IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

CosmicCadet

•

Late to the party but another option: calculate your taxes ALL THREE WAYS! Run the numbers as: 1. Married filing jointly 2. Married filing separately 3. As if you were both still single (for comparison) This will show you the exact marriage penalty/bonus in your situation. My wife and I have similar incomes to you guys ($170k and $135k) and we found filing jointly saved us about $3,800 compared to separate even though we have the "penalty" compared to when we were single. Tax software makes this pretty easy to model different scenarios.

0 coins

Omar Fawaz

•

Great advice from everyone here! As someone who went through this exact situation two years ago (similar incomes, newly married), I can confirm that running the calculations both ways is absolutely worth it. One thing I'd add that hasn't been mentioned much - don't forget about retirement account contribution limits if you're both maxing out 401(k)s. The income limits for IRA deductibility change when you're married filing jointly, and with your combined income around $320k, you might lose the ability to deduct traditional IRA contributions that you could make when single. Also, if either of you contributes to an HSA, those limits and eligibility rules can change too. We ended up saving about $4,200 by filing jointly despite losing some deductions we had when single. The higher standard deduction and avoiding the loss of various credits made joint filing the clear winner for us. Definitely echo the suggestion to use tax software to model both scenarios - seeing the actual dollar difference makes the decision much easier than trying to figure it out theoretically!

0 coins

Don't forget that even though you filed an extension, you still need to submit your return by October 15th to avoid late filing penalties! Extension season always goes by faster than people expect.

0 coins

Beth Ford

•

And remember the extension was only for filing the paperwork, not for paying what you owe. If you didn't pay enough with your extension request in April, you might have penalties and interest accruing since then even with an approved extension.

0 coins

StarGazer101

•

Just wanted to chime in with my experience - I switched from TurboTax to FreeTaxUSA after filing an extension and it worked perfectly! The key thing to remember is that your extension (Form 4868) is completely separate from your actual tax return filing method. I was in a similar boat with TurboTax trying to charge me $89 for federal plus state fees. FreeTaxUSA ended up costing me only $15 for state filing (federal was completely free) and walked me through everything step by step. The interface isn't as fancy as TurboTax but it gets the job done and their support was actually more helpful when I had questions. One tip: make sure you have all your documents organized before you start with any new service since you'll be entering everything fresh. Also double-check that any estimated tax payments you made with your extension are properly reflected in the payments section of your return. Good luck!

0 coins

Dana Doyle

•

Thanks for sharing your experience with FreeTaxUSA! I'm definitely leaning towards switching away from TurboTax at this point. Quick question - when you say you entered everything fresh, did you have to manually type in all your W-2 and 1099 information again, or does FreeTaxUSA have any way to import or scan documents? I have quite a few forms this year and I'm dreading having to re-enter everything by hand if there's a better way.

0 coins

Why Do My 2021 IRS Transcripts Show Six Unclaimed $800 Monthly Refunds (Jul-Dec) Plus a $12,199 Refund in Feb 2022?

Looking at my 2021 transcript and I'm confused. I'm seeing multiple $800 refunds being issued throughout 2021 starting from July through December, but I never received any of this money. Looking at the exact transcript entries: 971 Notice issued - 04-01-2021 - $0.00 971 Notice issued - 05-24-2021 - $0.00 Then starting in July, I see this pattern repeating every month: 766 Credit to your account - 07-19-2021 - -$900.00 846 Refund issued - 07-15-2021 - $900.00 290 Additional tax assessed - 20212605 07-19-2021 - $0.00 16254-999-05031-1 766 Credit to your account - 08-23-2021 - -$900.00 846 Refund issued - 08-13-2021 - $900.00 290 Additional tax assessed - 20213005 08-16-2021 - $0.00 16254-999-05011-1 290 Additional tax assessed - 20213105 08-23-2021 - $0.00 16254-999-05032-1 766 Credit to your account - 09-20-2021 - -$900.00 846 Refund issued - 09-15-2021 - $900.00 290 Additional tax assessed - 20213505 09-20-2021 - $0.00 16254-999-05033-1 766 Credit to your account - 10-25-2021 - -$900.00 846 Refund issued - 10-15-2021 - $900.00 290 Additional tax assessed - 20214005 10-25-2021 - $0.00 16254-999-05034-1 766 Credit to your account - 11-22-2021 - -$900.00 846 Refund issued - 11-15-2021 - $900.00 290 Additional tax assessed - 20214405 11-22-2021 - $0.00 16254-999-05035-1 766 Credit to your account - 12-20-2021 - -$900.00 846 Refund issued - 12-15-2021 - $900.00 290 Additional tax assessed - 20214805 12-20-2021 - $0.00 16254-999-05036-1 Then in 2022, there's even more confusion - I see these credits: 766 Credit to your account - 04-15-2022 - -$5,800.00 766 Credit to your account - 04-15-2022 - -$4,000.00 768 Earned income credit - 04-15-2022 - -$5,399.00 846 Refund issued - 02-24-2022 - $13,199.00 This Product Contains Sensitive Taxpayer Data Can someone explain what all these transactions mean? Should I be worried about these monthly $900 refunds that I never received? Why do they keep showing up with credits and assessments? And what's with all those 16254-999-number codes after each additional tax assessed line? The pattern is so consistent each month but I definitely didn't receive six different $900 refunds in 2021. Also confused about the large refund in February 2022 - I did receive a tax refund but I'm not sure if it matches this $13,199 amount shown in the transcript.

Yara Nassar

•

def check ur bank statements for those dates. sometimes they come from different names not just 'IRS

0 coins

I went through something similar last year with missing Child Tax Credit payments. Here's what worked for me: First, call the IRS Child Tax Credit Update Portal helpline (not the main number) - it's usually less busy. Second, gather ALL your bank statements for July-December 2021 and check for deposits from "IRS TREAS" or "US TREASURY" - sometimes they don't show as "IRS". Third, if you truly didn't receive them, you'll need to file Form 8812 with your 2021 return to claim the missing credits. The IRS has been dealing with tons of these cases since the advance payments started, so they have a process for it. Just be prepared with documentation showing you never received the payments when you call!

0 coins

I went through this exact same situation two years ago! You definitely need to pay quarterly taxes on that income even without the LLC formed yet. The IRS doesn't care about your business structure - they care about the income you're earning. With $3,500 so far this year, you're likely looking at owing around $500-700 in self-employment tax alone (that's the Social Security/Medicare tax at 15.3%), plus regular income tax on top of that. If you expect to make more throughout the year, you could easily hit that $1,000 threshold that triggers the quarterly payment requirement. My advice: don't wait until you form the LLC. Calculate your estimated taxes now using Form 1040-ES and make the payment. You can always adjust future quarters once your LLC is formed. The penalties for underpayment can be way more expensive than just paying a bit extra now to be safe. Also, keep those spreadsheets organized! You'll need them for Schedule C when you file, whether you're still a sole proprietor or have formed the LLC by then.

0 coins

This is super helpful, thank you! I'm definitely going to calculate my estimated taxes this week. Quick question though - when you mention the $500-700 in self-employment tax, is that for the entire year or just what I owe so far on the $3,500? I'm trying to figure out if I should base my quarterly payment on what I've earned so far or try to estimate what I'll make for the full year. Also, did you end up having any issues transitioning from sole proprietor to LLC mid-year when you filed your taxes?

0 coins

Great question! As someone who's helped many clients through this transition, I want to clarify a few key points that might save you some headaches. First, regarding the $500-700 self-employment tax estimate - that would be roughly what you'd owe for the full year if you only made $3,500 total. But since you're asking about quarterly payments, you need to project your full-year income. If you think you'll make $10,000+ this year, you're looking at significantly higher tax obligations. For quarterly payments, you should estimate your total annual business income, then pay 25% of your expected annual tax liability each quarter. Don't just base it on what you've earned so far - the IRS wants you to pay as you earn throughout the year. Regarding the LLC transition mid-year: it's actually pretty seamless for tax purposes. You'll report all your business income for the entire year on Schedule C, whether it was earned as a sole proprietor or after LLC formation. The LLC formation date doesn't create a tax filing break - it's all one continuous business year on your personal return. One tip: if you're unsure about your projections, it's often safer to pay a bit more in estimated taxes rather than underpay. You'll get any overpayment back as a refund, but underpayment penalties can be costly and annoying to deal with.

0 coins

Does anyone know if I can still do this recharacterization thing for my 2024 contribution? I contributed to a Roth earlier this year but just realized my income will be too high.

0 coins

Julia Hall

•

Yes, you can recharacterize a 2024 Roth contribution to Traditional until the tax filing deadline in 2025 (including extensions). So you have plenty of time. I'd recommend doing it sooner rather than later though, because any earnings that accumulate will also be moved over, and that can complicate the tax calculations.

0 coins

Ava Martinez

•

Just wanted to add another perspective on this situation. I had a very similar mess with my 2023 Roth contribution and recharacterization timing, and what really helped me was understanding that the IRS treats the recharacterization as if you had made the correct choice from the beginning. The key insight that wasn't immediately obvious to me: when you recharacterize in 2024 for a 2023 contribution, you're not making a new 2024 contribution - you're retroactively changing what type of contribution you made in 2023. This is why your 2024 Roth contribution is completely separate and valid. Make sure when you're entering the 1099-R information in your tax software that you're categorizing it correctly. The recharacterization 1099-R should be coded as "N" and the conversion should be coded as "2". If your software is still showing over-contribution after entering these correctly, you may need to manually override the calculation or seek help from a tax professional who understands backdoor Roth conversions. Also double-check that your custodian reported everything with the correct tax year designations on the 1099-Rs. Sometimes they get confused about which year a recharacterized contribution should be attributed to.

0 coins

GalaxyGlider

•

This is really helpful clarification! I'm dealing with something similar and was panicking about the over-contribution warnings in my tax software. Just to make sure I understand - when the 1099-R shows the recharacterization with code N, I should enter that but NOT count it as a new contribution for 2024 limits, right? And @Ava Martinez, when you mention "manually override the calculation" - did you have to do that in your tax software, or did entering the codes correctly make it calculate properly? I'm using TurboTax and it's still showing I'm over the limit even after entering all the 1099-R information.

0 coins

Prev1...35863587358835893590...5644Next