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Has anyone used both H&R Block and a CPA and can share the actual cost difference? The online H&R Block option is showing me around $180 for self-employed but I'm guessing the in-person service costs more.
I've used both. H&R Block in-person cost me about $320 last year for a return with one W-2 and some 1099 freelance work. This year I switched to a local CPA who charged $650 for a much more complex return (added rental property and more extensive business deductions).
Don't forget to ask any potential tax preparer (H&R Block or CPA) about their audit protection policies! With your self-employment income and multiple streams, your audit risk is higher than average. Some H&R Block locations offer "Peace of Mind" protection but read the fine print carefully. A good CPA might cost more upfront but many include audit representation in their fee or offer it at a reasonable additional cost. I learned this the hard way when I got audited after using a budget tax service. Had to pay WAY more for representation than I would have just hiring a CPA from the start.
Just to add another data point - I've been using FreeTaxUSA for 3 years now after switching from TurboTax. The Deluxe version with Audit Assist is totally worth the small cost. It's WAY cheaper than TurboTax's audit defense. One thing to understand though - Audit Assist means they'll GUIDE you through an audit, not REPRESENT you. If you want actual representation where someone speaks to the IRS on your behalf, you'd need to hire a tax professional like a CPA or Enrolled Agent separately. No tax software company is going to send a representative to an audit for the prices they charge.
That's a good point about representation vs assistance. Do you know if TurboTax's audit defense actually provides representation? I always assumed they just helped with documentation too.
TurboTax's audit defense (which is provided through TaxAudit, not Intuit directly) does include representation. They actually assign a tax professional who can speak directly to the IRS on your behalf if you're audited. That's different than FreeTaxUSA's approach which is more consultative. But there's a major price difference - TurboTax charges around $50-60 for this coverage while FreeTaxUSA's Deluxe with Audit Assist is usually under $10. For many people with straightforward tax situations, the guidance approach is sufficient and much more cost-effective.
Has anyone here actually gone through an audit with either TurboTax or FreeTaxUSA's audit protection? I'm curious about real experiences rather than just the marketing details.
I had a CP2000 notice (not technically an audit but similar) last year and used FreeTaxUSA's Audit Assist. They were actually really helpful! They reviewed the notice with me, explained exactly what the IRS was questioning, and helped me gather the right documentation to respond. Ended up being a simple misunderstanding that we resolved quickly. The best part was being able to talk to someone who could translate the confusing IRS language into plain English. For the price difference between FTU and TurboTax, I thought it was excellent value.
There's another factor nobody has mentioned yet: the AMT (Alternative Minimum Tax). If you're in the income range where AMT might apply, sometimes filing separately can help one spouse avoid triggering it. With your combined income over $395k, you're definitely in AMT territory. The AMT can effectively eliminate some of the benefit of your itemized deductions when filing jointly. Also, the SALT (State And Local Tax) deduction cap of $10k affects high-income earners in high-tax states like California. When filing jointly, you're limited to $10k total. But filing separately gives each spouse a $5k limit, which can be more efficient depending on how your state taxes and property taxes are allocated.
That's really interesting about the AMT and SALT deduction cap! I didn't consider how those might interact differently between MFJ and MFS. Looking at our tax breakdown more carefully, I do see both of those factors at play. The SALT limitation does seem to be hitting us hard with MFJ, and splitting it does appear more beneficial in our case. Is there a good rule of thumb for when high-income couples in high-tax states should consider MFS instead of automatically going with MFJ?
There's no simple rule of thumb because it depends on too many factors specific to your situation. However, if you meet these criteria, it's definitely worth calculating both ways: 1) You live in a high-tax state like CA, NY, NJ, CT, etc. 2) Your combined income is over $300k 3) You have substantial itemized deductions, particularly SALT over $10k 4) Your incomes are somewhat balanced (not one extremely high earner and one low/no earner) Remember that filing separately does come with some disadvantages - you lose certain tax credits (like child and dependent care credit), both spouses must either itemize or take standard deduction, and you can't contribute to a Roth IRA if your income exceeds $10k. One last consideration: if either of you has income-based student loan payments, filing separately might drastically increase those payments, potentially wiping out any tax savings.
Has anyone noticed that tax software often gets MFS vs MFJ wrong? I'm a retired accountant and I've seen this multiple times with clients. The big tax software companies optimize their algorithms for the most common scenarios, and MFS being better than MFJ is relatively uncommon. Try calculating your taxes manually both ways as a triple-check. Pay special attention to: 1. SALT deduction limits ($10k joint vs. $5k each separate) 2. AMT calculations 3. State tax bracket differences 4. Phaseouts of deductions and credits at different income levels
I experienced this too! H&R Block's software initially said MFJ was better for us, but when my accountant friend calculated it manually, MFS saved us about $3,200 due to state tax interactions that the software missed. Would you recommend just always calculating both ways manually instead of trusting the software recommendation?
Just to add another perspective - my wife and I were in almost this exact situation last year. She started a small craft business that made about $3,500, and we were paying about $18,000 for ACA health insurance. Our tax preparer said we could only deduct health insurance premiums up to the amount of her business profit, so we got a $3,500 deduction. Better than nothing! Make sure your wife keeps good records of all business expenses to reduce her net income for self-employment tax purposes. Also, don't forget to look into whether you qualify for the home office deduction if she's doing any of the pet sitting business administration from home. Every little bit helps when you're self-employed!
Thanks for sharing your experience! Did your wife formally register her business, or was it just reported on Schedule C? And did your tax preparer mention anything about the ACA marketplace insurance specifically working differently with this deduction?
She never formally registered it - just reported everything on Schedule C using her SSN. No business registration, no EIN, nothing fancy required. Regarding ACA marketplace insurance, there's nothing special about it from a self-employed health insurance deduction perspective. The key is that you're paying the premiums with post-tax dollars (not getting a subsidy). If you were getting premium tax credits, you'd need to account for that, but since you mentioned you're unsubsidized, it should be straightforward.
One thing to watch out for - if your MAGI is low enough that you COULD qualify for ACA subsidies but chose not to take them, I believe that can affect your ability to claim the self-employed health insurance deduction. Make sure to check out IRS Publication 535 which has all the details on business expenses including the health insurance deduction. The full rules are pretty complex but your situation sounds pretty straightforward - the deduction will be limited to her net earnings from the business.
This isn't quite right. The self-employed health insurance deduction isn't affected by whether you COULD qualify for subsidies but didn't take them. It's only affected if you DO receive premium tax credits (PTC). Then you can only deduct premiums you paid out of pocket.
Roger Romero
One thing to consider - if you're filing back taxes and expect refunds, double check if you had any stimulus payments during those years. For 2021 especially, if you didn't receive the third stimulus payment ($1,400 per person), you might be eligible to claim the Recovery Rebate Credit on your return. Also, if you had children and were eligible for the expanded Child Tax Credit in 2021, make sure that's accounted for. Those were partially sent as advance payments, but you might be eligible for the remainder. Those two things alone could significantly increase your refund for 2021!
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Jasmine Hancock
β’Oh wow, I completely forgot about the stimulus payment situation! I did receive the stimulus payments but definitely need to make sure I account for them properly. I don't have kids so the Child Tax Credit doesn't apply to me, but this is super helpful info for anyone else reading this thread. Do you know if the tax software will walk me through these special credits for past years? Or do I need to specifically look for them?
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Roger Romero
β’Most tax software for 2021 should definitely ask you about stimulus payments received. They'll typically ask if you received the full amount, a partial amount, or nothing, and then calculate the Recovery Rebate Credit accordingly. If you received the full amount, you won't get more, but it's important to enter it correctly to avoid processing delays. Even though you don't have children, also check if you qualify for the Earned Income Tax Credit for those years. The eligibility was expanded for 2021, and more people without children qualified than in typical years. The income limits were higher too.
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Anna Kerber
I just went through this whole process of filing 3 years of back taxes. My biggest piece of advice is to gather ALL your documents before starting. Make a checklist: - W-2s from all employers for each year - 1099s (interest, dividends, contractor work, etc) - Mortgage interest statements - Student loan interest - Health insurance forms - Any major life events (buying home, education, etc) Once you have everything organized by year, the software is actually pretty straightforward. I used TaxSlayer for all my back years and while it was a bit pricey (about $40 per year including state), their interface was really easy to use for someone who was overwhelmed like I was.
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Niko Ramsey
β’Would you recommend doing all the years in the same software? I've heard some people say it's better to use the same company for all your back taxes so there's consistency, but others say to just use whatever is cheapest for each individual year.
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