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Just wanna add something important that ppl often forget - registering a vehicle in a business name might affect your insurance requirements! Most personal auto policies won't cover a business-registered vehicle, so youll need commercial auto insurance which can be a lot more expensive. Make sure to factor that into ur costs when deciding if the tax benefit is worth it. My commercial policy for my business truck costs almost 2x what my personal vehicle costs.
Good point about insurance! Also worth noting that some states charge higher registration fees for business vehicles vs personal ones. In my state, the business registration was about 25% higher. Something else to factor into the total cost equation.
To answer ur question about LLC on the title - I did this last year for my business. The title will say "Your LLC Name" rather than your personal name. But heads up - some finance companies make it harder to get loans for business-owned vehicles and might require additional documentation or personal guarantees. This was easier for me when I went through a credit union that already had my business accounts rather than dealer financing.
That's super helpful! Did you need to provide any specific documents to the DMV to register it under your LLC? And did you run into any issues with insurance coverage when the vehicle was titled to your business instead of personally?
I had to bring my LLC formation documents and EIN letter from the IRS to the DMV. Some states also want to see your business license. The process was actually pretty straightforward - just took a little longer than a personal registration. Insurance was definitely different. My personal auto insurer wouldn't cover a business-titled vehicle, so I had to get a commercial auto policy. It was about 30% more expensive, but the good news is that commercial insurance is a legitimate business expense you can deduct. The insurance company wanted to know the percentage of business vs personal use, and they based some of their rates on that information. Make sure to shop around because the rates varied a lot between different insurance companies for the exact same coverage.
My CPA did a cost seg on my 4-plex from 2019 last year. The study shifted about $127,000 from 27.5 year property to 5/7/15 year property. With bonus depreciation we got a huge write-off. No audit issues at all. Make sure your study is done by an engineering firm that specializes in cost segregation - we used one that had actual engineers create the report and they were super detailed with their component breakdown. The real value came from having my wife qualify as a real estate professional - we were able to offset a ton of W2 income with the accelerated depreciation. Definitely worth the cost of the study.
What kind of documentation did the engineering firm require? My concern is that since it's been a few years since purchase, I might not have all the original construction details or receipts they might need.
They actually needed less than I expected. They used the purchase documents, property tax records, and some photos I already had. They also did a virtual walkthrough where I showed them around the property using my phone. For components they couldn't see (like wiring, plumbing systems), they based estimates on industry standards for the building type and age. What really mattered was having a qualified firm that understood both the engineering aspects AND the tax rules. They documented their methodology carefully which is what protects you in case of an audit. The IRS doesn't usually challenge properly performed studies, even after-the-fact ones.
Guys, be careful with this. I did a cost seg in 2021 for a property I bought in 2018 and got audited. The IRS disallowed a bunch of the reclassifications because our study didn't have enough documentation. Make sure whoever does ur study has a good track record defending their work in audits!!!
That's concerning. Was it a reputable firm that did your study? What specific documentation did the IRS say was lacking? I'm considering doing this too but worried about the audit risk.
Just wanted to add another perspective - I'm also a single mom who was on disability last year. Something important to know: whether you need to file taxes depends on the TYPE of disability benefits you received. If it was Social Security Disability Insurance (SSDI), that's potentially taxable. If it was Supplemental Security Income (SSI), that's generally not taxable. Did you get a Form SSA-1099 in the mail? That would indicate SSDI payments. Or did you get disability through a private insurance policy or your employer? Those are handled differently for tax purposes.
It was short-term disability through my previous employer for about 6 months. I did receive some tax form from them but I'd have to dig it out. Does that make a difference compared to SSDI?
Yes, that makes a big difference! Short-term disability through an employer is handled very differently than government disability programs. If your employer paid the premiums for your disability insurance, then the benefits you received are likely fully taxable (you should have received a W-2 or 1099 showing this income). However, if YOU paid the premiums with after-tax dollars, then the benefits might be completely tax-free. If the premiums were paid with a mix of employer and employee funds, then a portion would be taxable. Definitely look for that form - it's crucial for determining how much, if any, of your disability payments are taxable. This directly affects your eligibility for various tax credits too.
Wait, I'm confused about something else. You mentioned you're in school full-time - are you receiving any financial aid or scholarships? Some of those might be taxable too, and you might qualify for education credits like the American Opportunity Credit or Lifetime Learning Credit. Those could be worth looking into even if you don't have much other income!
This is a great point! I'm also a student parent and just found out I qualified for the American Opportunity Tax Credit which gave me $2,500 back even though my income was really low. Definitely worth checking if you're taking college courses.
The W4 changed dramatically in 2020, and the IRS has been tweaking withholding tables ever since. Your daughter probably filled out the old version years ago, and the employer has just been using that information. The new W4 doesn't use allowances anymore. I'd suggest she fill out a new W4 and on line 4(c) add additional withholding. For her income level, if she wants a small refund instead of owing, adding about $25 per paycheck in additional withholding should cover it if she gets paid biweekly.
How do you calculate the right amount for line 4(c)? Is there a formula or something? Also, is there any risk to withholding too much?
A quick way to estimate is to take the amount she owed this year ($320) and divide by the number of paychecks she receives annually. If she's paid biweekly, that's 26 paychecks, so about $12.50 per check. I suggested $25 to give a buffer for a small refund rather than owing. There's no real risk to withholding too much except that you're giving the government an interest-free loan of your money until you file your taxes and get a refund. Some people actually prefer larger refunds as a form of forced savings, even though financially it's not optimal.
Did her job change at all? Sometimes they classify workers differently from year to year which affects withholding. My daughter had this happen when she went from being classified as a regular employee one year to some kind of "seasonal employee" the next, even though she worked year-round.
Ravi Sharma
OP, make sure you've been filing Form 8606 for ALL years you made non-deductible traditional IRA contributions, not just for the conversion year! If you haven't been tracking your basis with Form 8606 each year, you might end up paying tax twice on your contributions. The most important thing with backdoor Roth is establishing that your traditional IRA contributions were non-deductible. Without Form 8606 history, the IRS has no way of knowing you already paid tax on that money.
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NebulaNomad
β’Is it possible to file previous years' Form 8606 if you missed them? I've been making non-deductible contributions for 3 years but only learned about Form 8606 recently.
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Ravi Sharma
β’Yes, you can and absolutely should file Form 8606 for previous years if you missed them. You'll need to submit them separately as standalone forms - you don't need to amend your entire return. There's no penalty for filing Form 8606 late if you're only establishing basis (though there would be if you were reporting distributions). File a separate Form 8606 for each tax year, make sure to use the form version for that specific tax year, and write "Filed Pursuant to Section 301.9100-2" at the top to indicate you're filing it late under the automatic extension provisions.
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Freya Thomsen
Does anyone know if this same TurboTax issue happens with partial Roth conversions? I converted $4000 of my $7000 traditional IRA to Roth in 2022, and I'm worried TurboTax will miss it too.
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Omar Fawaz
β’Partial conversions are even trickier in TurboTax. Search for "1099-R" like others suggested, but when it asks what you did with the money, choose "Converted part to a Roth IRA." Then you'll need to specify how much went to the Roth vs how much stayed in the traditional IRA. The pro-rata rule will likely apply in your case since you kept some in the traditional IRA.
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