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One thing nobody mentioned - if you're eligible for a Traditional IRA contribution for 2022, you could recharacterize the Roth contribution as Traditional instead of taking it out completely. That way you don't lose the tax-advantaged space. You'd still need Form 5329 and an amended return, but no 6% penalty if you recharacterize properly. Just a thought!
Is there a time limit on recharacterization though? I thought the deadline was the tax filing deadline plus extensions for the year of the contribution (so for 2022 contributions, it would have been Oct 2023 at the latest).
You're absolutely right about the recharacterization deadline. The deadline is the tax filing deadline including extensions for the year the contribution was made. For 2022 contributions, that would have been October 16, 2023 (if an extension was filed). Since that deadline has passed for 2022 contributions, recharacterization is no longer an option in this case. At this point, the only options are to remove the excess contribution (plus earnings) or apply it to a future year if eligible. This is why catching these issues early is so important - it provides more flexibility in how to correct them.
Wouldn't it be easier to just apply the excess contribution to 2023 if you're eligible to contribute to a Roth IRA in 2023? You'd still owe the 6% penalty for 2022, but it would stop there. That's what I did when I had an excess contribution a couple years ago.
Just want to add another perspective - I got a 1040-V after filing too, but in my case I DID owe money. My accountant explained that even though I e-filed, I still needed to mail in the payment using that voucher if I wasn't paying electronically. So don't automatically toss it without making sure you're actually getting a refund!
Does this mean I should keep all these tax forms forever? My file cabinet is already stuffed with old paperwork.
You don't need to keep the Form 1040-V itself permanently, but you should keep your actual tax returns and supporting documents for at least 3 years after filing. That's the general time period the IRS has to audit your return. For tax payments, keep proof (like canceled checks or electronic payment confirmations) for at least 7 years. If you're not sure whether you need a document, it's better to err on the side of keeping it rather than throwing it away and needing it later.
How long have you been waiting for your refund? I filed with TurboTax on Feb 3 and still haven't gotten mine. The "Where's My Refund" tool just says it's still processing. Driving me nuts!!!
Check if you claimed Earned Income Credit or Additional Child Tax Credit. Those automatically delay processing until at least Feb 15. Also, paper returns are taking 6-8 weeks minimum this year.
My parents were TurboTax users for 25+ years until my dad retired last year and they finally used an accountant. The difference was shocking! The accountant found almost $4k in missed deductions just on their rental properties alone. The biggest advantage seems to be that accountants know the "gray areas" and exactly how aggressive you can safely be with deductions. They also know the latest tax law changes that might not make it into TurboTax immediately. Nothing against TurboTax, but there's a reason accountants still exist in the age of software! Might be worth at least getting a consultation to see what you're missing.
Wow $4k is a lot! Do you know what specific deductions they were missing? I'm now second-guessing myself about how thorough I've been with my rental property deductions.
The biggest miss was around home office deductions related to managing their rentals. They had never claimed any home office space despite doing all the management work from home. The accountant also found some vehicle expenses they hadn't claimed properly and reclassified some repairs they had made as capital improvements that could be depreciated differently. Another thing was timing of income and expenses between tax years. The accountant showed them how to legally shift some income and expenses between years to minimize their overall tax burden. It's all completely legitimate, just strategic in a way they hadn't considered with TurboTax.
I'm a CPA and I'll tell you something most tax pros won't: for many people with relatively simple situations (even with a rental), TurboTax is absolutely fine. The software has improved tremendously over the years. Where professionals add value: 1) Complex situations (multiple properties, businesses, unusual investments) 2) Audit protection and representation 3) Year-round tax planning, not just filing 4) Identifying industry-specific deductions you might not know about If you've been comfortable with TurboTax for 20 years and understand your situation well, you're probably not missing much. Maybe consider a one-time consultation with a tax pro just to verify, but don't feel pressured to change what's working for you.
Just to add a bit more detail on the capital loss carryover since I went through this last year. The $3,000 limit ($1,500 if married filing separately) only applies to the amount of loss you can use to offset ordinary income in the current year. You first use capital losses to offset any capital gains. Then, if you still have net losses, you can use up to $3,000 to reduce your other income. Any remaining losses get carried forward indefinitely. For example, if you have $4,200 in capital losses and no capital gains: - Use $3,000 against ordinary income this year - Carry forward $1,200 to next year Next year, you'd first apply that $1,200 against any capital gains. If you don't have any gains, you can use it against ordinary income (up to $3,000 total including any new losses).
If I have the carried over loss from last year AND new losses this year, do I have to use the old losses first? Or can I choose which losses to apply? I'm trying to maximize my deduction over multiple years.
You don't get to choose - the IRS rules require you to use carryover losses first before applying new losses. The process works in this specific order: First, apply your carryover losses against any capital gains you have in the current year. If you still have carryover losses remaining and no more gains to offset, then you can use up to $3,000 of those carryover losses against ordinary income. Only if you've used up all your carryover losses and still haven't hit the $3,000 limit would you then start applying your new losses from the current year. For example, if you carried over $1,200 from last year and have $2,500 in new losses this year with no gains, you would use the $1,200 carryover first, then $1,800 of your new losses to reach the $3,000 limit. The remaining $700 of new losses would carry forward to next year.
Has anyone dealt with wash sales when reporting losses? I sold some stocks at a loss but then bought similar ones within 30 days by accident. The 1099-B shows some adjustments and I'm confused about how to report this on Form 8949.
Wash sales complicate things but your 1099-B should have the adjusted basis already calculated. You'll need to check Box B on Form 8949 (if basis was reported to IRS) and then enter the information exactly as shown on your 1099-B. The loss that was disallowed due to the wash sale is already factored into the adjusted basis amount. When using tax software, make sure you indicate that this transaction involved a wash sale if it asks. Most modern brokerages track this for you now, but it's good to double-check the amounts match what's on your 1099-B.
Thanks for explaining! That helps a lot. I was overthinking it - so I just need to copy what's on the 1099-B and the wash sale adjustment is already built into those numbers. My broker did mark it as a wash sale so I'll make sure to check that box in my tax software.
TillyCombatwarrior
One thing nobody's mentioned yet is that 401k loans typically have origination fees and maintenance fees. Mine charges a $100 setup fee plus $50 annual maintenance for as long as you have the loan. Also, the interest rate may be fixed at prime + 1% or similar, which isn't necessarily a great deal in today's market with high-yield savings accounts paying 4%+.
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Anna Xian
ā¢And don't forget the opportunity cost! I took a 401k loan in 2020 right before the market took off. Missed out on like 30% gains because that money wasn't invested. The "interest" I paid myself was nothing compared to what I would have earned leaving it alone. Still kicking myself over that one.
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TillyCombatwarrior
ā¢That's an excellent point about the timing risk. No one can predict market movements, but removing a chunk of money means you could miss out on significant growth during bull markets. Many financial advisors recommend considering other sources of funds before tapping retirement accounts for exactly this reason. Once you miss a growth period in the market, there's no way to go back and capture those gains later.
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Jungleboo Soletrain
Has anyone dealt with the psychological aspect of seeing your 401k balance drop after taking a loan? I borrowed $20k last year and even though I know it's just a loan that I'm repaying, seeing my retirement account suddenly drop by that amount was more stressful than I expected. Made me second-guess my decision even though the math made sense for my situation.
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Rajan Walker
ā¢I had the opposite experience! Taking a 401k loan to pay off high-interest credit card debt actually reduced my stress significantly. Yes, my 401k balance was lower, but seeing those credit cards at zero balance was worth it. And knowing I was paying the interest to myself instead of Visa made each payment feel like I was moving forward, not just treading water.
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