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I got the same email and was panicking too! Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences here - it really helped calm my nerves. I decided to check my 2018 return by manually comparing my W-2s to what was imported into TurboTax, and thankfully everything matched up correctly. For anyone still worried about this, the key takeaway seems to be that even if there was an error, the 3-year statute of limitations has passed for most 2018 returns (unless you had major underreporting). So while it's worth checking for peace of mind, you're probably not going to get hit with surprise back taxes at this point. The bigger concern would be if you overpaid and missed the window to get that money back, but there's nothing you can do about that now. Really appreciate all the helpful info from the tax professionals in this thread!
Thanks for sharing your experience! I'm in a similar boat - got the same TurboTax email and was really stressed about it. Reading through everyone's responses here has been super helpful. It sounds like most people who checked found either no errors or minor discrepancies that don't really matter anymore due to the statute of limitations. I think I'm going to follow your lead and manually compare my W-2s to what's in my 2018 TurboTax return, just for peace of mind. Even if I find something, at least I'll know where I stand rather than wondering about it. Really appreciate how this community came together to help explain what's going on with this notice!
I'm an enrolled agent and wanted to add some clarity here. The TurboTax notice is legitimate - they discovered their W-2 import feature had bugs that affected some 2018 returns. The most common issues I've seen are incorrect withholding amounts in boxes 2 and 17, and problems with box 12 codes (like retirement plan contributions). For most people, you're protected by the statute of limitations at this point. However, I'd still recommend doing a quick manual comparison of your actual W-2 against what's showing in your 2018 TurboTax return, especially if you remember having multiple W-2s or complex box 12 entries that year. If you do find discrepancies, don't panic. Document what you find, but remember that for routine errors on 2018 returns, both the IRS collection period and your refund claim period have likely expired. The peace of mind from knowing your situation is usually worth the 15-20 minutes it takes to check.
Slight tangent but might be useful - watch out for the "substantially equal periodic payments" rule getting confused with the rollover rule. My advisor messed this up for me. I thought I could take out regular payments from my IRA without penalty using the 72(t) SEPP program AND do a 60-day rollover in the same year. Turns out doing a rollover terminates your SEPP plan and triggers penalties on ALL previous distributions. Cost me thousands in surprise taxes. Just mentioning this because sometimes when people are looking at ways to access retirement funds early, these different rules get mixed up.
This is a really important point! The IRS rules around retirement accounts have so many overlapping restrictions. I've found the combination of 60-day rollover limits, once-per-year rollover rules, and SEPP regulations super confusing. Would you mind sharing more about what happened with your situation? Did you end up having to pay penalties on all your SEPP withdrawals from previous years too?
Great question about Roth IRA rollovers! I've been through something similar and learned the hard way about the complexity of these rules. One important detail I haven't seen fully addressed - when you withdraw from a Roth IRA, the IRS considers withdrawals to come from contributions first (FIFO - first in, first out). So if you've contributed $20,000 over the years and your account is worth $25,000, your first $20,000 withdrawn would be considered contributions and wouldn't face the 10% penalty regardless of the rollover. However, once you hit the earnings portion (that $5,000 in my example), those ARE subject to the 10% penalty if you're under 59½ - unless you complete a valid 60-day rollover or qualify for an exception. The tricky part with your dual withdrawal scenario is that even if both withdrawals combined stay within your contribution basis, you still can only do ONE rollover per 12-month period. So if something goes wrong and you can't complete the rollover for any reason, you'd want to make sure your total withdrawal amount doesn't exceed your contribution basis to avoid penalties on earnings. I'd strongly recommend getting documentation from your IRA custodian showing exactly how much you've contributed versus earned before making any withdrawals. This gives you a clear picture of your penalty-free withdrawal capacity.
The most important thing here is to just file ASAP! I put off filing late once and it only made the penalties worse. Even if you can't pay what you owe right now, file the return anyway and then set up a payment plan.
True! And don't forget you might qualify for first-time penalty abatement if you've had a good filing history before this. The IRS isn't always the monster people make them out to be. Call them and explain your situation after filing.
Just want to add some reassurance here - I was in the exact same situation two years ago and it really wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Filed about 3 weeks late using TurboTax (similar to FreeTaxUSA) and the whole process was identical to filing on time. The key things that helped me: 1) File for tax year 2023 (not 2024), 2) E-filing still works normally even after the deadline, and 3) If you're getting a refund, you won't face penalties - just a delayed refund. I ended up owing about $200 and the penalty was only around $15 total. Way less scary than I'd built it up in my head! The IRS even sent me a clear breakdown of exactly what the penalty was for. Don't beat yourself up about it - life happens and this is more common than you think. Just get it filed in the next few days and you'll be fine!
Has anyone used H&R Block's expat tax service? I'm in a similar situation (US citizen in Auckland) and wondering if they're any good for international situations. Their regular service messed up my taxes before I left the States so I'm hesitant, but they advertise an expat specialty service.
I used them last year and it was a disaster. The "expat specialist" didn't know about the US-NZ totalization agreement for social security, and they missed claiming foreign tax credits properly. Ended up having to file an amended return with a different preparer. Spent way more in the end than if I'd gone with a true international tax specialist from the start.
I went through this exact same situation last year! The key thing to remember is that the US tax year mismatch with NZ isn't as complicated as it seems - you just report your NZ income earned during the US tax year (Jan-Dec 2023) on your US return. A couple of practical tips from my experience: 1. Keep detailed records of your income from both countries with dates - this makes everything easier 2. The Foreign Tax Credit can be really valuable, but you'll want to calculate whether that or the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion gives you better tax savings 3. Don't forget about potentially reporting any NZ bank accounts on your FBAR if the total exceeds $10,000 at any point during the year One thing I wish I'd known earlier - make sure you understand NZ's tax residency rules too. Since you qualify as a tax resident there, you'll need to report your US income on your NZ return as well. The timing can get tricky since you might file your US return in April but your NZ return isn't due until July. If you're comfortable with TurboTax, their Premier version handles foreign income reporting pretty well. Just make sure you have all your NZ pay slips converted to USD using the proper exchange rates for when you earned the income.
Chloe Harris
Hey has anyone used those special tax categories for "collectibles" for vintage clothing? I heard vintage items might qualify for different tax treatment if they're considered collectibles rather than regular inventory. Wondering if it's worth looking into for my higher-end pieces?
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Javier Morales
ā¢The collectibles classification is really more relevant when you're selling investments like art, coins, or very high-value vintage items that have been held as investments for more than a year. For most regular vintage clothing resellers, your inventory is just that - regular business inventory. Unless you're selling extremely rare museum-quality vintage pieces (think original 1950s Dior or similar) that have been appreciating as investments, you'll generally just report everything as regular business income on Schedule C. The collectibles tax rate (28%) typically applies to long-term capital gains on collectible items sold as investments, not inventory sold in the normal course of business.
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Laila Fury
Great thread! As someone who's been doing vintage reselling for a few years now, I want to add a few practical tips that might help: First, definitely start treating this as a business from day one - it'll make your life so much easier come tax time. Open a separate checking account for all business transactions, even if it's just a basic free account. This makes tracking income and expenses way cleaner than mixing everything with personal finances. For inventory tracking, I learned the hard way that you need to track not just what you buy and sell, but also what doesn't sell. Unsold inventory at year-end affects your cost of goods sold calculation. I use a simple system where I photograph each item with a price tag when I acquire it, then update my spreadsheet when it sells. One thing I wish someone had told me early on: keep receipts for EVERYTHING related to the business. Gas to drive to estate sales, parking meters at flea markets, even the plastic bags and hangers you use. It all adds up and can significantly reduce your taxable income. Also, don't forget about the home office deduction if you use part of your home for storing inventory or doing business tasks like photographing items and managing listings. Even a small percentage can make a difference. The learning curve is steep but totally manageable once you get systems in place!
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Sean Kelly
ā¢This is such helpful advice! I'm just getting started with my vintage clothing side business and the separate bank account tip makes so much sense. Quick question - when you mention photographing items with price tags for inventory tracking, do you mean the price you paid for them or the price you're planning to sell them for? I've been inconsistent about this and want to make sure I'm doing it right for tax purposes. Also, regarding the home office deduction - I use my spare bedroom to store inventory and do all my listing/photography work. Do you know if there's a minimum square footage requirement or can I deduct even a small space?
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