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I just went through this process with a delayed refund. Here's what I learned: ⢠Interest starts accruing after 45 days from filing deadline or when you filed (whichever is later) ⢠For Q1 2024, interest rate is 7% (changes quarterly) ⢠Interest is calculated daily, compounded quarterly ⢠Interest IS taxable income in the year you receive it ⢠The IRS will send Form 1099-INT if interest is $10+ ⢠If you owe the IRS, underpayment interest rate is also 7% currently ⢠Failure-to-pay penalty is 0.5% per month (separate from interest
Isn't it interesting how they charge us penalties AND interest when we're late, but only pay interest (no bonus) when they're late? Guess that's the power of being the tax authority, right?
This is so helpful! I'm expecting a large refund that I filed for on February 1st, 2024. By my calculation, they should start paying interest around April 16th (45 days after the filing). At 7% on my $4,000 refund, that's about $0.76 per day. Not life-changing but definitely better than nothing!
Great breakdown everyone! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I filed early but there was an error on my return that delayed processing. One thing I learned from calling the IRS is that if THEY make an error during processing (not your fault), the 45-day clock starts from when they should have issued your refund, not when they actually fix their mistake. So if anyone is in a similar boat, it might be worth calling to clarify the timeline. The interest calculation can get pretty complex when there are processing delays on their end vs. issues with your original filing.
That's a really important distinction you've pointed out! I hadn't realized that processing errors on the IRS's side could affect when the interest clock starts ticking. This makes me wonder - how do you actually prove that it was their error versus something on your return that caused the delay? Do they note this somewhere in their system, or do you need to document it yourself when you call? I'm asking because I filed in January and it's been radio silence since then, so I'm trying to figure out if I should be expecting interest or if there might have been something wrong with my filing.
I did exactly what you're considering - started a business and included my brother for tax advantages. We went with the multi-member LLC but soon regretted it because: 1) Had to file partnership returns which were way more complicated than I expected 2) Splitting profits fairly became an issue when he wasn't doing equal work 3) Couldn't make business decisions quickly because we needed mutual agreement We ended up dissolving that and forming separate single-member LLCs instead. Now I hire his LLC for specific services when needed. Much cleaner arrangement. Whatever you decide, seriously consider the practical business relationship aspects, not just the tax benefits!
Great question about business structures! As someone who's helped family members navigate this exact situation, I'd suggest starting simple and evolving as your business grows. For your immediate needs, a multi-member LLC is probably your best bet. It allows both you and your dad to share in business deductions proportional to ownership percentage, and the tax filing (Form 1065 + K-1s) isn't too overwhelming for a small business. Just make sure you have a solid operating agreement that clearly defines roles, responsibilities, and profit/loss sharing. The key thing the IRS looks for in family businesses is that the arrangement serves a legitimate business purpose beyond just tax savings. If your dad brings capital, expertise, connections, or other valuable contributions, then his ownership stake is justified even if he works fewer hours than you. I'd avoid the two-LLC structure initially - it creates unnecessary complexity and paperwork. You can always restructure later as the business grows. And don't worry about S-Corp election until you're consistently profitable - the additional administrative burden usually isn't worth it for smaller operations. One practical tip: document everything from day one. Keep records of each member's contributions, time spent, and business decisions. This protects you if the IRS ever questions the legitimacy of your family business arrangement.
One option nobody's mentioned is becoming an Associate Preparer with a larger established tax office. Places like H&R Block, Liberty Tax, or even local accounting firms sometimes hire seasonal preparers. They handle the software, EFIN, and often training too. You get experience without the upfront costs, and can branch out on your own next season with that experience under your belt. I did this for two seasons before starting my own practice, and the training and mentor-ship was invaluable. Plus they dealt with all the software headaches and customer acquisition.
That's actually a really interesting suggestion! Do you know if these places typically hire people without formal accounting backgrounds? And would I still need my own PTIN if I worked under them?
Many of these places absolutely hire people without accounting backgrounds - they look for people who are detail-oriented and good with customers, then provide their own training. H&R Block for example has their own tax course that runs for about 8-12 weeks before tax season starts. Yes, you would still need your own PTIN even when working under their EFIN. Every person who prepares returns for compensation needs their own PTIN - it's tied to you individually, not the business. It's a good stepping stone because you get valuable experience while using their resources, then can take that knowledge when you branch out on your own.
Don't forget about the Annual Filing Season Program (AFSP) if you don't have a professional credential like an EA or CPA. It's voluntary but gives you limited representation rights before the IRS and gets you listed in the IRS directory of preparers, which can help establish credibility with clients. You need to take continuing education courses and agree to abide by specific ethical requirements.
The AFSP is great advice. I completed it my first year and it definitely helped clients trust me more. How many hours of continuing education is required again? I remember it being reasonable but can't recall the exact number.
Dumb question maybe but what happens at the end of the year with wash sales? If I have disallowed losses from December, do they just disappear?
This is actually a really important question! Wash sales that happen at year-end need special attention. If you sell at a loss in December and then buy back in January (within 30 days), that creates a wash sale that spans tax years. The loss doesn't disappear, but it gets added to the cost basis of your new shares purchased in January - which means you can't claim the loss on this year's taxes. You won't realize that benefit until you eventually sell those January shares (potentially next tax year or beyond). This is why some traders do "year-end tax planning" and avoid rebuying securities they've sold at a loss in December until after the 30-day window has passed.
Great explanation from everyone here! As someone who got burned by wash sales in my first year of active trading, I want to emphasize how important it is to track these across ALL your accounts. I had Fidelity, E*TRADE, and a small Robinhood account, and each platform only reported wash sales within their own system. What really helped me was setting up a simple spreadsheet to track any stock I sold at a loss, with a 30-day "no buy" reminder. Sounds tedious but it saved me from creating unnecessary wash sales, especially during volatile periods when I wanted to jump back into positions quickly. Also worth noting - if you have a spouse who trades, their transactions count toward YOUR wash sale calculations too! Found that out the hard way when my wife bought Tesla shares two weeks after I sold mine at a loss. The IRS considers all accounts under the same tax filing, so coordinate with your partner if applicable. For anyone doing tax-loss harvesting near year-end, be extra careful about the calendar. That 30-day window can easily cross into the new tax year and mess up your planning.
Cynthia Love
I use PayPal for my Spanish contractors and it's worked great. They handle the currency conversion and the contractors seem to prefer it. Anyone else use a specific payment method they recommend for international contractors?
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Darren Brooks
ā¢I've found Wise (formerly TransferWise) to be much cheaper than PayPal for international payments. PayPal's exchange rates and fees can really add up. Wise gives you the actual exchange rate and just charges a small transparent fee. My European contractors definitely prefer it.
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Cynthia Love
ā¢Thanks for the suggestion! I'll check out Wise. You're right that PayPal fees do add up over time, especially with regular payments. Do you know if using these payment platforms changes any of the tax documentation requirements we're discussing?
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GalacticGuardian
The payment method you choose (PayPal, Wise, bank transfer, etc.) doesn't change the W-8BEN requirements or any other tax documentation needs. You still need the properly completed W-8BEN form regardless of how you send the money. However, keep good records of all payments regardless of the method. For your business records, you'll want to track the USD amount of each payment (even if sent in euros), the date, and what services were provided. Most payment platforms provide detailed transaction records that make this easier. One thing to note - some contractors prefer to be paid in their local currency to avoid exchange rate fluctuations on their end, while others are fine with USD. It's worth discussing with your Spanish contractor what works best for them.
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Keisha Taylor
ā¢This is really helpful! I'm also new to working with international contractors and wondering - do you need to convert the payment amounts to USD for your business records even if you pay in euros? And should I be documenting the exchange rate used for each payment? I want to make sure I'm keeping proper records from the start.
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