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Luca Bianchi

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Def a good sign! That status change from "still processing" to "being processed" is huge tbh. After ID verify, the system usually takes 7-14 days to fully update. The as-of date jump means your return is actively being worked. Most ppl see their refund within 2 wks of that change. Just keep an eye on your transcript for the 846 code - that's your DDD (direct deposit date). You're in the home stretch now!

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That's definitely encouraging progress! I went through something similar about 6 weeks ago. My as-of date jumped forward by about 2 months, and the status change happened within 24 hours. What really helped me track things was checking my account transcript daily around 6 AM - that's when the IRS typically updates their system overnight. The jump from February to April might seem dramatic, but it's actually pretty normal when they're catching up after identity verification. In my case, I saw the 846 refund code appear exactly 8 days after the status changed to "being processed." The waiting is definitely the worst part, but you're clearly moving through their system now rather than being stuck in limbo!

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Thanks for sharing your timeline! That 6 AM check tip is really helpful - I had no idea that's when they typically update the system. Eight days from status change to the 846 code appearing gives me a realistic expectation to work with. You're right about being stuck in limbo vs. actually moving through their system - that's exactly how this feels now. I'll definitely start checking my transcript in the early morning rather than randomly throughout the day. Did you notice any other codes appear before the 846, or did it just show up all at once?

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Dylan Baskin

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Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences! This is really helpful. I completed my phone verification yesterday, so I'm crossing my fingers it falls into that 2-4 week range most of you experienced rather than the full 9 weeks. @Diego Ramirez - I'll definitely keep an eye on my transcript for those codes you mentioned. I haven't seen any updates yet since verification was just completed, but I'll watch for the 571 code as a good sign things are moving. @Ethan Davis - You make a good point about planning for the worst-case scenario. I think I'll budget as if it won't come for 9 weeks, but keep checking my transcript weekly to see if there's movement. Better to be prepared than disappointed if it takes longer than expected. Does anyone know if there's a typical day of the week when refunds usually get deposited after verification? I've heard some people say Wednesdays or Fridays are common, but not sure if that's just coincidence.

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Welcome to the waiting game! I just went through this exact process myself about 6 months ago. From what I've observed, refunds typically hit accounts on Wednesdays and Fridays - it's not just coincidence. The IRS processes their ACH batches on those days. Since you did phone verification yesterday, you're in the fastest processing track. I'd expect to see transcript updates within 7-10 days, then your refund 1-2 weeks after that. Keep checking your transcript on Fridays since that's when most weekly updates seem to happen. One tip: when you see code 846 appear on your transcript, that date is usually 1-2 days before the money actually hits your account. So if you see 846 dated for a Wednesday, expect the deposit by Friday. Good luck!

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Amina Diallo

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@Dylan Baskin - You re'smart to plan for the worst case scenario! I actually went through ID verification about 3 weeks ago and got my refund yesterday, so 21 days total. Regarding deposit days, in my experience it s'usually Wednesday or Friday, but I ve'also seen Tuesday deposits. The key thing to watch for is when your transcript updates with the 846 code - that gives you the actual date. One thing I learned is that once you complete phone verification, the IRS usually updates your account transcript within 5-7 business days to show the verification is complete. After that, it typically takes another 10-14 days for the refund to process. So you re'probably looking at 3-4 weeks total if everything goes smoothly. Keep checking your transcript on Fridays like @Zachary Hughes mentioned - that s when'I saw most of my updates too!

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Ravi Sharma

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I'm going through this exact situation right now too! Filed January 22nd, completed phone verification two days ago after getting the dreaded "still processing" message. The 9-week timeline they gave me had me panicking since I was counting on that refund for some upcoming expenses. Reading everyone's experiences here is so reassuring - it sounds like most people are getting their refunds in the 3-4 week range after verification, not the full 9 weeks. I'm definitely going to start checking my transcript on Fridays like several people suggested, and I'll watch for those specific codes @Diego Ramirez mentioned. Has anyone noticed if the time of year affects processing speed? I'm wondering if doing verification in March (like now) is faster or slower than earlier in the filing season when they're probably swamped with returns.

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You mentioned buying your first home - don't forget there are first-time homebuyer benefits that might help with your overall financial situation even if they don't directly relate to the car sale. Depending on your state, there might be assistance programs. Also, make sure you're tracking all your closing costs - some of them might be tax deductible next year!

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This is so true! I got a $10,000 grant from my state's first-time homebuyer program last year that I didn't have to repay. Definitely worth looking into what's available in your area. What state are you in?

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Great question! As others have mentioned, you're likely in the clear tax-wise since personal vehicles almost always depreciate. Just to be thorough though, make sure you keep documentation of what you originally paid for the Camry (purchase receipt, financing documents, etc.) and what you sell it for. One thing I'd add - if you've made any significant improvements to the car over the years (major repairs, new engine, etc.), keep those receipts too as they can be added to your "cost basis" if needed. But honestly, with a 6-year-old Camry selling for $11,500, you're almost certainly selling at a loss from what you paid originally. Good luck with the home purchase! Using your car sale proceeds for a down payment is a smart move - just make sure your lender knows where that money is coming from so there are no surprises during underwriting.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to all this tax stuff and home buying, so I appreciate the clarification about keeping documentation. Quick question - when you mention "cost basis" and adding improvements, does that include things like new tires, brake pads, or other regular maintenance items? Or are we talking about bigger things like engine work? I want to make sure I'm not missing anything that could help if I did somehow end up with a gain.

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Clarification Needed: Do Stock Dividends Count as Net Investment Income for Form 4952 Interest Deduction?

I'm trying to understand Form 4952 and how it applies to my situation. The form says: * 4a: Gross income from property held for investment * 4b: Qualified dividends included on line 4a I'm confused by this wording... does this mean investment income from stocks isn't deductible, and only real estate is? Or am I misinterpreting something? Here's my situation - I'm planning to purchase a $2.7m primary residence soon. I could buy it outright with cash, but I'm considering taking out a significant mortgage and investing that money in the market instead, since I believe it will appreciate faster than my interest rate. From what I understand, if I take out a mortgage during the initial purchase, I can deduct interest on up to $750k of the principal, which means about $50,000 in deductions against my total income. But I've read some articles suggesting that regardless of how a loan is secured, if I invest the money in taxable securities that can be clearly traced, I might be able to deduct interest payments against my net investment income (NII). So theoretically, if I bought the house with cash, then did delayed financing for 80% ($2,160,000), I could potentially deduct up to $108,000 in interest. The key question becomes whether I have more than $50,000 of net investment income to make this strategy worthwhile. What's confusing me is that while other sources mention stock dividends and capital gains as part of NII, the wording on Form 4952 is making me second-guess whether stock dividends actually count. Any clarification would be super helpful!

Zainab Ahmed

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Has anyone successfully done what the OP is suggesting with delayed financing? I'm considering a similar strategy but worried about IRS scrutiny. How detailed does the "clear tracing" of funds need to be?

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I did something similar last year. The key is maintaining a clear paper trail. I took out a HELOC on my paid-off home, deposited the funds in a separate account, then used that account exclusively to purchase stocks and ETFs. I kept all statements showing the flow of money. My tax advisor said this creates a clear trace for the IRS. What you CANNOT do is commingle the funds with your regular checking account or use any portion for personal expenses. That breaks the tracing rule and can disqualify the interest deduction.

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Grace Durand

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This is a great discussion thread! I've been dealing with a similar situation and want to add a few practical points from my experience with Form 4952. First, regarding your $2.7M house strategy - you're absolutely correct that stock dividends count as investment income for Form 4952 purposes. I've successfully used this approach with my own investment portfolio. One thing I learned the hard way: timing is crucial for the delayed financing approach. The IRS has specific rules about when borrowed funds are considered "used for investment." You generally have 30 days from receiving the loan proceeds to invest them, and another 30 days to allocate the interest expense properly on your books. Also, keep meticulous records! I created a dedicated investment account solely for the borrowed funds and documented every transaction. This made my tax preparation much smoother and gave me confidence if the IRS ever questions the deduction. For your situation with potentially $108k in deductible interest, make sure you have sufficient net investment income to absorb it all. Any excess investment interest expense carries forward to future years, which is helpful but means you don't get the immediate tax benefit. One last tip: consider consulting with a tax professional before implementing this strategy, especially given the dollar amounts involved. The savings can be substantial, but the documentation requirements are strict.

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Hazel Garcia

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This is incredibly helpful, thank you! The 30-day timing rule is something I hadn't seen mentioned elsewhere. Can you clarify - is that 30 days from when you receive the loan funds to invest them, AND another separate 30 days to properly allocate the interest expense? Also, when you say "allocate the interest expense properly on your books," what exactly does that mean in practical terms? Do you need to maintain separate accounting records, or is it sufficient to just track which portion of your total interest payments relates to the investment loan? I'm definitely planning to work with a tax professional on this, but want to understand the mechanics better before that consultation. The potential tax savings make it worth getting all the details right!

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Great question! Let me clarify those timing rules based on my experience and what my CPA explained to me. Yes, there are essentially two separate 30-day periods to be aware of: 1. **Investment of borrowed funds**: You have 30 days from receiving loan proceeds to actually invest them in qualifying securities. This creates the clearest "tracing" for IRS purposes. 2. **Interest allocation**: You have 30 days from when you invest the funds to properly allocate/classify the interest expense in your records as "investment interest expense" rather than personal interest. For "allocating the interest expense properly," you don't need complex accounting software, but you do need clear documentation. Here's what I did: - Kept a simple spreadsheet showing the loan balance, monthly interest payments, and what portion relates to investments - Made sure my loan statements clearly showed the investment-related debt separate from any personal use - Documented the investment purchases with dates and amounts matching the loan proceeds The key is being able to show the IRS a clear line from "borrowed money → invested in securities → interest expense relates to those investments." If you commingle funds or use any portion for personal expenses, that breaks the chain and can disqualify the entire deduction. Definitely smart to work with a tax professional - they can help you set up the proper documentation from day one rather than trying to recreate it later!

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Has anyone used the "mark-to-market" election as a trader? I heard its better for taxes but I dont really understand it.

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Nia Johnson

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Mark-to-market can be beneficial but comes with specific requirements. It lets you treat all trading gains/losses as ordinary income (avoiding the wash sale rules), and you can deduct all trading expenses. However, you must qualify as a "trader" in the eyes of the IRS (frequent, regular, continuous trading), make the election by the due date of your previous year's return, and once elected, you can't easily go back. It's best discussed with a tax professional who specializes in trader taxes before making this decision.

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As someone who's been through this exact situation, I'd recommend a hybrid approach. I set aside money monthly based on my running P/L rather than after each individual trade - this smooths out the ups and downs and is much more manageable with 270+ trades. Here's what I do: At the end of each month, I calculate my net trading profit for that month and set aside 30-35% (accounting for both federal and state taxes plus the additional Medicare tax on high earners). I keep this in a separate high-yield savings account so it's earning something while waiting for tax time. The key thing with day trading is that virtually all your gains will be short-term capital gains taxed as ordinary income. Since you have W-2 income too, your trading profits stack on top, so you definitely want to be conservative with your set-aside percentage. Also, start making quarterly estimated payments once your trading profits hit around $1,000 for the quarter. The IRS gets cranky if you don't pay as you go, and the underpayment penalties aren't worth it. I learned that the hard way my first profitable year!

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Margot Quinn

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This is really solid advice! I like the monthly approach - trying to set aside money after every single profitable trade sounds exhausting with that many trades. Quick question though: when you say "high-yield savings account," are you worried about the interest being taxable income on top of your trading gains? I'm wondering if it's better to just keep the tax money in a regular checking account to avoid any additional tax complications.

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