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Just to add something helpful to the original question about inventory and profit - remember that cash flow and taxable income are two different things! You might be cash flow negative (spending more than you bring in) while still having taxable profit. For your reselling business, you should definitely be tracking inventory properly. When you buy $4-9k of inventory, that's not an immediate expense - it's an asset. Only when you sell an item does it become an expense via COGS. This is why many businesses use the accrual method of accounting rather than cash basis.
Can you explain more about cash vs accrual accounting? I think this might be what's confusing me with my own small business. When should I be using each one?
Cash accounting is when you record income when you receive payment and expenses when you actually pay them. It's simpler and many small businesses start with this method. Accrual accounting records income when you earn it (even if not paid yet) and expenses when you incur them (even if you haven't paid yet). For inventory-heavy businesses like reselling, accrual often gives a more accurate picture because it matches the expense of goods with the revenue they generate. This prevents situations where you buy a ton of inventory one year but sell it the next, which would distort your profit picture on cash basis.
Are there any good free resources to learn more about business accounting? I'm in a similar situation as the original poster and feel completely lost.
Have you guys ever tried running the numbers both ways? That's what I did last year. Just entered everything in TurboTax twice - once filing joint and once filing separate. Took an extra hour but I could see exactly which one gave us a better refund. For us, joint was better by about $2,100.
This is actually smart but annoying to do. Does TurboTax charge you for both calculations or just the one you end up filing?
TurboTax only charges you when you actually file, so you can run both scenarios without paying twice. You just need to save two separate files/accounts - one for each filing method. Then compare the results before deciding which one to actually submit and pay for. I found it a bit tedious but worth the peace of mind knowing I was choosing the best option. Just make sure you only file one of them!
One thing nobody mentioned - if either of you has income-based student loan payments, filing separately might save you money overall even if you pay more in taxes! My wife and I file separately because her income-based repayment plan would jump by $400/month if we filed jointly. The tax hit is about $1,800 more, but we save $4,800 on loan payments, so it's worth it for us.
Totally this! My husband and I are in the exact same boat. Our tax guy told us to file separately last year because of my IBR plan. We paid like $1,200 more in taxes but saved over $3,000 in student loan payments. Math doesn't lie!
One thing nobody's mentioned is that some employers misclassify workers as 1099 contractors when they should legally be W-2 employees. The IRS has specific criteria for determining worker status. If your employer controls when, where, and how you work, provides your equipment, and you're doing core business functions, you might actually be an employee by law. In that case, they're avoiding payroll taxes by classifying you as a contractor.
How risky is it to bring this up with an employer though? I've heard horror stories of people getting fired for questioning their 1099 status.
It can definitely be a delicate conversation. I recommend approaching it from an educational perspective rather than an accusatory one. Share what you've learned about the differences and express your concerns about proper classification. If you're worried about potential backlash, gather information about your specific situation first. The IRS has Form SS-8 that you can file to request a determination of worker status, and they'll evaluate whether you should be classified as an employee or contractor. This gives you official backing if you need to address it with your employer.
Have you calculated how much you'd save in taxes by switching to W-2? For me, the difference was about 7.65% of my income (the employer portion of FICA) minus whatever business deductions I was taking. If your business deductions are minimal, you're almost certainly better off as W-2.
Don't forget that as a W-2 employee, you also get unemployment insurance protection and workers' comp coverage. Those benefits have real value even if they don't show up directly in your paycheck.
In case this helps anyone else - make sure you're looking in the right place for your tax documents on Robinhood. They're not under the same menu as your regular statements. To find tax documents: 1. Go to Account 2. Select Statements & History 3. Choose Tax Documents (not Trade Confirmations) 4. Select the tax year Also, Robinhood sometimes releases tax forms in batches depending on the complexity of your investments. Crypto forms often come first, then stock forms later. If you had any complex situations (wash sales, corporate actions, etc.), your stock forms might be delayed until March.
Do you know if there's a way to see if my forms are still being processed or if they're just not going to send them? The tax deadline is getting closer and I'm getting nervous.
You can check the status of your tax forms by going to the Tax Documents section I mentioned and looking for a notice about "Remaining Forms." Robinhood usually indicates if you have forms that are still being processed. If there's no indication of pending forms, you may want to contact support directly. Another option is to look at your "Account Statement" for the year - it will show all your activity including stock trades and dividends. While not a substitute for official tax forms, it gives you the information you need to report your taxes properly.
Something similar happened to me last year. Did you have very minimal stock activity? If your total proceeds (not profits, but total sales) were under $20, Robinhood might not generate a 1099-B for stocks. Either way, you still need to report the income. Download your account statements and manually enter the information. It's a pain but better than getting a letter from the IRS later!
Lucy Lam
Another option you have is to just leave the extra payment on your account and apply it to your next estimated tax payment if you make those. I accidentally overpaid by $1,270 last year and just reduced my next quarterly payment by that amount. Saved me the hassle of requesting a refund. The IRS systems will recognize the credit and apply it correctly.
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Camila Jordan
β’I hadn't thought of that option. Do you know if there's a way to check online to confirm the overpayment is showing as a credit on my account? I'm a bit worried about skipping a future payment without knowing for sure the IRS has properly recorded the extra payment.
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Lucy Lam
β’Yes, you can check your account on the IRS website. Just go to irs.gov and use the "View Your Account" tool - you'll need to create an account if you don't already have one. It will show your current balance and any credits on your account. I'd recommend waiting about 2-3 weeks after both payments have processed before checking, as it takes some time for everything to show up correctly in their system. If you're planning to use the credit for a quarterly estimated payment, just make sure to check well before that payment is due to confirm everything looks right.
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Aidan Hudson
This happened to me too! Frustrating as heck. Everyone's given good advice, but one warning: if your double payment was for 2024 taxes (due April 2025), don't wait too long to request the refund. The IRS can take forever to process these requests. Took me almost 3 months to get my money back, and that was with regular calling to check status.
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Zoe Wang
β’Did you get any interest on the refund for the time they held your money? Seems like they should pay interest if they're holding onto a clear overpayment for 3 months!
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