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Not seeing anyone mention this, but you should be requiring tax exemption certificates from these nonprofits. Don't just take their word that they're tax-exempt! If you get audited and don't have those certificates on file, YOU could be liable for the uncollected sales tax. Each state has different requirements for these certificates too. Some expire after a certain time period, others are permanent. Make sure you're keeping proper documentation.
I do get their certificates, but I never thought about them expiring. Do I need to verify them periodically? Most of these nonprofits are local organizations I know pretty well.
Yes, you absolutely need to periodically verify them. Personal relationships don't matter to auditors! In many states, exemption certificates expire after a set period (often 1-5 years depending on the state). I recommend setting up a simple tracking system - even just a spreadsheet - with each nonprofit customer, their certificate number, and expiration date. Then set calendar reminders to request updated certificates. Some states also have online verification systems where you can check if a certificate is still valid. Even in states where certificates don't technically expire, a nonprofit could lose its tax-exempt status, and you'd have no way of knowing unless you verify periodically. If that happens and you continue to make tax-free sales, you're the one who'll be responsible for that uncollected tax.
Everyone's focused on the sales tax part but missing potential marketing opportunity. I've found that nonprofit customers often turn into great long-term clients if you develop the relationship right. Instead of worrying about the "lost" 8%, consider creating a formal nonprofit discount program (maybe 10%) that you actively promote. Then THAT discount (not the sales tax part) would be a legitimate business expense that reduces your taxable income. You'd be surprised how much word spreads in nonprofit circles when they find a vendor who caters to their needs.
I've been a 1099 contractor for 5 years and I switched from TurboTax to a CPA after my first year. Honestly it was the best decision ever for my situation. Here's what I learned: First year with TurboTax: Got a $800 refund and spent about 12 hours doing everything myself First year with CPA: Got a $3,200 refund and spent 1 hour gathering documents The CPA found so many legit deductions I missed - part of my car insurance, cell phone, internet, professional subscriptions, even some clothing items specific to my work. She also helped me set up quarterly payments so I wasnt hit with penalties. The $400 I pay her is nothing compared to what she saves me. But it really depends on how complicated your situation is and how organized your expense tracking is!
Did your CPA suggest you form an LLC or S-Corp? I've heard that can save on self-employment taxes but not sure if it's worth it at my income level (around $70k).
My CPA actually advised against forming an LLC at first since it wouldn't provide tax benefits by itself - it's mainly for liability protection. However, once I hit about $80k consistently, she suggested an S-Corp structure which has saved me thousands in self-employment taxes. At $70k, you're right at the threshold where it might make sense. The basic concept is that with an S-Corp, you pay yourself a "reasonable salary" which is subject to self-employment taxes, but can take the rest as distributions that avoid those taxes. However, there are additional costs like payroll processing and more complex filing requirements. My CPA said generally it doesn't make sense until you're netting at least $60-70k after expenses.
Has anyone tried using both TurboTax Self-Employed AND having a cpa review it afterwards? Im thinking about entering everything in TurboTax myself then paying a CPA for just an hour of their time to check it over. Would that be cheaper than full service prep?
Don't forget about the other dependency tests! If OP's mom didn't provide more than half of their support for the year, she might not be able to claim them regardless of age and income. Support includes housing, food, education, medical expenses, clothing, etc. Since you made under $7000, it's almost certain your mom provided more than half your support, but it's something to be aware of if your situation changes. I've seen so many families mess this up.
This is super helpful, thank you! My mom definitely provides way more than half my support. She pays the mortgage, all groceries, my cell phone, and even my car insurance. The money I made mostly went to save for college and some fun stuff.
That's perfect then - you absolutely qualify as her dependent. Just make sure when you file your return that you check the box saying someone else can claim you as a dependent. She'll get a much bigger tax benefit from claiming you than you would from claiming yourself.
Is nobody gonna mention that if you claim yourself as independent when your mom could legally claim you, you're both potentially getting audited? Don't mess around with dependency status - the IRS has automated systems that flag returns when two people try to claim the same person.
Has anyone tried using H&R Block software for backdoor Roth IRA reporting? I'm wondering if they handle it better than FreeTaxUSA. This is my first year doing this strategy and I haven't started my taxes yet, so I'm trying to pick the best software to avoid these headaches.
Thanks for sharing your experience! That's really helpful to know. I think I'll give H&R Block a try this year since I'd rather pay a bit more for a smoother experience, especially with something like backdoor Roth where the tax implications can be significant if reported incorrectly. Did you use their Deluxe or Premium version? I'm trying to figure out which tier I need.
I used their Premium version because I also had some investment income and rental property to report. For just the backdoor Roth, I believe their Deluxe version would be sufficient as it covers IRA contributions and Form 8606. Their website has a comparison chart that can help you determine exactly which features you need. The interface is pretty intuitive, with a dedicated section for IRA contributions where you specifically mark them as non-deductible. Then when you enter the 1099-R for the conversion, it connects the dots automatically. Just make sure you complete both sections for everything to calculate correctly.
One thing nobody has mentioned yet - make sure you didn't deduct your Traditional IRA contribution on last year's taxes if you did the contribution for the previous tax year. I made this mistake once and essentially got a double tax benefit (deduction when contributing + tax-free growth in the Roth) which isn't allowed. If you did mistakenly deduct it last year, you'll need to file an amended return for that year or include the deducted amount as income on this year's return. The IRS is increasingly scrutinizing backdoor Roth conversions, so you want to make sure everything is reported correctly.
This is such an important point that often gets overlooked! I nearly made this mistake myself. For anyone confused: with a backdoor Roth, you should NOT be deducting your Traditional IRA contribution at any point. The whole strategy only works tax-efficiently if you use after-tax dollars for the initial contribution. Otherwise, you'll end up paying taxes during the conversion step.
Thank you for bringing this up! I didn't deduct my Traditional IRA contribution on last year's taxes, so I should be okay on that front. But it's a really good reminder about ensuring consistency between tax years. I feel like there are so many gotchas with this strategy that the software doesn't really warn you about. Do you know if FreeTaxUSA has any special review checks for these kinds of issues?
GalacticGladiator
In my experience, the timing depends on which state you're dealing with. California typically takes 3-5 days to withdraw funds, while states like New York and Illinois tend to be quicker (1-3 days). Remember that the withdrawal usually shows as "pending" first in your bank account for 24-48 hours before it fully processes. I'd recommend keeping the funds available for at least 7-10 business days after filing just to be safe.
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Omar Zaki
ā¢Has anyone had experience with Maryland? I filed last week and authorized a direct withdrawal but nothing has happened yet. Starting to wonder if I should contact them or just keep waiting.
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GalacticGladiator
ā¢Maryland typically takes 3-7 business days to process direct withdrawals, so you're still within the normal timeframe. Their processing times tend to be a bit longer than other states, especially during peak filing season. If you don't see any pending transaction by the end of next week, then I'd recommend contacting them. You can check your return status on the Maryland Comptroller's website using their "Where's My Refund?" tool (it also shows payment status) or call their taxpayer service line at 1-800-MD-TAXES.
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Chloe Taylor
Did you check the specific date you selected for the withdrawal when filing? TurboTax lets you choose a withdrawal date up to the filing deadline. If you didn't specifically change it, it probably defaulted to withdrawing right away, but you might have accidentally set a future date.
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Oliver Weber
ā¢You know what, I'm not 100% sure now that you mention it. I think I just went with whatever default date it suggested. I assumed it would be immediate but maybe I did select a specific date without realizing it. I'll need to go back and check my TurboTax submission again. That's a really good point - thanks for bringing that up!
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