I went through this exact same confusion last year! The key thing to understand is that "effectively connected with U.S. trade or business" has a very specific meaning - it's not just about having a bank account in the US while you're here temporarily. For your situation, Exception 1(a) is almost certainly the right choice. Since your bank gave you a letter stating the account is subject to IRS information reporting, and you're just keeping savings there (not running a business), this falls under passive income reporting. Exception 1(b) would only apply if you were actually operating a business in the US and the bank account was directly related to that business activity. Just being temporarily in the US with a savings account doesn't qualify. I'd recommend going with Exception 1(a) and including your bank's letter as supporting documentation. The IRS is pretty clear that any interest-bearing account subject to their reporting requirements qualifies under this exception, regardless of how much interest you're actually earning.

I just wanted to add my experience since I went through this exact same situation about 6 months ago. Like you, I was completely confused about which exception to choose, and I ended up making it more complicated than it needed to be. After reading through all the IRS instructions multiple times and calling my bank for clarification, I learned that the key question is really simple: Are you using this bank account for business purposes or personal savings? Since you mentioned you're just keeping savings there while temporarily in the US, Exception 1(a) is definitely the right choice. The "effectively connected with U.S. trade or business" language in Exception 1(b) is very specific - it means you're actually running a business or engaged in commercial activity in the US, not just maintaining a personal account. My bank's letter was similar to yours - it just stated that the account was subject to IRS information reporting. That's all you need for Exception 1(a). The IRS approved my application in about 8 weeks with no issues. One tip: Make sure to include a copy of your bank's letter with your W-7 application as supporting documentation. It directly supports your choice of Exception 1(a) and shows the IRS exactly why you need the ITIN. Good luck with your application! You're overthinking it - Exception 1(a) is the way to go for your situation.

I just want to point out that intentionally breaking up deposits to avoid reporting requirements (called "structuring") is actually illegal, even if the money is 100% legitimate. I've seen people mention this but want to emphasize it - depositing the full $4k at once is actually LESS suspicious than doing 4 separate $1k deposits.

I'm sorry for your loss. As others have mentioned, $4,000 is well below the $10,000 threshold for mandatory bank reporting to the IRS, so you should be fine depositing it all at once. One thing I'd add that might help ease your mind - keep a simple written record of what this money was for. Something like "Cash inheritance from Uncle [Name] - designated for funeral expenses, deposited [date] to pay credit card used for funeral costs." This isn't required for the bank, but it's good practice for your own records in case you ever need to reference it later. Also, while this cash won't trigger any IRS reporting, remember that inheritance itself generally isn't taxable income to you as the recipient - it's the estate that would handle any tax obligations. So even from a tax perspective, you're in the clear. Take care of yourself during this difficult time.

Before u switch make sure ur looking at the RIGHT prior year AGI. Its gotta be from the ACTUAL return u filed last year not what u put in turbotax this year

Check your 2023 tax return (the actual filed copy, not what's in TurboTax) for line 11 - that's your AGI from last year. The IRS is super picky about this matching exactly, down to the dollar. If you amended your 2023 return or there were any IRS adjustments after filing, you'd need to use the adjusted AGI amount instead. You can get your actual filed AGI from your tax transcript on the IRS website if you're not sure.

Has anyone tried just splitting the HSA contributions differently between spouses in OLT to get around this? Like instead of $4,250 and $900, maybe try entering it as $3,150 to the family HSA and $2,000 to the individual HSAs ($1,000 each)? OLT might be applying the catch-up contributions incorrectly when they're part of the family contribution, but might handle them correctly when entered as individual contributions.

I'm dealing with the exact same HSA calculation problem in OLT! My wife and I are both over 55 and had HDHP coverage for 8 months in 2024. OLT is completely ignoring our catch-up contributions and flagging legitimate contributions as excess. After reading through all these responses, I'm planning to try the redistribution approach first - entering our catch-up contributions as individual HSA contributions rather than family contributions to see if that tricks the software into calculating correctly. If that doesn't work, I'll definitely check out taxr.ai to get documentation of the correct calculation. It's frustrating that we have to work around these software bugs during tax season, but at least there seem to be several viable solutions here. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences!

This is such a helpful thread! I've been playing social casino games for about two years and had no idea about the tax implications. I probably made around $400 last year from various apps but never thought to report it since I didn't get any tax forms. Reading through all these responses, it sounds like I need to go back and figure out exactly how much I made and report it as "Other Income" on my return. One question though - for those apps where you can only cash out to gift cards (not actual cash), does that still count as taxable income? I have probably another $200-300 in various gift cards I've redeemed from gaming apps over the year. Also, if I bought coin packages but never cashed anything out from a particular game, I assume there's no income to report from that one, right? Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - this community is so much more helpful than trying to navigate the IRS website!

This is exactly the kind of situation I dealt with last year! I was playing multiple social casino apps and had small cashouts throughout the year that totaled around $650. What really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track everything - date, app name, amount cashed out, and method (PayPal, gift card, etc.). One thing I learned that might help others here: keep screenshots of your cashout confirmations if possible. Some of these apps don't keep great records on their end, and if you ever need to verify your reported income, having those screenshots can be really valuable. Also, don't forget to check smaller apps - I almost missed about $80 from a word game app that let me cash out to Amazon gift cards. For the loss deduction question, remember you can only deduct losses if you itemize, and only up to the amount of your winnings. So if you won $800 but spent $1,200 on coin packages, you can only deduct $800 in losses. Make sure the math actually works out in your favor before choosing to itemize instead of taking the standard deduction!