Hot tip if you're e-filing in Texas and have license issues: when I e-filed with H&R Block software, they had a clear option to skip the drivers license step completely. Just clicked "I don't have this information" and completed my filing with no problems. My return was accepted within 48 hours and refund came through in about 10 days. No issues whatsoever, and Texas definitely doesn't need state tax info since we don't have state income tax.

This question comes up every year! I'm a tax preparer in Texas and can confirm - use your expired license for e-filing federal returns. The number is what matters, not the expiration date. But honestly, best practice is to keep your license current anyway. You'll need a valid one for so many other things, and the renewals can often be done online now.

Why is everyone making this so complicated? Just fill out the damn form, it takes 5 mins. Put "Article XI - Interest" in section 10 of the W8-BEN (that's the part about the treaty benefits for interest income between US-Canada). Sign it, date it, send it back to your bank. Problem solved.

Just to add some clarity on the substantial presence test since it's been mentioned - you can actually file Form 8840 (Closer Connection Exception Statement) if you meet the substantial presence test but still maintain closer ties to Canada. This allows you to be treated as a Canadian resident for tax purposes even if you're physically present in the US for more than 183 days under the formula. You'd need to show that your tax home, family, personal belongings, social/political ties, etc. are still primarily in Canada. This form is due by June 15th of the year following the tax year in question. Also, regarding the W8-BEN, make sure you check the box in Part II claiming treaty benefits and specify "Canada" as the country. The form is valid for 3 years from the date you sign it, so you won't need to keep refiling it every year. One last tip - keep copies of everything you submit to your bank. If there are any issues later with withholding, you'll need documentation to show you properly claimed treaty benefits.

Just wanted to add something important that I learned the hard way - make sure to set aside some money for taxes throughout the summer, especially if you end up being classified as an independent contractor! When I worked as a camp counselor two years ago, I was so excited to get my paychecks that I spent everything right away. Then tax season came and I owed money because not enough was withheld (I was technically an employee but they didn't withhold much). It was a scramble to come up with the cash. My advice: put about 15-20% of each paycheck into a separate savings account just for taxes. If you end up getting a refund, great - you have extra money! If you owe, you're covered. This is especially important if you're getting tips too since those often aren't taxed upfront. Also, don't forget about FICA taxes (Social Security and Medicare) - these get taken out regardless of your income level if you're an employee, or you'll owe self-employment tax if you're a contractor. The math can get confusing but it's better to be prepared!

Great thread everyone! As someone who's helped a lot of young people with their first tax situations, I want to emphasize a few key points that can save you headaches: **The most important thing to do RIGHT NOW** is to ask your camp during orientation about your employment classification. Don't wait until you get your first paycheck to find out if you're an employee or contractor - this affects everything from how much tax is withheld to what forms you'll receive. **For your specific situation with $3,500 income**: You likely won't owe federal income tax, but you'll still owe FICA taxes (Social Security/Medicare) if you're an employee, or self-employment tax if you're a contractor. Many first-time workers get surprised by this. **Michigan specific tip**: Michigan requires filing if you had ANY state tax withheld, regardless of income amount. So even if your federal filing isn't required, you might still need to file state. **Documentation is everything**: Start a simple folder (physical or digital) right now for all your tax documents. Keep every paystub, any receipts for required work supplies, and notes about your employment classification. Future you will thank present you! The advice about setting aside 15-20% for taxes is spot on. Even if you think you won't owe anything, it's better to be prepared. And definitely keep track of any cash tips - they're taxable income even if nobody tells you that upfront. You're asking the right questions early, which puts you way ahead of most people! Don't stress too much - first-time filing is always intimidating but you've got this.

Has anyone successfully negotiated with their employer to reduce the Annual Lease Value used in these calculations? My company is using the maximum value in the IRS range for our vehicle class, and I think they could justifiably use a lower value.

This is exactly the kind of situation where having proper documentation becomes crucial. I went through something similar when I first got a company car and the deductions seemed way off. A few things to double-check beyond what others have mentioned: 1. Make sure your employer is using the correct "first made available" date for determining the fair market value. If you got the car 6 months ago, they should be using the FMV from when you first received it, not when the company originally purchased/leased it. 2. Verify that they're calculating your personal use percentage correctly. Some companies incorrectly include weekends and holidays when the car just sits in your driveway as "personal use days" rather than basing it purely on actual mileage. 3. Ask for a detailed breakdown of how they calculated both the ALV and your personal use percentage. You're entitled to understand exactly how they arrived at these numbers. The $10,250 ALV does seem high for a basic mid-size sedan unless it's a newer model with higher-end features. I'd definitely recommend looking up your specific vehicle on KBB or Edmunds to get the fair market value, then cross-reference that with the IRS ALV tables to see if they're in the right ballpark. Don't be afraid to push back if the numbers don't add up - most payroll departments will work with you if you can show them specific documentation that their calculations might be off.

Quick tip from someone who trades futures regularly: futures contracts are NOT reported on Form 8949! They're Section 1256 contracts that go on Form 6781. They get special 60/40 tax treatment (60% long-term capital gains, 40% short-term).

I went through this exact same confusion last year with my futures trading losses! Everyone here is absolutely right - futures are Section 1256 contracts that belong on Form 6781, not Form 8949. This is a huge distinction that can significantly impact your tax liability. The 60/40 treatment for Section 1256 contracts means 60% of your gains/losses are treated as long-term capital gains (taxed at lower rates) and 40% as short-term, regardless of how long you actually held the positions. This is usually much more favorable than regular securities trading. If TurboTax directed you to Form 8949, you likely entered your futures trading in the wrong section. Look for a section specifically for "Section 1256 contracts" or "mark-to-market" trading when you go back to review. Your 1099-B from futures trading should have different codes than regular stock trading - check if it shows code "A" or other Section 1256 indicators. You'll want to correct this before mailing anything to the IRS, as reporting futures on Form 8949 instead of Form 6781 could trigger unnecessary scrutiny or require amendments later.