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Ask the community...

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Dylan Evans

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One thing I learned the hard way as a pianist - make sure you clearly document which vehicle expenses go with which type of income! I got flagged for an audit because I deducted all my travel, but some was for my W-2 teaching position (not deductible) and some for my 1099 gigs (deductible). Keep a mileage log with dates, destinations, purpose, and which "job" it was for. There are apps that can help track this automatically. This distinction between W-2 and 1099 related expenses is super important and something many musicians miss.

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Sofia Gomez

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What mileage tracking app do you recommend? I've been trying to remember to write down my odometer readings but I always forget.

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As someone who's navigated the musician tax maze for years, I want to emphasize something that hasn't been mentioned yet - the importance of understanding the "exclusive use" test for your home studio deduction. Since you mentioned teaching private lessons from your home studio, you can absolutely deduct that space, but it must be used EXCLUSIVELY for business purposes. If your home studio doubles as a family room or storage area, the IRS won't allow the deduction. The space needs to be dedicated solely to your music business activities. For calculating the deduction, you can either use the simplified method ($5 per square foot up to 300 sq ft) or the actual expense method (percentage of home expenses based on square footage). Given your multiple income streams, I'd recommend the actual expense method since you can likely justify a larger deduction. Also, don't forget about the Section 199A deduction (QBI deduction) for your 1099 income! As musicians with Schedule C income, you may qualify for up to a 20% deduction on your qualified business income. This can be substantial savings that many musicians overlook. One last tip - consider whether any of your equipment purchases qualify for Section 179 depreciation, which allows you to deduct the full cost in the year of purchase rather than depreciating over several years. This applies to items like recording equipment, instruments, and computers used for your business.

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Mei Lin

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My tax guy told me that when you have a 1099-R with code J, you should also include a statement with your tax return explaining the situation. He said its not technically required but can help prevent questions from the IRS later. Has anyone else been advised to do this?

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NebulaNova

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While attaching an explanation isn't mandatory, it can certainly be helpful in some cases. The IRS matching program will see the 1099-R reported, and if everything is properly coded on your return (line 4a showing the distribution, line 4b showing $0, and Form 5329 filed for the excise tax), there shouldn't be any issues. That said, if you're concerned or if your situation has additional complexity, including a brief statement explaining the excess contribution removal can provide extra clarity. It's never a bad idea to provide more documentation when the situation is somewhat unusual.

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I went through this exact situation last year with a 1099-R code J for an excess Roth contribution removal. Everyone's advice here is spot on - you'll report the full amount on line 4a and $0 on line 4b since it's just returning your already-taxed contribution. The most important thing that some tax software misses is Form 5329. You absolutely need to file this form to report the 6% excise tax for both 2022 and 2023. TurboTax should prompt you for this when you indicate it was an excess contribution removal, but double-check that it's including Form 5329 in your filing package. Also, don't worry about box 2b being checked - that's completely normal for this type of distribution. The brokerage is basically saying "we're not making the taxability determination, that's between you and the IRS," which is standard practice for excess contribution removals. Keep all your documentation from Vanguard showing the removal request and confirmation, plus records of the excise tax payments. This will be helpful if there are any questions later.

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This is really helpful - thank you for confirming what everyone else has been saying! I'm feeling much more confident about how to handle this now. One quick follow-up question: when you filed Form 5329 for the excise tax, did you have to calculate the tax yourself or does TurboTax handle that calculation automatically once you input the excess contribution amounts? I want to make sure I'm not missing any steps in the calculation process.

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Hazel Garcia

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Has anyone here actually had their NOL challenged by the IRS? I'm worried about carrying forward my losses properly.

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Laila Fury

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I did have mine questioned during a correspondence audit last year. The key was having detailed documentation showing how I calculated the NOL. They specifically wanted proof that all expenses were legitimate business expenses. As long as you keep good records, you should be fine.

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Paolo Ricci

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This is such a common source of confusion! I went through the exact same thing last year with my construction business. The key thing to remember is that for tax purposes, NOL is calculated from your bottom-line taxable income - meaning AFTER all legitimate business deductions including mortgage interest. In your example, you're absolutely correct that you'd have a $1300 NOL in year 1, and you'd carry forward $1040 (80% of $1300) to offset year 2's income. So you'd only owe taxes on $60 in year 2. The confusion often comes from mixing up accounting terminology (operating income) with tax terminology (taxable income). For IRS purposes, it's always about your final taxable income after ALL deductions. One tip: make sure you're tracking your NOL carryforward amounts carefully each year. I use a simple spreadsheet that shows the original NOL, how much I've used each year, and what's remaining. The IRS loves documentation if they ever question it.

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This is really helpful advice about documentation! I'm new to dealing with NOLs and wasn't sure what records I should be keeping. Could you share more details about what you include in your NOL tracking spreadsheet? I want to make sure I'm documenting everything properly from the start to avoid any issues down the road.

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Honestly, podcasts have been my favorite way to learn! I listen to "Money Girl" and "Taxgirl" on my commute. They explain complicated tax concepts in everyday language and keep you updated on changes.

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Miguel Diaz

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Thanks for the podcast recs! Do they cover super basic stuff too or would they be over my head as a complete beginner?

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They absolutely cover the basics! "Money Girl" in particular has episodes specifically aimed at beginners with titles like "Taxes 101" and "Tax Basics Everyone Should Know." The hosts are really good at explaining concepts without assuming any prior knowledge. They start with fundamentals like what marginal tax brackets actually mean and how tax filing status affects your return. Perfect for building a foundation before diving into more complex topics.

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Zara Khan

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As someone who was completely overwhelmed by taxes when I started working, I found that combining multiple learning approaches worked best for me. Start with the IRS's free "Understanding Taxes" online modules - they're actually pretty well designed for beginners and cover the fundamentals without being too dry. What really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track different tax concepts as I learned them. For example, I'd note down what each box on my W-2 meant, common deductions I might qualify for, and how tax brackets actually work (spoiler: it's not as scary as it sounds!). Also, don't underestimate the value of going through last year's tax return line by line, even if someone else prepared it. Understanding what happened with your own taxes is often the best way to learn the practical side of things. You can use tax software to "practice file" your previous year's return and see how different scenarios would change your outcome. The key is starting simple and building up your knowledge gradually. You don't need to become a tax expert overnight!

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Something nobody's mentioned yet - if your new home purchase was after Dec 15, 2017, and your old one was before that date, there's actually different rules that apply to each! Mortgages from before that date can still use the old $1M limit rather than the new $750k limit. In your case, the first mortgage from 2017 would fall under the old rules, while the December 2025 mortgage would fall under the new rules. This means you might be able to deduct more than you think.

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Is this actually true? I thought the $750k limit applied to all mortgage debt regardless of when you took it out. My accountant never mentioned anything about different limits based on when I got my mortgage.

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It is absolutely true, though many tax preparers miss this nuance. The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017 lowered the limit from $1M to $750k for mortgage debt incurred after December 15, 2017. However, mortgages taken out before that date were grandfathered in under the old $1M limit. If you have mortgage debt from both before and after that cutoff date, you need to separately track and apply the appropriate limits to each. This is called the "mortgage interest limitation transition rule" and can make a significant difference for people in situations like the original poster's. Publication 936 from the IRS covers this in detail.

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Aria Khan

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Has anyone used TurboTax for this kind of situation? I'm having the same issue but can't figure out where to enter the acquisition dates for my mortgages so it calculates the limitation correctly.

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Aria Khan

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Thanks for the tip! I found that section and entered the dates, but it's still calculating as if both mortgages were in effect the entire year. Did you have to do anything special to get it to calculate the weighted average correctly?

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I had the same issue with TurboTax not calculating the weighted average properly. What worked for me was manually entering the mortgage balance for each month in the detailed mortgage section. It's tedious, but for your December purchase, you'd enter $0 balance for January-November and then the actual balance for December only. You might also need to override the automatic calculation if TurboTax is still getting it wrong. There's usually an option to manually enter the deductible amount if you can prove the software calculation is incorrect. Just make sure to keep documentation of your manual calculations in case of an audit.

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