1099-R for the conversion, it connects the dots automatically. Just make sure you complete both sections for everything to calculate correctly.
One thing nobody has mentioned yet - make sure you didn't deduct your Traditional IRA contribution on last year's taxes if you did the contribution for the previous tax year. I made this mistake once and essentially got a double tax benefit (deduction when contributing + tax-free growth in the Roth) which isn't allowed. If you did mistakenly deduct it last year, you'll need to file an amended return for that year or include the deducted amount as income on this year's return. The IRS is increasingly scrutinizing backdoor Roth conversions, so you want to make sure everything is reported correctly.
This is such an important point that often gets overlooked! I nearly made this mistake myself. For anyone confused: with a backdoor Roth, you should NOT be deducting your Traditional IRA contribution at any point. The whole strategy only works tax-efficiently if you use after-tax dollars for the initial contribution. Otherwise, you'll end up paying taxes during the conversion step.
Thank you for bringing this up! I didn't deduct my Traditional IRA contribution on last year's taxes, so I should be okay on that front. But it's a really good reminder about ensuring consistency between tax years. I feel like there are so many gotchas with this strategy that the software doesn't really warn you about. Do you know if FreeTaxUSA has any special review checks for these kinds of issues?
Something nobody has mentioned yet is that you can request a 1098-T from your school for verification purposes even if they didn't initially send you one. I work in a university bursar's office, and we do this for students all the time. Specifically request a "student account statement" that shows the dates when charges were applied AND the dates when payments were received. This statement should have official school letterhead and show all transactions. The date discrepancy you're describing is very common, especially for spring semester charges that post in December. What matters to the IRS is when YOU made the payment, not when the school posted the charges.
Thanks for this suggestion! I'm going to contact the bursar's office tomorrow and specifically ask for a student account statement with the payment dates clearly shown. Should I also ask them to provide any kind of explanation letter about why they didn't issue a 1098-T? Would that help my case with the IRS?
Yes, definitely ask them for an explanation letter! Request a formal letter on university letterhead that explains: 1) why no 1098-T was issued for 2021, 2) confirmation that you were enrolled in spring 2021, and 3) verification of when your payments were actually received by the university. Most bursar offices have dealt with this exact situation before and should have a standard letter they can provide. Make sure the letter specifically mentions the dates your payments were processed in January 2021, as that's what the IRS needs to see to verify your eligibility for the credit in tax year 2021.
Just to add - make sure you're responding to the CP2000 notice within the deadline they gave you! Even if you're still gathering documentation, send something in writing before the deadline saying you disagree with their findings and are gathering evidence. The worst thing you can do is miss their response deadline because then it becomes much harder to dispute. You can always send additional documentation later, but that initial response preserving your right to dispute is super important.
Before you panic, check if you qualified for any COVID-related stimulus payments in 2021 that might have been reported as income. I had a similar freakout when I saw a huge tax bill, but it turned out the issue was related to how stimulus payments were recorded. Also - regarding your parents claiming you as a dependent while you were married - that's definitely a red flag. If you were married and living with your spouse in 2021, your parents generally shouldn't have claimed you as a dependent that year. This could be part of the issue. I'd recommend getting those transcripts like the top commenter suggested, then consulting with a tax preparer at H&R Block or similar service. They can often do a free consultation to help you understand what you're dealing with before you decide whether to hire them.
Thanks for this perspective! I hadn't considered the stimulus payment angle. That's definitely something to look into. And yeah, I'm really worried about the dependent situation. I honestly don't know if my parents actually claimed me that year or if I just assumed they did. Is there a way to check if someone claimed me as a dependent?
You can find out if you were claimed as a dependent by looking at your tax transcript for 2021, which you can request from the IRS website. It won't tell you who claimed you, but it will indicate if you were claimed by someone else. For checking about stimulus payments, look for line items on your account transcript regarding "Economic Impact Payment" or "Recovery Rebate Credit." If there's confusion about how these were handled, it could definitely affect your tax situation. The tax professionals at places like H&R Block deal with these types of issues all the time and often provide free initial consultations, so it's worth a visit to understand your options before you spend money on more expensive help.
Has anyone considered this might be identity theft? I had a similar situation where someone was using my SSN for work. Check your credit reports asap through annualcreditreport.com (the official free site) to see if there's suspicious activity. If someone is working under your SSN, it could explain the unexplained tax bill.
This is a really good point. I had my identity stolen a few years back and the first sign was a tax bill for income I never earned. The IRS has a specific department for identity theft cases and they're actually pretty helpful. If this is what happened, you'll need to file Form 14039 (Identity Theft Affidavit) with the IRS.
A heads up from someone who works at a bank - if you're paying online through IRS Direct Pay, make sure you initiate the payment at least 3-5 business days before the deadline! The payment isn't considered "made" until it actually processes, not when you submit it. I've seen customers get hit with late fees because they initiated payment on April 15th thinking that was sufficient.
Does this apply to credit card payments too? I usually pay my taxes with a credit card to get the points.
Just adding one more payment option - if you use tax software like TurboTax, H&R Block, etc., you can usually set up direct debit from your bank account when you e-file. This is super convenient since everything is handled in one step - your return is filed and payment is scheduled for whatever date you choose (up to the deadline). That's what I did last year when I unexpectedly owed about $1,900.
QuantumQuest
Don't forget about the other dependency tests! If OP's mom didn't provide more than half of their support for the year, she might not be able to claim them regardless of age and income. Support includes housing, food, education, medical expenses, clothing, etc. Since you made under $7000, it's almost certain your mom provided more than half your support, but it's something to be aware of if your situation changes. I've seen so many families mess this up.
0 coins
Miguel Ramos
ā¢This is super helpful, thank you! My mom definitely provides way more than half my support. She pays the mortgage, all groceries, my cell phone, and even my car insurance. The money I made mostly went to save for college and some fun stuff.
0 coins
QuantumQuest
ā¢That's perfect then - you absolutely qualify as her dependent. Just make sure when you file your return that you check the box saying someone else can claim you as a dependent. She'll get a much bigger tax benefit from claiming you than you would from claiming yourself.
0 coins
Amina Sy
Is nobody gonna mention that if you claim yourself as independent when your mom could legally claim you, you're both potentially getting audited? Don't mess around with dependency status - the IRS has automated systems that flag returns when two people try to claim the same person.
0 coins
Oliver Fischer
ā¢This is important! My brother and I both claimed our mom one year (miscommunication) and we both got letters from the IRS within weeks. They flagged it immediately and it was a huge hassle to fix.
0 coins