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Ask the community...

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7 One thing nobody's mentioned yet - remember you can choose SPECIFIC LOTS when selling RSUs. You don't have to sell entire batches. Many brokers default to FIFO (first in, first out) but you can typically select exactly which shares to sell. This lets you fine-tune your tax strategy even further.

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13 How exactly do you select specific lots? Is that something you do through your broker platform or when filing taxes?

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7 You do this through your broker at the time of sale. Most major platforms (Fidelity, E*TRADE, Schwab, etc.) let you choose "Sell specified lots" instead of the default FIFO method when placing a sell order. You'll see a list of your lots with their purchase dates and costs, and can select exactly which ones to sell. You need to do this BEFORE executing the sale - you can't change it when filing taxes. If you don't specify, your broker will use their default method (usually FIFO) and report that to the IRS.

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5 Just adding another consideration - if you've got other income/loss events this year, that might influence your decision. I ended up selling some underwater RSUs (at a loss) to offset gains from other investments. Tax-loss harvesting can be a powerful strategy!

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17 Can you actually claim losses on RSUs? I thought since you're taxed on the value when they vest, your cost basis is that vesting price, so if they go down after vesting and you sell, you can claim that as a capital loss?

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Exactly right! Your cost basis for RSUs is indeed the fair market value on the vesting date (which you already paid ordinary income tax on). So if the stock price drops after vesting and you sell below that vesting price, you can absolutely claim a capital loss. This is actually a common situation in volatile markets - you get taxed on the full vesting value as ordinary income, but then can offset other gains with the capital loss if the stock drops. Just remember the $3,000 annual limit on deducting net capital losses against ordinary income, though unused losses carry forward to future years.

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My sister-in-law works at the IRS and said they NEVER just freeze accounts out of nowhere for simply filing late. They have to send multiple notices including a final certified letter with 30 days to respond before taking any action like that. The whole process takes at least 6+ months minimum, often years. The only time they move faster is if they suspect actual tax fraud or if someone is actively hiding assets, which doesn't sound like your situation at all. Just file ASAP, pay what you can, and respond to any notices you get.

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Madison Tipne

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Thank you so much for this! I've been stressing for days thinking they could just take my money without warning. I'm going to file this weekend for sure and set up a payment plan. Really appreciate the inside perspective.

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James Johnson

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That's actually not totally true. If you have prior judgments or liens from previous tax years, they CAN move much faster on current year issues. Happened to my cousin. Best to check if you have any previous tax issues before assuming you have months to resolve it.

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Malik Thomas

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I totally understand your panic - I was in almost the exact same situation two years ago. Missed the deadline by about 6 weeks and was convinced the IRS was going to empty my account overnight. Here's what actually happened: I filed late (with penalties), set up a payment plan for what I owed, and never heard from them again except for the monthly payment confirmations. No scary letters, no account freezing, nothing dramatic at all. The key things that helped me: 1) Filed as soon as I realized my mistake, 2) Paid what I could upfront (even though it was only about 30% of what I owed), and 3) set up an automatic payment plan for the rest. The IRS website makes it pretty easy to do the payment plan online. Your $5,300 estimate sounds very manageable for a payment plan. Even if you could only pay $200/month, that would show good faith and keep you in compliance. The relief you'll feel once you just file and get it sorted is incredible.

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My tax guy told me there's a way to partially benefit from both if you have 2+ kids and don't max out the FSA. For example: - 2 kids with $20k in childcare expenses - Put $3k in FSA (not the full $5k) - Now you can claim $3k of expenses for the credit ($6k limit - $3k FSA) - Get 20% credit on that $3k = $600 tax credit This way you get both the tax-free FSA benefit AND a partial childcare credit. Might be worth running the numbers to see if this combo approach works better for your specific tax situation.

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Aisha Hussain

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I tried that exact approach but it didn't work out for me. I think it depends on your tax bracket? In the 24% bracket, I was better off just maxing the FSA at $5k and forgetting about the credit.

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NebulaNinja

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This is exactly the kind of frustrating tax situation that trips up so many parents! I went through the same confusion last year with my daughter's daycare costs. The key insight everyone's sharing is correct - with one child, the $3,000 expense limit for the childcare tax credit is what kills your ability to use both benefits. Since you're already using $5,000 in FSA funds, you've exceeded that $3,000 limit before you even get to claim the credit. One thing to consider for next year: if your daycare costs are that high anyway, you might want to run the numbers on whether maxing out the FSA at $5,000 gives you more tax savings than trying to optimize between the two benefits. In most cases, the pre-tax savings from the FSA (especially when you factor in avoiding FICA taxes) beat the 20% credit rate. Also worth noting - some employers offer dependent care assistance programs beyond just FSAs that might help with those brutal daycare costs. Mine offers backup care services and discounts at certain daycare centers. Might be worth checking with HR to see what other family benefits are available that you might not be utilizing.

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Liam O'Connor

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One thing nobody mentioned yet - make sure your daycare gives you a statement with their tax ID number (EIN or SSN) at the end of the year. You need this regardless of whether you're claiming the credit or using FSA funds. If they refuse or seem sketchy about providing it, that's a huge red flag!

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Just wanted to add another perspective here - I'm a tax preparer and see this confusion all the time! For your 2023 situation, you're correct that you can't claim the Child Care Tax Credit for the $495 that was reimbursed through your DCFSA. Your tax software is probably asking for the provider info because it needs to verify that you used qualified expenses, even if you're not getting an additional credit. You should enter the provider information but indicate that the expenses were reimbursed. Regarding your daycare's offer for 2024 - this is definitely unusual and potentially problematic. Legitimate daycare providers should charge the same rate regardless of your tax choices. They have no way to know if you claim the credit, and it doesn't affect their tax liability. I'd be cautious about any provider trying to tie their pricing to your tax decisions. For your planning, with expected costs of $9-10K and a $5K DCFSA contribution, you'd potentially be able to claim the Child Care Credit on expenses above the $5K that wasn't covered by your FSA. Just remember the credit has income limits and phases out at higher income levels. Make sure to keep all your receipts and get the provider's tax ID regardless of which benefits you use!

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Ava Rodriguez

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Late to the party but just wanted to say THANK YOU to everyone who contributed to this thread! I've been filing my taxes wrong for the past 2 years because my tax guy didn't understand how DCFSA and the Child Care Credit interact. We have twins and spend about $14k on childcare annually. We max out our DCFSA at $5k, but I had no idea we could claim the additional expenses (up to $6k total for two kids) for the Care Credit. Just amended my 2023 return and will be getting back over $1,200! This is why I love reddit - learn something new every day that actually saves real money. Checking out that taxr.ai thing too, sounds like it might be useful for some other questions I have.

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Chloe Zhang

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Great question Andre! You're mostly right but there's actually a bit more nuance here that could benefit you. With one child, the Child and Dependent Care Credit allows up to $3,000 in qualifying expenses, while your DCFSA maxes out at $5,000. Since you contributed the full $5,000 to your DCFSA, you've actually exceeded the $3,000 credit limit already. However, here's where it gets interesting - if your total childcare expenses were $7,800 and you used $5,000 through DCFSA, you have $2,800 in remaining expenses. Since this is under the $3,000 limit for one child, you could potentially claim a credit on that $2,800! The credit percentage ranges from 20-35% based on your AGI, so even at the minimum rate you'd be looking at a $560 credit ($2,800 Ɨ 20%). Not a huge amount but definitely worth claiming if you qualify income-wise. Just make sure when you're entering this into TurboTax that you're not double-counting the expenses you already got the tax benefit from through your DCFSA. The software should guide you through this, but it's good to understand the mechanics behind it!

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