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5 I've worked for a brokerage firm and can tell you this is a common problem with year-end trades. Your broker probably has an automated system that sorted your trade into the 2024 tax year based on the settlement date. One thing to check - log into your brokerage account and look at your 2024 tax forms. Some brokers have already generated preliminary 1099-Bs for 2024 that you can view online. If your December trade shows up there, that confirms they're using the settlement date incorrectly.
22 I never thought to check for preliminary 2024 forms! Just did, and sure enough, there's my December trade listed on my 2024 form. So frustrating that they got it wrong. What's the best way to approach them about fixing this?
5 Since you found the trade on your 2024 preliminary forms, that makes your case much stronger. Contact your broker's tax department directly (not just customer service) and specifically request a "corrected 1099-B for tax year 2023" to include the December 28th trade. Mention that you understand IRS regulations specify that trade date, not settlement date, determines the tax year for reporting purposes. Be prepared to provide your trade confirmation showing the December 28th date. If the first person you speak with doesn't understand, ask to escalate to a supervisor or tax specialist. Most brokerages can resolve this fairly quickly once you reach someone who understands the issue.
3 Just be aware that even after you get your broker to fix this, you might face another hassle. Sometimes when brokers issue corrected 1099-Bs, the IRS computers flag the discrepancy between the original and corrected forms, and you could get a CP2000 notice asking about "unreported income." If that happens, don't panic! Just respond with copies of both your original and corrected 1099-Bs, along with a brief explanation that the correction was needed to properly report the December 28 trade in the correct tax year.
4 This happened to me last year! It was such a headache. The IRS sent me a notice claiming I owed an additional $2,300 in taxes because of a "missing" stock sale, but it was actually just reported in the wrong year. Took me three letters back and forth to resolve it.
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Amina Sy
I switched from TurboTax to FreeTaxUSA three years ago and have been super happy. My taxes include a W-2, some dividends, and mortgage interest - nothing too fancy. FreeTaxUSA handled everything just fine and saved me like $70 compared to what TurboTax wanted to charge. The interface isn't quite as polished but it gets the job done. One thing to watch out for with TurboTax is how they try to upsell you throughout the process. You start thinking you're getting the $39 version and somehow end up paying $89+ by the end because of "necessary" upgrades. FreeTaxUSA is much more straightforward with pricing.
Do you know if FreeTaxUSA can import previous year's TurboTax returns? Or would I need to enter everything manually the first time I switch?
Amina Sy
ā¢You'll need to enter your information manually the first year you switch. FreeTaxUSA can't directly import TurboTax returns, which is honestly the biggest downside of switching. However, you can reference your previous TurboTax PDF while entering info, and after that first year, FreeTaxUSA will import your previous FreeTaxUSA return data. The manual entry took me maybe an extra 20-30 minutes the first year, but I've saved much more than that in both money and time (avoiding upsells) every year since.
Has anyone tried Credit Karma Tax (now Cash App Taxes)? It's completely free for both federal and state, which seems too good to be true compared to the $100+ I paid for TurboTax last year.
NebulaNomad
ā¢I used Cash App Taxes last year after using TurboTax for years. It's legitimately free and worked fine for my relatively simple return (W-2, some investment income, student loan interest deduction). The interface is decent but not as hand-holdy as TurboTax. The only limitation I found is that it doesn't support multiple state returns, foreign income, or some more complex situations like trusts. But for most people with straightforward taxes, it's a solid free option.
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Rhett Bowman
Just wanting to add some additional info about the 1095-C form since I work in HR and deal with these forms regularly: Line 14 codes are really just documenting what type of offer your employer made to you. The most common codes are: 1A - Qualifying offer 1E - Minimum essential coverage providing minimum value offered 1H - No offer of coverage Line 16 will often show code 2C if you enrolled or other codes if you declined. Since you declined, you might see 2G (full-time employee offered coverage) or another code. None of these codes will affect your taxes if you had coverage from another source like your spouse's plan. The form is mainly for the IRS to enforce employer mandates, not to determine your tax liability.
So if I have code 1E on line 14 and 2B on line 16, what does that actually mean? And do I have to report this anywhere on my 1040? I'm getting really stressed about these codes.
Rhett Bowman
ā¢Code 1E means your employer offered you minimum essential coverage that provides minimum value. Code 2B typically means you were not a full-time employee during that month, so your employer is showing why you might not have been offered coverage for all months. You don't need to report anything from the 1095-C on your 1040. The form is informational only and isn't part of your tax filing process. Just keep it with your records. The IRS gets a copy directly from your employer already, so you don't need to submit anything.
Daniel White
Does anyone know if the 1095-C affects whether I can claim the premium tax credit? I declined my employer insurance because it was too expensive and bought a marketplace plan instead. My 1095-C has code 1B in box 14 if that helps.
Dylan Fisher
ā¢This is a really important question! Code 1B means your employer offered you minimum essential coverage for you only (not your dependents). If that employer coverage was considered "affordable" (generally less than 9.61% of your household income for 2022), you would NOT be eligible for the premium tax credit for marketplace coverage, even if you declined the employer plan. Box 15 on your 1095-C should show the employee share of the lowest cost monthly premium. If that amount, when calculated against your income, shows the coverage was affordable, you might have to repay some or all of the premium tax credits you received.
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Another option is to check with your previous employer's payroll provider. A lot of companies use services like ADP, Paychex, or Gusto for payroll, and you might be able to create/access an account there to get your W2 electronically. My company uses ADP and I can get my W2s from the past 3 years just by logging in!
Do you know if you can still access those systems if you no longer work for the company? I left my job last August but never set up the payroll portal while I worked there.
You can usually still access them even if you no longer work there. The accounts stay active for tax purposes. If you never set up the portal, you might need to register for the first time - you'll typically need your SSN, DOB, and sometimes a company code (you can call the payroll company's support line to get this). If it's ADP specifically, go to their website and look for "First Time User" registration. Similar process with other payroll services. They'll verify your identity and then you should be able to access all your tax documents!
Rajiv Kumar
Has anyone considered using tax software to help with this? I was missing a W2 last year and when I started my return in TurboTax, they had an option to import my W2 information electronically. Apparently they can pull the data directly from some payroll providers. Might be worth trying before going through all the hassle of contacting the IRS.
I tried that with H&R Block's software but it only worked for my current employer. Couldn't pull any data from my previous jobs. Might depend on which payroll system the company uses.
Gabrielle Dubois
One thing nobody mentioned yet - make sure you're keeping track of your quarterly estimated tax payments! As an independent contractor, you're supposed to be making these throughout the year, not just paying one lump sum at tax time. If this is your first full year as a contractor and you haven't been making quarterly payments, you might get hit with an underpayment penalty on top of what you owe. It's usually not huge, but it's something to be aware of going forward. Also, don't forget about the self-employment tax deduction - you can deduct half of your self-employment tax on your 1040, which helps offset some of the extra tax burden.
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Amara Okafor
ā¢Oh no, I haven't been making any quarterly payments at all! I had no idea this was a thing. Will I definitely be penalized? Is there any way to avoid it for this year since I didn't know?
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Gabrielle Dubois
ā¢There's a possibility you might avoid penalties if this is your first year with self-employment income. The IRS sometimes waives the penalty for first-time filers who didn't know about quarterly requirements. Going forward though, you should definitely make quarterly estimated payments. The easiest way is through the IRS Direct Pay website. For a rough guideline, set aside about 25-30% of your contractor income each quarter (more if you're in a high-tax state). The official due dates are April 15, June 15, September 15, and January 15 of the following year.
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Tyrone Johnson
I'm gonna go against what some others said here - honestly for just $13k in contractor income, you might not need a professional. If your situation is straightforward (just the laptop and internet as deductions), you could probably handle it yourself with tax software like FreeTaxUSA which is way cheaper than TurboTax but still walks you through Schedule C. But definitely keep track of ALL your expenses. The big ones people miss: - Cell phone (business percentage) - Software subscriptions - Office supplies - Professional development/courses - Cloud storage - Any professional memberships Document everything with receipts in case of audit. And take the home office deduction if you have a dedicated workspace - it's not the audit trigger it used to be.
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Ingrid Larsson
ā¢FreeTaxUSA is decent but I found it missed some contractor-specific deductions that H&R Block's self-employed version caught. Might be worth the extra $50-60 if this is your first time filing with business expenses.
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