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That could definitely be it! When you switch payment processors, the 1099-K reporting can create discrepancies that trigger CP136 notices. The new processor likely sent a 1099-K to the IRS with your total payments, and if that didn't match what you reported or if there was a timing difference between when payments were processed vs. when you recorded them, it would flag your account. I had to provide bank statements showing the actual deposit dates and amounts, plus documentation from both the old and new payment processors to reconcile the differences. The IRS just wanted to see that all the income was properly accounted for - they weren't trying to double-count anything, just making sure nothing was missed. Since you mentioned international clients, also check if there were any currency conversion differences that might have caused reporting mismatches between what the processor reported and what you filed.

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Liam Brown

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This is really helpful! I'm dealing with something similar - just switched from PayPal to Stripe for my freelance work and now I'm worried about potential mismatches. Did you have to respond within a specific timeframe, or could you take your time gathering all the documentation? Also, was the IRS understanding about the payment processor switch once you explained it, or did they still impose any penalties?

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StarStrider

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Don't stress too much about the CP136 - I know it's scary to get any notice from the IRS, but these are usually pretty routine adjustments. As a single-member LLC electing S-corp status, you're actually in a relatively straightforward situation compared to more complex business structures. Since you mentioned you're good about quarterly payments, the most likely scenarios are: 1) a timing issue where a payment was applied to the wrong quarter, 2) a 1099 discrepancy (especially with that payment processor change you mentioned), or 3) a simple data entry error on their end. The key is to read through the notice carefully - it should specify exactly what adjustment they made and why. If you disagree with their changes, you typically have 60-90 days to respond with supporting documentation. Don't ignore it, but also don't panic. Most of these get resolved pretty easily once you understand what triggered the adjustment. Keep running your screenplay consulting business as usual while you sort this out - one CP136 notice doesn't mean you're in serious trouble with the IRS!

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Zara Perez

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Having gone through an IRS audit that included donation verification, I'll add my experience. The IRS was primarily interested in ensuring I actually made the donations and that the values were reasonable. Having photos of the donated items was EXTREMELY helpful during my audit. The agent specifically commented that most people don't document that well. The detailed spreadsheet with brand names and descriptions also impressed them. For the acquisition dates of clothing, they accepted general statements like "accumulated over past 5-7 years through normal retail purchases." If you're already doing this level of documentation, crossing the $500 threshold really doesn't add meaningful audit risk. Split the donations if it makes you feel better, but you're already doing more documentation than most taxpayers!

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Daniel Rogers

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Was your audit in-person or by mail? I've heard horror stories about having to go to an IRS office with all your documentation.

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As someone who's been itemizing for years and dealing with similar donation situations, I think you're being very smart about documentation but maybe overthinking the $500 threshold a bit. The extra requirements for donations over $500 really aren't that burdensome if you're already keeping detailed records like you are. Since you're photographing items, using ItsDeductible for valuations, and maintaining a spreadsheet, you're already doing 90% of what's required for Form 8283 Section A. The main additional items you'd need are: how you acquired each item (for clothing, "purchased at retail" is fine), when you acquired it (general timeframes like "2019-2022" work), and your cost basis (what you originally paid - you can estimate reasonably). That said, there's absolutely nothing wrong with splitting donations between tax years for tax planning purposes. It's completely legitimate and might give you peace of mind. Just don't feel like you HAVE to do it - your current documentation approach puts you in a really good position either way. One tip: if you do go over $500, consider being slightly conservative with your valuations. ItsDeductible can sometimes be generous, and it's better to be defensible than aggressive.

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Sophie Duck

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to making significant charitable donations and have been worried about getting everything right. Your point about being slightly conservative with valuations makes a lot of sense - better to be safe than sorry. One question though - when you say "estimate reasonably" for cost basis, do you have any rule of thumb? Like if I'm donating a shirt valued at $10, should I estimate I originally paid $30-40 for it? I honestly have no memory of what most of these clothes cost when I bought them years ago. Also, has anyone here actually had the IRS question their clothing donation valuations? I keep reading about audit risk but wonder how often it actually happens for normal clothing donations like this.

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StarStrider

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I went through this exact situation last year with 3 years of unfiled returns. After getting burned by a company similar to Taxrise (paid $3,500 upfront and they basically did nothing for 6 months), I ended up working directly with the IRS. Here's what I learned: if you voluntarily file before the IRS comes after you, you're in a much better position. I was able to get First Time Penalty Abatement which eliminated about $2,800 in penalties, and set up a payment plan for the remaining balance. The key is getting your returns filed ASAP. The failure-to-file penalty is 10x worse than failure-to-pay, so even if you can't pay immediately, filing stops that clock from ticking. You can literally file online and request a payment plan at the same time. Don't let the stress paralyze you - the IRS is actually pretty reasonable to work with when you're proactive about fixing the situation. Save your money and handle it yourself or with a local tax pro, not these TV companies.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation with 2 years unfiled and have been putting it off because I'm so overwhelmed. When you say you worked directly with the IRS, did you just call them or is there a specific department for people with unfiled returns? Also, how long did the whole process take from filing to getting your payment plan approved?

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Nia Wilson

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@Zoe Papanikolaou I can help with this! When I worked directly with the IRS, I started by just calling their main taxpayer assistance line 1-800-829-1040 (.)You don t'need a special department - they can help with unfiled returns through the regular customer service. The timeline was actually pretty reasonable once I got started: - Filed all 3 years of back returns online: 2 weeks mostly (gathering documents -) IRS processed returns and sent balance notices: 4-6 weeks - Called to set up payment plan and request penalty abatement: Got approved same day over phone - Total time from starting to having everything resolved: about 2.5 months The hardest part was just making that first call, but the IRS representatives were actually quite helpful. They walked me through exactly what I needed to do and didn t'make me feel judged about being behind on filing. My advice: gather your tax documents first, then file the returns online through the IRS website or with tax software. Once you get the balance notices, THEN call to discuss payment options. Having the returns already filed shows good faith and puts you in a much stronger negotiating position.

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Omar Mahmoud

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As someone who's been through this nightmare, I want to echo what others have said about avoiding these TV tax relief companies. I actually fell for Taxrise's marketing two years ago when I was panicking about 4 years of unfiled returns. They took $4,200 upfront and promised to "settle my tax debt for pennies on the dollar." Six months later, all they had done was file my returns (which I could have done myself) and submit an Offer in Compromise application that got rejected because I obviously didn't qualify - something they should have known from the start. I ended up firing them and working with a local Enrolled Agent who charged me $150/hour. She got me set up with a reasonable payment plan in two weeks and helped me understand that my situation wasn't nearly as dire as Taxrise had made it seem. The "massive tax debt" they claimed I had was mostly just penalties that could be reduced through proper penalty abatement requests. Bottom line: these companies prey on fear and desperation. If you're behind on taxes, just file them ASAP (even if you can't pay) and work directly with the IRS or a local tax professional. You'll save thousands and actually get your problem solved instead of making it worse.

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This is exactly the kind of real experience people need to hear about. I'm curious - when you say the local Enrolled Agent helped you understand your situation "wasn't as dire," what specifically were Taxrise telling you that was wrong? Were they inflating the amount you owed or just being overly dramatic about the consequences? I'm trying to figure out if these companies deliberately scare people or if they're just incompetent.

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@Omar Mahmoud I think it s'definitely deliberate fearmongering on their part. These companies have a business model that depends on people being scared and desperate enough to pay large upfront fees. They prey on the fact that most people don t'understand tax law and are intimidated by the IRS. I ve'seen this pattern with multiple clients - the relief companies will quote inflated penalty calculations, talk about wage garnishments and asset seizures that may never happen, and make the whole situation sound like an emergency that only they can solve. Meanwhile, they downplay or don t'mention at all the legitimate options available directly through the IRS. The truth is, for most people behind on filing, the solution is pretty straightforward: file the returns, request penalty abatement if you qualify, and set up a payment plan if needed. No drama, no pennies "on the dollar schemes," just basic compliance with reasonable payment terms. But that doesn t'justify charging thousands in fees, so they create artificial urgency and complexity.

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Amaya Watson

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The Additional Medicare Tax at $200k is definitely a curveball that catches a lot of people off guard. I went through this exact situation two years ago when my income jumped from $185k to $230k due to a promotion and larger bonus structure. Here's what I learned the hard way: the key is to treat your base salary and bonus as separate withholding calculations. For your regular paychecks, you can use the IRS withholding calculator to determine the right additional amount for line 4(c) of your W-4. I ended up adding $312 per biweekly paycheck to cover the additional tax burden. For the bonus component, since it's taxed as supplemental income at the flat 22% rate (plus the 0.9% Additional Medicare Tax on amounts over $200k), you need to calculate if that withholding will be sufficient. In most cases with a 25% bonus component, you'll need additional withholding from your regular paychecks to cover the shortfall. One strategy that worked well for me was to calculate my total expected tax liability in January, subtract all expected withholding (including the flat rates on bonuses), then divide the difference by my remaining pay periods. This gave me a specific dollar amount to add to each regular paycheck. Also consider maxing out your 401(k) early in the year if possible - this reduces your taxable income during regular pay periods and gives you more take-home pay when you need it most, before the bonus hits.

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This is incredibly helpful! I'm in a similar boat - just got a promotion that will put me around $225k this year. The approach of treating base salary and bonus as separate withholding calculations makes so much sense. I'm curious about the timing aspect though - if I calculate my additional withholding amount in January based on expected bonus, but then my actual bonus ends up being different (higher or lower), how quickly can I adjust the W-4 to compensate? Can you submit multiple W-4 updates throughout the year without any issues from HR or the IRS? Also, when you mention maxing out 401(k) early, did you find that helpful even if it meant having no 401(k) deductions during the months when your bonus hit? I'm worried about the cash flow impact of front-loading too much.

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Lucy Taylor

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You can absolutely submit multiple W-4 updates throughout the year! I actually updated mine three times last year as my bonus projections changed. HR departments are used to this, especially for higher earners with variable compensation. The IRS doesn't care how many times you update as long as each W-4 is accurate for your current situation. Regarding the 401(k) front-loading timing - I actually found it worked really well even when my bonus hit during months with no 401(k) deductions. Here's why: let's say you normally contribute $1,875/month to hit the $22,500 limit. If you front-load and max out by August, you have $1,875 extra take-home pay September through December. When your December bonus hits and more gets withheld for taxes, you've already banked those extra funds from the earlier months. The key is making sure your employer does a "true-up" for matching contributions. Mine contributes an extra lump sum in February to ensure I get the full match even though I maxed out early. Without this feature, front-loading could cost you some employer match, so definitely verify this with HR first. One tip: I keep a simple spreadsheet tracking my year-to-date income and withholding each month. This helps me decide when to submit W-4 updates based on how my actual numbers are tracking versus my January projections.

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Javier Cruz

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation and wanted to share what's been working for me so far. I crossed $200k for the first time this year (base salary $165k plus quarterly bonuses that will likely total around $50k). What I found helpful was using the IRS withholding estimator quarterly rather than just once at the beginning of the year. Since your bonus amount can vary, I recalculate my withholding needs after each quarter based on actual YTD income and update my W-4 accordingly. For the Additional Medicare Tax specifically, I learned that your employer will automatically start withholding the extra 0.9% once your YTD wages exceed $200k, but they don't look at your projected annual income. So if you get a large bonus early in the year that pushes you over $200k, you might have too much Additional Medicare Tax withheld if your total annual income ends up being closer to the threshold. I've been setting aside 30% of each bonus payment in a separate account, then making estimated tax payments quarterly based on where my projections stand. This gives me more control than trying to perfectly calibrate payroll withholding, especially with the variable bonus component. One thing I wish someone had told me earlier: the $200k threshold is per person, not household. So if you're married filing jointly, each spouse gets their own $200k threshold for the Additional Medicare Tax (though it's $250k combined for other purposes).

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Ava Martinez

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This quarterly recalculation approach is brilliant! I wish I had thought of this instead of trying to get everything perfect at the beginning of the year. The point about the Additional Medicare Tax withholding starting automatically once you hit $200k YTD is something I hadn't considered - that could definitely lead to overwithholding if your income ends up being closer to the threshold than initially projected. I'm curious about your 30% rule for bonus set-asides. How did you arrive at that percentage? I've been trying to figure out the right amount to set aside from my bonuses and have been all over the place - sometimes 25%, sometimes 35% depending on how paranoid I'm feeling about owing at tax time. Also, the per-person threshold clarification is super helpful. I'm single so it doesn't apply to me directly, but I have friends who are married and I bet they don't realize it's per person for the Additional Medicare Tax. That could make a big difference in their withholding strategy.

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Amara Nnamani

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8 Microsoft has a free online version of Office (Word, Excel, PowerPoint) that you can use through a web browser at office.com. It's not as full-featured as the desktop version but might be enough for basic work tasks without having to pay for a subscription.

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Amara Nnamani

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25 The online version is super limited though. I tried using it for my job and couldn't do half the things I needed to in Excel. No advanced formulas or macros. Ended up having to buy the full version anyway.

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Another alternative worth considering is LibreOffice, which is completely free and open-source. It's compatible with Microsoft Office file formats and includes Writer (Word equivalent), Calc (Excel equivalent), and Impress (PowerPoint equivalent). While it may have a slightly different interface, it handles most business tasks well and could be a good temporary solution while you work on getting your employer to provide or reimburse the Microsoft Office subscription. I've used it for basic document editing and spreadsheet work and found it quite capable for most standard office tasks.

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That's a great suggestion! I actually used LibreOffice for a while when I was between jobs and couldn't afford Office. The compatibility with Microsoft formats is pretty good for most documents. Just be aware that if you're collaborating with colleagues who use Microsoft Office, you might run into some formatting issues occasionally, especially with complex spreadsheets or presentations. But for basic work tasks, it's definitely a solid free alternative while you're figuring out the reimbursement situation with your employer.

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