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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - many US banks are becoming increasingly difficult about opening accounts for foreign-owned LLCs, even with Stripe Atlas. They'll often request substantial documentation, in-person visits, or may simply refuse. I tried this route (Australian citizen, Wyoming LLC) and ended up using Mercury and Wise Business instead of traditional banks. Still had to get an EIN and file Form 5472 annually even though my LLC was just holding funds for international expenses, exactly as you're planning.
Thanks for mentioning this! Did you find the annual filing requirements to be complicated or expensive to comply with? I'm trying to figure out if the maintenance overhead makes this approach worthwhile compared to other options.
The annual requirements aren't super complicated, but they do add costs and administrative overhead. Form 5472 isn't something you'd want to DIY - I pay about $600 annually to my accountant to handle it plus the pro-forma 1120. There's also state maintenance fees (annual reports, registered agent fees) which run about $200-300/year for Wyoming. Overall, it costs me roughly $900-1000 annually to maintain everything properly. For me, the banking flexibility is worth it, but if you're just looking for a place to park money, there might be simpler solutions like multi-currency accounts with international banks.
Just to add a different perspective - have you considered setting up the entity in a different jurisdiction altogether? Singapore, BVI, or even Estonia's e-residency program might offer similar benefits with potentially less reporting hassle than a US LLC. I went the US route initially but switched to Singapore after calculating the total compliance costs. The reporting requirements were simpler for my situation as a digital nomad with no physical presence anywhere.
Singapore is good but expensive to maintain compared to US LLCs. I pay about $2000/year for my Singapore company between the local director requirement and corporate secretary fees. Estonia e-residency + company is cheaper but some banks don't like it.
My two cents as someone who's owned an S-Corp for 7 years - ALWAYS go with the extension if your CPA recommends it. Here's why: 1. Your in-laws aren't tax professionals (I assume). Your CPA is. Trust the expert. 2. Rushing tax work = mistakes = potential audit flags 3. Extension filing is super common and not a red flag 4. You've already paid the franchise tax, so you're good there 5. Amended returns are a much bigger headache than extensions I've filed extensions 5 out of 7 years with zero issues. Just make sure any estimated taxes are paid on time to avoid penalties.
Thanks for this perspective! So even though the statute of limitations gets extended, you think the benefits of taking the time to do it right outweigh that consideration? Have you ever had any issues with shareholders getting their K-1s late?
The statute of limitations concern is overblown unless you're doing something questionable. For legitimate businesses with proper documentation, it's a non-issue. The peace of mind from an accurate return is worth so much more. Regarding K-1s, I am the only shareholder in my S-Corp, so that hasn't been an issue. But I've talked with other business owners who have multiple shareholders, and most understand that getting accurate K-1s is better than getting fast ones with errors. Just communicate clearly with your shareholders about the timeline. Most personal tax returns are on extension anyway if they have business interests.
Has anyone calculated what the actual financial risk is with extending the statute of limitations? Like if you file 3 months late, does that really mean the IRS has 3 extra months to audit you beyond the normal 3 years?
Yes, that's correct. The statute of limitations for IRS audits is generally 3 years from the date you actually file, not from the original due date. So filing 3 months later does give them 3 more months in that window. But here's some perspective: the overall audit rate for S-Corps is extremely low (less than 0.2%). And if your return is accurate and well-documented, an audit shouldn't be frightening anyway. The far greater risk is rushing and making errors that could trigger an audit in the first place or result in missed deductions that cost you money.
One option you might not have considered: a partial cash out. You could take out just enough to cover your highest interest debt and roll over the rest. This might keep you from bumping up too far in tax brackets while still addressing your immediate needs. Also, check if your new 457b plan allows for loans - some do, and that could be a way to access some money without the tax consequences of a full distribution.
Thanks for this suggestion! I hadn't thought about doing a partial cash out. Do you know if there's a minimum percentage I need to roll over? Also, are there different tax forms I need to fill out for a partial vs. full distribution?
There's no minimum percentage requirement for rollovers - you can roll over any portion of your 401k and take distribution of the rest. The paperwork is essentially the same either way. For the tax forms, your plan administrator will issue a 1099-R that shows the total distribution, with boxes indicating how much was rolled over (non-taxable) versus how much was distributed to you (taxable). You'll report this on your tax return for the year. The partial approach is often the best of both worlds - you get some immediate cash while preserving the tax-advantaged status of the majority of your retirement savings.
Something nobody has mentioned yet - if you're switching to a state job, check if they have a pension buy-back program! Many state retirement systems allow you to "purchase service credits" using your 401k funds through a direct transfer. This increases your future pension without triggering ANY taxes or penalties. It's completely different from cashing out. When I switched to a state university job, I was able to transfer about $45k from my old 401k to buy 5 years of service credits, which increased my future pension by about $850/month. No taxes, no penalties, just a direct transfer to the state pension system.
Just wanted to add a practical tip from my experience as someone who's been claiming home office deductions for years while sharing costs with my partner: take detailed photos of your dedicated office space and keep them with your tax records. In case of an audit, you'll want to clearly show that the space is used exclusively for business. This means no personal items, no TV for watching movies, no exercise equipment, etc. The exclusive use requirement is where a lot of people get tripped up with home office deductions.
That's a great suggestion about the photos! Do you think it's also helpful to have something in writing from my boyfriend acknowledging that the room is exclusively for business use? And should I be taking new photos periodically to show consistent business use?
Having some documentation from your boyfriend acknowledging the exclusive business use isn't necessary but could be helpful supporting evidence. A simple email or signed statement could work. Yes, I recommend taking new photos quarterly to show consistent business use over time. Date-stamped photos showing the same dedicated setup throughout the year creates a strong paper trail. I also keep a simple log of business activities conducted in the space - this has been incredibly valuable documentation during a previous review of my returns.
I'm wondering about the utilities part of this. How do you guys handle internet when calculating home office? My internet is technically "unlimited" but I use about 80% of it for my business video calls and uploads. Should I deduct 80% of the bill or stick with the same 13% (in OP's case) as the square footage?
For utilities like internet, you actually have options. You can either use the same square footage percentage (the 13% in OP's case) OR you can track actual business usage if you have a reasonable method of calculating it. If you can document that 80% of your internet usage is truly for business (like through time logs of business calls/uploads vs personal use), you can potentially deduct that larger percentage. Just be prepared to substantiate the higher percentage if asked. I use a simple spreadsheet tracking business vs personal internet hours and it's worked fine for my deductions.
Grant Vikers
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - the tax implications depend on what TYPE of account you had at PenFed. Was it a traditional IRA, a 401k, a 403b, or something else? Each has slightly different rules. Also, did you do a DIRECT transfer (trustee-to-trustee) or did you receive a check that you then deposited? This matters a lot for the 60-day rollover rule.
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Sebastiรกn Stevens
โขIt was a traditional IRA at PenFed. And yes, it was a direct trustee-to-trustee transfer - I never touched the money. The confirmation paperwork even says "Direct Rollover" at the top.
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Grant Vikers
โขThanks for clarifying! So here's the situation: You did a direct Roth conversion from a traditional IRA. This is 100% taxable but not subject to the 10% early withdrawal penalty. The fact that it was trustee-to-trustee is good - it means you don't have to worry about the 60-day rule. The "Direct Rollover" terminology on your paperwork is a bit misleading since technically this was a conversion, not a rollover. This is common though - many financial institutions use the terms interchangeably even though they have different tax implications.
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Giovanni Martello
I work at a financial institution (not PenFed) and see this confusion ALL THE TIME. When you request a withholding for taxes, you need to specifically request federal AND state tax withholding. Many people only check one box or don't specify the percentage. Also, check that 1099-R carefully. Box 7 should have a distribution code that tells you a lot. If it's code "1" that's bad news (early distribution, no known exception). If it's "2" that's better (early distribution, exception applies). If it's "7" that's a normal distribution.
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Sebastiรกn Stevens
โขJust checked my 1099-R and box 7 has code "2" in it. What does that mean exactly for my situation?
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