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Important tip from my experience with CP2000 notices: make copies of EVERYTHING you send to the IRS. I made the mistake of sending original documents and the IRS claimed they never received them. Send your response via certified mail so you have proof of delivery. For the wash sale issue specifically, create a chronological spreadsheet of all your trades for each security. It makes it much easier for the IRS to follow your calculations when they can see the complete trading pattern. I color-coded mine to highlight the wash sales, which the IRS agent later told me was extremely helpful.
Do you think it's better to mail the response or use the online response option mentioned in some CP2000 notices? I'm worried about documents getting lost in the mail but also wonder if the online system properly handles all the attachments I need to send.
I'd recommend using both methods if possible. The online response system is convenient, but in my experience, it has limitations with the number and size of attachments you can upload. What I did was submit the basic response online and noted that additional supporting documentation was being sent by certified mail. When you mail physical documents, always use certified mail with return receipt requested. This gives you proof that they received your package and when. For online submissions, take screenshots of your confirmation page and save any confirmation emails or numbers they provide.
Has anyone dealt with a CP2000 related to a brokerage transfer where there were BOTH wash sales AND $0 cost basis issues? My situation is complicated because I had legitimate wash sales that I should have reported, but also have transfer issues causing incorrect reporting. Should I address these as separate issues in my response or combine them?
I recommend addressing them as separate issues in your response for clarity. First, explain the brokerage transfer and provide documentation showing the correct cost basis for those securities. Then separately address the wash sale transactions, acknowledging those were legitimate but explaining how they affected your overall gains/losses.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet is that 401k loans typically have origination fees and maintenance fees. Mine charges a $100 setup fee plus $50 annual maintenance for as long as you have the loan. Also, the interest rate may be fixed at prime + 1% or similar, which isn't necessarily a great deal in today's market with high-yield savings accounts paying 4%+.
And don't forget the opportunity cost! I took a 401k loan in 2020 right before the market took off. Missed out on like 30% gains because that money wasn't invested. The "interest" I paid myself was nothing compared to what I would have earned leaving it alone. Still kicking myself over that one.
That's an excellent point about the timing risk. No one can predict market movements, but removing a chunk of money means you could miss out on significant growth during bull markets. Many financial advisors recommend considering other sources of funds before tapping retirement accounts for exactly this reason. Once you miss a growth period in the market, there's no way to go back and capture those gains later.
Has anyone dealt with the psychological aspect of seeing your 401k balance drop after taking a loan? I borrowed $20k last year and even though I know it's just a loan that I'm repaying, seeing my retirement account suddenly drop by that amount was more stressful than I expected. Made me second-guess my decision even though the math made sense for my situation.
I had the opposite experience! Taking a 401k loan to pay off high-interest credit card debt actually reduced my stress significantly. Yes, my 401k balance was lower, but seeing those credit cards at zero balance was worth it. And knowing I was paying the interest to myself instead of Visa made each payment feel like I was moving forward, not just treading water.
Something nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you check the updated requirements for the EV tax credit. There are new restrictions based on vehicle price, where it was manufactured, and battery component sourcing. For example, if your Tesla Model Y is over $80k, it might not qualify anyway, and the rules changed in 2023 and again in 2024. Also, if you already took delivery, you should have received a certificate from Tesla confirming the vehicle's eligibility. That's now required documentation regardless of the LLC situation.
Thanks for bringing this up! My Model Y was $58,500 and I did receive the certificate from Tesla confirming it meets the North American assembly requirements. I also checked and the battery components meet the new criteria as well. I was more concerned about the ownership transition issue since the IRS seems pretty strict about documentation. Sounds like I need to keep all paperwork showing the transition from LLC to personal ownership, plus the dissolution documents for the LLC.
That's great! You're definitely under the $80k limit for SUVs, and having that certificate is crucial. Just make sure when you file that you include Form 8936 (Qualified Plug-in Electric Drive Motor Vehicle Credit) with your personal tax return. One more tip - if your income is over $300,000 (joint) or $150,000 (single), the credit starts to phase out. But based on your situation, it sounds like you should be eligible for the full $7,500 as long as you document the ownership transition properly.
Don't forget you also have the option to take the credit at point of sale starting this year rather than waiting for tax time! If you already purchased without doing this, it's too late now, but for anyone else reading this thread, it's something to consider for future EV purchases.
Just an additional tip - when you send your response to the CP 2000, make sure to include Form 1040-X (Amended Return) if you're changing anything on your original return. I learned this the hard way when my first response got rejected because I just sent a letter explaining the changes without the official form. Also, keep copies of EVERYTHING you send, and if possible, send your response via certified mail so you have proof of delivery. The IRS has been known to "lose" documentation.
Do you need to send Form 1040-X even if you're just providing documentation but not actually changing any numbers on your return? My CP 2000 is just asking for proof of a deduction I already claimed.
If you're not changing any numbers and just providing supporting documentation for what you already claimed, you typically don't need to submit Form 1040-X. Just include a clear explanation letter referencing your CP 2000 notice number along with your documentation. However, you should still use the response form that came with your CP 2000 notice to indicate whether you agree or disagree with their findings. That form is crucial for proper processing.
Has anyone had success with requesting a payment plan through the CP 2000 response? I got hit with a similar notice and owe around $3000, but there's no way I can pay that all at once right now.
Yes! I just went through this. When you respond to the CP 2000, there's usually a payment options section on the response form. You can check the box indicating you can't pay in full. Once they process your response and send the final bill, you can set up an installment agreement online through the IRS website for balances under $50,000. I set mine up for $100/month and it was super easy to do online. Just make sure you actually set it up once you get the final bill - don't ignore it or they'll start collections.
Mikayla Davison
Don't forget the other option - you can visit your local IRS Taxpayer Assistance Center in person! You need to schedule an appointment first (call 844-545-5640), but I've found it WAY easier to get through on that appointment line than the general IRS number. When I had a missing W-2 issue two years ago, I got an appointment within a week. Brought my last paystub, explained the situation, and they helped me fill out the 4852 right there. The agent even called my employer while I was sitting there!
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Oliver Cheng
ā¢That's a great suggestion! Is there anything specific I would need to bring to the appointment besides my last paystub? Would I need to bring a partially completed 4852 form too?
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Mikayla Davison
ā¢Definitely bring your ID, Social Security card, last paystub, and any communication you've had with your employer about the missing W-2. It's helpful to bring a partially completed Form 4852 too, but not required - they can help you fill it out from scratch if needed. Also bring your previous year's tax return if you have it, as this helps them verify your identity. And if you've already started working on this year's return, bring that draft too. The more documentation you have, the smoother the appointment will go!
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Adrian Connor
Has anyone had issues after filing with Form 4852? I'm in the same boat (can't reach IRS, employer ghosting me on W-2) but worried about potential audits or delays in processing my return.
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Aisha Jackson
ā¢I used Form 4852 last year and had zero issues. Got my refund in about 3 weeks. Just make sure your numbers are as accurate as possible from your last paystub. The main thing IRS looks for is if your reported income matches what your employer eventually reports to them.
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