IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls โ€“ which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Hannah Flores

โ€ข

Has anyone successfully gotten this fixed going forward without getting HR involved? My company's HR is outsourced and practically impossible to reach.

0 coins

Kayla Jacobson

โ€ข

In my experience, you absolutely need HR involved to fix withholding going forward. They control the payroll system settings for where your taxes go. Maybe try reaching your finance department instead? They sometimes have more direct control over payroll than outsourced HR. Or try to find whoever handles your company's payroll processing directly.

0 coins

Amara Okafor

โ€ข

I went through this exact same issue about 6 months ago! What worked for me was being very persistent with documentation. I created a folder with: 1. Screenshots of all my paystubs showing the incorrect local tax withholding 2. My lease agreement proving my home address 3. Photos of my home office setup with timestamps 4. A letter from my manager confirming I'm 100% remote The key was making it crystal clear that this wasn't just a temporary work-from-home situation - I was hired as a remote employee and have never worked from their office location. When I presented all this to HR, they couldn't really argue with the documentation. They fixed my withholding within two pay periods. For the back taxes, I had to file a non-resident return with the city that had been collecting my taxes incorrectly, but I got about $1,400 back within 8 weeks. Pro tip: If your HR pushes back, ask them to show you the specific tax law or company policy that requires withholding taxes for a location where you don't physically work. Most of the time they can't produce anything because there isn't a valid legal basis for it.

0 coins

Malik Davis

โ€ข

This is such great advice about documentation! I'm dealing with this exact situation right now and hadn't thought about taking photos of my home office setup with timestamps - that's really smart evidence that I'm actually working from home. My HR keeps saying they need "proof" but weren't specific about what kind of proof they wanted. Your list gives me a clear roadmap for what to gather. Did you have any issues with the non-resident return process? I'm a bit nervous about filing tax forms I've never dealt with before.

0 coins

CosmicCaptain

โ€ข

Have you considered setting up an S-Corporation instead of a sole proprietorship? I switched to an S-Corp for my collectibles business once I was clearing about $40K in profit annually and it saved me a bundle on self-employment taxes. The basic approach is that you pay yourself a reasonable salary (which is subject to SE tax) and then take the rest as distributions (which aren't). There are additional compliance requirements and costs, but it might be worth exploring if your operation gets big enough.

0 coins

Zainab Ismail

โ€ข

That's an interesting approach I hadn't considered. What would you consider a "reasonable salary" in the collectibles space? And did you need any special valuation methods for your inventory when you made the switch?

0 coins

CosmicCaptain

โ€ข

A reasonable salary would be whatever similar businesses would pay someone to do your job - for collectibles, that might be similar to what card shop managers make in your area. I used data from the Bureau of Labor Statistics for retail managers as my baseline, adjusted for the fact that I work part-time hours. For inventory valuation, I used purchase price as my basis. The tricky part was separating my personal collection from business inventory. I had my accountant help document which items were purchased with investor intent before the business formation versus what I acquired as inventory. We created a detailed spreadsheet with purchase dates, prices, and the intended disposition (personal investment vs. business inventory). The S-Corp arrangement has saved me thousands in self-employment taxes, but don't attempt it without professional guidance - the compliance requirements are significant.

0 coins

Jamal Edwards

โ€ข

This is a really comprehensive discussion that's helping me understand the complexity of collectibles taxation better. One thing I'm still unclear on is the timing of when you transition from investor to dealer status. If I follow my original plan of acquiring for 3-4 years without selling, then start a business and begin regular sales, does the IRS evaluate each transaction individually or do they look at your overall pattern of activity across multiple years? For example, if I sell a card I bought in year 1 (clearly investment intent) but sell it in year 5 when I'm operating as a business, is that specific transaction still eligible for capital gains treatment, or does my business status at the time of sale override the original investment intent? I'm trying to understand if there's a clean way to maintain two separate buckets - my original investment collection versus new business inventory - or if starting business operations potentially taints everything retroactively.

0 coins

Carmen Vega

โ€ข

Great question! From what I understand, the IRS typically evaluates each transaction based on the circumstances at the time of acquisition and your intent when you bought the item, not necessarily your status when you sell it. If you can clearly document that certain cards were purchased with investment intent during your "collector phase" (holding for appreciation, infrequent trading, etc.), those specific items should maintain their character as capital assets even if you later sell them through a business entity. The key is maintaining clear records that show the distinction between your original investment purchases and new business inventory. Many successful collectibles dealers I know maintain exactly this kind of "two bucket" approach - they have their personal investment collection that they acquired before going into business, and separate business inventory. The IRS respects this distinction as long as you can document it properly with purchase records, holding periods, and clear intent at the time of acquisition. That said, once you start operating as a dealer, you'll want to be extra careful about any new purchases to ensure they're clearly designated as either business inventory or personal investments, since your dealer status could create a presumption that new acquisitions are inventory unless proven otherwise.

0 coins

Tyrone Johnson

โ€ข

Great question! Yes, you absolutely need to maintain a mileage log even when your vehicle is primarily used for business. The IRS requires documentation to support any business vehicle deductions, regardless of the percentage of business use. However, your approach of tracking the rare personal trips could work! This is called the "adequate records" method where you document total annual mileage and subtract personal use. Just make sure you: 1) Record your odometer reading at the beginning and end of each year 2) Keep detailed records of every personal trip (date, destination, mileage, purpose) 3) Have supporting documentation for your business travel (client appointments, receipts, etc.) Since you're already meticulous with receipts and expenses, you're on the right track. Consider using a mileage tracking app like MileIQ or Everlance to make logging easier - they can automatically detect trips and you just categorize them as business or personal. One important note: once you choose between the standard mileage rate or actual expense method for a vehicle, you generally need to stick with that method for the life of the vehicle. Given that you're tracking all actual expenses already, make sure to calculate which method gives you the better deduction before deciding!

0 coins

Alana Willis

โ€ข

This is really helpful advice! I'm new to tracking business expenses myself and had the same confusion about mileage logs. Quick question - when you mention calculating which method gives better deductions, is there a general rule of thumb for when actual expenses beat the standard mileage rate? I drive an older car that needs frequent repairs, so I'm wondering if actual expenses might work better in my situation. Also, do you know if there are any good calculators online that can help compare the two methods before you commit to one? @Tyrone Johnson thanks for breaking this down so clearly - the adequate "records method" sounds much more manageable than logging every single business trip!

0 coins

Ethan Moore

โ€ข

@Alana Willis Great question about when actual expenses beat standard mileage! Generally, actual expenses work better when you have an expensive vehicle, high maintenance costs, or significant depreciation. For older cars with frequent repairs like yours, actual expenses often come out ahead. A few rules of thumb: if your actual costs per mile exceed the current standard rate 67ยข (for 2024 ,)actual expenses usually win. Also, luxury vehicles, trucks, or cars with expensive insurance tend to benefit more from actual expenses. For calculators, the IRS doesn t'provide one, but many tax software programs can run the comparison. You could also create a simple spreadsheet: track your actual expenses for a few months, divide by business miles driven, and compare that per-mile cost to the standard rate. Just remember - you need to decide by your tax return filing deadline for the first year you use the vehicle for business, and you re'generally locked into that method for the vehicle s'lifetime. So it s'worth doing the math carefully upfront! @Tyrone Johnson s advice'about the adequate records method is spot-on too - much more practical than logging every single trip when your car is mostly business use.

0 coins

Miguel Diaz

โ€ข

I'm dealing with a very similar situation! I run a freelance graphic design business and my car is probably 90% business use since I meet clients all over the region. I've been stressing about the mileage log requirement too. After reading through all these responses, I think I'm going to try the approach of tracking just my personal miles and using that to calculate my business percentage. It seems much more manageable than trying to log every single client visit. One question though - has anyone here actually been through an audit with this method? I'm curious how the IRS actually reviews these records in practice. The idea of having to justify every trip sounds terrifying, but if the documentation is solid it should be fine, right? Also, for those using apps like MileIQ - do you find it drains your phone battery significantly? I'm on the road a lot and battery life is always a concern.

0 coins

Marcus Marsh

โ€ข

@Miguel Diaz I haven t'been through an audit myself, but I can share what I ve'learned from tax professionals about this method. The key is having solid supporting documentation beyond just the mileage log - things like client contracts, appointment calendars, invoices, and receipts from business locations really strengthen your case. Regarding the IRS review process, they re'typically looking for patterns that make sense. If you claim 90% business use, they want to see that your personal trips align with that percentage and that your business travel is reasonable for your type of work. Having consistent, detailed records of those personal trips you do track is crucial. For the MileIQ battery concern - I ve'been using it for about 6 months and haven t'noticed significant battery drain, but I do keep a car charger just in case. The automatic trip detection is really convenient for someone like you who s'constantly traveling to different client locations. You might also want to look into apps like Everlance or TripLog as alternatives - some people find they work better with their specific phone models. The peace of mind from having proper documentation is definitely worth the small hassle of setting up a tracking system!

0 coins

Omar Zaki

โ€ข

Did you use one of those rewards apps or digital coupons? Sometimes the receipt shows the original price but the discount is applied after and the tax is calculated on the pre-discount amount. Makes it look like the tax percentage is higher than it actually is if you're calculating based on the final price.

0 coins

Chloe Taylor

โ€ข

This happened to me at CVS! The receipt showed a $5 discount from their ExtraCare program but the tax was calculated before the discount. Made it look like I was paying like 12% tax when it was actually the normal amount.

0 coins

I work in retail tax compliance and see this issue more often than you'd think. A 14% effective tax rate on a convenience store purchase in California is definitely wrong - even in the highest-tax jurisdictions like parts of LA County, you shouldn't see more than about 10.25% total. Here's what likely happened: Either their POS system has the wrong tax table programmed for your location, or there's a glitch where it's double-taxing certain items. Sometimes when stores update their systems or change locations within tax districts, the tax rates don't get updated properly. I'd recommend going back with your receipt and asking to speak with a manager. Most chain stores have corporate policies about fixing tax errors and will refund the difference once they verify the mistake. If they won't help, definitely file a complaint with the California Department of Tax and Fee Administration - they have an online form for reporting businesses that aren't collecting the correct tax amounts. Also keep that receipt! If this is a systematic error affecting multiple customers, you might be helping identify a bigger issue that needs to be corrected across multiple locations.

0 coins

Vera Visnjic

โ€ข

This is super helpful! I'm pretty new to understanding tax stuff and didn't realize stores could have their systems programmed wrong like that. Quick question - when you say "file a complaint with the California Department of Tax and Fee Administration," is that something they actually follow up on? Like, do they investigate individual stores or is it more of a general reporting thing? I'm wondering if it's worth the effort for a couple dollars or if I should just avoid that store in the future.

0 coins

Freya Thomsen

โ€ข

Has anyone had issues with the age verification part? My son turned 17 in December and the system is counting him as 17 for the whole tax year even though he was 16 for 99% of the year. Seems unfair that if your kid's birthday is January 2nd they count for the credit but December 31st they don't.

0 coins

Omar Fawaz

โ€ข

Unfortunately that's just how the tax law works. The IRS only cares about the age on December 31st of the tax year. My daughter turned 17 on December 28th and I lost the full $2,000 credit for her. But don't forget you can still claim the $500 Credit for Other Dependents!

0 coins

Another thing to check is whether you accidentally entered any of your children as "qualifying relatives" instead of "qualifying children" - this is a common mistake that can zero out your child tax credits. In most tax software, there's usually a section where you specify the relationship and dependency status. If a child is marked as a "qualifying relative" rather than a "qualifying child," they won't be eligible for the Child Tax Credit even if they meet all other requirements. Also, double-check that you didn't accidentally enter any of their birthdates as being in the wrong year. I've seen people accidentally enter 2008 instead of 2018 for a child's birth year, which would make the software think the kid is way older than they actually are. Given that you found the solution (the dependent checkbox issue), this might help others who run into similar problems but don't have that specific issue.

0 coins

Prev1...29472948294929502951...5643Next